10 X 1" Long Flat Head Screw - flat head screw head
How to replace a rear wheel bearing
However, if you continue driving your car, a failing water pump can lead to a failed water pump, which can result in overheating and complete engine damage. You don’t want that.
There are some stop-leak products out there that you pour directly into your radiator that can (possibly) seal or slow the leak. If you go this route, keep in mind these products are only a temporary fix and not a permanent solution.
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The answer is both yes and no. Meaning, it’s possible to drive a car with a bad water pump, but it’s really not a good idea. It also depends on the severity of the problem.
As a final point of note, for safe reassembly, technicians should only use only the recommended tightening torques recommended by the car manufacturers. In particular, it is known that applying excessive torque to the CVJ nut can lead to bearing damage (Image 6).
In short, if your water pump is leaking, we recommend taking it to a mechanic to have it replaced. Your engine will thank you.
Modern water pumps are pretty robust. They can take a lickin’ and keep on tickin’ for many years. But there’s still a chance they can fail.
Garage technicians can identify if a hub bearing has an encoder by using an NSK test card. The same test card can also be used to establish whether a fitted bearing has pole damage (if the result does not look like Image 2), which in turn can help technicians identify ABS signal problems.
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Typically, a bearing on the pump may go bad or the pump develops a leak. If so, this can cause serious damage to your car’s engine. Luckily, there are a few ways to know that your water pump may be failing:
When it comes to vehicle repairs, NSK sets out to make processes faster, safer and more reliable for garage technicians and mechanics. For this reason, those purchasing NSK ProKIT solutions receive 100% genuine wheel bearings alongside all of the supporting components needed to perform a fast and high-quality wheel bearing replacement. Hub bearings are not the simplest of parts to install, which is why NSK is providing some extra tips to help avoid common mistakes.
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The first tip is to compare the fitted bearing to the new one before mounting. Selecting the incorrect bearing is the most common mistake made by technicians. If the bearing is selected correctly, it can be re-checked quickly using the NSK online catalogue. Those requiring further help are invited to make direct contact with NSK.
A good tip is to avoid coming into contact or getting near the encoder with tools such as spanners and screwdrivers as they can change the N+S poles, again leading to issues with the ABS signal. With this thought in mind, only remove the bearing from its protective packaging immediately before fitting.
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The correct fitting of Hub I generation wheel bearings with magnetic encoders is especially challenging, which is why NSK has produced a video on this subject that shows every step of the process. NSK also offers special training that focuses on wheel bearings. Those interested are requested to make direct contact.
Another thing to keep in mind is that some water pumps are easier to get to than others. The more your engine needs to be taken apart to access the water pump, the higher the labor costs.
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For pressing, use a tool that only contacts the end face of the outer ring on Hub I generation bearings (Image 3). Never press on the encoder seal and never press on the inner ring as it will lead to bearing failure within a few kilometres of use. Once a suitable tool has been selected, keep the bearing aligned to the bore and press it vertically into the knuckle.
There are many general tips to keep in mind throughout the process, such as taking care of all suspension parts to avoid any unnecessary damage. Additionally, to ensure correct fitting of the bearing, it is especially important to control the hub and knuckle during assembly, while all surfaces which come into contact with the bearing should be cleaned beforehand (Images 4 and 5).
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In addition, there are two types of water pumps: belt-driven and electric. Typical belt-driven water pumps aren’t that expensive, but electric ones can get pricey, which will obviously drive up the cost. Your owner’s manual should be able to tell you which kind you have.
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Water pumps typically leak from two different places: the shaft seal or the water pump gasket. Either way, there’s something wrong, and your water pump needs to be replaced.
A water pump is a vital part of your car’s cooling system. Its main purpose is to continually circulate coolant from the radiator to the vehicle’s engine block to prevent overheating.
Encoders are only present on one side of Hub I generation wheel bearings – as identified by the test card – so it is vital to get the orientation correct when pressing into the knuckle. Before beginning this operation, always check that the encoder surface will be adjacent to the sensor after assembly.
Taking all of these points into consideration, you can expect to pay anywhere from $400 to $800. Of course, shopping around to get a few quotes is your best bet to get the best deal.
Now, let’s say you’re driving and your temperature gauge goes in the red, or you see smoke coming from your radiator. Can you still drive your car? Nope. Pull over immediately and turn off your car. You have a major problem and you don’t want to risk any further damage to your engine.
While not in widespread use (yet), electric water pumps are showing up more and more in newer vehicles. These pumps receive energy from the car’s electrical system rather than an engine-driven pulley system.
Typically, a water pump is belt-driven and gets its power from the engine’s crankshaft. Designed as a centrifuge, the water pump draws cooled fluid from the radiator in through the pump’s center inlet. It then circulates the fluid into the engine and back into the car’s cooling system.
For example, if you notice a small puddle of coolant on the ground or a strange sound coming from the engine, you can probably drive to your mechanic for a diagnosis.
Some hub bearings feature a magnetic encoder for the ABS signal, and thus demand even closer attention. The encoder seals contain many north (N) and south (S) poles which are read by the speed sensor (Image 1). If the N+S poles get damaged during installation it can lead to failure of the ABS system.