If you have an IR thermometer, compare the difference in temperature between the passenger side front wheel and the driver side front wheel after a 5-10 minute drive at highway speeds. If you don’t, very carefully touch the wheel with your finger near the lugnuts to compare - but be warned, it might hurt if what I think is wrong is actually wrong.

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You were all right, it was the calipers. In your experience, you knew it was the calipers. My reasoning led me to wheel bearings but I’m an amateur DIY’er.

What is the service life of a timing chain and how does having a chain drive cam benefit from a belt drive cam and vice-versa?

A cam and follower are a method of converting rotary motion into linear motion. The most well known application is in an internal combustion engine.

Belts are quieter but are often less obviously worn before they break (chains stretch and loosen, belts tend to stay tight without damaged belt teeth up until the moment they snap). Timing belts are also less complicated (chains require an oil bath). Chains are generally stronger, so vehicles with timing chains often drive more than just the cam with the timing chain. Due to stretch, when you change a chain you MUST replace all the timing gears, as the teeth will wear to match the chain stretch. While not necessary on a belt driven system, a failed gear will cause a belt failure and, depending on your engine, could be very bad, so it's generally recommended to replace all idlers and gears in a belt system, too.

I think we covered this before, but I can't find it... Timing chains have much greater service lives at the expense of slightly more noise and friction, as well as a lot more damage if they break (but odds of breakage are much less than a belt).

It seems to me that if a caliper is sticking and not fully releasing that a pull would be more likely when the brakes were not being applied. Braking would even out the braking and tend to eliminate or reduce a pull.

I hadn’t planned on gravity bleeding all 4 sides but I discovered that it had been leaking brake fluid from the last time I tried to diagnosis the problem. This was my first time bleeding brakes and I did it using the gravity method. It worked out better than I expected. It was fairly quick too, about 10 minutes per side of dripping. I think I replaced a lot more brake fluid than I needed to but I wasn’t concerned.

While driving on the highway, the steering wheel started wobbling, it seems more pronounced at higher speeds. So, I pulled over to take a look at the front wheels, maybe it’s a rock stuck in the treads (but usually stuck rocks make a clicking sound)----there are no rock pebbles. There is a burning smell, almost like burning rubber coming from the wheel well but the tires look fine, no signs of rubbing. I looked at the inner part of the tires to see if it’s rubbing against something, some suspension component perhaps: nope, looks all good. I reckon if there’s rubbing I would probably feel and hear it inside the car. The burning smell seems to be coming from the passenger front wheel well.

Since I’ve had a faulty tires that caused steering wheel wobbles before, I considered that it could be the tires, but these tires are nearly brand new… the tires don’t quite explain the other symptoms.

Apr 11, 2019 — When the bad bearing gets more weight on it, it'll make more noise, and when the weight is lifted, it'll make less. Another thing you can try ...

Does my car have a timing belt or timing chainnear

There's a good section on the TDI Club's FAQ about timing belts, as that's what Volkswagon uses on all their turbo diesels. A belt breaking on a TDI is catastrophic. As far as I know, most cars use chains and compression ratios low enough that there's no risk of piston heads smashing into an open valve should the chain break. You can't retrofit a belt system to use a chain, you wouldn't want to do the reverse, but I have seen people replace belts and chains with direct gear drives.

The burning smell would be hot brakes, which you should really only smell if you’re in the vicinity of a race track. On a street car it means the brakes are being overworked, in your case because the brakes are rubbing on the rotor while you’re driving.

The amount of damage caused by a belt breaking vs a chain breaking entirely depends on the type of engine. Engines with really high compression ratios (performance cars that require high-octane fuel, diesels, etc) tend to have the valves and piston heads move such that they could come into contact if the cam stops opening and closing the valves. When a piston head smashes into a valve, you ruin the head, valve, and potentially other cylinders if pieces of shattered valve travel through the air intake system to the other cylinders.

It might be a small pull…but maybe not. Depends on how sticky the caliper is but the symptoms you just posted scream “brake caliper dragging”

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They have been known to break but as Brian mentioned, that's very rare. I've also heard of a more common failure mode with chains where over time the metal stretches which alters the timing, so although everything runs, your car becomes de-tuned and to fix it, requires a chain replacement.

One other reason I suspect the wheel bearings is because: If I drive the car after it has been parked for a day, the symptoms don’t appear until after a some 10 minutes of driving…

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5250:250*100 = (5250*100):250 = 525000:250 = 2100. Now we have: 5250 is what percent of 250 = 2100. Question: 5250 is what percent of 250? Percentage solution ...

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concur w/the above ideas, more likely some kind of brake problem. My own diy’er experience w/bad wheel bearings is that heat or steering wheel wobbling aren’t the symptoms you first notice. What you notice first is a sound, a sort of growling sound, that gets louder the faster you go. It sounds sort of like when you drive over a road with a rough-textured surface. Often the wheel bearing sound gets worse when turning too, when turning in the other direction from the side the growling is coming from.

Lift 1 tire off ground with jack. Put on parking brake. Idle motor in drive and listen to right side, than left. If ur lucky only 1 wheel will rumble.

I may not be 100% accurate but I think belts have expected lift time of 60k-100k and at 100k they should definitely be changed.

Find the cross reference of differten oil seal factories/suppliers here! Oil Seals are produced in different factories.

Any time ever I’ve experienced a sticking caliper it was immediately or shortly following brake work (requiring retracting the caliper pistons). CSA

Sounds to me like you have a dragging brake caliper combined with an uneven rotor. If I’m right, then your impression is correct - something quite literally is “holding it back and letting it go.”

Timing belt or chain

In the end: The chain is a stronger, longer lasting product, that is harder to diagnose and harder to replace. When and if it breaks, it will break catastrophically without as much warning. The belt is more regularly replaced and is more telling when it is near its end of life. It is usually easier/faster to replace. Balance between Durability / Maintenance / Costs

I removed the calipers to reinstall and lube the guide pins, it was difficult to remove which is consistent with stuck calipers. Then I pumped the brake pedals to push the caliper piston out, and once out it was IMPOSSIBLE to push it back in even with a lot of effort and that caliper piston push-in tool.

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Thanks for the tip, I inspected the rotors with my fingers and it felt smooth just like the other side. I think the rotors and pads are fine. If not, well it’s another fun project.

I own a 2013 Volkswagen Golf TDI. Just recently, I drove a one year NEWER 2014, VW, with a 2.5, 5 cylinder Sportwagon. The 2.0 TDI, and the 2.5 Gas Engine, get the SAME Fuel mileage in town. Its the TDI that saves fuel on the freeway. Yes, the 2.5 Gas engine has the timing chain, and will last the lifetime of the car. The TDI is economical on the freeway, but its HIGHER cost in the beginning, @ purchase, and it's timing belt maintenance/replacement, is why I am going to trade my diesel in, for the gas engine with its timing chain, very soon.

Over the next couple of days, I observe that the car kind of “lurches” while creeping at very slow speeds. It also feels like there’s a kind of drag and release against the car… like something is holding it back and letting it go. It’s subtle but I can feel it at slow speeds.

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I replaced the calipers today, it took a full week to get the part from RockAuto–I ordered Raybesto’s “Opti-Cal” line, it’s a brand new part rather than remanufactured (I chose it because I’ve had good results with Raybestos Advanced Tech brake pads.)

Keep in mind that might be a sticking caliper or a failing brake hose at that corner. Internal failure can act like a check valve and not let the caliper release. It’s a 10 year old car, FWIW, I had the first brake hose failure on my truck at 7 years.

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Your steering wheel wobbling? That’s intermittent pulling to one side. By the time the high side of the rotor rolls around again, you’ve reacted to the steering wheel wobble and pulled the car back to straight. If you were only a little bit less competent a driver you’d have your diagnosis by now.

If one of them shudders, slows down, or grinds to a stop before the other, it likely has a bad bearing. To check individual wheel hub assemblies, you need to ...

Just took this off my new to me accord. Seller said ball joint was bad. I moved car 10 ft in his driveway and said wheel bearing is bad too.

I’m not recommended this, but if you decide to replace the rotors for some reason, be sure to clean them thoroughly with hot water/soap before installing. They are coated with an anti-rust chemical, and forgetting to clean it off is the source of quite a few problems reported here.

2024626 — I called every local mechanic close by me, they are charging no less than $650 (to replace one wheel bearing) with parts included and will not ...

However, there is one thing that prevents me from being absolutely certain and that is my reasoning that bad wheel bearings on one side that causes the car to lurch and drag would also cause it to pull to one side… this is not happening, it’s not pulling to one side…

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2014117 — If your car has 60,000+ miles on it and has already had its first timing belt replacement, as long as none of the seals are leaking and the ...