Another sign that your wheel bearing is going bad is wear on your tires. Often, tires can wear unevenly due to alignment issues, but in the case of a bad wheel bearing you’ll most often find that the wear on one tire is worse than the others. This is the bad wheel in the bunch. This uneven wear is noticeable, and will persist on the wheel with the bad bearing as you rotate your tires.

Inspection is an advantage with a timing belt; it’s usually just a couple of bolts and you’re looking right at it. One problem, and a challenge especially on a second-owner vehicle: If the mileage is over that of recommended timing-belt replacement and the owner doesn’t know if it was done, replacement is always recommended.

Timingbeltvs timingchain cost

A: A hub bearing is a pre-packed unit with both the hub and bearing together, often used in modern vehicles. In contrast, a ball bearing is a type of bearing that uses balls to maintain the separation between bearing races.

Timing chains and variable valve timing systems are dependent on clean, healthy lubrication and now they have it, but then again, does everyone change oil as often as they should?

If you were buying a new vehicle, what would you want the engine to have: a timing belt or a timing chain? You may have an opinion, you may not. Either way, let’s compare the two; then you can decide. Related Articles - Yokohama Tire Becomes a Lifetime UAF Trustee - SKF Offers Free Online Training in North America - NAPA Partners With UAF to Offer $50K in Scholarships The Chain Gang For many years, timing chains were the go-to for engine design. Generally speaking, they were dependable and didn’t require any specific maintenance. They were lubricated by the engine oil, so if you changed it on a regular basis, the timing chain would hold up well. Or would they? A lot of people still say, “They don’t build them like they used to.”  This is true, and coming from someone who is an old-car enthusiast, I’ll defend a level of workmanship that we don’t see in today’s vehicle. But the statement, while true, doesn’t always mean they built them better. In the case of timing chains, they sometimes wore quicker than a lot of people realized. What happened when they did? On an old car, nothing right away. At least nothing of which the owner was aware. A timing chain, just like a belt, is there for one reason: to connect the crankshaft to the camshaft at exact points so the valves open and close at the correct time for engine operation. A traditional, old-school timing chain was tight upon installation, and the overall timing set consisted of a crankshaft gear, a camshaft gear and a chain. There was no adjustment or no tensioner. When the chain or the drive gears began to wear, engine performance would suffer, but it would degrade slowly, and most vehicle owners had no idea there was a problem. They wouldn’t know at all until they started to get a hard-start or no-start symptom. And why? There was no crank sensor or cam sensor, and no computer to translate the signals into a crank/cam correlation diagnostic trouble code (DTC). So, we just drove the cars until they wouldn’t drive any more. Early engine design was split between gears or chains, but chains ultimately became more popular because they took up less space and ran quieter, and by the early ‘80s, the majority of cars produced had timing chains. An evolutionary change of timing-chain design included nylon-tooth cam gears. They ran quieter than a traditional steel gear, but they wore out a lot quicker and created problems long before vehicle owners expected, which didn’t do much for their reputation. The tried-and-true timing chain was simple and generally dependable, but times were changing. Buckle Your Belt As the ‘80s rolled on, electronics, emission controls and technology were on solid cruise control and like flipping a switch, timing belts were suddenly in the picture. Although timing-belt-driven overhead camshaft engines weren’t new by any means, the value of the design began to be recognized and auto manufacturers started to change over to this concept. The camshaft was now located on the cylinder head, which eliminated push rods and, on some designs, the rocker arms were eliminated as well, saving weight, lowering cost, reducing valvetrain inertia and making multi-valve designs possible. The easiest way to drive the camshaft was via a timing belt. Since timing chains suffered from inherent gear wear and stretching, engineers decided that belts were the way to go. They were quieter and lighter than a chain and less expensive to manufacture. The tensioning systems were simple, and the belts remained tight for a long time without wearing the cam or crank gear. Seemingly, all was good, but even with the advantages of a timing belt, they required replacement at specific intervals, and the one disadvantage that became known quickly was that if not replaced, they would break with no warning. Simple tensioning systems required adjustment from time to time, and oil leaks also were a problem with timing belts, as they would degrade the rubber quickly and lead to a broken belt. A broken belt could mean a very expensive repair on interference engines. Belt quality and tensioner design improved quickly, eliminating many of the early timing belt troubles, and by the mid- to late-‘90s, timing belts were used on the majority of automobile engines. Belt-service intervals became longer, and consumers were getting used to this being a part of normal maintenance. But you still cannot ignore the replacement interval, and was it possible times were changing again? The Old Ball and Chain As we said “Happy New Year” to a whole new century, engine technology was a freight train out of control. Materials and manufacturing were better, RPMs were higher, turbochargers were boosting like never before and horsepower wars like we hadn’t seen since the ‘60s were heating up again. Smaller engines were producing more power than ever, and variable valve timing was pushing engine performance to the limit. Just like that, engine design required something that was narrower, more durable and more dependable than a timing belt, and consumers no longer wanted the associated maintenance. Hello chains. As of the last decade, timing chains have risen back to the top. Design is far different than that of old, with modern chains traveling around awkward paths of sprockets, hydraulic tensioners and chain guides, offering a high level of dependability and performance. But they couldn’t do it without one critical thing on their side: lubricant technology. A primary reason for timing-chain wear always has been related to lack of oil changes, lower-quality oil, and poor or non-existent positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) systems, which wreaks havoc on engine oil. Modern engine oil is not only far superior than it was just a few decades ago, but PCV technology also is eliminating the majority of blow-by-related contaminants and moisture from building up, resulting in cleaner oil and better lubrication throughout the engine. Timing chains and variable valve timing systems are dependent on clean, healthy lubrication and now they have it, but then again, does everyone change oil as often as they should? Talk to the Techs Timing belts generally are easier to service. This is primarily because they’re located on the outside of the engine and run dry, with no lubrication. When replacing a belt, there’s less cleanup and no time required to reseal engine covers. On the other hand, the engine water pump is frequently driven by the timing belt, so when you replace it, it’s a good practice to replace the pump, as well as any tensioners or rollers. Timing belts came into prominence along with the inline four-cylinder engine. What this brought was more than just cam/crank timing, but also balance shafts and intermediate shafts that often drove distributors and oil pumps. These weren’t hard to work with, but had to be timed correctly during belt replacement. As the timing belt migrated to V-configuration engines, it became a lot longer with additional rollers and a more difficult installation, plus some components such as thermostats were all of a sudden underneath. Some things got better, some got worse. Inspection is an advantage with a timing belt; it’s usually just a couple of bolts and you’re looking right at it. One problem, and a challenge especially on a second-owner vehicle: If the mileage is over that of recommended timing-belt replacement and the owner doesn’t know if it was done, replacement is always recommended. Many belts can look great on the outside but strip the teeth off a day later. The only way to inspect them closely enough to really look at the integrity of the teeth can be to remove them. And then, does it make sense to put the old one back on, and is there a technician who would want to take that gamble? One solution to this is the bright yellow replacement decal that’s included in almost every timing-belt kit, for a technician to fill out and affix under the hood. If only they got used more often. Timing chains, as good as they have become, are not without faults. They can be a bear to inspect and replace, mainly because they’re located inside the engine so they can be lubricated by the engine oil. There’s a lot more cleaning to do and usually a seal or two that needs replaced. Just as with belts, there’s often a water pump that’s driven by the chain that should be replaced. While the chains are more durable and dependable, if oil changes aren’t religious, the guides have a tendency to wear out really quickly. Most guides are steel with some type of nylon or plastic that the chain rides along. Remember the nylon-tooth cam gears? These guides do the same thing and beyond a certain point in wear, the tensioner can no longer take up the slack in the chain. This often leads to a rattling noise and a “Check Engine” light. Most engines still run perfectly fine at this point, with the most common complaint a “Check Engine” light and a cam/crank correlation DTC. Timing-chain replacement is often very expensive due to labor time, but, then again, so is engine repair when a timing belt breaks. They both require special tools at times, so there’s no winner on that argument. And, one more thing: Did we mention the latest technology of belt-in-oil drive systems? Here we go again. So, do you have a preference, or do you agree with my conclusion?

Many belts can look great on the outside but strip the teeth off a day later. The only way to inspect them closely enough to really look at the integrity of the teeth can be to remove them. And then, does it make sense to put the old one back on, and is there a technician who would want to take that gamble? One solution to this is the bright yellow replacement decal that’s included in almost every timing-belt kit, for a technician to fill out and affix under the hood. If only they got used more often.

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Timingchain or belt checker

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A: A wheel bearing is a crucial component that allows the wheel to rotate smoothly. It can be a ball bearing, roller bearing, or hub bearing, and it’s typically housed within the wheel hub assembly.

As the timing belt migrated to V-configuration engines, it became a lot longer with additional rollers and a more difficult installation, plus some components such as thermostats were all of a sudden underneath. Some things got better, some got worse.

A wheel bearing replacement can cost $290 to $475+ depending on the location of the bearing and whether it requires pressing in and out of the hub assembly.

Timing belts vs chainscost

Timing chains, as good as they have become, are not without faults. They can be a bear to inspect and replace, mainly because they’re located inside the engine so they can be lubricated by the engine oil. There’s a lot more cleaning to do and usually a seal or two that needs replaced. Just as with belts, there’s often a water pump that’s driven by the chain that should be replaced. While the chains are more durable and dependable, if oil changes aren’t religious, the guides have a tendency to wear out really quickly. Most guides are steel with some type of nylon or plastic that the chain rides along. Remember the nylon-tooth cam gears? These guides do the same thing and beyond a certain point in wear, the tensioner can no longer take up the slack in the chain. This often leads to a rattling noise and a “Check Engine” light. Most engines still run perfectly fine at this point, with the most common complaint a “Check Engine” light and a cam/crank correlation DTC. Timing-chain replacement is often very expensive due to labor time, but, then again, so is engine repair when a timing belt breaks. They both require special tools at times, so there’s no winner on that argument. And, one more thing: Did we mention the latest technology of belt-in-oil drive systems? Here we go again. So, do you have a preference, or do you agree with my conclusion?

Think about it like a skateboard bearing, if you’re familiar, but on a much larger and more complex scale. The wheel bearing is at the center of the wheel hub, and it allows for the wheel to move smoothly. Without it, your wheels wouldn’t spin efficiently, or spin at all, really.

So, if you’ve made it to this point, you’re probably wondering how much it costs to fix that bad wheel bearing of yours. As with all car repairs, the cost can vary greatly by make and model, but according to Repair Pal, the cost of getting your wheel bearing repaired is typically between $326 and $367.

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As the ‘80s rolled on, electronics, emission controls and technology were on solid cruise control and like flipping a switch, timing belts were suddenly in the picture. Although timing-belt-driven overhead camshaft engines weren’t new by any means, the value of the design began to be recognized and auto manufacturers started to change over to this concept. The camshaft was now located on the cylinder head, which eliminated push rods and, on some designs, the rocker arms were eliminated as well, saving weight, lowering cost, reducing valvetrain inertia and making multi-valve designs possible. The easiest way to drive the camshaft was via a timing belt. Since timing chains suffered from inherent gear wear and stretching, engineers decided that belts were the way to go. They were quieter and lighter than a chain and less expensive to manufacture. The tensioning systems were simple, and the belts remained tight for a long time without wearing the cam or crank gear. Seemingly, all was good, but even with the advantages of a timing belt, they required replacement at specific intervals, and the one disadvantage that became known quickly was that if not replaced, they would break with no warning. Simple tensioning systems required adjustment from time to time, and oil leaks also were a problem with timing belts, as they would degrade the rubber quickly and lead to a broken belt. A broken belt could mean a very expensive repair on interference engines. Belt quality and tensioner design improved quickly, eliminating many of the early timing belt troubles, and by the mid- to late-‘90s, timing belts were used on the majority of automobile engines. Belt-service intervals became longer, and consumers were getting used to this being a part of normal maintenance. But you still cannot ignore the replacement interval, and was it possible times were changing again? The Old Ball and Chain As we said “Happy New Year” to a whole new century, engine technology was a freight train out of control. Materials and manufacturing were better, RPMs were higher, turbochargers were boosting like never before and horsepower wars like we hadn’t seen since the ‘60s were heating up again. Smaller engines were producing more power than ever, and variable valve timing was pushing engine performance to the limit. Just like that, engine design required something that was narrower, more durable and more dependable than a timing belt, and consumers no longer wanted the associated maintenance. Hello chains. As of the last decade, timing chains have risen back to the top. Design is far different than that of old, with modern chains traveling around awkward paths of sprockets, hydraulic tensioners and chain guides, offering a high level of dependability and performance. But they couldn’t do it without one critical thing on their side: lubricant technology. A primary reason for timing-chain wear always has been related to lack of oil changes, lower-quality oil, and poor or non-existent positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) systems, which wreaks havoc on engine oil. Modern engine oil is not only far superior than it was just a few decades ago, but PCV technology also is eliminating the majority of blow-by-related contaminants and moisture from building up, resulting in cleaner oil and better lubrication throughout the engine. Timing chains and variable valve timing systems are dependent on clean, healthy lubrication and now they have it, but then again, does everyone change oil as often as they should? Talk to the Techs Timing belts generally are easier to service. This is primarily because they’re located on the outside of the engine and run dry, with no lubrication. When replacing a belt, there’s less cleanup and no time required to reseal engine covers. On the other hand, the engine water pump is frequently driven by the timing belt, so when you replace it, it’s a good practice to replace the pump, as well as any tensioners or rollers. Timing belts came into prominence along with the inline four-cylinder engine. What this brought was more than just cam/crank timing, but also balance shafts and intermediate shafts that often drove distributors and oil pumps. These weren’t hard to work with, but had to be timed correctly during belt replacement. As the timing belt migrated to V-configuration engines, it became a lot longer with additional rollers and a more difficult installation, plus some components such as thermostats were all of a sudden underneath. Some things got better, some got worse. Inspection is an advantage with a timing belt; it’s usually just a couple of bolts and you’re looking right at it. One problem, and a challenge especially on a second-owner vehicle: If the mileage is over that of recommended timing-belt replacement and the owner doesn’t know if it was done, replacement is always recommended. Many belts can look great on the outside but strip the teeth off a day later. The only way to inspect them closely enough to really look at the integrity of the teeth can be to remove them. And then, does it make sense to put the old one back on, and is there a technician who would want to take that gamble? One solution to this is the bright yellow replacement decal that’s included in almost every timing-belt kit, for a technician to fill out and affix under the hood. If only they got used more often. Timing chains, as good as they have become, are not without faults. They can be a bear to inspect and replace, mainly because they’re located inside the engine so they can be lubricated by the engine oil. There’s a lot more cleaning to do and usually a seal or two that needs replaced. Just as with belts, there’s often a water pump that’s driven by the chain that should be replaced. While the chains are more durable and dependable, if oil changes aren’t religious, the guides have a tendency to wear out really quickly. Most guides are steel with some type of nylon or plastic that the chain rides along. Remember the nylon-tooth cam gears? These guides do the same thing and beyond a certain point in wear, the tensioner can no longer take up the slack in the chain. This often leads to a rattling noise and a “Check Engine” light. Most engines still run perfectly fine at this point, with the most common complaint a “Check Engine” light and a cam/crank correlation DTC. Timing-chain replacement is often very expensive due to labor time, but, then again, so is engine repair when a timing belt breaks. They both require special tools at times, so there’s no winner on that argument. And, one more thing: Did we mention the latest technology of belt-in-oil drive systems? Here we go again. So, do you have a preference, or do you agree with my conclusion?

The Deep Groove Ball Bearing, known as 6208-N Generic, has an inner diameter of 40 mm, an outer diameter of 80 mm and a thickness of 18 mm.

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Wheel hub assemblies connect your vehicle's wheels and rotor to the caliper and allow smooth rotation.

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A timing chain, just like a belt, is there for one reason: to connect the crankshaft to the camshaft at exact points so the valves open and close at the correct time for engine operation. A traditional, old-school timing chain was tight upon installation, and the overall timing set consisted of a crankshaft gear, a camshaft gear and a chain. There was no adjustment or no tensioner. When the chain or the drive gears began to wear, engine performance would suffer, but it would degrade slowly, and most vehicle owners had no idea there was a problem. They wouldn’t know at all until they started to get a hard-start or no-start symptom. And why? There was no crank sensor or cam sensor, and no computer to translate the signals into a crank/cam correlation diagnostic trouble code (DTC). So, we just drove the cars until they wouldn’t drive any more. Early engine design was split between gears or chains, but chains ultimately became more popular because they took up less space and ran quieter, and by the early ‘80s, the majority of cars produced had timing chains. An evolutionary change of timing-chain design included nylon-tooth cam gears. They ran quieter than a traditional steel gear, but they wore out a lot quicker and created problems long before vehicle owners expected, which didn’t do much for their reputation. The tried-and-true timing chain was simple and generally dependable, but times were changing. Buckle Your Belt As the ‘80s rolled on, electronics, emission controls and technology were on solid cruise control and like flipping a switch, timing belts were suddenly in the picture. Although timing-belt-driven overhead camshaft engines weren’t new by any means, the value of the design began to be recognized and auto manufacturers started to change over to this concept. The camshaft was now located on the cylinder head, which eliminated push rods and, on some designs, the rocker arms were eliminated as well, saving weight, lowering cost, reducing valvetrain inertia and making multi-valve designs possible. The easiest way to drive the camshaft was via a timing belt. Since timing chains suffered from inherent gear wear and stretching, engineers decided that belts were the way to go. They were quieter and lighter than a chain and less expensive to manufacture. The tensioning systems were simple, and the belts remained tight for a long time without wearing the cam or crank gear. Seemingly, all was good, but even with the advantages of a timing belt, they required replacement at specific intervals, and the one disadvantage that became known quickly was that if not replaced, they would break with no warning. Simple tensioning systems required adjustment from time to time, and oil leaks also were a problem with timing belts, as they would degrade the rubber quickly and lead to a broken belt. A broken belt could mean a very expensive repair on interference engines. Belt quality and tensioner design improved quickly, eliminating many of the early timing belt troubles, and by the mid- to late-‘90s, timing belts were used on the majority of automobile engines. Belt-service intervals became longer, and consumers were getting used to this being a part of normal maintenance. But you still cannot ignore the replacement interval, and was it possible times were changing again? The Old Ball and Chain As we said “Happy New Year” to a whole new century, engine technology was a freight train out of control. Materials and manufacturing were better, RPMs were higher, turbochargers were boosting like never before and horsepower wars like we hadn’t seen since the ‘60s were heating up again. Smaller engines were producing more power than ever, and variable valve timing was pushing engine performance to the limit. Just like that, engine design required something that was narrower, more durable and more dependable than a timing belt, and consumers no longer wanted the associated maintenance. Hello chains. As of the last decade, timing chains have risen back to the top. Design is far different than that of old, with modern chains traveling around awkward paths of sprockets, hydraulic tensioners and chain guides, offering a high level of dependability and performance. But they couldn’t do it without one critical thing on their side: lubricant technology. A primary reason for timing-chain wear always has been related to lack of oil changes, lower-quality oil, and poor or non-existent positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) systems, which wreaks havoc on engine oil. Modern engine oil is not only far superior than it was just a few decades ago, but PCV technology also is eliminating the majority of blow-by-related contaminants and moisture from building up, resulting in cleaner oil and better lubrication throughout the engine. Timing chains and variable valve timing systems are dependent on clean, healthy lubrication and now they have it, but then again, does everyone change oil as often as they should? Talk to the Techs Timing belts generally are easier to service. This is primarily because they’re located on the outside of the engine and run dry, with no lubrication. When replacing a belt, there’s less cleanup and no time required to reseal engine covers. On the other hand, the engine water pump is frequently driven by the timing belt, so when you replace it, it’s a good practice to replace the pump, as well as any tensioners or rollers. Timing belts came into prominence along with the inline four-cylinder engine. What this brought was more than just cam/crank timing, but also balance shafts and intermediate shafts that often drove distributors and oil pumps. These weren’t hard to work with, but had to be timed correctly during belt replacement. As the timing belt migrated to V-configuration engines, it became a lot longer with additional rollers and a more difficult installation, plus some components such as thermostats were all of a sudden underneath. Some things got better, some got worse. Inspection is an advantage with a timing belt; it’s usually just a couple of bolts and you’re looking right at it. One problem, and a challenge especially on a second-owner vehicle: If the mileage is over that of recommended timing-belt replacement and the owner doesn’t know if it was done, replacement is always recommended. Many belts can look great on the outside but strip the teeth off a day later. The only way to inspect them closely enough to really look at the integrity of the teeth can be to remove them. And then, does it make sense to put the old one back on, and is there a technician who would want to take that gamble? One solution to this is the bright yellow replacement decal that’s included in almost every timing-belt kit, for a technician to fill out and affix under the hood. If only they got used more often. Timing chains, as good as they have become, are not without faults. They can be a bear to inspect and replace, mainly because they’re located inside the engine so they can be lubricated by the engine oil. There’s a lot more cleaning to do and usually a seal or two that needs replaced. Just as with belts, there’s often a water pump that’s driven by the chain that should be replaced. While the chains are more durable and dependable, if oil changes aren’t religious, the guides have a tendency to wear out really quickly. Most guides are steel with some type of nylon or plastic that the chain rides along. Remember the nylon-tooth cam gears? These guides do the same thing and beyond a certain point in wear, the tensioner can no longer take up the slack in the chain. This often leads to a rattling noise and a “Check Engine” light. Most engines still run perfectly fine at this point, with the most common complaint a “Check Engine” light and a cam/crank correlation DTC. Timing-chain replacement is often very expensive due to labor time, but, then again, so is engine repair when a timing belt breaks. They both require special tools at times, so there’s no winner on that argument. And, one more thing: Did we mention the latest technology of belt-in-oil drive systems? Here we go again. So, do you have a preference, or do you agree with my conclusion?

The October 3 event will cover key topics facing the automotive industry today and feature a wide range of sessions by prominent industry figures, Northwood University said.

Now, you may never have to replace a wheel bearing, as they’re typically pretty hardy. However, if you do, there’s a chance that the wheel bearing opposite the bad one has suffered through the same experiences that the bad one has. Keeping that in mind, it’s safe to say that it’s nearing the end of its life, as well.

Now, you may be thinking this is an alignment issue, and it could be. One way to tell the difference between the two is the consistency. When a wheel bearing causes pulling, it may only cause it to happen randomly, then things will sort themselves out again. An alignment pull will be continuous.

Automatic transmissions are in the majority of all new vehicles; however a manual transmission has some advantages in efficiency and performance.

Timingbelt chain replacement cost

Wheel bearings are the component that allow the other parts of your wheels to work smoothly. The wheel bearings are a series of steel balls encased in the hub assembly of your wheel. They are packed with grease, and as your wheel spins they move inside a race, the metal ring that holds them in place. It’s a closed system, keeping the lubricant inside and the elements out.

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As a counter-professional, you can capitalize on selling brake service essentials, and, in addition, proper maintenance will reduce warranty claims caused by lack of this often-forgotten service.

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Modern engine oil is not only far superior than it was just a few decades ago, but PCV technology also is eliminating the majority of blow-by-related contaminants and moisture from building up, resulting in cleaner oil and better lubrication throughout the engine.

Let’s check out how a wheel bearing works and why it’s important, and then move on to what it could cost you to get that bad bearing fixed.

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May 8, 2023 — So, yeah, the symptoms of a bad wheel bearing are still a rumble that varies with speed, and wheel bearing play is still discernible by doing ...

The easiest way to drive the camshaft was via a timing belt. Since timing chains suffered from inherent gear wear and stretching, engineers decided that belts were the way to go. They were quieter and lighter than a chain and less expensive to manufacture.

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Well, as a general rule of thumb, yes. When you’ve identified that one wheel bearing has gone bad, then it’s likely the problem has affected the other side of the vehicle. When a part goes bad on one side of the vehicle, the other side of the vehicle tends to compensate, affecting its overall performance, as well.

Driving feel can mean a number of things, but in terms of a bad wheel bearing, it will lend itself to a few specifically. The first of these feelings that you’ll find is vibration. When a wheel bearing begins to go bad you’ll feel it in one or two places, either vibrating through the steering column and into your hands, and/or in the entire vehicle itself. This vibration is a pretty good indicator that a wheel bearing may be starting to go bad.

The key to brake system longevity is maintenance. Many vehicle owners don’t realize their brakes should be serviced on a regular basis and there are two primary procedures: maintenance at the wheel and brake fluid changes. As a counter-professional, you can capitalize on selling brake service essentials, and, in addition, proper maintenance will reduce warranty claims caused by lack of this often-forgotten service.

This often leads to a rattling noise and a “Check Engine” light. Most engines still run perfectly fine at this point, with the most common complaint a “Check Engine” light and a cam/crank correlation DTC.

Early engine design was split between gears or chains, but chains ultimately became more popular because they took up less space and ran quieter, and by the early ‘80s, the majority of cars produced had timing chains.

When it comes to bad wheel bearings, they’re easiest to identify by listening to your vehicle, as well as paying attention to how it’s handling. With these two simple things, paired with the knowledge provided here, you’ll be ready to diagnose a bad wheel bearing and pay the right price to get it taken care of.

A: Often, yes. The wheel hub assembly includes the hub bearing and other components. Replacing the entire assembly can be costlier than just the bearing, but it might be a more comprehensive solution, especially if other parts are worn out.

While the chains are more durable and dependable, if oil changes aren’t religious, the guides have a tendency to wear out really quickly. Most guides are steel with some type of nylon or plastic that the chain rides along. Remember the nylon-tooth cam gears? These guides do the same thing and beyond a certain point in wear, the tensioner can no longer take up the slack in the chain.

As we said “Happy New Year” to a whole new century, engine technology was a freight train out of control. Materials and manufacturing were better, RPMs were higher, turbochargers were boosting like never before and horsepower wars like we hadn’t seen since the ‘60s were heating up again.

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When the chain or the drive gears began to wear, engine performance would suffer, but it would degrade slowly, and most vehicle owners had no idea there was a problem. They wouldn’t know at all until they started to get a hard-start or no-start symptom. And why? There was no crank sensor or cam sensor, and no computer to translate the signals into a crank/cam correlation diagnostic trouble code (DTC). So, we just drove the cars until they wouldn’t drive any more.

For many years, timing chains were the go-to for engine design. Generally speaking, they were dependable and didn’t require any specific maintenance. They were lubricated by the engine oil, so if you changed it on a regular basis, the timing chain would hold up well.

Or would they? A lot of people still say, “They don’t build them like they used to.”  This is true, and coming from someone who is an old-car enthusiast, I’ll defend a level of workmanship that we don’t see in today’s vehicle. But the statement, while true, doesn’t always mean they built them better.

Timing belts vs chainspros and cons

Smaller engines were producing more power than ever, and variable valve timing was pushing engine performance to the limit. Just like that, engine design required something that was narrower, more durable and more dependable than a timing belt, and consumers no longer wanted the associated maintenance. Hello chains.

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Timing belts came into prominence along with the inline four-cylinder engine. What this brought was more than just cam/crank timing, but also balance shafts and intermediate shafts that often drove distributors and oil pumps. These weren’t hard to work with, but had to be timed correctly during belt replacement. As the timing belt migrated to V-configuration engines, it became a lot longer with additional rollers and a more difficult installation, plus some components such as thermostats were all of a sudden underneath. Some things got better, some got worse. Inspection is an advantage with a timing belt; it’s usually just a couple of bolts and you’re looking right at it. One problem, and a challenge especially on a second-owner vehicle: If the mileage is over that of recommended timing-belt replacement and the owner doesn’t know if it was done, replacement is always recommended. Many belts can look great on the outside but strip the teeth off a day later. The only way to inspect them closely enough to really look at the integrity of the teeth can be to remove them. And then, does it make sense to put the old one back on, and is there a technician who would want to take that gamble? One solution to this is the bright yellow replacement decal that’s included in almost every timing-belt kit, for a technician to fill out and affix under the hood. If only they got used more often. Timing chains, as good as they have become, are not without faults. They can be a bear to inspect and replace, mainly because they’re located inside the engine so they can be lubricated by the engine oil. There’s a lot more cleaning to do and usually a seal or two that needs replaced. Just as with belts, there’s often a water pump that’s driven by the chain that should be replaced. While the chains are more durable and dependable, if oil changes aren’t religious, the guides have a tendency to wear out really quickly. Most guides are steel with some type of nylon or plastic that the chain rides along. Remember the nylon-tooth cam gears? These guides do the same thing and beyond a certain point in wear, the tensioner can no longer take up the slack in the chain. This often leads to a rattling noise and a “Check Engine” light. Most engines still run perfectly fine at this point, with the most common complaint a “Check Engine” light and a cam/crank correlation DTC. Timing-chain replacement is often very expensive due to labor time, but, then again, so is engine repair when a timing belt breaks. They both require special tools at times, so there’s no winner on that argument. And, one more thing: Did we mention the latest technology of belt-in-oil drive systems? Here we go again. So, do you have a preference, or do you agree with my conclusion?

Vehicular noise and road noise are a common part of driving. Starting your vehicle brings with it a plethora of noises that you may or may not be familiar with, and so does driving. So let’s say that when you’re driving you start to hear a heavy grinding but only while in motion. That could be the sound of a wheel bearing telling you it’s time to be repaired, or replaced.

When wheel bearings start to go bad it’s imperative to get them checked out and repaired or replaced quickly. Let’s check out a few ways to know if your wheel bearings need some attention.

Timing belts generally are easier to service. This is primarily because they’re located on the outside of the engine and run dry, with no lubrication. When replacing a belt, there’s less cleanup and no time required to reseal engine covers. On the other hand, the engine water pump is frequently driven by the timing belt, so when you replace it, it’s a good practice to replace the pump, as well as any tensioners or rollers.

In the case of timing chains, they sometimes wore quicker than a lot of people realized. What happened when they did? On an old car, nothing right away. At least nothing of which the owner was aware.

Timingbeltvsserpentine belt

Timing belts vs chainsreddit

Additionally, should the bearing be damaged and the internals exposed, debris from the road can make its way inside. This will also cause that grinding and grating that you’ll be able to hear.

A: Common signs include grinding or roaring noises from the wheel area, a feeling of looseness in steering, or uneven tire wear. If the issue lies with the steering knuckle or hub assembly, you might also notice steering problems.

In most cases, a bad wheel bearing will “tell” you that it’s going bad. They tend to grind, making a loud groaning sound. This is a result of the steel balls making contact with the race due to a lack of lubrication. Unlike engine components that require lubrication, wheel bearings are packed with a grease that is not replenished automatically. In other words, it’s got all the grease it’ll have until someone gives it more.

There are a handful of ways to identify a bad wheel bearing, having mainly to do with sound and feeling. Understanding what your vehicle sounds like and feels like under normal conditions is immensely helpful here, as a bad wheel bearing will cause your vehicle to act very differently from what you’re used to.

Timing-chain replacement is often very expensive due to labor time, but, then again, so is engine repair when a timing belt breaks. They both require special tools at times, so there’s no winner on that argument. And, one more thing: Did we mention the latest technology of belt-in-oil drive systems? Here we go again. So, do you have a preference, or do you agree with my conclusion?

A primary reason for timing-chain wear always has been related to lack of oil changes, lower-quality oil, and poor or non-existent positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) systems, which wreaks havoc on engine oil.

As soon as the call ends, or the online order is sent, we are “on the clock,” even if it is only the customer’s internal clock.

Belt quality and tensioner design improved quickly, eliminating many of the early timing belt troubles, and by the mid- to late-‘90s, timing belts were used on the majority of automobile engines. Belt-service intervals became longer, and consumers were getting used to this being a part of normal maintenance. But you still cannot ignore the replacement interval, and was it possible times were changing again?

Timingbeltvs timingchain pros and cons

Although timing-belt-driven overhead camshaft engines weren’t new by any means, the value of the design began to be recognized and auto manufacturers started to change over to this concept. The camshaft was now located on the cylinder head, which eliminated push rods and, on some designs, the rocker arms were eliminated as well, saving weight, lowering cost, reducing valvetrain inertia and making multi-valve designs possible.

RepairPal estimates that in terms of labor you’ll be paying anywhere from $157 to $198 in labor, while the average price for the parts themselves are $169. That being said, being able to do the wheel bearing replacement yourself is a nice little penny saver, if you’ve got the right tools. It’s also important to keep in mind that Repair Pal’s estimate is quoting the costs for doing both the left and the right side of whatever axle the bad wheel bearing is on.

Unless you’re a mechanic or super-dedicated car enthusiast, you might not know much about the brakes on your car. How long do they typically last?​ How often should you replace your brakes​? We’ve got answers

The other kind of feeling you’ll get from a bad wheel bearing is pulling. The vehicle may be traveling in a straight line, but through the steering wheel you’ll feel it trying to drift to one side or the other.

As of the last decade, timing chains have risen back to the top. Design is far different than that of old, with modern chains traveling around awkward paths of sprockets, hydraulic tensioners and chain guides, offering a high level of dependability and performance. But they couldn’t do it without one critical thing on their side: lubricant technology. A primary reason for timing-chain wear always has been related to lack of oil changes, lower-quality oil, and poor or non-existent positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) systems, which wreaks havoc on engine oil. Modern engine oil is not only far superior than it was just a few decades ago, but PCV technology also is eliminating the majority of blow-by-related contaminants and moisture from building up, resulting in cleaner oil and better lubrication throughout the engine. Timing chains and variable valve timing systems are dependent on clean, healthy lubrication and now they have it, but then again, does everyone change oil as often as they should? Talk to the Techs Timing belts generally are easier to service. This is primarily because they’re located on the outside of the engine and run dry, with no lubrication. When replacing a belt, there’s less cleanup and no time required to reseal engine covers. On the other hand, the engine water pump is frequently driven by the timing belt, so when you replace it, it’s a good practice to replace the pump, as well as any tensioners or rollers. Timing belts came into prominence along with the inline four-cylinder engine. What this brought was more than just cam/crank timing, but also balance shafts and intermediate shafts that often drove distributors and oil pumps. These weren’t hard to work with, but had to be timed correctly during belt replacement. As the timing belt migrated to V-configuration engines, it became a lot longer with additional rollers and a more difficult installation, plus some components such as thermostats were all of a sudden underneath. Some things got better, some got worse. Inspection is an advantage with a timing belt; it’s usually just a couple of bolts and you’re looking right at it. One problem, and a challenge especially on a second-owner vehicle: If the mileage is over that of recommended timing-belt replacement and the owner doesn’t know if it was done, replacement is always recommended. Many belts can look great on the outside but strip the teeth off a day later. The only way to inspect them closely enough to really look at the integrity of the teeth can be to remove them. And then, does it make sense to put the old one back on, and is there a technician who would want to take that gamble? One solution to this is the bright yellow replacement decal that’s included in almost every timing-belt kit, for a technician to fill out and affix under the hood. If only they got used more often. Timing chains, as good as they have become, are not without faults. They can be a bear to inspect and replace, mainly because they’re located inside the engine so they can be lubricated by the engine oil. There’s a lot more cleaning to do and usually a seal or two that needs replaced. Just as with belts, there’s often a water pump that’s driven by the chain that should be replaced. While the chains are more durable and dependable, if oil changes aren’t religious, the guides have a tendency to wear out really quickly. Most guides are steel with some type of nylon or plastic that the chain rides along. Remember the nylon-tooth cam gears? These guides do the same thing and beyond a certain point in wear, the tensioner can no longer take up the slack in the chain. This often leads to a rattling noise and a “Check Engine” light. Most engines still run perfectly fine at this point, with the most common complaint a “Check Engine” light and a cam/crank correlation DTC. Timing-chain replacement is often very expensive due to labor time, but, then again, so is engine repair when a timing belt breaks. They both require special tools at times, so there’s no winner on that argument. And, one more thing: Did we mention the latest technology of belt-in-oil drive systems? Here we go again. So, do you have a preference, or do you agree with my conclusion?

An evolutionary change of timing-chain design included nylon-tooth cam gears. They ran quieter than a traditional steel gear, but they wore out a lot quicker and created problems long before vehicle owners expected, which didn’t do much for their reputation. The tried-and-true timing chain was simple and generally dependable, but times were changing.

Seemingly, all was good, but even with the advantages of a timing belt, they required replacement at specific intervals, and the one disadvantage that became known quickly was that if not replaced, they would break with no warning. Simple tensioning systems required adjustment from time to time, and oil leaks also were a problem with timing belts, as they would degrade the rubber quickly and lead to a broken belt. A broken belt could mean a very expensive repair on interference engines. Belt quality and tensioner design improved quickly, eliminating many of the early timing belt troubles, and by the mid- to late-‘90s, timing belts were used on the majority of automobile engines. Belt-service intervals became longer, and consumers were getting used to this being a part of normal maintenance. But you still cannot ignore the replacement interval, and was it possible times were changing again? The Old Ball and Chain As we said “Happy New Year” to a whole new century, engine technology was a freight train out of control. Materials and manufacturing were better, RPMs were higher, turbochargers were boosting like never before and horsepower wars like we hadn’t seen since the ‘60s were heating up again. Smaller engines were producing more power than ever, and variable valve timing was pushing engine performance to the limit. Just like that, engine design required something that was narrower, more durable and more dependable than a timing belt, and consumers no longer wanted the associated maintenance. Hello chains. As of the last decade, timing chains have risen back to the top. Design is far different than that of old, with modern chains traveling around awkward paths of sprockets, hydraulic tensioners and chain guides, offering a high level of dependability and performance. But they couldn’t do it without one critical thing on their side: lubricant technology. A primary reason for timing-chain wear always has been related to lack of oil changes, lower-quality oil, and poor or non-existent positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) systems, which wreaks havoc on engine oil. Modern engine oil is not only far superior than it was just a few decades ago, but PCV technology also is eliminating the majority of blow-by-related contaminants and moisture from building up, resulting in cleaner oil and better lubrication throughout the engine. Timing chains and variable valve timing systems are dependent on clean, healthy lubrication and now they have it, but then again, does everyone change oil as often as they should? Talk to the Techs Timing belts generally are easier to service. This is primarily because they’re located on the outside of the engine and run dry, with no lubrication. When replacing a belt, there’s less cleanup and no time required to reseal engine covers. On the other hand, the engine water pump is frequently driven by the timing belt, so when you replace it, it’s a good practice to replace the pump, as well as any tensioners or rollers. Timing belts came into prominence along with the inline four-cylinder engine. What this brought was more than just cam/crank timing, but also balance shafts and intermediate shafts that often drove distributors and oil pumps. These weren’t hard to work with, but had to be timed correctly during belt replacement. As the timing belt migrated to V-configuration engines, it became a lot longer with additional rollers and a more difficult installation, plus some components such as thermostats were all of a sudden underneath. Some things got better, some got worse. Inspection is an advantage with a timing belt; it’s usually just a couple of bolts and you’re looking right at it. One problem, and a challenge especially on a second-owner vehicle: If the mileage is over that of recommended timing-belt replacement and the owner doesn’t know if it was done, replacement is always recommended. Many belts can look great on the outside but strip the teeth off a day later. The only way to inspect them closely enough to really look at the integrity of the teeth can be to remove them. And then, does it make sense to put the old one back on, and is there a technician who would want to take that gamble? One solution to this is the bright yellow replacement decal that’s included in almost every timing-belt kit, for a technician to fill out and affix under the hood. If only they got used more often. Timing chains, as good as they have become, are not without faults. They can be a bear to inspect and replace, mainly because they’re located inside the engine so they can be lubricated by the engine oil. There’s a lot more cleaning to do and usually a seal or two that needs replaced. Just as with belts, there’s often a water pump that’s driven by the chain that should be replaced. While the chains are more durable and dependable, if oil changes aren’t religious, the guides have a tendency to wear out really quickly. Most guides are steel with some type of nylon or plastic that the chain rides along. Remember the nylon-tooth cam gears? These guides do the same thing and beyond a certain point in wear, the tensioner can no longer take up the slack in the chain. This often leads to a rattling noise and a “Check Engine” light. Most engines still run perfectly fine at this point, with the most common complaint a “Check Engine” light and a cam/crank correlation DTC. Timing-chain replacement is often very expensive due to labor time, but, then again, so is engine repair when a timing belt breaks. They both require special tools at times, so there’s no winner on that argument. And, one more thing: Did we mention the latest technology of belt-in-oil drive systems? Here we go again. So, do you have a preference, or do you agree with my conclusion?