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Premature wear can also be caused by transient current flow, which is the friction created by faulty electrical grounds which allow current to build up on the moving parts of the chassis. Vehicles build up static electricity during operation and this is usually dissipated by the vehicle’s ground points. Bad ground points = bad news.

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Typically, these sorts of long-term wear-and-tear symptoms will also cause damage to ball joints, tie rods, struts, and other chassis/suspension components.

Two other problems that are often left undiagnosed when wheel bearings repeatedly fail are a worn bearing hub and transient current flow through the knuckle. If the bearings were grinding or otherwise making their failure known for any period of time, it’s likely that the bearing hub took some damage. When removed, it will show signs of scraping or dimpling. It may also be out of round. Any of these means the hub should be replaced.

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The most common cause for wheel hub bearing failure is impact. When the tire and wheel hit an object or road defect hard, the bearings can be damaged. Likewise, broken or worn seals can allow moisture or debris into the hub, causing the bearings to deteriorate.

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It starts with a noise. With the radio on and wind from the windows, it’s easy to ignore at first. But the more miles you drive, that subtle noise grows to a metal on metal grinding sound you can’t ignore.

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The symptoms of a bad wheel bearing are relatively straightforward: You’ll hear a grinding noise until you’re driving fast enough that road noise masks it (50mph and faster). The noise indicates metal-on-metal rubbing at a fast rate and comes from the faulty bearings scraping against their housing and, worse, the wheel hub around them.

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You might notice other signs as well, including wobbly steering or uneven wear on your tires. These are all signs of your wheel bearing going bad, and they should all be taken seriously. Otherwise, you may end up losing the wheel while driving, which could be catastrophic.