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Chinese bearing manufacturers

Consider; you can build a press. That's going to be some heavy plates and thick threaded rods. You'll have a homemade tool, with no guarantees that it will take the pressure, and you'll still have purchased a bottle jack and the materials to make the press. It's unlikely that you'll have that quality of equipment lying around in the shop.

I have done that type in a big vice on a large stout workbench , long large tapered punch or iron workers alignment bar, 5lb hammer and the appropriate sized impact sockets.

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This is the only way I have ever done this type since making a press jig for the assembly would require a machine shop and welder.

PolyurethaneCam Follower

Place the socket on the inner hub and start hitting it as hard as you can, it takes a while but it will push out. Keep checking the vice is kept tight. If it does not move get a bigger hammer. I always had a helper when doing these.

Once out you can remove the snap ring and use a larger socket to push or hammer the bearing out from the other side. Once the bearing is out, clean the snap ring groove and bearing hole, lube the hole, lube the new bearing on the outside and press it in, put in new snap ring. then press (or hammer) the spindle into the new bearing while using a large socket on the other side to support the inner bearing race so you don't damage the snap ring or the new bearing.

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Pick a deep impact socket that is slightly smaller than the inside of the wheel bearing, (use the new bearing figure that out.)

Or... you could buy the correct tool for servicing wheel bearings. The cheapest option, the safest, and no need to even take the hub off the car to do the work. And once you've finished with it, you can always sell the kit to offset the total cost of the job.

Lily Bearing

Do you have any advice on how I can do this? I'm trying to do this as cheap as possible. Ideally I won't have to buy anything other than the materials to create the press.

I clamped the part with 2 holes (clamp the machined surface) in the vice, snap ring side side up, use the hammer to really tighten the vice. Stick the punch through the hole on the opposite side and block the end of the tapered punch up from the bench to make it fairly level so the assembly cannot pivot downward toward the bench when you start wailing on it with the hammer. If the bench the vice is on is not stout enough you will get too much rebound and you may not get the bearing out, I always used a heavy steel home made bench, 3/8-1/2 thick steel plate top.

I've never done a wheel bearing before. I would prefer to save the wheel hub if possible. I don't have a press but they look pretty simple to make so I thought I'd give it a try. Basically two steal u-beams connected by two threaded rods.

This is a urethane roller with bearings glued to the urethane roller. Since no core metal is used, it can be purchased at a low price. [Type] Urethane roller[Roller shape] Straight[Urethane rubber processing] Adhesive[Roller end specifications] With bearing[Material] Bearing: Steel > Urethane: Ether polyurethane (natural color)[Hardness (shore)] A90[Surface treatment] None