204KRR2 TKN | Timken 204KRR2C1 - 204krr2

2024-11-17 00:44:55

SKFbearing fit chart

Just took this off my new to me accord. Seller said ball joint was bad. I moved car 10 ft in his driveway and said wheel bearing is bad too.

Bearing fitcalculator

Let’s get more specific and use the following measurements: the shaft is 20mm with a 6204 ball bearing (0.787402” x 1.85039”)(I.D. x O.D.). In this circumstance, you’ll need an interference fit on the shaft because the inner ring is the one rotating. A transition fit is most appropriate for the housing bore because it will allow for easier installation as well as displacement for removal.

Any time ever I’ve experienced a sticking caliper it was immediately or shortly following brake work (requiring retracting the caliper pistons). CSA

Bearingshaft sizechart

An interference fit is precisely the opposite of the clearance fit. In this fit, often referred to as a press-fit, there is interference between the bearing ring and its mating part. The bearing bore is smaller than your shaft diameter, or your bearing O.D. is larger than your housing bore. This interference will make the parts challenging to assemble, and they will typically require pressing into place, or use of a heat fit to allow for easier assembly.

Before selecting a housing or shaft fit, look to the application for guidance. Our Axis catalog has all the information you’ll need to accurately determine the specified tolerance range recommendations appropriate for every application.

The primary factor to consider is the rotation of the bearing’s inner ring and its relationship to the radial load. The amount of the radial load will also influence the choice of fit. For indeterminate or varying load directions, avoid clearance fits. Additionally, apply a clearance fit for applications with an axially split housing to avoid distorting the bearing’s outer rings.

It will be unusual for a shaft and housing fit to be the same. One fit requires a clearance fit, the other, generally, the rotating ring, will require an interference fit. The rotating ring requires this interference fit because when applying the load to a looser fit, there would be slippage and a loss of efficiency, and eventually, surface damage or fretting corrosion. Often, vibrating or shaker-type applications vary from the above generality. Incorrect fits can cause premature bearing failure.

Bearinghousing sizechart

The friendly engineers at Baart are always ready with helpful tips and advice. Questions about your application? Contact us.

Most general applications include inner ring rotation and a constant radial load. For these conditions, we recommend an interference fit between the shaft and bearing bore. The level of interference will increase for heavier loads. When shaft conditions are stationary, and the radial load is constant, a moderate clearance fit between the shaft and bearing bore is an option.

Your housing fit can be different from your shaft fit, and often is. Like the shaft fit, many conditions determine which fit is best. Considerations include the rotation of the inner or outer rings, type of load, and how easily it should be to install or remove the bearing from the housing.

A proper shaft and housing fit are vital for the life of your bearings. There are several types of shaft and housing fits. Several factors will determine the appropriate fit for your application. Do not skim through bearing fit selection. Poor design or the incorrect fit selection is setting the application up for continual failure.

Since I’ve had a faulty tires that caused steering wheel wobbles before, I considered that it could be the tires, but these tires are nearly brand new… the tires don’t quite explain the other symptoms.

The burning smell would be hot brakes, which you should really only smell if you’re in the vicinity of a race track. On a street car it means the brakes are being overworked, in your case because the brakes are rubbing on the rotor while you’re driving.

However, there is one thing that prevents me from being absolutely certain and that is my reasoning that bad wheel bearings on one side that causes the car to lurch and drag would also cause it to pull to one side… this is not happening, it’s not pulling to one side…

Bearingpressfittolerancechart

While driving on the highway, the steering wheel started wobbling, it seems more pronounced at higher speeds. So, I pulled over to take a look at the front wheels, maybe it’s a rock stuck in the treads (but usually stuck rocks make a clicking sound)----there are no rock pebbles. There is a burning smell, almost like burning rubber coming from the wheel well but the tires look fine, no signs of rubbing. I looked at the inner part of the tires to see if it’s rubbing against something, some suspension component perhaps: nope, looks all good. I reckon if there’s rubbing I would probably feel and hear it inside the car. The burning smell seems to be coming from the passenger front wheel well.

By reviewing the table in our Axis ball bearing Catalog, note that the appropriate fits are a k5 shaft fit of .7875”-.7878” and a J7 housing fit of 1.850”-1.851”. Of course, this is only one example. For your application, you’ll need to have a general idea about what the fits should be beforehand. Once you know if you’re looking for an interference, clearance, or transition fit, the catalog can give specific dimensions based on the inside and outside diameters of the bearing in question.

concur w/the above ideas, more likely some kind of brake problem. My own diy’er experience w/bad wheel bearings is that heat or steering wheel wobbling aren’t the symptoms you first notice. What you notice first is a sound, a sort of growling sound, that gets louder the faster you go. It sounds sort of like when you drive over a road with a rough-textured surface. Often the wheel bearing sound gets worse when turning too, when turning in the other direction from the side the growling is coming from.

One other reason I suspect the wheel bearings is because: If I drive the car after it has been parked for a day, the symptoms don’t appear until after a some 10 minutes of driving…

Bearingtolerancechartpdf

I hadn’t planned on gravity bleeding all 4 sides but I discovered that it had been leaking brake fluid from the last time I tried to diagnosis the problem. This was my first time bleeding brakes and I did it using the gravity method. It worked out better than I expected. It was fairly quick too, about 10 minutes per side of dripping. I think I replaced a lot more brake fluid than I needed to but I wasn’t concerned.

With a loose fit, bearings will creep – the unintended movement from or within their mounting place – or become damaged. A loose fit can also lead to a cracked raceway from lack of support to the inner or outer ring. When a fit is too tight, the bearing will experience a drastic loss in efficiency, operating temperatures will climb, and ambient noise increases.

As the name implies, a transition fit is somewhere between the two described above. Either a clearance or interference fit may occur depending on the actual sizes of the bearing bore and shaft, or outer ring and housing. The resulting fit will be dependent on the tolerances of two points of contact – either the bearing bore and the shaft or the housing and bearing O.D.

Sounds to me like you have a dragging brake caliper combined with an uneven rotor. If I’m right, then your impression is correct - something quite literally is “holding it back and letting it go.”

Bearingfits to shafts and housings PDF

Over the next couple of days, I observe that the car kind of “lurches” while creeping at very slow speeds. It also feels like there’s a kind of drag and release against the car… like something is holding it back and letting it go. It’s subtle but I can feel it at slow speeds.

You were all right, it was the calipers. In your experience, you knew it was the calipers. My reasoning led me to wheel bearings but I’m an amateur DIY’er.

Imagine you are installing a bearing in an electric motor application. What type of shaft and housing fit do you need? Let’s look at the application specifics first. In this situation, your inner ring will rotate, the applied load direction will be constant, and the outer ring is stationary.

I replaced the calipers today, it took a full week to get the part from RockAuto–I ordered Raybesto’s “Opti-Cal” line, it’s a brand new part rather than remanufactured (I chose it because I’ve had good results with Raybestos Advanced Tech brake pads.)

A clearance fit, or slip fit, always enable clearance between the bearing bore and shaft, or outer ring and housing. Installation is generally easy because of the added clearance. If the fit is too loose, you can run into problems where a bearing can creep or spin, either on the shaft or inside the housing, especially when vibration is present. This spinning will generate heat and result in premature bearing failure.

Bearingpressfitcalculator

Your steering wheel wobbling? That’s intermittent pulling to one side. By the time the high side of the rotor rolls around again, you’ve reacted to the steering wheel wobble and pulled the car back to straight. If you were only a little bit less competent a driver you’d have your diagnosis by now.

Lift 1 tire off ground with jack. Put on parking brake. Idle motor in drive and listen to right side, than left. If ur lucky only 1 wheel will rumble.

Keep in mind that might be a sticking caliper or a failing brake hose at that corner. Internal failure can act like a check valve and not let the caliper release. It’s a 10 year old car, FWIW, I had the first brake hose failure on my truck at 7 years.

It might be a small pull…but maybe not. Depends on how sticky the caliper is but the symptoms you just posted scream “brake caliper dragging”

Thanks for the tip, I inspected the rotors with my fingers and it felt smooth just like the other side. I think the rotors and pads are fine. If not, well it’s another fun project.

I’m not recommended this, but if you decide to replace the rotors for some reason, be sure to clean them thoroughly with hot water/soap before installing. They are coated with an anti-rust chemical, and forgetting to clean it off is the source of quite a few problems reported here.

If you have an IR thermometer, compare the difference in temperature between the passenger side front wheel and the driver side front wheel after a 5-10 minute drive at highway speeds. If you don’t, very carefully touch the wheel with your finger near the lugnuts to compare - but be warned, it might hurt if what I think is wrong is actually wrong.

It seems to me that if a caliper is sticking and not fully releasing that a pull would be more likely when the brakes were not being applied. Braking would even out the braking and tend to eliminate or reduce a pull.

While not as common of a factor, bearing and housing materials are also relevant when determining correct fits. Aluminum will expand more than steel will, necessitating different fits, even if all other variables remain the same. Before beginning the selection process, we’ll discuss further generalities. Let’s take a look.

I removed the calipers to reinstall and lube the guide pins, it was difficult to remove which is consistent with stuck calipers. Then I pumped the brake pedals to push the caliper piston out, and once out it was IMPOSSIBLE to push it back in even with a lot of effort and that caliper piston push-in tool.

Selecting the correct bearing fit will minimize failures. Correcting the fit can also be very difficult, depending on the application. Typically this will require an entire teardown to access both the shaft and housing. Fixing an issue like this in the field can be next to impossible. Bearing fits are not glamorous, but getting them right will save you from frustrating repairs.

bearing