What about the rods, should I replace those as well? http://www.mcmaster.com/#6112k45/=14m108h https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110300004660/?CategorySpec=00000042688%3A%3Aa%0900000028941%3A%3A8%0900000042718%3A%3Aa Something else?

Split bearingpillow block

Moline’s Split E 1000 Bearings come ready to install as we ship them pre-assembled, adjusted, sealed, and pre-lubricated, leaving no potential for failure due to dirt or dust. This helps lower the overall cost of the product, as no additional downtime is required for adjustment, cleaning, or lubrication. We also offer a pre-assembled Split E 1000 Cartridge, allowing easy replacement without removing the housing.

Worth a mention to ensure the orientation of the bearings is correct. It mentions it in the manual that they should all follow the same pattern it you reverse them it could be the cause of the noise people are getting. My Y carriage can be slightly noisy but nothing to make me want to replace the bearings.

What options would be optimal: Material: bearing steel or 440C stainless steel Heat Treated: Induction Hardened (or not hardened) Surface finish: None, hard chrome, low temp black chrome Shaft Fits Tolerance: g6 or h5 Type: PSFJ or PSFU

Worth a mention to ensure the orientation of the bearings is correct. It mentions it in the manual that they should all follow the same pattern it you reverse them it could be the cause of the noise people are getting. My Y carriage can be slightly noisy but nothing to make me want to replace the bearings.

Coopersplit bearingCatalogue

Definitely G6, bearing steel with induction hardening. I am undecided on the hard chrome. It does make it a harder surface then hardened steel alone. But I understand it is already plenty hard as standard. So it may be more about aesthetics. Unless I can find a reason not to I would go with hard chrome because I tend to over do things.

I'm not sure myself, but I am willing to bet the jump from the standard chinese LM8UU bearings to the $5 Misumi bearings are a huge jump, while going from $5 to $20 is a much smaller jump. For me it was just a matter of not wanting to worry about it any more, and I was (perhaps some would say foolishly) willing to throw money at the problem and make it go away.

I would have also upgraded the rods at the same time but there was a 4 day lead time and I didn't want to delay my build. I don't have any reason to complain about stock rods. But I still may eventually try the Misumi rods in the interest of experimentation.

I used the Misumi bearings in my initial build based on the reports of rattling, defective and unsmooth bearings I encountered in my research. So I don't personaly have any basis to compare them to the stock bearings. But I am very happy with the Misumi. From time to time there is a resonance that will get a rattle out of them. But it is extremetly rare and very brief.

I would have also upgraded the rods at the same time but there was a 4 day lead time and I didn't want to delay my build. I don't have any reason to complain about stock rods. But I still may eventually try the Misumi rods in the interest of experimentation.

How many rows of balls do the SKF bearings have? The picture shows what looks like 8 but that may just be a stock picture.

Here is a ton of info on rods from Misumi, I may try the LTBC coating: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/5103-ultimaker-black-edition?page=3

Split bearingtypes

Here is a ton of info on rods from Misumi, I may try the LTBC coating: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/5103-ultimaker-black-edition?page=3

When it comes to replacement nozzles it's a simple decision. But when it comes to LM8UU replacement bearings I've seen dozens and dozens of recommendations. If I'm looking for bearings replacement instead of IGUS what would the best choice be? http://www.mcmaster.com/#61205K75 - $20 https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110300026540/?ProductCode=LMU-N8 - $5 https://folgertech.com/products/12-x-lm8uu-4-x-608zz-2-x-624zz-bearing-kit-prusa-i3-rework-reprap-3d-printer - $10 for 12 http://www.vxb.com/SM8sG-P-8mm-Slide-Bush-Linear-Miniature-Motion-p/kit19753.htm - $20 Something else?

Definitely G6, bearing steel with induction hardening. I am undecided on the hard chrome. It does make it a harder surface then hardened steel alone. But I understand it is already plenty hard as standard. So it may be more about aesthetics. Unless I can find a reason not to I would go with hard chrome because I tend to over do things.

In terms of upgrades how much of a benefit do you guys think upgrading just the bearings would be vs upgrading the bearings and rods?

Well, thanks to the 30% Misumi discount I decided to order the rods and bearings. I look forward to seeing what kind of difference it makes.

I am also considering changing out the rods as well, but I am nervous about getting the lengths messed up or having to cut it, which I really don't want to do.

Split bearingSKF

Definitely G6, bearing steel with induction hardening. I am undecided on the hard chrome. It does make it a harder surface then hardened steel alone. But I understand it is already plenty hard as standard. So it may be more about aesthetics. Unless I can find a reason not to I would go with hard chrome because I tend to over do things.

Our Split E 1000 products use only genuine Timken® Enhanced DEE Tapered Roller Bearings with the highest industry load ratings, double-extended inner race, and case-hardened rollers and races. Made from vacuum-degassed steel, this gives the rollers and races added life while providing superior load and speed characteristics. The unique arrangement of Timken’s rollers and races allows it to handle slight angular shaft misalignment and have high radial and thrust load capacities.

Also for what its worth, Misumi just gave me 30% off on all its eligible products for 30 days, since I signed up a new customer account. Now the $50 cost is reduced to $35 for all 10 bearings. That makes it very compelling to me even if I am not having any current problems.

I'm not sure myself, but I am willing to bet the jump from the standard chinese LM8UU bearings to the $5 Misumi bearings are a huge jump, while going from $5 to $20 is a much smaller jump. For me it was just a matter of not wanting to worry about it any more, and I was (perhaps some would say foolishly) willing to throw money at the problem and make it go away.

I'm not sure myself, but I am willing to bet the jump from the standard chinese LM8UU bearings to the $5 Misumi bearings are a huge jump, while going from $5 to $20 is a much smaller jump. For me it was just a matter of not wanting to worry about it any more, and I was (perhaps some would say foolishly) willing to throw money at the problem and make it go away.

Split bearingsizes

Well I like to over do things but not to the point of black chrome! Everyone has a limit i guess. True, especially since it's cosmetic only.

Our Split E 1000 Spherical Roller Bearings come in multiple housing styles including 2-Bolt Pillow Blocks and 4-Bolt Pillow Blocks. All housings come in our standard painted finish, but Custom Colors, Powder Coating, Stainless Steel Powder Coating, Nickel Plating, Epoxy Coatings, and Teflon Coatings can be quoted upon request.

They slide with much less resistence than the stock bearings because they to not have a seal. The stock bearings have a platic seal that causes friction on the rods and they do not move freely. For instance, gravity is not enough to pull a smoth rolling(non defective) stock bearings off the rod with the rod held vertically. But the Misumi bearings slide off with seemingly no resistence. I speculate that this decreased ressitence may allow for higher travel speeds before the steppers miss a step.

Split bearingCatalogue

Definitely G6, bearing steel with induction hardening. I am undecided on the hard chrome. It does make it a harder surface then hardened steel alone. But I understand it is already plenty hard as standard. So it may be more about aesthetics. Unless I can find a reason not to I would go with hard chrome because I tend to over do things.

In terms of upgrades how much of a benefit do you guys think upgrading just the bearings would be vs upgrading the bearings and rods?

In terms of upgrades how much of a benefit do you guys think upgrading just the bearings would be vs upgrading the bearings and rods?

So for the Misumi rods: https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302634310/?Inch=0&CategorySpec=00000042688%3A%3Aa%0900000028941%3A%3A8%0900000042718%3A%3Aa%0900000042685%3A%3Aa

I don't mind the estimated cost, but I am not sure if its worth the risk of changing out all the rods and getting the lengths slightly screwed up or if you are going to buy nice new bearings but using it on the original rods wouldn't make sense.

I am actually not trying to solve any problems. My bearings doesn't make any noise and my prints are coming out perfect. The only reason why I was considering upgrading the bearings is because when I first installed the bearings in my MK2, one of the bearings had several of the little steel balls come out. So I know at least one of the bearings isn't 100% operational.

Split bearingsize chart

Worth a mention to ensure the orientation of the bearings is correct. It mentions it in the manual that they should all follow the same pattern it you reverse them it could be the cause of the noise people are getting. My Y carriage can be slightly noisy but nothing to make me want to replace the bearings.

How many rows of balls do the SKF bearings have? The picture shows what looks like 8 but that may just be a stock picture.

Split bearinghousing

Has anyone bought the Misumi bearings? I am considering changing out all 10 bearings and I just wanted to know if it was worth the $50 expense.

Ready to place an order? Have questions about our Split E1000 Spherical Roller Bearings? We’re here to help. Give us a call or drop us a line!

Also for what its worth, Misumi just gave me 30% off on all its eligible products for 30 days, since I signed up a new customer account. Now the $50 cost is reduced to $35 for all 10 bearings. That makes it very compelling to me even if I am not having any current problems.

Here is a ton of info on rods from Misumi, I may try the LTBC coating: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/5103-ultimaker-black-edition?page=3

What options would be optimal: Material: bearing steel or 440C stainless steel Heat Treated: Induction Hardened (or not hardened) Surface finish: None, hard chrome, low temp black chrome Shaft Fits Tolerance: g6 or h5 Type: PSFJ or PSFU

They definitely have 8 glorious rows. The application note document from SKF for it's bearings refer to it as a "precision instrument" and they certainly feel that way.

When I assembled my MK2, I understood that image to tell me to ensure there was a line of balls directly above the Y-carriage. Was there something more implied? I did not see anything suggesting a particular direction the bearing should be installed. Did I miss something?

https://d17kynu4zpq5hy.cloudfront.net/igi/prusa3d/RnqacYNhS1NQNpHl Interesting, I wonder why this isn't specified for the x and z axis?