Since parts or assemblies often require a specific grease type, you’ll need to keep several types on hand. That means you have to read the labels carefully and pay attention to what you are working on.

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Base oils are categorized by the ISO rating or base weight. For example, the ISO rating for 30 weight oil is ISO 100. Here are base oil ratings and their intended use:

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Polyurea does not mix well with soaps either, so it is probably a good idea to stay away from polyurea grease unless it is required for your application.

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Jefferson Bryant has been a full-time automotive journalist since 2003. He has written countless how-to articles, nine books, and built several award-winning vehicles.

Yes, assembly lube is a grease. It comes in varying thicknesses from syrupy liquid to heavy paste. Liquid assembly lube goes on cleanly and stays in place. Paste lube works fine too, but it tends to thicken and dry out over time. If a new engine build might sit for a while, liquid lube would be the better option.

Dielectric grease is a non-soap formula thickened with silica. It helps seal connections and prevent corrosion on high voltage electronic components. Another use is on spark plug boots to protect and seal the plugs from corrosion and keep the boots from sticking to the plugs.

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You might see an instruction manual for a part specify a Type 1, Type 2, or Type 3 grease. This doesn’t indicate the formulation of the grease, but the thickness. Here are the thicknesses for the most common automotive greases. And yes, these food ratings are the official consistency units used in the oil and grease industry:

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Want to look like the Tin Man? Open a can of good ol’ anti-seize. Anti-seize is formulated to lubricate threads, bushings, and sleeves so they don’t gall or otherwise seize in place. Anti-seize is especially good for applications that mate different types of metal together.

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These greases are formulated to work in a wide range of applications. The National Lubricating Grease Institute (NLGI) established the rating system for testing and grading greases. The most common types of grease for automotive use are MP (Multi-purpose), EP (Extreme Pressure), and GP (General Purpose). Grease is further rated as GC (wheel bearings), LB (chassis lube), and GC-LB (wheel and chassis).

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Anti-seize should NEVER BE USED on fasteners for cylinder heads, connecting rods, main bearing caps, and other high-torque applications. That goes quadruple for wheel studs!!

Dielectric grease should not be used on electrical components where arcing could occur, like switches and inside a distributor cap. The high heat of an electrical arc will turn the silicone in dielectric grease into silicon carbide. It’s the second hardest substance on earth after diamonds and is incredibly conductive. Use it on a switch and it won’t switch anymore.

Some grease components do not react well to other components. Some interact so poorly that you would be better off not greasing a part at all. Mixing some incompatible greases together can even form rocks. We are pretty sure that tiny little rocks in something like your ball joints are a bad thing.

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The thickening agent acts like the egg white in mayonnaise, allowing the base oil to thicken and stabilize. Agents are typically a metallic soap such as lithium, aluminum, sodium, or calcium. Non-soap thickeners include calcium sulfonate, silica, and PTFE (Teflon). Thickener makes up three to five percent of the total mixture.

Additives are added during the emulsion process. Common additives are rust inhibitors, anti-wear agents, and friction reducers. Other additives include waxes, esters, and whole host of chemicals that end in “amine”, “onate”, and “azole,” as well as dyes and stabilizers.

We dive deeper (not literally, of course) into dielectric grease in this article: What is Dielectric Grease & Why (& Where) Should You Use It?

The main offender is polyurea grease. For example, a grease thickened with lithium and one thickened with polyurea cannot be mixed. One agent will cause the other to lose the bond with the base oil—it will literally run off a part or out of a joint. If you have ever put a new tube of grease in a grease gun without cleaning it first and see the new grease come out more liquid than grease, you have seen this happen.

Mityvac brake bleeder features a swivel air inlet with a quick disconnect to keep the air hose from twisting, reducing the risk of overturning the unit during ...

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These C sized bearings are designed to keep your string dead center in the bearing. This adds to your spin time, as it reduces the friction you get when the ...

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Grease is a lubricant made with a mineral or vegetable oil whipped into an emulsion with a thickening agent, typically soap, to create a semi-solid paste. The type of oil and soap yield specific properties that determine the use of that grease.

Some additives act as lubricants. Examples include ZDDP (aka zinc) molybdenum disulfide (moly), powdered graphite, and even lard. They all are boundary lubricants that provide a thin film layer on rough surfaces.

The word grease conjures negative images of dirty dishes, stained clothes, and oily food. In the automotive world, grease is the first and often only line of defense against premature failure and wear of your vehicle’s joints, bushings, bearings, and seals.. There are many types of automotive grease, and making sure you use the right one in the right place can be tough to figure out.

Keeping your vehicles, boats, trailers, and door hinges well-lubed is critical, make sure you give the grease you use more than a second thought, it really does matter what you use. Remember multi-purpose doesn’t mean EVERY purpose.