The top cover of bore gauge box has soft foam lining, from experience I've found the easiest most convenient way to set gauge or 'hold' micrometer is just sit it on the foam.

101 ÷ 28 → Quotient of 3 and a remainder of 17. Now that we have all the numbers we need, let's piece together our answer:.

Before making any decisions on parts, you will need the stock specifications, it's hard to judge clearances between parts when you don't know what exactly they should be so get service manual or technical data manual

Going back to piston measurement, the sides of piston are removed for gas to flow through transfer ports (remember, it's a two stroke -picture of side of piston) There isn't anything to wear the cylinder so it's most likely the 0.0024" was the standard clearance when bike was made..................... but.............. the pistons show no wear so they have probably been swapped for new ones and bores may possibly have been honed for new rings will 'bed in' meaning original clearance was less than 0.0024" ???

It’s possible to have tight wheel bearings that do not make noise when the wheels are off the ground. Apply the weight to them and it’s a different matter.

A former co-worker did a front brake job on a mid '90s Buick LeSabre, including replacing the rubber caliper bushings. He forgot to install one of the bushings and sent the car out the door. Needless to say, the customer experienced a loud clunk every time she stepped on the brakes, so she took it to a Buick dealership, which used a “chassis ear” to find the glaringly obvious problem. They charged the customer $120 per hour to use the “chassis ear” on the car for two hours, then charged $130 to install a $2 bushing in the caliper (a five minute job). How they missed that problem installing the microphones is beyond me, why they had to test drive the car for two hours is even further beyond me, and why the customer didn’t bring the car right back to us is also beyond me, but not as much as this tale of either inordinate ignorance on the dealership’s part, or a complete and utter ripoff. All told, we had to reimburse the customer about $400 to have the Buick dealership perform a diagnosis that any reasonable mechanic could have diagnosed in the parking lot and fixed in ten minutes for $20 or less.

I’m not saying that’s what wrong with your’s, but at 217K it’s worth taking a look at. Those mounts could be worn out or breaking down.

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Bearingbore sizechart

From the numbers, it's easy to see that the top of cylinder is close to danger zone, the middle is well into catastrophic failure region and the bottom has 'strange' numbers which are actually easily explained.

Sometimes these “whats making the noise” type problems have been resolved by using the “magic ear” (microphones that clamp on components).

Bearingborediameter calculation

It can be a humming noise or a rumble. In my experience the noise of a bad bearing will decrease when the weight of the car is off of it.

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As previously stated, 'we' are looking for the largest diameter of the piston so in this case it is inverted and measuring point (usually 5~10mm from base) this particular bike uses 26mm from base of piston. Very surprisingly (in view of age and mileage of bike) the actual size of piston is in specification, 2.359 and a few ten-thousandths of an inch ( I no longer have micrometer reading to 1/10,000" but it isn't really needed - most of the time)

What is Bore sizein pipe

Have you checked the CV joints for problems? They typically pop and click when they go bad, but they can also make roaring sounds.

I had no idea that a “magic ear” was a thing - though I’d considered a low tech equivalent - just running a long piece of vacuum hose out & under attached to my stethoscope. I guess its not as nuts as I thought.

It would respond to steering the way your’s does. I didn’t argue when they decided to replace the bearing. They were nice about it when that didn’t fix the problem and worked with me on the total repair bill when they aligned the engine and the noise stopped. I guess a mount was not isolating the engine and its vibration from the vehicle’s (Dodge Sedan) body.

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With the numbers in and from many years experience, the motor would have had a catastrophic failure first time it was run hard, piston rattling around would have broken off the bottom part and possible damaged other components

I have a '95 Caravan, FWD It has what I would call classic wheel bearing noise. Get it up to 45mph or so and it sounds like there’s a small engine airplane flying along with you. Turn left the noise goes away. Turn right, the noise gets worse. It sounds to me like it is in the front. (This is noise only - it doesn’t come with any vibration). Both rears had some contamination, a little play and a little noise so I just went ahead and replaced those - not having high hopes that that was the source of the noise because they were bad, but not that bad. The problem is that neither of the fronts show any signs of a bad bearing upon inspection. There is no play in the wheels, and they aren’t noisy when you spin them. Nothing is loose or rubbing. The tires are in VGC, and I moved them around with no change. The fronts bearings are the sealed hub type, and expensive, so I’m not going to replace them on a guess. The van has 217K on it & the fronts were done at some point, but it was so long ago I can’t remember - i.e. they could be due. But what else would act this way? And what might be the best way to find out?

The wood is needed because the cylinder spigot protrudes through cylinder and makes it unstable on a 'small base', much easier to use the flat gasket face plus you can measure close to bottom of cylinder without gauge contacting bench (and messing up readings)

One way to check for rough bearings is, with the tire off the ground, place your hand on the strut spring. Now slowly rotate the tire. If the bearing is rough, it sometimes can be felt in strut spring.

Borediameter formula

Just so you know where you are, it's common practice to measure as X and Y, the X is side to side, the Y is front to back. Your also measuring from the top to the bottom, ABC, Top Mid Bot, etc (whatever floats your boat)

To set up bore gauge, you need to know size of bore or size of piston. (2.360") In this case I had piston which was still in specification so didn't re-set micrometer plus it will give a direct reading of the actual clearance between cylinder and piston. (actual piston size closer to 2.3595")

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Borediameter bearing meaning

From my activities in many on-line motorcycle groups I've seen a number of people posting things are 'worn out' or wrong parts fitted because they can rock or move top of piston in cylinder bore after cylinder head has been removed

Pistons are machined so the largest mass of metal has room to expand and thinner sections (which don't expand as much) are different diameters. The sides of pistons where gudgeon (piston) pin fit, having more material then the thinner sections of skirt are also smaller than the 'nominal' diameter. It may be easier to picture a piston as being barrel shaped top to bottom and kind of 'pear' shaped looking down from top. The reasons are also linked to the way piston is 'pressed' into front or back of cylinder due to the connecting rod angle and direction of rotation of crankshaft

Sorry oldschool - I thought my initial mention of it spoke for itself. I should have added that I am going to rig up a chunk of hose to my stethoscope.

Suzuki also made a T250 which looked pretty much identical and a year later a T350 so make sure you have correct specifications

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If anyone wants to do the math, just add the clearances to the piston size of 2.359"(+3 or 4 or 5 ten thousandths of inch, take your pick from micrometer picture - LOL) to get actual bore size

What is bore sizein bearing

The majority of video's or tutorials will tell you to use a micrometer stand but I've found it really difficult to keep gauge contact points between micrometer anvils, the contacts are rounded and about 3/32", the micrometer anvils, 1/4" diameter. The hardened/carbide faces don't want to stay in place (it is possible but why make life deliberately difficult?)

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Borediameter measuring instruments

The bore gauge has a range of only 0.050" measuring in ten-thousandths of inch. The contact end of gauge is about 2" long so a contact tip is needed to reach 2.360", the tip is for 2.400" bore so gauge will be compressed at least 0.040" (nicely within range)

I’ve experienced front bearing failure and noise that could not be felt by spinning the unloaded wheel or rocking the wheel at the 0/180 position. It made plenty of noise going down the road, though.

We know gauge is set to piston size and will be taking measurements at top of cylinder 'side to side' and 'front to back' getting a reading of the actual piston clearance. Max allowable is around 0.006", after that things start breaking up very quickly

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The bore gauge doesn't take direct measurements, that is to say, it doesn't tell you the actual bore size, you need a little bit of math later on.

Cylinderbore sizechart

I tried my best to look at all of the suggestions here - and even did ridiculous things with a piece of hose & zip ties while test driving (the poor man’s “magic ear”/extended stethoscope). In the end I couldn’t actually verify for certain that it was the bearing.

You will need a pad and something to write with as your going to make multiple measurements at various points of cylinder. A couple of blocks of wood to hold cylinder off bench are also handy (in my opinion) Personally I prefer to measure cylinders from the top down but some people will invert them and measure from the bottom up (as cylinder is inverted your still going from top to bottom)

During operation (ie, when engine is running) the top of piston is exposed to full heat of combustion which is normally around 7~800f or higher. Aluminium has a very high expansion when heated so at running temperature the piston top expands to 'fill' the cylinder bore (top of piston is probably averaging over 300f ?) This is a two stroke (two cycle) motor, conduction removes heat from top to underside of piston and fresh charge helps cool it and prevent a 'melt down' (mostly)

The flare from flash pretty much obscures the secondary dial (slightly above and to right of '4') It is important as it tells how many full revolutions the primary dial (with long pointer) has made. Picture of gauge set at 'zero' wasn't too difficult to take as I didn't have to worry about sliding out of micrometer anvils (I know, it's 'off by 1/10,000", actual setting is correct.

To accurately make measurements you will need some specialty measuring equipment, in this case, 'cheap' micrometer and bore gauge (I've had and used expensive ones, these do the same job)

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Purpose of this Instructable is to hopefully teach how to measure a cylinder and piston, the correct place to measure a piston and why you find the largest possible diameter.

I’ve heard of the “magic ear,” but never heard it called that. It’s referred to as a “chassis ear” by a lot of mechanics. I’ve never used one, but I have a story.