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This isn't a "cheap" build, but it's far from a "spare no expense build." I don't want to be cheap simply for cheapness sake, but any money saved will sure make the accountant easier to live with.

Not 100%. You need to use a crank key that is only long enough to go through the crank sprocket, since the LT1 damper hub has no keyway.

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Self aligning full rollers like something from Proform with the stock pushrods are a lot cheaper than NSA rockers, guide plates, and new pushrods.

the HOT cam is better than the specs lead you to believe... not only is it good for a laughably underrated 430HP with the fast burn heads and somewhere around 400hp with stock unported vortecs, but it idles smooth at 750 rpm with 15" of vacuum (remember, it was going to be the oem LT4 cam but they couldn't get the emissions where they needed to be so they made a smaller cam for oem installation) and pulls from off idle to 7000rpm... those GM guys knew what they were doing when they designed it, and it's hard to beat the price if you get it as a part of the HOT cam kit under part #12480002, which is $619.97 at Summit as of the time of me typing this. if you can piece together a better combination of parts for less than that, i want to know about it. the self aligning roller rockers fit under stock steel valve covers and are dead quiet, so no one needs to know you have them or why they just got smoked by a car that idles so damn smooth..

The push rod only makes contact with the sides of notch in the guide plate, it doesn't make contact with the bottom of the notch. You're supposed to use the chromemoly pushrods too. There's no more bending/deflection of the pushrod than without a guide plate, it's a pretty tight tolerance between the sides of the notch and the pushrod.

I also like the hot cam, but not the kit. The springs j the kit aren't good for stock lt1 valves. Apparently the lt4 valves are lighter, and the springs are marginal when used with the 1.6s and hot cam on stock lt1 heads, alot of people were having valve control issues. Most recommend going with diff springs now.

I don't doubt the Hot Cam for a street/strip application, that's not this engines goal in life though. Thinking of it as a truck/RV engine might help. I narrowed it down to 3 cams, and after some back and forth with COMP's tech support, decided on one of their XFI grinds, which was already one of my top 3.

you're over thinking this. there is nothing "specific" about rocker arms for the LT engines compared to any other 87 and newer small block, other than having low profile poly locks and rocker bodies that clear the stock centerbolt valve covers. if you run guidplates, you can then run any other 1955 and newer rocker arm. shaft mount rockers are also an option.

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I ran a CC306, lazy lobes but lots of rpms. I ran NSAs and guide plates becuase I was buying PRs and rockers anyways, PRs are cheap, like 70 bucks for trickflows, rockers were close enough in price were it didnt matter, and guideplates were like 40, I cammed it at 108K miles and revved it to 7K everyday, and only rechecked valve lash once, right after the first drive, sold it at like 198K. It literally takes 5 minuted to modify the stock valve covers to get them to fit.

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I haven't heard of self-aligning rockers being a problem before but there has to be a reason why so many hot domestic motors are assembled with guide plates... curious what comes of this thread.

Its not a bend preventer. Its the only thing keeping the rocker on the valve. The rocker is just floating on a bolt. The guideplate prevents the pushrod from going to the side and letting the rocker rotate off the valve tip.

i don't know if they still sell it, but GM used to have a single part number to convert the LT1 to an LT4 that came with the HOT cam, LT4 heads, intake, rockers, gaskets, and about a hundred other little parts to do the swap and have what was essentially their road race spec LT4 for something like $1500.

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i had the GM (actually Crane pieces) 1.6 self aligning roller rockers paired up with the HOT cam kit in the vortec headed 355 that was in my Nova, and they gave me tens of thousands of miles of service, sometimes with a 7400 rpm shift point.. they were the same parts that passed all of GM's durability testing for use in the LT4 engines in 96 Corvettes (actually designed for road racing abuse with the HOT cam) and they put them in the kit with the cam, so they were good enough for me.. the best part was that they fit under the stock centerbolt valve covers so only i had to know they were there..

I ran 7/16th studs but low rpm you probabky don't have much to worry about, if your changing anyways, I'd go 7/16th but I doubt you will need them for low rpm, as stated there really isn't anything special about lt1 rockers, just look for sbc rockers in whatever spec you want and then chop the support wings out of the valve cover with some snips.

Guide plates are there mostly to prevent the pushrod from jumping out of contact with the rocker socket during valve float or if they bend during operation (fairly common at high RPM). They aren't meant to have constant contact with the pushrod. Typically there will be around .005-.006 clearance each side of the pushrod.

BUT, I can't fathom how it does anything useful unless it's in constant contact with the pushrod. If the pushrod bends enough to hit the guide plate then it is probably too late already.

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I discovered going to 7/16" rocker studs opens up tons more options for SBC rocker arms, but guide plates are mandatory for most. Still a lot more affordable than most of the LT specific rockers. Most of the hardened pushrods I've come across are around $90 a set.

Having said that, try looking for SBC pushrods. Many places sell "LT1" pushrods and jack up the price, but they are just plain old SBC hardened pushrods.

The handful of cars I've heard with the hotcam had a quite noticeable lope, I don't think it's much of a sleeper cam, but you can find them used all the time for cheap.

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Seems that the self aligning rocker's alignment tabs often interfere with the locks/retainers on the valve stems, especially if you're using wider locks, or spaced locks.

You're an LT veteran, thoughts on electric water pump and SBC roller timing chain? I've told myself I don't need a roller chain, that I should just keep the OE style link belt chain and gear driven water pump. For the price of an LT roller timing set though, you can just about get an electric water pump and the Cloyes double roller SBC timing set.

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Oh, mis-stabbing a pushrod can and will happen with or without guide plates. The bottom of the pushrod can fall out just fine, and if the engine isn't old and gummy, it can launch the lifter right on out and there goes your oil pressure. Solution: don't float valves and you won't hurt things.

The funny part is, the LT1 crank still has the keyways for both keys, it just has a little 2/3rd-length key in the rear keyway. So it is technically the same as SBC, you just have to remember to remove one and cut the other when using a non-LT1 crank.

As far as electric water pump... run away. I used to be pretty heavy in the Impala SS scene (shows, meets, etc). I wish I had a nickel for every time someone didn't show up in their SS because their electric water pump died and they overheated or worse. Electric water pumps are for scavenging the last 1/2 HP out of a drag engine that only sees 1/4 mile at a time. The newer electric pumps claim they are street-ready, but they just aren't. The stock LT1 pump is a fantastic high volume pump. They only last 60k before they leak, but I have never seen one actually fail to pump.

I ran an ewp and a cloyes double roller, it was cheaper than an aftermarket lt1 chain. I killed an ewp right after installing it and the replacement lasted over 100k miles, sold the car with it, I mainly did it because it was easier to change when it died, 8 bolts and ten minutes. I used a csr pump. An OE replacement chain is a used quite often, Napa used to sell them for like 70. If it's a 96 or up (iirc) and had a crank position sensor, it has to be deleted with a double roller, not a big deal they can just tune it out. Also if you go double roller, some timing covers require clearancing, there are a few diff ones, and I don't remember which ones need it but just take a dremel to it around the crank hole anyways to be safe. A few guys lost motors, because the chain would lightly scrape the timing cover and put a bunch of aluminum in the oil pan.

my Nova ran 8.8 seconds in the 1/8 mile at over 88mph with that cam, smoking the tires all the way thru 1st and crossing the line at the top of 2nd, and i don't think i ever got under 17mpg in a car with 3.70 gears, 26" tall tires, and no overdrive..

So if you're using bee hive springs, and some +0.05 locks to maintain proper installed height on the springs, there's a good chance there's not enough of the valve's stem sticking through the retainer and lock to fit in a SA rocker.

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It's kind of a butterfly effect; larger bump stick requires new springs to maintain open/closed seat pressure. Shims, machining, and/or spacer locks cause alignment or fitment issues with the self aligning part of the SA rockers.

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Of your looking for a decent spring set. I ran the crane double springs, came in a kit for like 120. Part number 10388 or something like that, but Lloyd elliot always had good recommendations for budget drop in springs, I'd shoot him an email once you figure out the cam.

it's in almost constant contact. it's a narrow corridor for the pushrod to pass through, so it literally cant unalign with the rocker.

Dietcoke covered it, the pushrod goes through the slot in the guide plate, which prevents side to side movement of the pushrod.

upgrading to bigger studs isn't necessary for your engine, and the only real benefit of doing that is that you could run big block rocker arms if you wanted to.

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Doing it cheap run whatever you can find used, or stock stuff, I believe a year or two of the LT1s came stock with hardened Pushrods, maybe 95 IIRC.

While this engine will never see a drag strip, on paper it's max torque at 2500, max HP at 4500, it's not a high RPM screamer, it's a near polar opposite of the typical F-body/Vette build.

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Single roller is your friend. If you were spinning fast or had crazy spring pressures, I would suggest a double roller. singles aren't much more than a plain chain. If you don't want to spend the extra bucks, just get a non roller. Do yourself a favor and get the whole set if you don't already have new sprockets. The timing sprockets on LT1s take a little more abuse with the high flow water pump connected directly to it. I had to do an Opti in my 96, and I figured while I was that deep into it I would replace the crank seal, oil pan gasket, and timing set since it had 120k on it. The factory timing chain was still very acceptable so I just replaced it with a Cloyes factory replacement set.

You didn't ask me, but I'll chime in. The LT1 is functionally remarkably similar to an SBC. The rotating assembly between a one-piece rear SBC1 is interchangeable with an SBC2. The only real difference in the cam is the snout for driving the water pump.

The LT4 Hot Cam doesn't offer much more lift than the stock LT1 cam. I'm looking at one of Comp's XFI grinds, with a lot quicker ramp up, and a bit more lift than the Hot Cam. Not that I think SA rockers would kill themselves instantly in my scenario, just that any rockers will be a little more abused than the GM spec'd Hot Cam kits.

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regarding using the HOT cam in a low rpm torque application: when i first put that motor in the Nova, it had the stock TH350 with the stock torque converter and the stock 2.56 gears in the rear end... it still pulled like a beast off the line and i was shifting it out of 1st at about 90mph if i wanted to... then after i put the 3.70 gears and T10 in it, i could start the car in third gear easily with no bucking, lugging, or drama of any kind: it just moved. even started it in 4th gear a couple of times, but that required feathering the clutch and throttle... it's an amazing cam in every way that matters and the price with the kit is all but unbeatable.

Plus the whole cranking it up to 11, and winding the engine out north of 6500 RPM usually warrants the NSA rockers with guide plates too.

Some OE "guide plates" though, are merely a pushrod/rocker installation aide, they don't actually do anything to keep the pushrod located after the rocker is on.

It's not necessarily the rod bending, can also be valve float. In which case, as I'm sure you already know, the cam starts moving faster than the valve can, so the valvetrain goes slack. Without a plate there, it's possible the pushrod could move enough that when the lifter comes back up, it shoves the rod right around the rocker.

A few years ago, modifying ls1 rockers was all the rage, they are 1.7s right? Without crazy RPM or ramp rates, I would worry about the trunions coming apart, plus they are cheap since they are on EVERYTHING.

I've had this engine for over a decade now, fresh block .030 over bore, stroker clearanced, etc. It's been oiled and bagged for at lest 7 or 8 years now. I bought it when LS1s were still silly expensive, and the cheap LSX truck variants weren't as prevalent. It has been "built" in my head and on paper every way you can imagine, but I've never been able to bring myself to spend the cash. It makes me ill to think of what I've got in it and what I've still got to spend on it vs. what I can purchase an iron block 5.3l drop out for now days. Hind sight and what not.

I think if I was wanting to really do this right, and I was changing rockers, I'd want to make sure the contact between the rocker and the valve tip is optimal. This may drive you to a new set of pushrods by itself.

Hot domestic motors use guideplates because they're a cheap way to get more valve lift clearance. The retainers are installed as close to flush with the valve tip so there is room for another little bit of safe lift. SA rockers could easily be engineered to work, but why do that when it costs 27 cents to just slap on some guideplates?