If whoever replaced the CV joint didn't properly torque the axle nut, hammered the crap out of the axle to get it out, or allowed weight onto the bearing before the nut was torqued, the CV job could have caused the bearing to fail.

360/190 UR

The bearing is just a part of the hub component, if we are talking about a car, the hub rotates about the bearing, but it also includes the ...

Yep - could go at any time. And it will destroy a lot of expensive parts if it completely fails. ABS parts and the hub for certain. Probably brake components as well. Wheel could come off.... but that is less likely.

few days later hooked up the flatbed trailer to it to go pick up a non-running motorcycle only 25 miles away - truck had not been moved since i got home from the long trip, mind you - made the trip over, picked up the bike, started home - bearing failure so bad it had to be put on the trailer to make it the last 10 miles home - it no longer wanted to move, and the wheel was sitting at an odd angle.

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I drove on my bad bearing for several months with no ill effects, other than the noise getting louder and more annoying..

Running a bad wheel bearing will run the risk of damaging not only the hub, but the brake rotor, caliper, ABS tone ring and ABS sensor.

My last one chewed up the hub/spindle and discolored some metal from heat. Oh, it also wobbled a little and that tire had more uneven wear than the others.

On mine it was indeed difficult to isolate the bad bearing, had to spin each wheel with a mechanics stethoscope on the strut spring.

2) Does a $585 estimate by the independent garage for parts and labor for replacing the front hub and wheel bearings sound right to you? The dealer quoted $550 parts and labor for just the bearing replacement; an additional $176 for the hub parts if those are necessary, and an additional $294 labor plus more $$$ in parts for the housing if that's necessary.

339/190 AR

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Last time I checked, a new ABS sensor was almost $200 from the dealer. A new hub is in the neighborhood of $130 and so on. I've had customers that had other shops tell them it was ok to run it a bit longer but what people don't tell you is when it will finally grenade. As a mechanic, I don't have a crystal ball that tells me when it's going to break so I always tell the customer, the sooner you do it, the better it is for your peace of mind and your vehicle.

center of the wheel - where the axle nut would be - and/or, between the center cap and lug nuts - any heat created from friction in the wheel bearing will transfer out to the wheels in as little as 5-10 miles if they are getting bad enough

1) A service rep at our local Subaru dealer claimed driving on the bad bearing longer could cause damage to the hub and housing, resulting in a more costly repair. True or not? Who is right - the dealer or the good reliable indie garage mechanic? Note that however many parts need to be replaced or whatever the labor, the dealer costs 2x as much as our very capable independent garage.

Alakazam 326/190

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Miraidon ex 358190

I was in the same situation and kept driving until it was real bad, Like someone else said it damaged the hub which added $150 to the cost of the job. The inner race spun on the hub and wore a grove in it and ruined it. Do it now or the repair will just get more expensive

YMMV, but I have driven thousands of miles on noisy wheel bearings. But most of our driving is around town. If I were doing mostly hway driving, then I would get them replaced sooner rather than later. If local driving, do it at your leisure within a few months. just my .02

1995 Dadge Ram 1500 (shortbox with a topper on it) - made a 600 mile trip, towing a trailer, drop the trailer off 30 mins from home. on the way home noticed a very slight growly noise...told the other half about it, he looked into what it would cost to get a new hub (easier) for it...never ordered it tho...

Whoever does the job should have the hub in hand in case it's needed. If there are any signs the inner race has been spinning on the hub, the hub must be replaced.

342/190 SR

If the wheel bearing is noisy but tight the chances for damaging the hub or the housing are low, in my opinion. If you drive on it and it gets loose and you don't notice, those other parts might take some damage. If there is any damage the hub will be the item damaged, most likely, you would have to do some really extreme stuff to damage the housing.

My '03 LL bean left-front wheel bearing failed at 75k? 80K? 100K? I forget (thread is here somewhere) and I drove on it a looooong time with it making noise. It never got loose, never got hot, hub and housing were fine. Of course if it got loose I would probably notice and so I would drive on it longer than I'd be willing to let my wife.

Ditto 309/190

If you are certain of which one it is, next time you drive it somewhere, when you stop, check the center of the wheel with your hand - carefully - is it hot? or is it cool to the touch? if it is cool, you should be fine for a while yet.

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Getting hot is the deal breaker. Have i ever seen a subaru loose a wheel because of a bad bearing ,no . Have i seen it in dozens of other cars, yes.

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heartless, do you mean check the center of the outside tire tread (which will be warm anyway) or the center of tire around the hub?

On the Dodge Ram pickup however - when that one started making noise, it only lasted about 60 miles before it wanted to seize up, and the wheel was wobbling...was not a pretty sight at all.

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345/190 SR

Based on an experience with my WRX, I'd say wheelbearings are only gonna last a few days at best after they get loud and 'crunchy' sounding. I dunno how long they could 'whir', I had the A/C on high last summer, and the radio!

had a guy tell me he drove a hummer that had 500k miles on i with a bad wheel bearing thousands of miles till it caught on fire! ahaha:Flame:

Bad things can happen, but this really can't happen with this car. It can get very loose and wobble and pretty much chew the axle right into the bearing races and the housing, expensive and possible loss of control, so something to be avoided, but as you grind to a halt the wheel will still be attached.

335/190 SSR

When you reach out to check - assume the wheel center will be hot and use caution accordingly - if it isnt hot, you are good. barely luke warm is ok, but would be thinking about it pretty soon - the hotter it is, the worse shape it is in.

as far as cost - where you live has a lot to do with that - silicon vally, you might be right in line - i had a rear bearing done on my wagon that only cost me about $250 - BUT - I live in northern Wisconsin - major difference.

The wrr-wrr-wrr-wrr-wrr sound my wife and I heard when driving on curves over 25-30 mph when curving right and left, uphill or downhill, powered or unpowered, which seemed to be coming from the front of the car, was caused by a bad wheel bearing, apparently the Left Front. It could be entirely unrelated, but it happened not long after replacing the axle after the R Front CV boot blew open after it was hit hard by some road debris on the highway + wheels aligned.

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Our very good independent garage mechanic recommended about a month or two ago to drive on it a little longer, so that we could be 100% sure which wheel the noise is coming from. Seems clear right now it's the Left Front. He said it wouldn't cause any further harm driving on it longer. It is getting progressively louder to the point where we can hear extra noise in the background even when driving straight.

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