En general, la mayoría de los fabricantes de automóviles recomiendan que se reemplace la correa de distribución cada 80.000 a 160.000 kilómetros, dependiendo del modelo y la marca del automóvil. Además, algunos fabricantes recomiendan el reemplazo de la correa de distribución cada 5 a 7 años, incluso si el kilometraje del vehículo es menor.

I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK

La correa de repartición es una de esas piezas que cuando se rompe puede causar verdaderos destrozos, llegando incluso a terminar con la vida del motor y ocasionando una de las averías más costosas que podamos tener en nuestro carro.

I'm new to 3D printing - recieved my i3 MK3S kit and am building it now. I'm at the Y-Axis step and thankfully came across many bearings discussions. I've paused building for now until I wrap my head around this issue. My bearings are labelled 'LMU8' (which apparently are the Misumi upgrade that many people mention?)

hola tengo un chevrolet prisma ltz 2015 con 51.000 km hay que.cambiar correas de distribucion yo creo que si . Pero ustedes son los espertos porfa gracias … no se nada de mecanica

If I had it to do all over, I would degrease and put white lithium into the bearing. As far as packing or not packing, I would have to do more research, but I'm leaning toward not packing, (I did plan on "injecting" a heathy amount under the "cage". Also IMHO, I would think any high temperature grease, would work. But I'm also not a grease expert, and don't know for sure. I looked at several different options at the automotive store. You might ask one of them.

My technique is to mark the run of the bearings, on the outside of the shell, with sharpie indellible pen, ~then  I squeeze lube into the bearing from one end, then put my finger over the other end, and insert a smooth rod into the bearing, this causes the grease to be distributed into the bearing tracks.  I repeat with the remaining brearings.

From here, it branches out into different opinions on how to go about it. Various points and questions below, not in any particular order.

So in short, love my printer. Haven't seen another one that I think is better, only ones that are cheaper or more expensive. They might be better, they might be worse. Prusa is the printer for me, BUT if I was doing it all over again, I would clean the bearings in IPA, mineral spirits, or carb cleaner as all of these I have around the house right now. I then would put white lithium in the bearing if I want to keep things stock (which I like doing). If you had experience putting a printer together (which I didn't until the Prusa), I would set these aside and put in the igus bearings from the start, knowing what I know now. But I don't like upgrading until I've experienced things, and learned some lessons. I will be the first to admit, I'm still learning things almost daily with the Prusa, and I love it because of this.

My intention, as of this minute and second, is to continue what I am doing, and if any of the bearings do fly south, I'll probably order stock replacements but err on the side of caution and be sure that they are properly and adequately lubed on replacement.

Pero si el uso es menos frecuente, puedes varias este periodo de tiempo. Recuerda analizar los datos en conjunto con los kilometrajes recorridos.

Esperamos sea de ayuda nuestro comentario y recuerda que en Autolab contamos con el equipo técnico especializado para poder diagnosticar y realizar reparaciones. Agenda tu cita 4842661.

Autorizo guardar mis datos para futuros comentarios de acuerdo a la Política de Datos Personales, las Condiciones del Servicio así como recibir comunicaciones a través de los Canales de Contacto.

Buen día Luis Fernando, Para Autolab es muy satisfactorio poder brindar respuesta a las inquietudes. En tu vehículo el control de mínima es electrónico y es gestionado por la computadora dependiendo de ciertas variables tomadas desde los sensores. Lo primero que debemos de realizar es la comprobación de fallas y lectura de datos con el escáner y determinar si es una falla electrónica en alguno de los sensores que intervienen en la gestión electrónica. Para tu caso en particular nos iríamos por tres fallas. Como dices que solo falla después que el vehículo lleva un tiempo de estar andando diría que es: 1. La válvula de control de mínima que al calentarse empiezan a fallar los motores que la componen. 2. El sensor de la posición de la mariposa al calentarse falla su resistencia interna y varia la posición por ende pierde la posición mínima. 3. Falla mecánica en la guaya de acelerador o el mecanismo que hace que se varié la posición de la mariposa. Además se debe de revisar elementos tales como bujías, cables de bujías, filtros de aire y combustible para asegurar la correcta combustión, consumo de combustible y potencia del motor. Espero sea de ayuda el comentario y recuerda que en Autolab contamos con el equipo técnico necesario para realizar el mantenimiento de tu vehículo. Comunícate con nosotros al 484 2661, 322 3458360 o ingresa a http://www.autolab.com.co y un asesor de servicio te brindara información sobre los servicios de sincronización y diagnósticos.

If the bearing is mis aligned, it should be taken if the smooth rod, and re inserted carefully in the correct orientation, Linear bearings are not intended to rotate, only to run along the smooth rods.

I would caution against using heavy greases like white lithium or "bearing" type greases in your linear bearings. And I'm not a fan of grease period in linear bearings.

Some are saying, often convincingly, that the pre-lube is no good and that the world will come burning down unless you carefully remove it prior to assembly and re-pack the bearings with Superlube.

Ten presenta que la duración que nos indica el manual será solamente una guía, pues hay que considerar las condiciones en que normalmente conducimos, cuando lo hacemos más frecuentemente por ciudad la correa de repartición sigue funcionando en los semáforos y en los trancones, por lo que se recomienda acortar ese kilometraje al menos un 20% a la hora de realizar el cambio de correa.

After about 300 hours of printing since overhaul, the x-axis shows a bit of grime, but nothing terribly bad.  It's certainly better than what the oil looked like with the original rods and bearings.

You want Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2).  I am pretty sure it is the same thing I order in the big canisters (Super Lube 41160 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2)).  The smaller tubes in the first link are more useful in 3d printers.  I have also have had good success with FYSETC 3D Printer Lubricant.

Hola Elizabeth, la correa de distribución se debe cambiar entre los 50.000 y 60.000 kms. Los Nissan siempre tienen cadena de repartición y esta no se cambia hasta que se repara el motor mas o menos después de los 200.000 km.

So far, what I've been doing is to occasionally apply either Prusa lube, Superlube, or lightweight synthetic oil on the rods.  I've had no scoring of the rods, no nasty noises, and no evidence of 'play' or other signs that the bearings are damaged or wearing out.

after assembly there may be a surplus of Lube at the ends of the Smooth Rods, Wipe this off with Disposable paper towels.

My latest printer is a Mk3.9, it re uses the X and Y rods and bearings, off a previous Mk3 and added 10mm rods and bearings for the Z axis.

Others simply grease the rod and run the bearing back and forth, however responses to this method mention that the bearings have a guard on them which keeps the inside grease inside, and outside stuff outside; so greasing via the rods wouldn't work. If you still want to grease the rods, do not grease the threaded one, only the smooth ones.

New bearings will be sent to me soon. I had always washed out the bearings with IPA beforehand. However, I will probably not do that this time but grease and install them directly. I assume that you have not washed out any of your bearings with IPA to date? Or has something changed?Regards Cloud

On the other hand, the folks who say to clean and re-pack can't be stupid either, and their arguments can sound convincing.

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I Think washing with IPA, might be the ultimate assurance of  good lubrication... however... IPA comes in various qualities. IF IPA successfully removes all lubrication, and the IPA is a lower quality solution. it may well contain a significant amount of water, when the alcohol evaporates, it may well leave the water behind. which could lead to rusting...

The Company Line seems to be that the bearings are pre-lubricated and don't need anything else on assembly.  That's the way I assembled it, and also the way I coached someone else who recently assembled one.

Vivir en climas extremos por demasiado frío o calor es otro factor determinante para disminuir el tiempo en que se hace el cambio de correa, también cuando el ambiente es muy polvoriento o húmedo debes ser más cauteloso y revisar el estado de la correa de repartición con más frecuentemente.

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Packed with Superlube (I'll check which one when I get back home -- traveling this weekend).  Printed the packing tool before tear down.

In industrial use, ballscrews and linear bearings are lubricated with lighter weight oils. Granted, these are mostly 100% loss lube systems which would leave puddles of oil on your desktop. But the idea is to prevent stiction. Which refers to the force it takes to overcome all drag to get something moving. Like every time the machine reverses direction.

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Hola Julio, según el fabricante la correa de repartición de tu vehículo se debe cambiar cada 50.000 km. Te dejamos el enlace del programa de mantenimiento de tu carro. Esperamos sea de tu ayuda nuestro comentario.

There are at least two SuperLube greases, one of which is too thick for Linear Bearings. So you could actually do a disservice to the printer using the wrong one.

Buenas noches tengo un chevrolet spark modelo 2012 con 38500 kms a los cuantos kms debo cambiar la correa de reparticion? Gracias

Tengo un nissan tidda 2017 y tiene 60276 km, y de favor quiero saber si ya es tiempo de cambiar la banda de distribucion, el uso del vehículo es ciudad y algunas veces carretera, ojala me puedan ayudar con su opinion. Muchas gracias

Cuando falla la correa de repartición el carro deja de funcionar inmediatamente, porque al romperse puede haber dañado los pistones, las válvulas y muchas otras piezas del motor, dejando inservible nuestro vehículo.

I only use 99.9% Lab quality IPA, but I don't think washing out the bearings, makes a massive difference in a 3D printer, which is effectively a low load application...if others disagree, that is their privilege...   I have no axe to grind, either way!

De material neumático, consistencia dura y muy resistente. Esta correa se encarga de coordinar y sincronizar el movimiento del cigüeñal y el árbol de levas para que las válvulas se abran y cierren sin que los pistones las golpeen.

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La gran mayoría de los motores instalados en los vehículos Nissan no tienen correa de repartición, estos vienen con cadena y viene diseñada para alcanzar la misma durabilidad del motor, que oscila en promedio entre 300.000 Km y 500.000 Km; esto depende del buen mantenimiento y uso del vehículo. Ser muy estricto en los cambios de aceite y filtros, darle mantenimiento programado según especificaciones de la marca y realizar un uso adecuado del mismo, asegura una vida larga a tu vehículo. Según el programa de mantenimiento de Nissan debes cambiar la correa de accesorios y sus mecanismos adicionales, pero no debes cambiar la cadena de repartición.

I should also note that if you order replacement LM8U bearings for Mitsumi, they specifically call out that they are shipped with rust protection oil only and that you should grease them.  The note that there will be little interaction between the rust protection oil and the packing grease, but recommend degreasing and drying before packing.  I would not expect a cheaper LM8U "knock off" to be any better in that regard.

It would be interesting to know how many users have greased their linear bearings that complain of artifacts on their prints vs. those that are still running on the initial light oil from the factory.

Buena noches una pregunta quiero saber por qué mi carro un Logan vota humo al encender en la mañana eso me sucede después de cambiar el empaque del exosto que va en el múltiple le agradezco

after assembly there may be a surplus of Lube at the ends of the Smooth Rods, Wipe this off with Disposable paper towels.

Hola Matias, creemos que hiceron mal el trabajo al cambiar la correa de reparticion, dejaron variado por grados el tiempo del motor. Es importante que lleves tu carro al taller para que corrijan este error ya que puede estar afectando el correcto funcionamiento de tu carro.

If my bearings are in fact upgraded Misumi ones, should I assume the factory liquid is still only anti-corrosion and should still re-grease them?

High SpeedBearingOil

Conoce nuestros servicio puerta a puerta, llevamos tú vehículo a nuestro taller especializado o el servicio a domicilio, donde reparamos tu vehículo en casa sin costo adicional.

Concerning packing without a printed tool - you can squeeze some grease into one end and then push a rod into each end, forcing the grease into the tracks.

The manual is wrong, the liquid covering the bearings is simply anti-corrosion, and it may function as a lubricant for a short period of time, but after that it will wear out and you'll have problems (gouged rods, vibrations, noise). Solution: Degrease the bearings and apply a different lubricant instead. (Upgrading bearings is also an option but that's a whole different discussion, beyond my knowledge level)

On one hand, the Prusa folks can't be stupid.  They have 1000-some printers in the 'farm' cranking almost nonstop and if there were failures, surely they would have noticed and updated their assembly and maintenance instructions.

I followed the manual on my build, installed the bearings and went on.  I slightly over tightened my Y bearings and later corrected it, but did end up with a scored rod.  The X axis scored horribly and you can't really over tighten those bearings the same way you can with the Y.  Were those problems related to my following the manual?  No idea.  But here is what I did when I replaced my bearings and rods during maintenance -- ordered replacements directly from Mitsumi for X and Y.

With all that said, the amount of printing I'm doing, I realized that white lithium might not do the trick for me, or the initial oil is not as good as white lithium. So I was worried that I was going to be re-greasing once a month, and this seemed more maintenance work than I was expecting. So I went a different route, and put in the grease/oil less drylin igus bearings. So far this has been a blessing for me, and I haven't had a issue yet (on month 2). I did have to take much care in making sure the I didn't over tighten anything that could crush and bind the bearings. I later found a Thomas Sanladerer youtube video talking about a igus bearing with aluminum casing that might have been a better option. It's also a bit more money than the ones I used. If these fail, I might try those. Either way, I took great care to make sure belts and lead screws were not involved when I was making sure my movement was smooth and error free. In my opinion, the movement was smoother, and quieter. But I also never tried the LMU8 degreased and re-lubed with any other grease. I popped off the old, and cleaned the rods, and stuck the igus on.

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Buenas noches mucho gusto ni nombre es leyton cruz tengo interes y quisiera saber si estan con vacantes tengo conocimiento de mecanimales rápida. , especializada , diagnósticos, también en el área de colisión, servicio al cliente en si donde puedo enviar la hoja de vida

If the bearing is mis aligned, it should be taken if the smooth rod, and re inserted carefully in the correct orientation, Linear bearings are not intended to rotate, only to run along the smooth rods.

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Buenas noches, tengo un logan 2007 1400 cc, el problema radica que llevado mas o menos 1 hora de recorrido cuando se baja la marcha de 2 a 1 se caen las revoluciones a cero y se apaga; muchas veces se enciende y se normaliza pero en otras ocasiones hay q chancletiar para mantenerlo encendido y si no se apaga. Cual seria su posible causa y como seria el mantenimiento con ustedes gracias [email protected]

Degreased the bearings in denatured alcohol -- ethanol/methanol mix with less that 1% methyl isobutyl ketone.  Be careful with denatured alcohol as the additives can be damaging to plastics and rubber, depending on type and concentration.  No issues encountered with Mitsumi bearing seals, but use at your own risk.

As far as degreasers, I again would think any degreaser would work, as long as it won't eat rubber. From what I can tell the bearing are steel, and the seals are rubber of some sort. So brake cleaner, carb cleaner, gun cleaner, are all possible options, IMHO. But I feel this way because the "oil/grease" on the bearings with my printer, and the replacement LMU8 bearing I got on Amazon (that I never used), before I decided to use the igus bearing, appeared to have the same substance on them, that new guns have. I don't know a single gun owner who doesn't clean this off before firing the weapon for the first time, which is the other reason why if I had to do it all over again......

Buenas tardes, mi consulta es porque hice recambiar la correa de distribución y luego de eso al arrancar se escuchan un par de explosiones, también lo hace cuando acelero a fondo en movimiento (en 1ra o 2da), pero no lo hace si acelero estando detenido (en punto muerto). Quería saber si es posible que hayan hecho mal el trabajo. Muchas gracias

to be absolutely honest, I didn't check which Lube, the original Mk3 had previously used.I Didn't wash the re used bearings out I simply used the Prusa Provided 8mm grease nozzle and a tube of Prusa Lube grease, to re grease them, and the 10mm bearings were greased with the 10mm grease nozzle and  the remains of the Prusa lube.

Packed with Superlube (I'll check which one when I get back home -- traveling this weekend).  Printed the packing tool before tear down.

Greases will often cause stiction issues with motors far larger and far more powerful than the tiny little steppers on a 3d printer. The artifacts caused by stiction can be seen on 10,000lbs machining centers cutting steels as they are machined and can totally ruin tolerances. Those pretty rails the bearings run on would be junked if the grinder that made them had grease in it's bearings.

TFM shows periodic maintenance by rubbing a bit of Prusa lube on the rods, spreading it around, and giving them a good exercise.  Some are saying that this will simply wipe all of the lube to the ends of travel, and it's best to put a few drops of light oil on the rods periodically.

Question: It's currently hard to obtain 99% Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) for me. What are some alternatives I can safely use instead?

I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK

Si no le das un uso frecuente al vehículo, debes revisar la correa de repartición cada cinco años, para asegurarte de que no tenga grietas, desgastes o decoloración, pues el material con el que está fabricada tiene un deterioro normal por tiempo.

Si notas que el vehículo se demora más de lo habitual en arrancar y además hace un sonido raro, puede tener un problema con la correa de repartición, así que será mejor agendar una cita con tu mecánico de confianza para revisarla y cambiarla en caso de ser necesario.

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Recuerda que en Autolab contamos con el equipo técnico especializado para poder diagnosticar y realizar las reparaciones pertinentes.

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Apply via the 'packing' method. ( https://prusacommunity.com/set-your-bearing-straight/ or search 'Packing a linear bearing with grease' on YouTube) Many people have done this option, especially using a packing tool printed from thingiverse. Some people say this is too much and can jam up the bearings. Question: I haven't built my printer yet, so can't take advantage of the packing tool. Any other effective methods of doing it?

Muchas veces nos olvidamos de la correa de repartición, porque en teoría es un elemento de larga duración, que algunas veces puede romperse de forma «imprevista» y señalamos «imprevista», porque hay algunos signos que nos puede prevenir de este suceso. ¿Cuáles son los avisos? los veremos a continuación:

What to do? Well, I have used a high tack oil like chainsaw bar oil in linear bearings and I 've run them totally dry also. Stiction can still be an issue with chain bar oil, but to a lesser extent than grease could cause. And if dry is chosen, one must accept the wear.  A decent medium weight oil is perhaps best. It takes just a light film to be effective. And if the seals are in good shape, it's not likely to cause issues.

Buenas tardes. Tengo un Nissan tiida modelo 2012 con 57.000 kilómetros y me gustaría saber si ya le debo cambiar la correa de repartición.

Question: Can we use the small Prusa lubricant tube that came with the kit? What are options for people who don't have access to Superlube/lithium grease?

I've tried to summarize everything I've read so far, since information is scattered, and repetitive. Hopefully this will help someone else, and I'd find an answer along the way with your assistance. Please let me know if anything needs correcting/adding.

La presencia de humo en el escape puede ser un síntoma normal o una falla dependiendo de la cantidad de humo y el color. 1. Si es humo blanco en pequeñas cantidades, es normal y se debe a la condensación de los gases producidos por el motor, estos pasan por el convertidor catalítico convirtiéndolos en gases menos nocivos o en agua. 2. Si el humo es blanco en grandes cantidades, puede ser causado por refrigerante, demasiado combustible u otro fluido presente en la explosión. Se debe realizar un diagnóstico pronto porque puede acarrear daños serios al motor. 3. Si el humo es negro, puede ser causado por deficiencia en la mezcla de aire y combustible (más combustible que aire) y se debe a algún problema en la gestión electrónica de la inyección. 4. Si el humo es azul, puede haber aceite presente en la combustión y es síntoma de deterioro de sellos de las válvulas o anillos de pistón entre otras piezas. Se debe diagnosticar para evitar daños al motor.

My technique is to mark the run of the bearings, on the outside of the shell, with sharpie indellible pen, ~then  I squeeze lube into the bearing from one end, then put my finger over the other end, and insert a smooth rod into the bearing, this causes the grease to be distributed into the bearing tracks.  I repeat with the remaining brearings.

Were I to build another Mk3, I would degrease and pack the bearings during assembly.  Needed?  Maybe, maybe not, but certainly not going to make things worse and may very well make things better.

Me parece que la mayor parte de la gente que conduce cada día para ir al trabajo, por ejemplo, no saben prácticamente nada sobre mecánica. No sería un problema de no ser porque no conocer tu coche, sus pilotos de aviso o sus averías más corrientes puede llegar a ser peligroso. Si algo va mal hay que parar, no sería la primera vez (ni la 1 millón) que un coche arde en mitad de la carretera por un mal uso del conductor ?

Buen día Henry, Para Autolab es muy satisfactorio poder brindar respuesta a las inquietudes. Normalmente las correas vienen para tener una larga vida útil de más de 50000 Km, lo primero que debes revisar es la tensión de las correas, como estas están fabricadas con elementos elásticos tienden a ceder o alargarse un poco. El primer procedimiento que se debe de realizar es verificar si se puede tensionar y darle la tensión necesaria, si no trae elemento de tensión ajustable si debemos de verificar la correa además de las poleas sobre las cuales la correa ejerce alguna acción (Polea de alternador, bomba de agua, compresor de aire acondicionado, bomba de dirección hidráulica, poleas guías, polea tensora, etc.). Espero sea de ayuda el comentario y recuerda que en Autolab contamos con el equipo técnico necesario para realizar el mantenimiento de tu vehículo.

There are at least two SuperLube greases, one of which is too thick for Linear Bearings. So you could actually do a disservice to the printer using the wrong one.

With that said, I purchased (and limped along) with Permatex White Lithium Grease from my major automotive store. By putting grease on the rods using a Q-tip, when I thought it needed it. On my printer (and it could have been something I did wrong) there formed a black sticky residue on the rods. First weeks in on the X, then weeks after the X on the Y, and then about a month after the Y, on the Z. I didn't do any analysis of the black sticky substance, but it would appear to my untrained eye, that the rubber seal was either breaking down, or breaking in, and coating the rods with a VERY thin coat of reside, which cleaned up easily with windex. At a point in time, I did put more grease into the bearings on the X, when I had to break it down, to clean to a level to meet my needs. I can easily promise you the "on the rods method" is a temporary fix, and the rubber seals (if too much is put on) "wipe" the excess off, and deposit it at the max and minimum ends of the rods. So a little in this case is better, BUT it also didn't seem to last long before I needed to rub the lithium Q-tip on the rod again. I also had to be careful that a cotton fiber didn't end up on the rod with the grease. Maybe I was being over cautious. I feel that a make-up foam applicator might be better if you choose to go this route, or something similar.

Muy satisfecho de sus tips ,los valoro bastante por favor quisiera saber cuál es el costo de una revisión general de mi vehículo un shery cross modelo 2014

Si empiezas a oír ruidos extraños provenientes de la transmisión, es momento de revisar la correa de repartición, porque puede tener una tensión inadecuada y reventarse en cualquier momento.

I'm definitely hearing mixed message WRT both initial lube and periodic maintenance.  (Not to mention replacing and 'upgrading' the bearings.)

Regardless of which route is 'correct', I'm going with option 2, because I haven't built my printer yet, so worse case I am just doing preventative maintenance, and best case, I avoided many headaches later.

The manual states that the bearings are pre-lubed, no need to touch them, install as is and move on until you need to perform maintenance down the road.

Si el motor encendido, pero el carro está detenido y comienza a vibrar, es probable que sea hora de un cambio de correa, porque los pistones y las válvulas están comenzando a realizar un esfuerzo mayor al normal.