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Be sure to consult your owner’s manual, a repair guide, an AutoZoner at a store near you, or a licensed, professional mechanic for vehicle-specific repair information. Refer to the service manual for specific diagnostic, repair and tool information for your particular vehicle. Always chock your wheels prior to lifting a vehicle. Always disconnect the negative battery cable before servicing an electrical application on the vehicle to protect its electrical circuits in the event that a wire is accidentally pierced or grounded. Use caution when working with automotive batteries. Sulfuric acid is caustic and can burn clothing and skin or cause blindness. Always wear gloves and safety glasses and other personal protection equipment, and work in a well-ventilated area. Should electrolyte get on your body or clothing, neutralize it immediately with a solution of baking soda and water. Do not wear ties or loose clothing when working on your vehicle.

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The 10.5 cm Festungs und Belagerungs Kanone C/85 was a fortress and siege gun produced in Germany and used by Romania during the Second Balkan War and World War I.

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In the case of most vans and trucks today, along with older RWD cars, the rear wheel bearings are housed inside the solid axle, and are usually pressed into the axle tube, or pressed onto the drive axle itself. In either case, the cost of the bearing is usually between $25.00-50.00, whereas the labor to remove and press in a new bearing runs between 1-4 hours.

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Traditional cone or roller bearings in older 2WD vehicles are often serviced when removing the rotors during a brake job. These bearings can easily be replaced, are less expensive to buy, and generally cost around $6-20.00 per unit, and $80-100.00 to service, along with the cost of replacing the rotor usually, as the bearing race is pressed in. All in, labor and rotor, most vehicles will run around $150.00 to replace and go up depending on rotor cost. In many cases, it’s cheaper to replace the rotor than it is to remove and press in a new bearing race.

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An early drawback of the gun was that it required considerable time to prepare a firing platform made of concrete or timbers before use. An external recoil cylinder was then bolted to the platform and connected to an eyelet on the bottom of the gun carriage. Without it, the gun had no recoil mechanism and when fired the gun rolled back onto a set of ramps behind the wheels and then slid back into position. Since it lacked a recoil mechanism it had to be levered into position and re-aimed after every shot, which was strenuous, time-consuming, and limited its rate of fire. The height of the gun also limited the rate of fire since a gun crew needed to lift a 16 kg (35 lb 4 oz) projectile to shoulder height.[2]

Learn the symptoms of a worn wheel hub, common causes, and why early replacement is key to maintaining your vehicle's safety.

Shift back into park (for an automated transmission) or gear (for a manual transmission) prior to lowering the vehicle to the ground.

Advice, how-to guides, and car care information featured on AutoZone.com and AutoZone Advice & How-To’s are presented as helpful resources for general maintenance and automotive repairs from a general perspective only and should be used at your own risk. Information is accurate and true to the best of AutoZone’s knowledge, however, there may be omissions, errors or mistakes.

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Back in the old days, wheel bearings were composed of 2 cone bearings on each front side. When removing the brake rotors (or drums) these more old-fashioned bearings could be serviced by packing the bearings with grease. While some vehicles still retain this style of bearing, it is rare.

A humming or rumbling noise while driving is usually the prime indication of a worn wheel bearing. This sound will get louder if you take the wheel and lightly turn one direction of the other at speed or go on a slight curve in the road at speed. Driving on a damaged wheel bearing can be dangerous, considering that the wheel bearing is not sufficiently lubed and friction is extremely high at this point. This friction generates heat, which will eventually disintegrate the bearing more, when can lead to complete failure, wheel off, or loss of control of the vehicle.  This can occur anytime you are driving.

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After the Romanian campaign, Bulgaria used 31 guns captured from the Romanians for the remainder of World War I under the Bulgarian designation 105-мм нескорострелно оръдие Д-35.[1]

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There should be very little motion in the tire. If you have any movement at all, either a wheel bearing, or ball joint is at fault.

An early modification to make the guns suitable for field use was the fitting of Bonagente grousers to the wheels to improve balance and reduce ground pressure on soft ground. A bonus was they slowed recoil and didn't require extensive site preparation to bring the guns into action. For transport, the gun was attached to a limber for towing by a horse team or artillery tractor.[2]

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These vehicles up until very recently still used hub systems that house roller bearings or cone style. While these bearings themselves are often as cheap as 2WD vehicles, the process of removing them and disassembling the hub is often a little more time-intensive. Expect to pay for 1-1.5 hours of labor per side, which is usually $80-160.00, plus the bearings to replace. Keep in mind if the race is damaged in the hub, it will need to be pressed out, and a new race pressed in, leading to more time.

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Wheel bearings live a tough life. Most of a vehicle's weight rides on the wheel bearings at the 4 corners of your vehicle. Once these bearings begin to deteriorate, a humming noise becomes noticeable. It's easiest to hear at speed when you turn the wheel slightly from side to side. When a rear wheel bearing goes out, the humming or grinding noise is usually constant.

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You can lower your wheel bearing replacement cost by changing them yourself. You should be able to do this in your own garage. However, it will require some specialized tools. Make sure to reference your vehicle’s service manual or seek out online information and determine the kind of wheel bearing your car or truck is geared up with prior to starting the repair work. Keep in mind that AutoZone rents all the specialized tools you will need to replace your wheel bearing and does so for free! Learn more about Loan-A-Tool here.

The vast majority of vehicles today use a complete-unit hub bearing. Here, the cost of the bearing is usually the bulk of the expense, as most hub bearings run between $80.00 to $300.00. Many of these have ABS sensors built into them. These bearings are unbolted from the steering knuckle, and a new bearing bolted on. Expect to pay for 1-2 hours of labor to replace per side, usually between $80-200.00.

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Give us a call today or stop by your local AutoZone if you have any questions about wheel bearing replacement, where we have all the parts, tools, and advice to get the job done right! If the job is too big for you, look through our list of Preferred Shops in your area that can help you complete the job!

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Today, aside from rear-wheel drive vehicles that use a solid axle (like trucks), most vehicles use a hub bearing. These consist of a bearing and flange surface that is bolted directly to the steering knuckle or rear transaxle. The bearing then has a hub face, with the wheel studs and tire-mounting surface. Often, an axle (often one with a CV joint) also passes through this bearing via a splined surface and has a large hub nut (called a spindle nut) that secures it at the bearing. This design makes up most bearings on vehicles today. There are some vehicles that still use a pressed-in hub bearing, where you re-use the original wheel hub, but this is becoming rare.

The C/85 was fairly conventional for its time and most nations had similar guns such as its Russian cousin the 42-line fortress and siege gun Pattern of 1877 or its French rival the Canon de 120 mm modèle 1878. The C/85 used a predecessor of Krupp's sliding-block breech known as a cylindro-prismatic breech and the gun used separate-loading, bagged charges, and projectiles. Like many of its contemporaries, the C/85 had a box trail carriage, no gun shield, two wooden-spoked steel-rimmed wheels, an unsprung axle, and no recoil mechanism. The carriages were tall because the guns were designed to sit behind a parapet with the barrel overhanging the front in the fortress artillery role or behind a trench or berm in the siege role. In these roles, it provided long-range, low-angle, counter-battery fire against enemy artillery.[2]

With the wheel bearing replacement cost in mind, you may be wondering if you can drive with a bad wheel bearing. A bad wheel bearing needs to be changed as soon as possible. There is no lubrication on a bad wheel bearing. Consequently, as you drive with a bad wheel bearing, you run the risk of the wheel bearing completely failing and breaking apart, which can cause massive stability problems when driving, even a crash. If you’re in the middle of nowhere and you need to drive a short way to get help to prevent this scenario, you should drive at a slower speed so that your wheel remains intact for a couple more hours.

Rear wheel bearings today are usually no different than fronts in terms of a complete hub bearing or pressed-on units. In the vast majority of cases here, a complete unit is used and unbolted / bolted to the rear transaxle (2WD vehicles) or independent rear axle.

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In 1891 the Romanians ordered 60 C/85 guns and in Romanian service, they were given the designation Tunul Krupp, calibrul 105 mm, model 1891, and were used during the Second Balkan War. In 1916 they were deployed at Tutrakan and Cernavoda, equipping two heavy artillery regiments: the 2nd regiment had 24 guns, and the 3rd regiment had 36 guns.[1] By the beginning of 1918, only 24 remained in service.[3]

Spin the wheel/tire by hand and listen carefully. You should hear a soft rubbing sound which is just the brake pads gliding over the rotor. A grinding sound centered in the very middle of the wheel is a dead giveaway for a failing wheel bearing. It’s important to note that when wheel bearings first start to go, it will normally be difficult to hear and tell. Usually only a road test under the weight of the vehicle will reveal that the bearing is going out.

When doing any regular vehicle maintenance or if you suspect a wheel bearing issue, they can be inspected. Do the following to check your bearings for wear without taking the wheels off.

Next, if movement is present, inspect the lower ball joint (and upper if applicable) and see if the movement is coming from a worn ball joint. If ball joints are tight, then the wheel bearing is suspect.

While you can lower your wheel bearing replacement cost by doing it yourself, be prepared to invest a bit of time into the repair. Experience is among the key elements impacting completion time and the estimates above are based on professional book times, not “I’m doing this for the first time” times. First-timers should expect the job to take around 4-6 hours.

Popular in German and Japanese vehicles, these units are the sealed roller bearing that you see on the back of the complete unit. In these cases, the entire steering knuckle must often be removed from the vehicle, and the bearing pressed out, and the new one pressed in. While the cost of the bearing drastically diminishes (usually these run between $25.00-50.00) the labor involved to replace the bearing goes up, usually to the tune of 2-4 hours to replace ($160-400.00).

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Explore the mechanics behind traction control systems, how they enhance safety in challenging driving conditions, and tips to keep them functioning properly.

Without getting under the car, grab each wheel at the top and bottom with both hands. You bottom hand should reach under the tire to the backside. Your top hand should grab the front top portion of the tire. Now, try to rock the tire back and forth by pulling outward with the bottom hand, and inward with the top hand, then reversing the motion.

Once again, these are all just approximations. However, they are a great indication of what you can anticipate paying. Fortunately, wheel bearings last a long time, so you won’t need to change them very frequently.

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Choosing between all-wheel drive (AWD) and front-wheel drive (FWD) depends on your driving needs. Learn the pros, cons, and key factors to decide which drivetrain is best for your car.

Wheel bearings live a tough life. Most of a vehicle's weight rides on the wheel bearings at the 4 corners of your vehicle. Once these bearings begin to deteriorate, a humming noise becomes noticeable. It's easiest to hear at speed when you turn the wheel slightly from side to side. When a rear wheel bearing goes out, the humming or grinding noise is usually constant. Back in the old days, wheel bearings were composed of 2 cone bearings on each front side. When removing the brake rotors (or drums) these more old-fashioned bearings could be serviced by packing the bearings with grease. While some vehicles still retain this style of bearing, it is rare. Today, aside from rear-wheel drive vehicles that use a solid axle (like trucks), most vehicles use a hub bearing. These consist of a bearing and flange surface that is bolted directly to the steering knuckle or rear transaxle. The bearing then has a hub face, with the wheel studs and tire-mounting surface. Often, an axle (often one with a CV joint) also passes through this bearing via a splined surface and has a large hub nut (called a spindle nut) that secures it at the bearing. This design makes up most bearings on vehicles today. There are some vehicles that still use a pressed-in hub bearing, where you re-use the original wheel hub, but this is becoming rare.