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Guess they been keeping him busy. With the millions of Justin Bieber worship sites on the net I can’t understand why they would prefer to hang out here.

OMG, I liked that a lot. Fairly sure the music was at least in part sequenced; or snare drums are a lot fluffier than I remember. Those Buildogs just took over my weekend…

The core of the machine is a large drum with two tracks of alternating grey and black Lego Technic beams and pins. The musician sequences out the music using these. The pins activate levers which in turn drop ball bearings on the various sound producing devices in the machine. The melody is produced by a vibraphone. At first we thought the drum kit was electronic, but it turns out the wires going to it were to amplify the sound they made when hit. At the end of their travel the bearings are brought up to the hopper again by a bucket conveyor.

I can just see you lifting the chair back upright and pushing it aside leaving tracks of coffee from the wheels. Looks like you need another keyboard to! … now where’s that mop?

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Move aside a disc caliper or take off a brake drum (if not integral with the hub) in the usual way (See Renewing drum-brake shoes ).

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You may now be able to pull the hub carrier free. If not, disconnect the drive-shaft outer joint (See How to check U-Joints ). Support the part of the drive shaft that remains on the car to avoid straining its joints.

Remove the hub dust cover and hub-nut locking device in the usual way — on some cars this means raising and removing the wheel, then replacing and lowering it.

Work with the car raised on axle stands under frame members. Chock the wheels that are on the ground, and apply the handbrake if it operates on those wheels; otherwise release it. Loosen wheel nuts before raising the wheels.

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Lubricate the hub with an approved grease, consulting the car handbook or a dealer for details of the type and quantity.

“script kiddies and other immature teens” Yeah, they forgot to spray this month so we’re seeing more of them lately. The exterminator says they’ll be here next week.

man, when I saw those for the first time, all I wanted was to see a real version. Good to see someone took a shot at it.

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The outboard grease seal may also be left on the drive flange. Prise it free, taking care not to scratch its seating, and discard it.

This is so awesome. I can’t help but wonder if the timing of the notes and drums is as perfect as the music video suggests…

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Uh.. oops. My late night excitement just lead to me necro-thread myself. :) Seriously though. If you haven’t seen them already, check out WOTE.

The machine is great, but we also really appreciate the hacker spirit behind it. When a commenter on a YouTube video told him he was a genius, he replied, “Thank you for that! But I do think, though, that it is mostly about being able to put in the time! I mean the talent of being stubborn and able to see things through are more important than the abilities you have to start with. If you work hard on anything, you will learn what you need and success! Its my idea anyway! So happy people like the machine!”. Which we think is just as cool as the machine itself. Video of the machine in action and part one of the build series after the break!

In some driven hubs the arrangement is similar, except that the `stationary axle' - the hub carrier is hollow and the drive shaft runs through it to connect with the hub.

The type of bearing used also has much in common with non-driven wheel bearings (See Checking the half shafts ). However the bearings of live rear axles are quite different.

“Until now there was actually no duct tape involved in the building of the machine, so I’m happy that I found a place for it.”

Extend the handle of a socket wrench with a length of pipe for extra leverage. Check if the hub nut has a right or left-hand thread, then loosen it.

According to the latest ‘making of’ videos, there are screws in the back of the release mechanism that micro-adjust the moment each of the 22 ball dispensers, so I’d say yes.

I think Matthias Wandel has a lot to answer for :-) (and, having read his comments on G+, it sounds like he’s been inundated since this marble music machine went viral)

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The force needed to loosen the nut is such that you may have to prevent the car from moving — you may even need someone inside applying the brakes .

Dismantling is much the same as for a non-driven hub (See Removing wheel bearings ). But there is one major difference — the hub nut is usually very tight; if possible, loosen it with the wheel on the ground .

There is likely to be a plastic water shield on the inner side of the hub assembly, either attached to the drive shaft or clipped to the hub carrier.

Details vary from car to car: when dismantling, make notes or drawings of how all these parts are arranged and which way round they go.

There is also an extra grease seal on the outboard side of the pair of bearings. As usual, renew all grease seals whenever you dismantle a hub. There may be additional spacer rings between the seals and bearing races.

The procedure for refitting a driven hub is exactly the same as for a non-driven hub. Clean all parts thoroughly (except plastic shields) with paraffin or white spirit, inspect bearings and renew if damaged.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uog48viZUbM (part 1; instruments, gearing, programming) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p0Guq7vZb_E (part 2; marble systems, design oopses etc)

Cars with front-wheel drive have front-wheel bearings that resemble closely those in the rear wheels of rear-wheel-drive cars which have independent suspension (See How car suspension works ).

The hub bearings are exactly like those of a non-driven hub, and you dismantle them in the same order. But it is usual for the 'hub' - properly called the drive flange - to turn on bearings inside the hub carrier. So the inner race revolves, while the outer race is stationary.

If the car has a MacPherson strut (See Renewing MacPherson-strut inserts ), remove it from the body and the track control arm (but with unit replacement suspension remove the lower half of the strut only).

If not, support the carrier on blocks (if detached from the car) and knock the flange out, using a suitable socket or pipe as a drift to avoid hammering it directly.

Just phenomenal. I saw this linked from somewhere else yesterday and I must have watched the performance 5 or 6 times now. It never gets old. Great work, Really inspirational.

On cars with no central hole in the wheel, loosen the hub nut with the wheel off: a helper applying the brakes is essential.

On a rear-wheel-drive car you may not need to remove the hub carrier: if you can disconnect the drive shaft, you can dismantle the hub with the carrier still in place.

The final part count for the machine sits at 3,000 not including the 2,000 ball bearings rolling around inside of it. If you’ve ever tried to make a marble machine, then you’ll be just as impressed as we were that the machine only appeared to lose a few marbles in the course of a three minute song. Aside from the smoothness of the machine, which is impressive, we also enjoyed the pure, well, hackiness of it. We can spy regular wood screws, rubber bands, plywood, bits of wire, and all sorts of on-the-spot solutions. Just to add bonus cool, the whole project appears to have been built with  just a bandsaw, a drill press, and a few hand power tools.

The bearings may remain in the hub carrier, in which case you can remove them in the same way as bearings remaining in a non-driven hub.

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If you look at it closer, you’ll see that the snare drum is actually a trigger pad, triggering a synthesizer snaredrum. It does move when a marble hits it, but I think that’s only to make sure that the marbles don’t jump all over the place. I.e. dampening.

Intel built a clone several years ago. Not really that impressive though. The lights and sounds are all handled separate from the ball drops. Also, air solenoids. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PCIkbr9HCcw

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The inner race of an inboard tapered roller bearing may remain on the drive shaft. If so, tap it off gently with a soft-faced hammer.

Oh my goodness… I can’t believe the sheer number of people here who haven’t obsessed over this like I have until now. Watch for and follow the one black marble. :) They did a followup video like 6 months back where this song was played on the bell tower of some city and it felt totally justified. This and WOTE are my current favorite music related youtube thingies atm: https://www.youtube.com/user/walkofftheearth

It looks like he’s using Matthias’s gear template generator: http://woodgears.ca/gear/index.html Also, according to youtube, Matthias is subscribed to him :)

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Is that a serious response? It doesn’t sound like one but I’m giving you the benefit of the doubt because the HAD forums are typically where adults go and not the script kiddies and other immature teens who are unable to comment in a mature manner.

Truely a 21st Century, HomeMade One Man Band. With that and a busy street he will never have to get a job. Har har har. He is largely right, philospoically. Thomas said; Genius is 1% inspiration and 99% perspiration. Of course Albert also; Imagination is more important than intelligence. Yup… he jut might be a genius… Or a redneck – but 1 bridge at a time. What do YOU think, Jeff?

Apparently, the drums are not synthesised/simple triggers; they are contact miked for clean sound, and then post processed/effect filtered. Part two also shows the system they use to tweak the timing, there’s a screw for each ‘note’ that delays the trigger point slightly.

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We tried to figure out how to describe the band [Wintergatan]. It took a lot of googling, and we decided to let their really incredible music machine do it for them. The best part? Unlike some projects like this that come our way, [Wintergatan] documented the whole build process in an eight part video series.

If you actually look at it closer (i.e. the video where he shows how that one works), you’ll see that it uses a contact microphone with a bit of post/processing. No triggers anywhere.

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With tapered roller bearings , if you only want to check and lubricate them, there is no need to drive out the outer races if you can still see them clearly.

The main difference between driven and non-driven hubs is that a drive shaft projects into a driven hub from the inner side.

Detach the water shield from the hub carrier. Prise out the inboard oil seal , taking care not to scratch its seating. You may now be able to pull the drive flange out of the hub carrier.