Axle sealtruck

2012114 — The inner race that remains on the hub is removed by clamping the hub in a vise and with a face mask and gloves, use a big chisel in the seam between race and ...

My car I noticed the shrill noise for a few years. Halfway into a 500 mile trip the wheel bearing went out. Drove it the other half and got it replaced. Not saying it is what you should do, just my story. No sqeak or squeal after new wheel bearing.

2024102 — In theory, wheel bearings can last as long as the vehicle itself. However, depending on road conditions and driving habits, you can expect to ...

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I am not driving this Saturn atm. I am taking it to a shop whenever I have the time. I know it’s difficult to diagnose a problem by describing a noise on the internet.

On my 2002 Saturn, the rear wheel bearing that went bad made a noise like a noisy tire, i.e. a mud and snow tire or all terain tire. In fact the original tires masked the noise so I didn’t discover that it had a defective bearing until I put on some premium tires.

“It was a ring on the inner joint of the cv shaft rubbing the transmission housing. This ring is basically just a dust boot and can be removed without hurting the vehicle, the seal on the output shaft bearing does a well enough job keeping things out.”

When in doubt, get it checked out. Go to the shop where you buy your tires, get your tires rotated, and ask them to check the bearings.

Be sure to inspect your axle boots but if they tear, the CV joint will go quickly, but that makes a clicking sound on turns. Do not remove any dust shields. If there is any interference, just bend the dust shield away.

Axle sealleak

I don’t own my Saturn anymore, I sold it after I retired as it became redundant. I wish I still had it, last I heard was about a year ago and it was still on the road then.

There are many different types of axle seals. For our purposes we will be referring to the popular dynamic radial seal. These seals typically feature a mild carbon steel shell. In cases where corrosion is a concern the shell can be formed from stainless steel. In most cases, the seal will be outfitted with a garter spring to keep the seal lip tight against the rotating seal surface. Garter springs are made of spring steel wire and in some cases stainless steel and can be locked into place or merely wedged in place so special attention should be paid to ensure proper seating during installation. The inside of the seal is called the lip and it is typically made of some type of rubberized material. The lip can look different from one seal to another with some featuring a stepped design or more than one lip. The shell has a bore seal bumper on its oil side that is made from a softer material to provide a pliable seal.

I am sure it is the wheel because the sound seems to swing back and forth. If you accelerate the noise goes away but as soon as you let go the gas the noise comes back, and it gets worse the faster you go. I also tried this on neutral.

CVaxle seal

Also, I have heard the sound of bad wheel bearings before in the other vehicles I used to own. I had to replace 3 of them. I am familiar with that droning/humming noise, and that it gets worse when turning or at certain speeds but no such thing is happening on this Saturn.

Wheel bearing noise shouldn’t change much whether you’re in the throttle or off throttle, as long as you’re rolling. As mentioned wheel bearing noise will change when turning. Generally the noise is more pronounced when turning in the opposite direction of the bad bearing. Since the noise changes with throttle input, I’m not certain it’s wheel bearing related…

Yeah I took the car for a test drive at 1 am and I couldn’t hear any humming, droning noise. I have hear wheel bearings going bad before in my previous vehicles, but this is sounds nothing like it.

Front-Wheel Drive. Axle Shafts. Final Drive Housing (And Rear Axle Housing for ... Typical Cost of Repair for Several Key Components. With a Ford Protect ...

Axle sealrear

Thanks for replying. I just found this video on the Saturn Fans forums. I am wondering if you can take a look since you also own a Saturn. The noise you hear in this video is exactly the same noise I hear in my car. Link to the video is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yof6ggFXKjo

I wanted to record a video at 1 AM and upload it here but my phone’s mic is trash and you can’t hear anything at all in the video.

I am wondering if you know what “ring” is he referring to because he also says it is “basically a dust boot”? I am confused.

When the front wheel bearings went out at 275k, they sounded like a airplane propeller but only made an audible noise above 50 mph.

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No noise until the vehicle has warmed up. That got me worried about my transmission so I checked the transmission fluid, and it is good. The fluid is pink to almost transparent. No burnt smells.

Like I mentioned before, the noise is totally absent when you are giving it some gas but comes back once you let go the gas.

When the car was still warming up. I drove around town at different speeds and couldn’t hear the noise at all. After 10 to 15 minutes of driving I started hearing the squealing/squeaky noise.

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Transmission and differential bearings make a whistling noise when they are going bad and it is dependent on throttle pressure. If you have a manual transmission, it uses Dexron III as the lubricant. It has a dipstick so you can check the level and color of the ATF. If it is low, add some more. You could probably use a thickener the increase it’s viscosity and mask the noise, but don’t use very much.

These tips, compiled from Randy Lyman’s book, “Differentials Identification, Restoration & Repair”, provide both the technical information and the proper frame of mind to ensure a trouble-free seal install. Happy wrenching.

Axle SealPrice

Transmission fluid level is good. Fluid is very clean, pink of color and almost transparent in the paper towel. No burnt smells.

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“It was a ring on the inner joint of the cv shaft rubbing the transmission housing. This ring is basically just a dust boot and can be removed without hurting the vehicle, the seal on the output shaft bearing does a well enough job keeping things out.”

It is wise to use a sealant like an RVT, on the outside diameter of the seal shell to ensure no fluid will be able to seep around the seal once it’s installed. Note that many seals are made with a coating on their outside diameter to assist in this.

Be deliberate and ensure you drive the seal in place squarely. Don’t allow the seal to go in the bore crooked and possibly damage the seal and/or the seal bore. Keep the seal square and install it until it’s flush with the housing or against its stop. It would be wise to note the position of the original seal prior to its removal.

I was going about 10 mph to 20 mph in very heavy traffic when I noticed some sort of whistling noise coming from the driver side wheel as I passed by the cars on my left.

If it’s the inner CV joint slightly interfering with the transmission housing your shop should be able to confirm that by wear patterns on the interfering parts. If that’s the only problem the best path is probably to keep everything installed as-is and just ignore the noise. If this just started for no apparent reason, no work done in that area prior, one has to wonder why it is happening now? That inner CV joint moves with the axle as the wheel goes over bumps, during turns, etc. So there may be a problem brewing with the front suspension or steering. Good idea to have the front suspension & steering parts checked.

Axle seallocation

I searched the Saturn Fans forums and found someone with the same problem. Link to the video is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yof6ggFXKjo

In this video the focus is on the first generation type wheel bearing without a magnetic encoder seal.

When sliding seal over the shaft be sure to protect the lip or leading edge. This can be achieved with special sleeves over splines, using guide plates, or simply using smooth tape… or being very careful. An extension screwed onto the stud of an axle shaft, for example, can provide the control and support needed to complete the installation without having to rest on the shaft.

As with many automotive operations, the complexity of a task is not always representative of its importance. Take axle seal installation… a pretty straightforward affair but get it wrong and your diff is doomed. The seal will leak and ultimately lead to gear failure. To avoid this scenario, we have compiled 10 installation tips that will ensure you do the job right.

Usually bad bearings are reported as a growling noise, louder the faster you go. Or as a rhythmic rrrr rrrr rrrr noise, most apparent in parking lot slow-speed driving, often during turning. But a whistling sound is certainly possible, especially as a first sign of a failing bearing. Ask you shop to double check the differential fluid level too; if low that can cause sort of a whirring/whistling noise. On your SL2 checking the differential fluid level is probably the same procedure as the transmission fluid level.

Frontaxle seal

Axle sealreplacement

“It was a ring on the inner joint of the cv shaft rubbing the transmission housing. This ring is basically just a dust boot and can be removed without hurting the vehicle, the seal on the output shaft bearing does a well enough job keeping things out.”

My Saturn had an intermediate shaft on one side so the axles could be the same length. That intermediate shaft has a bearing in it and that could become noisy. Not sure what it would sound like though.

Inspect the shaft where the seal will ride. Light imperfections in the finish can be polished with crocus cloth or emery cloth. If more substantial defects like deep scratches, pitting, or scoring are present you may have to remedy with a new shaft or install a Speedi Sleeve. If the shaft is blemish free, clean it well to remove any residual grit.

In some installations the garter spring can pop off during the process. To avoid this simply apply the backside of the seal with grease (or Vaseline in a pinch) to encourage the spring to stay in place.

I think this might be a good time to replace your ATF. Just do a drain and refill using Dexron VI instead of Dexron III. The oil filter is on the top or side of the transmission and is a spin on so it is easy to replace. Transmission fluid should be bright red. Pink indicates it is near the end of its life. It will start to turn brown soon and that would not be good. I would not flush, just drain, change the filter and refill.

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Check that the axle vents are free and clear of any gritty buildup. Clogged vents can lead to excessive housing pressure that may speed the wear of the seal and encourage oil blowby around the seal.