The instructions show that the rear hub and bearing can be removed without removing the brake shoes; remove the axle nut, unplug the wheel speed sensor, remove 4 bolts and remove the hub.

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I cannot remove my rear drums since they are fused to hub flange. not a worn lip issue. its a rust issue. I removed my front knuckle to replace that bearing but I don’t think that route will work on rear drums. I have AWD so there is a splined axle in hub. which is probably stuck. so, the drum is fused to hub and axle is probably fused to hub. I had an idea to unbolt hub from backside and see if I could remove hub and drum as 1 unit. I think hub flange is small enough to clear brake drums if I do this? or should I cut off drum with grinder/torch and than deal with hub?

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Yep, sounds easy. Borrowed this from mechanic friend. Found out 1 of ears was broken so I had to cobble together a strap to hold them in place. U can buy individual arms so u can have 4-5-6 arms. He had 3. U can hit “anvil” on end to persuade puller. Rather odd tool but it worked.

[quote=“Cavell, post:7, topic:102947”] Why are there 203 videos on utube showing how to beat off wheel bearings? I am fairly sure it needs new brake pads or rear drums.

Are you just trying to wring the last few miles out of it or is the plan to keep it on the road for quite some time? CSA

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Well, it’s a MN rust belt, salt sprayed car. Why are there 203 videos on utube showing how to beat off wheel bearings? I am fairly sure it needs new brake pads or rear drums. Wheel bearings? Maybe-maybe not

it is not a shoe ridge issue. the drum is fused to the bearing flange. I do have a good size 3 jaw puller now. got 2 actually. think using that and beating on drum to shock it might work? I had a shop push out the front bearing from knuckle. BANG. really made the tech jump. I am certain the rear bearing is fused to knuckle too. so unbolting the bearing is not going to get me any closer to success.