• Remove the (4) nuts securing the wheel hub assembly to the steering knuckle with a 21 mm socket (located on the backside of the steering knuckle). The nuts are difficult to see, but easy enough to reach with the appropriate socket and a small extension.

• Trace the ABS sensor wire from the top of the steering knuckle to behind the bottom edge of the inner fender and unhook it from all clips that secure it to the four wheel drive vacuum/brake lines and frame (as applicable). Disconnect the ABS sensor connector mounted behind the bottom edge of the inner fender rock guard.

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• You may turn the steering wheel as necessary to re-orient the steering knuckle and obtain better access to the wheel hub nuts.

• Examine the o-ring on the 4 wheel drive locking hub; if damaged, it should be replaced. A leak will cause problems with the auto locking function.

• Remove the wheel hub assembly from the steering knuckle. You may need to tap the hub with a hammer as you pull it away from the knuckle; they can be stubborn. Do not damage the brake rotor rock shield, which will be removed with the wheel hub.

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• Secure the ABS sensor to the top of the steering knuckle (single 8 mm bolt for bracket). Secure the ABS sensor wire with all appropriate clips.

• Reinstall the series of washers over the stub shaft; the order is (1) circular washer, then the hex shaped washer, and finally the last circular washer.

• Install the brake rotor rock shield over the rear of the hub assembly in the appropriate orientation, maneuvering the ABS sensor wire through the correct slot in the rock shield.

If the nuts prove difficult to remove, spray them with a penetrating lubricant, allow it to soak, then re-attempt. For extremely stubborn nuts, spray with penetrating lubricant repeatedly and allow to soak for several hours.

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• With the vehicle parked on a level surface, engage the parking brake and raise the front of the vehicle. Support the front axle with jack stands and block the rear tires.

• Install the new wheel hub assembly in the reverse order it was removed. Torque nuts to 133 lb-ft in a criss-cross sequence. (Recommend torquing nuts to ~ 60 lb-ft, then to final torque of 133 lb-ft).

• Lube the large o-ring in the steering knuckle (and install if it is being replaced) with wheel bearing grease. Lightly lube the axle shaft and interior contact surfaces of the steering knuckle with wheel bearing grease.

• Thoroughly grease the needle bearing at the rear of the hub assembly (opposite the wheel studs) with a high temperature wheel bearing grease.

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• Remove the series of washers behind the snap ring; (1) circular, (1) hex, (1) circular (in that order). Clean the washers and set aside.

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• Inspect the large o-ring located behind the wheel hub in the steering knuckle. If it is not damaged, it may reused and there is no reason to remove it. Clean any dirt/debris from inside the steering knuckle.

• Remove the large snap ring from the 4 wheel drive locking hub by pressing each tab inwards towards each other, then pulling outwards over the hub.

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• Remove the 4 wheel drive locking hub by pulling outwards; the hub may be tight, but there is no longer any mechanical connection securing it to the hub. Rock side-to-side while pulling outward if hub is difficult to remove. If hub is damaged during removal, it should be replaced.

The following parts list includes all necessary and recommended replacement items in addition to optional/replace as needed parts for servicing a wheel hub assembly on a 1999 to 2004 four wheel drive F-250/F-350/F-450/F-550 Super Duty. Refer to "remarks" column for additional information on the listed part.

• Reinstall the brake rotor, followed by the brake caliper bracket; use high strength threadlocker on the brake caliper bracket bolts.

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Four wheel drive 1999 to 2004 Ford F-250/F-350/F-450/F-550 Super Duty models feature a sealed, non-serviceable front wheel hub assembly. Unlike a traditionally wheel hub, the bearings and bearing races cannot be removed and replaced. Instead, the entire wheel hub is removed and replaced as an assembly. The replacement process is not terribly difficult or time consuming, but the hub assemblies are somewhat expensive. Although replacing the wheel hubs in pairs is ideal, it is not required and you only really need to replace one if it is found to bad. A failed hub will generally present itself with a growling noise coming from the front of the vehicle that changes with vehicle speed (i.e. the sound becomes louder or changes in pitch as vehicle speed increases).

• Remove the brake caliper and hang it from the frame with of piece of wire; do not hang by the brake line. The caliper slide bolts require a 17 mm socket.

[1] Dana 60 axle, includes ABS sensor. [2] Yellow o-ring is included with the replacement wheel hub assembly and seals the outer circumference of the wheel hub to the inner circumference of the steering knuckle. Brown o-ring seals the rear of the wheel hub assembly to the axle shaft plate; it is reusable if not damaged, or is serviced as a kit in 5C3Z-3254-B. [3] Recommended; o-ring can be reused if not damaged, but a leak will cause the automatic locking hub function to fail. [4] Studs are included with the wheel hub assembly; nuts can be reused if not damaged. [5] (3) washer set; washers can be reused if not damaged. [6] Can be reused; replace if damaged. [7] A high temperature NLGI #2 wheel bearing grease is required to lubricate the wheel hub needle bearings and various o-rings prior to installation. Most high temp wheel bearing grease is red in color, although there are exceptions.