2006 Toyota Camry 2.4L engine. 105,000 miles. Is now a good time to change water pump as a proactive maintenance? When water pump is changed, is draining and refilling the engine coolant a part of job? Some shops list engine coolant as one of the parts in water pump replacement. If draining and refilling coolant is part of water pump replacement, I wouldn’t want to sound like I want to two jobs to a mechanic. One mechanic quoted $300 for water pump change and coolant drain/refill.

Mainly if it is an internal water pump (WP) driven by a timing belt you do replace both the WP and timing belt (and all belts if worn), but the OP’s WP is an external WP driven by the serpentine belt and like Tester said, unless something wrong with it, no need…

Yes, this right here. There is little reason to change a pump that is not leaking unless it would puke coolant all over a brand new timing belt and/or cause a bunch of duplicate labor.

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If the problem wheel hub can be narrowed down to at least one axle, time will be saved. If not, the next test should be done on each wheel.

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Since you have a timing chain, I would not replace the pump unless there is a problem. It could last for years, and changing it could cause other problems, including replacing it with a short-lived pump. Happened to me last year with front end components - replace both sides just to be sure, and the ‘good’ side replacement went out in 2 weeks.

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Performing maintenance that’s not needed can cause problems, too. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve had to redo something that I didn’t do just right the first time. Wonder if these “proactive maintenance” people are aware of that?

Safely lift the car and remove the tire and wheel. Then, rock the hub (via the hub itself) with hands on the top and bottom (12:00 and 6:00 o’clock). If there is any give back and forth (towards or away from the car), the bearing is likely bad.

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There’s others who are members who are much more knowledgeable and will undoubtedly reply as well. The only time I’ve heard of proactively changing out a water pump is when another piece, like the timing belt, requires replacement. The primary reason being that most of the labor for a pump replacement has to be done anyway and it’s relatively little additional cost (just for the parts). When I’ve had water pumps replaced in the past, I had warning (it starts leaking coolant) and didn’t cause any other engine damage. If your Toyota is similar in that regard, I don’t see the benefit in changing it before showing symptoms of trouble. If you’re replacing the water pump, you might as well replace the coolant. I wouldn’t be surprised if the owner’s manual recommends a coolant change at 100K anyway.

long w/ the above, ask your shop if it would make sense to also replace the thermostat, the radiator cap, and the water pump drive belt at the same time… I’d probably do that if I was doing a pump replacement on my Corolla.

It starts with a noise. With the radio on and wind from the windows, it’s easy to ignore at first. But the more miles you drive, that subtle noise grows to a metal on metal grinding sound you can’t ignore.

The chain on these motors drives the crankshaft and the camshafts. The water pump is on the serp belt, and is easy to get to.

You might notice other signs as well, including wobbly steering or uneven wear on your tires. These are all signs of your wheel bearing going bad, and they should all be taken seriously. Otherwise, you may end up losing the wheel while driving, which could be catastrophic.

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If I was going to do an optional water pump replacement job like this, I’d wait until summer to do it. That way you won’t end up stranded on the road from a leaky water pump install in the middle of winter. That’s the kind of thing you want happening in June or July if it has to happen Yes, new water pumps can leak or be otherwise defective right out of the box.

Two other problems that are often left undiagnosed when wheel bearings repeatedly fail are a worn bearing hub and transient current flow through the knuckle. If the bearings were grinding or otherwise making their failure known for any period of time, it’s likely that the bearing hub took some damage. When removed, it will show signs of scraping or dimpling. It may also be out of round. Any of these means the hub should be replaced.

Premature wear can also be caused by transient current flow, which is the friction created by faulty electrical grounds which allow current to build up on the moving parts of the chassis. Vehicles build up static electricity during operation and this is usually dissipated by the vehicle’s ground points. Bad ground points = bad news.

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Typically, these sorts of long-term wear-and-tear symptoms will also cause damage to ball joints, tie rods, struts, and other chassis/suspension components.

The most common cause for wheel hub bearing failure is impact. When the tire and wheel hit an object or road defect hard, the bearings can be damaged. Likewise, broken or worn seals can allow moisture or debris into the hub, causing the bearings to deteriorate.

Since you have 100,000 miles. It would be best to replace the drive belt with the water pump. Also coolant drain and fill is a must. I suggest also replacing the spark plugs with OEM plugs. It wouldn’t hurt to service the transmission. I come from a family of 250-300k mile honda/Toyota’s and that’s the key to having a reliable car.

Interesting. I thought most people would just replace the pump if they are doing the belts either way. I am doing the belts on my vehicle soon and seeing how it leaks fluids like crazy, I’m thinking about just leaving the original pump in and just replacing the tensioner(that’s actually making a noise)

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You don’t replace a water pump as preventive maintenance. But replace it if it shows a problem such as leaking from the weep hole on the water pump or noise.

OP was asking about the WP only, not timing belt/chain or even serp belt… Now if I was already replacing the WP due to failing, then I would also replace the serp belt if worn any… But not the other way around…

The symptoms of a bad wheel bearing are relatively straightforward: You’ll hear a grinding noise until you’re driving fast enough that road noise masks it (50mph and faster). The noise indicates metal-on-metal rubbing at a fast rate and comes from the faulty bearings scraping against their housing and, worse, the wheel hub around them.

In all, a vehicle’s wheel hub failure is most likely caused by something other than the hub. Fixing the hub failure is relatively simple (especially with GMB’s quality bearings and hub assemblies), but diagnosing the cause of the failure may not be as easy.

When water pump is changed, other than coolant drain/refill, is there anything else I should consider getting replaced in the nearby vicinity? The car has timing chain (not timing belt) which to my understanding doesn’t require replacement. Your advises are appreciated.

Simply listening to the wheel hubs as someone drives the vehicle can indicate which one is bad. With someone driving at 10-20 miles per hour, listen carefully to the grinding sound so you can pinpoint which wheel the noise is coming from.

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If/when you decide to change out the water pump, suggest to do a coolant drain and refill too. As the engine runs and time goes by the coolant can get a little contaminated , its pH lowers and becomes more acidic, and can lose some of its anti-corrosive protection. Contaminated coolant can damage internal engine gaskets. So it makes $$$ sense to replace the coolant at the same time. Keep the old drive belt in the trunk in case you need it someday, an on the road emergency.

with a mirror like that it is possible to inspect the weep hole at the bottom of the water pump. If there is a trail of coolant or even a significant trail of dried, crusted coolant a new water pump would be worth considering.

Luckily, bearings aren’t difficult to replace, and most modern vehicles use either bolt-in or pressed-in bearings. With the right tools, you can perform this replacement by yourself:

I would just change the coolant. If it’s the original it’s 5,000 miles and/or 4 years overdue. Re. preventive maintenance I would also change the thermostat and radiator cap. with OEM parts.

In a shop, there are several methods for finding bad wheel hub bearings, including directional microphones or ultrasound. In the do-it-yourself mechanic’s garage, however, simpler methods, though more time consuming, are just as effective.

The wheel bearings reside between the steering knuckle and the hub itself, packed between the outer bearing seal and the CV joint. Removing and replacing these bearings requires a press made specifically for the job and each vehicle will be slightly different. Attempting to “pound out” the bearings with a screwdriver or other tool will result in serious damage to the vehicle’s hub and/or knuckle. The upside is that when pressed-in bearings require replacement, they are removed and replaced in one piece units that come pre-sealed and lubricated.

A few weeks ago, he replaced the radiator, water pump, thermostat and ALL of the coolant hoses on his 10 year old car, because he was preparing to take a big road trip