All fan rotor types can vary from bad to very good; all of them. It’s as usual a matter of implementation; what went with design, prime materials, manfacturing processes. If you just -had- to pick the best out of all of them? i) you’d need to keep in mind and never forget that this only applies to the ““PC”” category? ii) that while exceptional a design, its implementation thus far is… lacking?

Can you drive on a bad wheel bearingwhile driving

if one has time to waste so as to save a few bucks, by all means. Long as we do not invalidate the facts that one choses to ignore (because they can and good for them) or bypass/sidestep/risk.

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Good evening; Am not arguing; on the contrary, am putting some effort into helping you grasp that; each post addressed to you begins with an intro so as to showcase that

This is accurate and it has to be expensive. Its not your typical magnet. It has to deal with the heat of the fan hub which demagnetizes normal materials

Thermalright has some good fans and they are mostly sleeve. Scythe fans are also good. Noctua fans I would never consider unless I get them with a cooler (and I like Noctua coolers); I have no problem with their brown color scheme, it’s just that the fans are too expensive for what they offer in terms of performance and even noise metrics.

Also I dont watch Jayz… GN is a better source overall even if its dry and frequently boring. Our overlords are also good but they dont spit out content at the pace of LTT or even GN

I stopped spending more than $20 for a single fan a long time ago because it’s simply not worth it. Personally I have fallen in love with the Phanteks PH-F120MPs (original version) since they are very quiet even at full speed and cool really well in the 1000-1500 rpm range compared to others. I threw out my ML120s in favor of those since I found them quieter and better performers at similar rpm ranges compared to the Corsairs (and the ML120s are very good fans). The 140mm versions (PH-F140MP) are not that great but still serviceable. Both versions can be mounted horizontally with no issues.

How longcan you drive on a bad wheel bearing

2. It Causes More Damage Ignoring the issue doesn’t make it go away—it makes it worse. A bad bearing can strain other components like the hub assembly, CV joint, and even the suspension system. The longer you drive with the problem, the more expensive the repairs become.

I don’t know, some times I just sound like an ass, even when I don’t want to. I am not trying to, it just happens sometimes. I am a bit enthusiastic, because some people have dismissed Arctic on the basis of “they are cheap, so how good can they be” and “if they were good, the tech media would talk about it”, not understanding the tech media sits on their asses and wait for review samples of everything. Arctic started sending review samples here and there and what do you know, turns out their stuff is pretty good, but nobody knew about it.

What about when the quality is the same, but you buy either 1 BeQuiet or 5 Arctic? PS: Sorry, I’m in a bit of a mood today. I will stop, cause I feel I am getting annoying…

I will disagree with that. I don’t buy a fan to put it in an expensive equipment and what not. I buy it to put in on a case and cool some hardware. So I would expect a fan testing at least in the “media” to be focused on putting a fan on a damn case and cooling some damn PCs. No, even GN are buying expensive hardware. Their CPU coolers reviews doesn’t include CPUs in any ways. It’s absolutely worthless…

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Also I dont watch Jayz… GN is a better source overall even if its dry and frequently boring. Our overlords are also good but they dont spit out content at the pace of LTT or even GN

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Regular inspections and maintenance are key to avoiding wheel bearing issues. Keep an eye on your tires, ensure proper wheel alignment, and avoid driving through deep water or mud, which can allow moisture to infiltrate the bearings. Catching minor issues early can save you a lot of hassle—and money.

Woooow, he really said that? I mean I can watch the video, but… Ok, here’s the thing: I have about 10 fans. I know this ain’t a huge pool but they are all fluid bearing and they are all a decade old. Maybe he is talking about the overpriced Corsair or whatever fans he has been given as marketing, but I bought mine cheap from the store and fluid bearings are amazing.

A long run to get back into the topic and my original reply, which is “bearing/rotor type don’t matter”. Only implementation does.

Add Arctic to the picture and you won’t have to spend 30$ for a fan… Fractal Design ancient Silent Series R2 are insanely quiet even after a decade in my case. And I don’t clean very often cause lazy…

A bad wheel bearing doesn’t fail silently—it sends you signals. Recognizing these signs early can save you from costly repairs and dangerous situations:

Yeah, I also prefer GN and L1, but Jay has some experience in building computers as well, especially when using a custom loop. Furthermore, he also analysed the New World frying 3090s which GN did not do due to time and resource constraints.

That’s what i pay for; again, personally. Because some fans, you gotta dismantle the whole PC to replace them and frankly this isn’t a hobby for me. It’s just that from a certain quality and above, you naturally get other consequent benefits, be they in regard to pure DB or performance.

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How long willa wheel bearinglast after it starts making noise

Now as for fans. I have used many over the years and have a couple of boxes full of all sorts of PC fans. I have sleeve bearing fans that are more than a decade old and still work like new. That thing that I found kills fans the most is dust, so clean them out every once in a while.

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GN is a better source overall even if its dry and frequently boring. Our overlords are also good but they dont spit out content at the pace of LTT or even GN

Do you know the reason for the difference in both opinions? Or has the market changed that drastically from 2012, when the GN article was written by Steve.

Since I have built a new PC in December and also bought seven SilverStone SST-AB-120R I immediately googled the life expectancy of fluid bearing fans and stumbled over this article by GamersNexus:

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For Performance-to-longevity, Noctua IPCs. Disadvantage is noise. For Performance only, shit as shit can be, i just want “bestest” performance, EK vardars. Disadvantages are noise and longevity. For Performance-to-noise, the new Noctuas that only come in 120s. Disadvantage is pricing (worth it though) and colouration for some. For performance-to-noise at 140 until Noctua gets its butt in gear, the Gentle Typhoons (can still be found). Disadvantage is lack of PWM mode for most models. For low noise above all else, BeQuiet, the expensive ones, Shadow Rock or whatever. Disadvantages are low performance and issues when driven through PWM, too high impedance when daisy-chained. You’d need a good external controller (Aquaero) or they will suffer; even if you’ll never know of it.

The only way to really test a fan is with a special chamber, running some very expensive equipment attached to it and that’s assuming you know how to use them.

Essentially I would just look at how it performs (noise vs. temperature mostly) and go from there. Because realistically how important is longevity in a fan really? Unless it’s a complete crapshoot it will probably last you 2 or 3 PCs minimum, and personally that’s not worth my time doing research.

The differences in case fan bearings, sleeve vs. ball bearings, fluid (hydro) dynamic, and which is best for gaming computers. -

As always in life, feel free to “research” this deeply. If my word means anything to you? Can guarantee you that: i) this is the list you’ll end up with. ii) knowing by such time that the difference is so, so minimal? Your journey wasn’t worth it ^^

Can you drive on a bad wheel bearingreddit

OK, I stopped reading mid post… I am tired of this so I will just say it like that - I am not arguing about quality. I am not saying go buy Aerocool fans or whatever. I will stop posting, cause I thing we are not understanding each other…

I had 2 fans fail. One was a BeQuiet Silent Wings 2 (worked as an exhaust fan sitting in the stream from the CPU cooler) and the other was an Arctic I had in some project of mine that got killed when the regulator controlling it blew up.

I’ve just seen the video of Jay about the difference in fans and noticed him stating that fluid bearing type fans are not that good when it comes to longevity:

Essentially I would just look at how it performs (noise vs. temperature mostly) and go from there. Because realistically how important is longevity in a fan really? Unless it’s a complete crapshoot it will probably last you 2 or 3 PCs minimum, and personally that’s not worth my time doing research. Another issue with that is also that you can only go by historic data from previous models from the same manufacturer, but even that doesn’t mean that the new model is gonna last just as long. And it’s just hard to impossible to find historical failure rates of fans.

The only way to test fans is to put them into a few workstations in an office and see how many years under less than favorable-conditions they last.

The short answer? You shouldn’t. Driving with a bad wheel bearing isn’t just risky; it’s a disaster waiting to happen. Here’s why:

On the meat of the matter, i will repeat that it’s not just* a couple of degrees that dictate my preferences, but mostly the qualitative factor and what it entails, empirically, in the long run. Long run. Will also add as i neglected to last night, that warranty is a factor here as well. Have had fans showing issues well before their warranty expired. You try getting one replaced with zero hassle, close to no time wasted and zero shipping expenses on you. Really, go ahead. See how many companies offer you this.

P.S. Forgot to mention this, though by now you probably won’t see it. The kinder the environment (heat, static, fields, UVs, waves), the more moot the above, should go without saying. Had the privilege or misfortune to test in harsher than average conditions and just took my lessons home, literally

4. It Can Leave You Stranded Wheel bearing failure isn’t the kind of issue that gives you weeks of warning. If the bearing seizes or breaks apart, you could find yourself stuck on the side of the road—possibly with a wheel that’s no longer attached to the car.

I will always watch jayz over GN. I have the capability of obtaining tech data myself if I wanted to listen to a dry long haired dude all day he would be in my sub list. hell no

Can you drive on a bad wheel bearingwithouta

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One user here says sleeves can potentially affect longevity. Seen another user often mention ball bearings and their noise levels. Whereas there are fans out there today with sleeve bearing that will run fine for over a decade and are known for it, or ball bearing fans renowned for their noise-to-performance ratio. Implementation.

A bad wheel bearing might seem like a minor inconvenience at first—a faint humming or grinding sound coming from your wheel. But is it really something you can ignore? While it’s easy to brush off odd noises, driving with a faulty wheel bearing is a gamble that can lead to severe damage and safety risks. We'll explain what wheel bearings do, the signs of trouble, and the potential dangers of ignoring the problem.

There are only three main bearing types: sleeve, ball and maglev. All others are a variation of sleeve which sometimes affects longevity.

Wheel bearingreplacement cost

3. It Wastes Fuel and Tires A wobbly or misaligned wheel caused by a bad bearing increases rolling resistance. This means your car uses more fuel to maintain the same speed. Plus, uneven tire wear shortens the lifespan of your tires, adding another expense.

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There’s no definitive answer, as the lifespan of a failing bearing depends on the severity of the damage and your driving conditions. That said, the moment you notice signs of trouble, it’s best to address the issue immediately. Driving with a bad wheel bearing is a ticking time bomb—one that can go off unexpectedly.

forget “reviews”. The only way to really test a fan is with a special chamber, running some very expensive equipment attached to it and that’s assuming you know how to use them.

Frontwheel bearingnoise symptoms

Seriously people are you recommending fans based on the price? Arctic is quarter the price of vardars and similar performance.

And since i saw the price factor mentioned yet again in one of the following posts… In life you get what you pay for. Or you get what you deserve, based on what you worked for. Period. I don’t split hairs for a measly bucks, i do for higher amounts, sure, but not for a few measly bucks.

True, and that’s why I don’t like discount options. I discount stuff like Cooler Master and Thermaltake fans, cause they aren’t anywhere near any decent level of fans. Even something like Enermax TB fans, that had the fan controller integrated in the fan itself have uses.

The thing with fans is really quality/longevity, goes into noise too. As stated above, the differences in performance or raw DBs can be minimal up to 1500ish. However, given enough time, you’ll find rattles and whines starting to be audible when none were before. You might hear the distintive sound of the fan powering down before powering back up, even though you run it stable. You will almost assuredly find its sound signature having changed over the first 6 months. Being generous here, many overhyped fans start sounding even shittier even sooner, but you get the idea.

The so-called ‘magnetic levitation’ kind. Sunon proprietary, recently licensed to Corsair and only Corsair. It’s what they use on their ML/maglev fans. Even so, as you just read, only in theory. The implementation lacks.

1. It Compromises Your Safety A faulty wheel bearing can lead to unpredictable handling. You may experience a loss of control, particularly when turning or braking. Worst-case scenario? The bearing could fail completely, causing the wheel to detach. That’s not a chance you want to take on busy roads.

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That’s where he should have remained IMO. All the “reviews” he’s doing in the last what… 2? 3? years bring nothing new to the table and I never felt like he knows his stuff. It’s the same garble that every outlet does just in less detail. I enjoyed watching his watercooling stuff but he just kinda gave up on that.

Temporary fix forbad wheel bearing

to be honest i found that fan orientation and spindle type to be 2 of the biggest deciders on where to put fans. fdb should only be mounted horizontally. mounted vertically the spindle sinks throught he fluid and rests on the metal of the housing when the fan is turned off. as a result you get wearing on the spindle as the fan spins up and down during power cycles. same issue with maglev except when there’s no current the spindle sinks in the housing.

Fixing a bad wheel bearing isn’t a DIY job. It requires specialized tools, precise measurements, and a lot of expertise. Our professional can inspect the bearing, determine the extent of the damage, and replace it if needed. The good news? Replacing a wheel bearing is a relatively straightforward repair when caught early.

Arctic never impressed me tbh. There’s better for any category one might be focused on. And when better amounts to a few measly bucks more, why settle?

I did, it almost cut my finger off… The arctic fans are of the quality of Noctua and BeQuiet. Even their old series is super good. I have used a bunch of cheap crap fans before and since I started using Arctic I haven’t bought another fan brand. I don’t know. I don’t believe a fan of 25 euros can give me so much more, to skip my 5 euros fan that I am absolutely happy with.

It seems like I have started a more heated discussion here than I ever expected, I wasn’t even sure if I would get an answer but all these various opinions are appreciated

At its core, a wheel bearing is a small but critical component located at the hub of your wheel. Its job? To allow your wheel to rotate while supporting the vehicle’s weight. This part consists of steel balls or rollers encased in a metal ring, lubricated to reduce friction.

Since they’re designed to handle heavy loads and high speeds, wheel bearings are built tough. But they’re not invincible. Over time, wear and tear, poor road conditions, and even moisture can take a toll, leading to damage or failure.

Anyway though to he topic… “Fluid bearing” is also a very broad description since every manufacturer kinda does their own thing and call it differently. In the past when I was researching fans for a bit before a purchase I tried looking up the few different names various manufacturers use and all it turned up was the respective manufacturer’s website. There’s not really any one “standard” fluid bearing. What I’m getting at is that IMO you can’t judge by the type of bearing, but only specific manufacturer’s implementations.

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