201864 — It was just over $400.00 to replace both front bearings. This was at an independent shop. Dealer would likely be at least $50 to 100 more.

Now tie a knot into the end of the rope you've bought, and then start to feed it all into the combustion chamber through the spark plug hole.

Now to actually remove the cam belt, you need to unbolt the cam belt tensioner. This is found between the alternator and the engine just behind the outer part of the crankshaft pulley. I tried to get a pic, but it's also just above the anti roll bar, which kinda get's in the way but it's the black cylindrcal bit slightly to the right of the middle of the pic.

Jun 26, 2021 — Timkin bearings are made in the US and in China. Generally a good bearing but so are FAG and SKF. SKF makes bearings in the US as well.

文章主要介绍了三维软件之间交换3D CAD数据的方法，以及SOLIDWORKS 2021的3D Interconnect功能。该功能可以直接在SOLIDWORKS中打开其他三维软件的模型数据，而无需将其转成中间格式再打开。SOLIDWORKS 2021的3D Interconnect可以读取第三方CAD文件更多的附加信息，如装配体切除特征、自定义属性、材料属性等。此外，SOLIDWORKS 2020及之后的版本中，通过3D Interconnect可以直接将部分第三方CAD文件或中间格式CAD文件直接插入或者拖动到活动的SOLIDWORKS零件或装配体文件中，而无需先打开，再保存，再利用。随着SOLIDWORKS版本的更新，软件的自动修复能力也越来越强。

I just moved this to the FAQs and then realised Tony hadn't finished So I put it back. Hopefully this hasn't wrecked anything

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As I'm not removing the cam belt, to help me get it back onto the cam gears in the place I took it off, I marked the cam gears and the belt like this:-

Oils with a viscosity of 40 to 100 mm2/s at 40 °C (105 °F) are typically used as are oils with EP additives which are preferable, especially for roller bearings ...

Valve packing types

Baker Bearing Company Distributor Login Cart 800-875-6211 Inventory Search · INVENTORY SEARCH · Products · Ball Bearing · Roller Bearing · Deep Groove Ball ...

Now if the nuts come off, but the washers underneath won't move, try gently prying them off with a flat bladed screw driver. If that doesn't work, the next step of aggresion involves a hammer and the same screw driver. Using the screw driver (Or even a flat punch if you have one!) gently tap the washers around. They'll eventually start to turn, and then you can unscrew them. (The plastic bit melts around the thread of the stud, and forms it's own little thread - hence why it's difficult to just pull them off)

To stop the adjustable spanner dinking the head when you try to undo the bold, wedge a piece of paper towel between the spanner and the head. The camgears are done up to 79Nm (59 ft-lbf) so are pretty tight. You may need to get some extra leverage like a breaker bar or something. Here's the exhaust side off :-

Ball Joints; Tie Rod Ends; Sway Bar Links; Drag Links and Center Links; Idler Arms; Pitman Arms; U-Joints ...

Mine were recently replaced so were nice and supple, if you've not replaced yours recently they'll be hard and will more than likely split.

Wheel bearings normally allow the wheels to rotate smoothly, but if they are worn out or damaged, they can produce a grinding noise, especially when turning.

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Again keep the individual caps and their bolts together (sandwich bags are ideal) Don't worry too much about labelling them as they're stamped with their number on top, along with and arrow that points towards the front of the engine.

The first thing to do is to remove the no.1 bearing caps. There's 4 bolts that you'll need a 10mm socket for. Undo them uniformly, and remove the bearing caps. If the caps are difficult to remove you can prise them with a flat bladed screwdriver. Again wrap the tip in tape so as not to scratch the head. Keep the individual caps and their bolts together so you're not mixing up bolts and caps.

Now the problem is if you remove the valve locks and the retainer now, the valve will drop into the combustion chamber, and you'll need to take the head off to get it back. I'm choosing, if you've not guessed already, to use as someone eloquently put it "the rope trick".

It's got 5 pipes attaced to it and is held against the inlet cam cover by a spring clip. Once I'd undone the 5 clamps, it was fairly easy to shuffle it out. Be careful as the pipe above it runs to the heater matrix, so don't yank it around too much as you don't want to split the matrix as it's a dashboard out job to replace it.

Next the coil packs. There's 2 bolts for each coil pack. 3 coil packs. As I removed each one I marked them so I could match them back to the cylinder they came from:-

Mine were recently replaced so were nice and supple, if you've not replaced yours recently they'll be hard and will more than likely split.

Once these have been removed you can start to remove the cover. It's a right git because of it's shape, and also it hits the lower timing belt cover. I gently prised the lower cover and with pushed the cover to the LHS of the car. Eventually after some wriggling around it came free:-

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You'll also need some gasket sealant. I bought the Toyota stuff which was a little expensive to say the least, but hell, I've got it now so...

Valvestempacking replacement

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There may be some remnants of the seal packing gasket type gunk on the camcovers and the head near the front of the engine. You should be able to just pick it off it's the black blob to the lower right of this pick:-

To do this what you need to do is set the cylinder you're working on to somewhere round about bottom dead centre. It doesn't have to be too precise.

Th real pain here is getting to the last two bolts on the outside of each cam-cover, and the two nuts on the inside near no.6 cylinder. The problem is that the air tube that feeds air to the idle air control valve gets in the way. It has to be removed!

The valve spring compreses, and the retainer moves down the valve with it. However the valves not moving, which means there's no load on the valve locks, and the magnet in the tool whips them out the way. When the spring un-compreses, there's no locks to hold the valve retainer in place any more, so the retainer becomes free as-well. (And incidentally get's grabbed by the magent also)

To make sure I didn't get things mixed up, I got an egg box, and used that to keep each valves bucket and shim organised:-

I didn't get any pics of this bit (actually I'll own up and admit I forgot to line up the marks - doh!) but what you want to do is line up the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley to the 0 timing mark on the no.1 timing belt cover (It's down the bottom - I'll try and get a pic tomorrow and insert it here!) Hopefully the timing marks on the cam-gears and on the no.4 timing belt cover line up. If they don't give the crank a full rotation (360 degrees) it should now line up.

I marked the backs of both camgears with which side they cam from just so I can get them back on in the same order as they came off. I don't think it would really matter if you swapped them over though. Here's the inlet camgear:-

Valvestempacking material

Now before I removed the cam covers I tidied around a little. I undid the accelerator and cruise control cables, and tied them out of the way:-

To find approximately bottom dead centre (BDC) I gently put a long (maybe about 9 inches or more) screw driver down the spark plug hole, and then turned the crankshaft untill the screwdriver stopped moving down and started to move back upwards. Here's a pic of it st approximately BDC:-

Now turn the crank shaft gently untill it you feel resistance. This is the rope being compressed between the top of the piston and the bottom of the head and the valves. This will then stop the valves from dropping into the combustion chamber when you remove the locks and retainers. Genius.

OK so now it's time to remove the cam gears. You'll need a 17mm socket for the bolt on the front of the camgears, and I used an adjustable spanner to hold the camshaft in place. Toyota very kindly gave us a perfect hex halfway down the camshaft to grip the camshafts:-

With the cam covers off, now's a pretty good time to measure the shim clearances. The gap between the inlet cam and the valve shims should be between 0.15-0.25mm (0.006-0.010 in) and on the exhaust side they should be between 0.25-0.35mm (0.010-0.014 in) If they're outside of these tolerances then make a note of which shim on which cylinder and also what value you measured with the feeler gauge. Mine were between 0.15 and 0.2 mm on the inlet and 0.25 and 0.3 mm on the exhaust - perfect.

Loosen the inner of the two bolts before loosening the outers. I did mine over 3 passes. As I was undoing them there was a little "clunk" as the springs under comrpression released.

So now you need to undo the remaining caps. These need to be done in order. I've got a paper-copy of the order to remove them in which I'll try to scan in. In the mean time, if you look closely at the top of the remaining caps, you'll see they have numbers. 2-7.

Next remove the timing belt cover. There's 3 allen bolts. You'll need the 5mm allen key again. There's one in the middle:-

You'll need to make a modification the valve tool (which is used to remove and install the valve keepers) In stock form it is knurled. Thus needs to be removed otherwise it can scratch the head around the bucket bore. I turned mine down on a lathe at work. The tool actually comes in two main bits:-

So first of all, you need to remove the spark plug cover. Now if you're struggling at this stage, I suggest you get someone else to do it for you....

Sliding-stem Control Valve

Valvestempacking

edited to say turn crankshaft - not camshaft - the camshaft is no longer in the car so turning it will do no good whatsoever!

Bearing cages, also known as bearing retainers or separators, are a critical component in many rolling element bearings, such as ball bearings and roller ...

Valvestemseals

So now it was possible to remove the actual valve seals using the valve stem seal pliers. The inlet side was quite difficult to pull out, but after a good pull it finally pried free.

So now you'll be ready to remove the locks and retainers. You'll be using the valve tool to do this. However I found that the diameter was slightly too large, so I placed a washer onto the end of it (it's got a strong magnet inside it by the way - this is what "grabs" the valve locks) Also now's a very good point to take some paper towel and place it anywhere where any small parts could fall down. In particular the oilways between the valves.

So you'll now be pretty close to removing the buckets and shims. I tried to lift them out by hand, but they were covered in oil, so I couldn't get a good grip. So I resorted to using some large adjustable pliers and taped over the jaws so as not to scratch the buckets. It was then easy to pull the buckets out with the shims still sat on top of them. Here's a couple of pics of them seperated:-

They take a little bit of maneouvring to get them out, but be persistance and they'll eventually come. If they're particularly stubborn, first try giving them a good whack with a plastic faced mallet. If you still have no joy, gently lever then with a flat bladed screw-driver. To avoid scratching the head, wrap the end of the screw-driver with tape.

There's two bolts which you'll need a 10mm socket. I found it was easiest to momentarily unbolt the hose lines that run just under the tensioner (The bolts to the left of the middle of the pic, and another bolt on the lh side of the engine). I then used about 9-12 inches of extension bars to get to the bolts. Undo them evenly. Here's a pic of tensioner once removed :-

So you're getting close to removing the cam belt. However you also want to be able to put the timing belt back on, and not have to mess around with having to set the timing. Luckily to help us with doing this Toyota have put timing marks on the cam gears, the no. 1 and 4 timing belt covers and the crankshaft pulley.

Again these will tend to go hard and brittle with age, and will tend to dissintegrate on contact so best to order a replacement set first.

A Ford F-150 Wheel Bearing Replacement costs between $164 and $188 on average. Get a free detailed estimate for a repair in your area.

To do this it's easiest if you remove the spark plugs, if you haven't done it already when setting up the timing marks earlier on. (You'll need a 16mm spark plug socket to remove the spark plugs)

Unfortunately I just had enough time to remove 1 to take a pic for you, sorry about the quality, I'll take some better ones tomorrow when I do the others and get a couple of shots of what they look like before they're removed.

Next you need to remove the no.4 cambelt cover. There's 4 bolts. One either side of the camshafts and 1 each side a little lower down. You'll need a 10mm socket for these.

Once you've got that little lot, you can be sure that the things that are to be quite honest more than likely to break or leak or just need replacing is covered. So I guess the first thing is to get on with the job.....

When you put those cams back and the end seal caps put some good sealant round them as if not all your oil is gonna piss out past them even with new seals, which i strongly recommend.