Joe Simes is an ASE and Toyota master technician. After 20 years in the industry, Simes recently became a Pennsylvania Department of Education certified automotive technology instructor at North Montco Technical Career Center in Lansdale, Pennsylvania.

If you notice an unusual noise coming from your wheel at moderate speeds, a few things could be wrong. Your lugs could not be tight, your brakes may be dragging, or your wheel bearing may be bad. It is often hard to diagnose a noise at moderate speeds, but if you have inspected your brakes and checked your lug nuts, which are both good, you most likely have a bad wheel hub.

According to Simes, a failing wheel bearing will likely produce a soft, faint vibration that’s felt before it’s heard. There may also be a vague rhythmic humming or droning sound that increases over time and with speed.

Unlike unbalanced tires, shaking caused by a bad wheel bearing should be obvious from the side of the car where the bearing is failing.

Read on to learn the most common bad wheel bearing symptoms, based on my experience (50 years in the industry) and that of Joe Simes, a National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE) certified and Toyota master technician. But first, a little background.

A bad wheel bearing can cause a tire/wheel to move or glide unevenly or sluggishly. It can also cause your brakes to drag, pulling your vehicle to one side when you try to stop.

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But sealed wheel bearings are non-serviceable and should never be repaired, only replaced. Even if a pro suggests repairing a bearing, don’t let them. Trying to reuse a damaged wheel bearing can result in an accident and severe injury.

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You can service or replace tapered wheel bearings yourself. Never reuse any wheel bearing that’s loose, worn, noisy or shows any signs of wear.

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Absolutely not. It’s crucial to get bad wheel bearings diagnosed and replaced ASAP. If not, you could lose a wheel or get in an accident.

The average cost to replace a sealed wheel hub bearing is $350 per wheel. However, depending on the make and model, shop labor rate, the cost of the bearing itself and any additional damage, the total could exceed $1,000.

NOTE: Whether you DIY or your mechanic replaces the bearing, always install a new axle hub nut. Most hub nuts are prevailing torque fasteners, used on critical components (like securing axle shafts to hub bearings) where a loose nut could lead to disastrous consequences.

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Depending on the vehicle, you can save hundreds in labor replacing wheel bearings yourself. Most auto parts stores will lend you the specialty tools and equipment needed to replace a wheel bearing.

On many vehicles, the ABS sensor is built into the wheel bearing, or it’s externally mounted adjacent to the spinning part of the bearing where the sensor measures vehicle speed. Damaged from a wobbly wheel bearing, the sensor will send erratic readings to the vehicle’s computer, illuminating the ABS light.

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A metal-on-metal screeching at low speeds is usually diagnosed as brake pads that need to be replaced. While this is the reason in many cases, if you know your brakes are new or don’t need to be replaced, you can usually narrow it down to your wheel hub. A wheel hub that has lost its grease and is wearing the bearings with no lubrication will produce a loud metal-on-metal sound at low speeds.

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Simply stated, wheel bearings allow cars and trucks to run smoother and more efficiently by reducing friction and supporting vehicle weight. When they start to fail, you can usually tell.

If your wheel bearing has begun to wear down and metal-on-metal contact without enough grease to lubricate it properly, you will experience vibrations in your steering wheel. As the metal bearings start to wear down, there will be more play in the wheel bearing, causing them to vibrate.

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You’ll hear clicking, cracking, grinding, snapping, or whining noises coming from your wheels or tires. They’ll increase when accelerating or turning.

On modern front- and four-wheel drive cars, wheel bearings are a set of permanently sealed, precisely machined steel ball or straight roller bearings. The balls, or rollers, are encased in a “cage” that supports the bearings, allowing them to rotate freely.

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Lastly, if your Anti-Lock Brake Light or Traction Control Light illuminates and you are experiencing vibrations in your steering wheel, you most likely have a bad wheel bearing. In most modern cars, a wheel bearing that has gone bad will cause the system to trip. This will cause an ABS speed sensor code to be stored and your dash light to illuminate to indicate that you have an issue.

Vulcanization Process - All Hub Assemblies go through a vacuum vulcanization process to enhance the structural integrity of the seal and rubber components.

Friction from a failing wheel bearing produces heat. After driving, without touching the tires or wheels, carefully walk around your vehicle and use a non-touch thermometer to measure if one is hotter than the others.

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The cage and rollers are held together inside a hardened metal ring called a “race.” The seal keeps grease in and damaging water and debris out. Wheel bearings are installed inside, and secured to, the suspension, either by press fit, bolts or a snap-ring. Once mounted, the wheel bearing rides on the axle shaft, allowing the tire/wheel to spin effortlessly.

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A wheel hub, or wheel bearing, is a component that keeps your wheel attached to your vehicle while allowing the wheels to turn freely for safe steering. This is also vital to a vehicle’s anti-lock braking and traction control systems. The wheel hub bolts to the steering knuckle and allows for a brake rotor and wheel to be attached to it via studs and lug nuts. When your wheel hub goes bad, it can cause various issues that affect your steering and acceleration. Today, we will look at 4 signs of a bad wheel hub.