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Anytime you take a timing cover off, take a quick look at the timing marks, then check for excessive backlash, gear or sprocket wear and belt or chain play. Also check for clogged gear or chain lube drains. High-mileage engines may need a new chain, gears or belt just as a safeguard, before timing failure sets in. Do these checks as part of preventive maintenance.

A noninterference piston relief permits crankshaft rotation without damage whenever a timing error allows the valves to remain open. In most engines, clearance for the error is machined or cast into the piston crown. However, certain combustion chamber designs don't lend themselves to a noninterference design. With these interference-type engines, the valves have no piston relief area, so parts can collide when the cam jumps time.

The condition created by this malfunction concerns the engine's breathing and combustion. Remember, a cylinder's breathing cycle and the piston's stroke are two different events. The intake cycle begins early on the exhaust stroke, as the valve lifts from the seat. This occurs before the crankpin rotation and piston stroke reach top dead center (TDC), and both begin the downward motion of the intake stroke. Also remember that the piston is still on its way up.

If you suspect the engine has been bitten by bent valves, you can often loosen the valvetrain to close the valves manually and perform cylinder leakage tests by introducing filtered, compressed air into each cylinder. If air snakes its way through intake or exhaust manifolds when you check the cylinders, examine the offending cylinder(s) with a borescope for valve and piston damage. If you see any, the engine needs more than timing repairs.

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If no chain or sprocket timing marks are readily available, try rocking the crankshaft back and forth to see how much crankshaft play occurs before the distributor rotor moves. Excessive rotation suggests worn gears, a sloppy chain or a very loose timing belt.

Exhaust gas momentum from the previous combustion cycle scavenges the cylinder through the closing exhaust port. This momentum blows out and helps create a vacuum just as the piston mechanically begins its downward stroke. Next, if properly timed, the exhaust valve closes. Thanks to the duration of this valve overlap, when the engine runs at an efficient speed the air has a head start to fill the cylinder. Inertia filling does so well at a given engine speed that the cam hangs the intake valve open past the crankshaft's bottom dead center (BDC) position. At this point, the piston has stopped its descent, but the air keeps stuffing past the closing intake valve until it's completely shut. Engine compression now has a head start toward a good and turbulent combustion cycle.

Cord strain can happen when a too-tight cam bearing results from improper OHC head bolt tightening or warpage. On some engines, a belt may skip time for no apparent reason. In such a case, a foreign object may be the culprit. So look for ice, slush, stones, etc., beneath the belt cover. If you suspect this has happened, adjust the shielding of the belt as necessary. Though not common, engine backfire can also cause a cam to jump time.

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First, consider a loose timing chain or belt that jumps but doesn't break. Many engines with worn timing devices jump time when they're shut off, which often causes a slight snap-back in engine position as the engine ceases rotation. Normally, a chain or belt device allows this torque reversal without harm. But when worn parts allow crankshaft backlash without tightly bringing the cam along with it, the timing jumps. This timing error then causes a no-start or poor engine performance the next time the engine is cranked.

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If the crankshaft rotates freely, reinstall the spark plugs, then start the engine. Run it for 20 to 30 minutes, then shut it down and readjust the belt tension.

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When you inspect belts, do so carefully, and never twist them more than 90/. Examine the drive teeth closely for cracking at the base, where the teeth join the belt body. Check the entire belt length for signs of ply separation or missing teeth. Also, look for loose cords. Sometimes tensile cord breaks result from engine malfunction and excessive strain on the belt.

Inspect timing belts carefully. These belts contain very strong fiberglass cords that support the bite of precision-molded teeth. Rubber-impregnated fabric covers belt teeth for extra abrasion resistance. Handle belts carefully. While timing belts are tough, they're also delicate. For example, if you bend a timing belt severely, its internal cords can break. Also, avoid hanging new timing belts on a hook or rack, or just stuffing them into a sack. Leave that snake in the box until you're ready to put it into an engine.

Stories told by some of your customers may sound a little like snake encounters-especially those in which belts, sprockets, gears and chains play an important part. Balance shafts, accessory items and serpentine paths also may contribute to these tales of woe. And each story warns of the same danger-slippery snakes of engine timing error.

Approach a timing problem with caution. When you think a cam timing malfunction has occurred, don't assume a simple chain, gear, sprocket or belt replacement is all that's necessary. The timing error could have caused internal engine damage, especially to the valves and pistons.

The precise timing of the piston and valves continues similarly through all four cycles. And this timing is closely calculated to provide efficient engine operation. If the cam loses valve timing just a few degrees, however, your customer will notice a severe power loss or a no-start condition. Engine damage may occur, as well. What kind of damage and how much depends on the engine design.

When installing a belt, never use a prybar or screwdriver to get it onto the pulleys or internal cord damage can result. New belts will be a bit tighter than the old ones, so back off the adjustment a little more, if necessary.

If you need to install a belt on an engine that jumped time and the carmaker does not specify exact replacement procedures, first carefully rotate the crankshaft until the No. 1 piston is approximately 45/ BTDC. In this position, the pistons remain slightly lower than TDC. Therefore, no piston-to-valve interference should occur as you rotate the cam to the correct position. But again, if you encounter sudden resistance, stop! The cam position may be causing the valves to hit the pistons. Do not continue until you investigate the cause of the problem or engine damage can result.

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When a cam timing error slithers in, it can arrive from either of two directions: A cam drive either wears and becomes loose and jumps a tooth or more, or it completely breaks. In either case, camshaft timing often rattles a death song and the engine quits.

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How do you know whether you're snakebit by a timing error? First, see if the snake moved! To check valve timing on engines having a distributor that's driven either directly or through the cam, first remove the distributor cap. If you turn the crankshaft by hand in the direction of normal engine rotation and the rotor doesn't move, suspect a completely broken drive. If the rotor moves, however, turn the crankshaft carefully until the timing marks line up at the block. If you encounter hard, sudden resistance, stop immediately. Don't force it. Valves may already be biting into the pistons and you may cause more damage.

If you find no belt or sprocket damage, check the vehicle mileage. Unless a record of recent replacement exists, replace all belts at the interval specified by the carmaker. In the absence of specs, experts recommend replacing timing belts at 60,000-mile intervals.

Recommend replacing parts as necessary, changing gears, sprockets, a chain or belts as a set. Also, when replacing parts, avoid startup-scoring by ensuring that the belt sprocket surface is free of nicks and burrs. Make sure you lube sprocket and gear thrust hubs at assembly, to assure an adequate slip and slide on startup.

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Finally, reinstall the belt cover and let others know you've been on this trail by installing a replacement sticker on the cover. Schedule the customer for a return trip to your shop for a belt tension check. Sometimes a little preventive maintenance can save them from being snakebit again.

You can also confirm a timing problem by checking engine compression. If the valve timing jumps, you'll get little or no compression equally in all cylinders. As a result, the engine often cranks too easily, with little starter current draw.

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Once the belt is seated on the sprockets, use the manufacturer's specs and the proper tools to adjust tension. Afterward, recheck your timing marks and rotate the engine by hand in the normal direction of rotation through two complete revolutions. Feel for interference as you spin it. With the spark plugs removed, you should feel only slight valve spring resistance, pulsations that occur as each valve opens.

Go easy. Once the crank and camshaft positions are set, turn the distributor or injection pump sprocket until it's properly timed. Once you've done this static timing, clean up. Make sure you have good ventilation and clean the sprockets using a nonpetroleum-based cleaner. Apply no belt dressing to the sprocket teeth or the belt.

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If the belt didn't jump time, don't rotate anything just yet. Ensure that your new belt mates with the sprockets precisely and that cam timing hasn't changed. Also make sure the belt has the same pitch length, number of teeth and tooth shape as the one being replaced. Occasionally, you'll find that the width may change from an old belt to a new one. Also, different belts may be used on similar engines in the same production year. Check with your parts supplier if differences arise.

Keeping valve timing on the money is crucial to proper engine performance and longevity. Here are some tips to help you keep everything in sync.

Check for belt wear, damage and needed adjustment during regular service intervals. If mileage dictates, remove the belt cover and inspect the belt for wear at the leading edge of the teeth. Note that even if belt replacement intervals have been faithfully observed, sprocket misalignment can create premature belt failure. Misalignment can occur between crank, camshaft, accessory sprockets, belt tensioners and idler pulleys. These problems often surface after a water pump or accessory has been replaced.

If the engine has no distributor, try gaining access to the crankshaft or cam timing marks through the chain or belt housing. Carmakers often provide a window or removable plug so that you can peer into this snake's nest.

Double-check the ignition timing if it's not computer-controlled. On distributor-equipped engines, you'll often find that someone jacked the timing around trying to make up for the cam drive error. If need be, reset the timing to the carmaker's specs.

Should the engine turn freely by hand and you have easy access, position the crank and check the timing marks on the crankshaft and cam. Also, check any timed accessory drive pulleys. The timing marks won't align if a timing error has occurred. Examine these timing marks closely. Even a single-tooth slip can severely affect engine operation. If in doubt, identify the vehicle on which you're working and check the marks you see against the specs in a manual.