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I hate changing bearings. Did both fronts a few weeks back. The inner part of the bearings tend to get stuck on the hub, had to grind mine off. Tbh, if I didn't already have a press, I would just take the hub somewhere and have them do it for me.

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I hate changing bearings. Did both fronts a few weeks back. The inner part of the bearings tend to get stuck on the hub, had to grind mine off. Tbh, if I didn't already have a press, I would just take the hub somewhere and have them do it for me.

What press capacity would people recommend for changing front wheel bearings and possible beam shafts? Would a 6 tonne press be up to the job for your typical bearing with the odd one it may not shift - or would a 6 tonne press struggle with the majority?

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And lastly, what about front wheel bearings? are they do-able with hand tools? as I have a spare set with siezed bearings that i'd like to make use of at somepoint.

Pressing the new bearing in is reasonably straightforward, it is removing the old one that is more tricky as there is no flat area to sit the upright on to press the outer race out.

The way I do it is to put a big dirty weld round the inner race, leave it to cool and it shrinks in and then allows you to just knock the inner race out with a hammer and chisel.

On the same subject I've got some spare drums (thanks to dave richards for those!) that are from an auto, are the drums the same as I have on my GT? as if so I could minimise down time.

I sent my front hubs to my agri engineer as they needed pressed out and heated up to remove was a pain of a job even for them.

Fronts, again you'll need a press. I've found the biggest ball ache recently with fronts is getting the circlips out, they really corrode into the upright and can be an utter twat to get out.

I've done quite a few of these at work and found that the bearings shift with a lot less weight when they are set up dead level, never had to heat one yet. Normally go with less than 5 tonne. Also I just use a bearing separator to pull the inner race of

The way I do it is to put a big dirty weld round the inner race, leave it to cool and it shrinks in and then allows you to just knock the inner race out with a hammer and chisel.

drums are all the same 30mm with apart from a 1.6 gti, and of course the proper euro rallye which sits on 1.6 running gear.

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Pressing the new bearing in is reasonably straightforward, it is removing the old one that is more tricky as there is no flat area to sit the upright on to press the outer race out.

Regarding the drums, is there a good way of checking bearings before fitting them? As the spare drums I;ve got have bearings in still, is it just a case of fit them then give them a good grab and yank to see if there's any play?

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A front wheel bearing replacement on average takes just over 1 hour, but can take anywhere from under 1 hour to 2 hours. This is because replacing front wheel ...

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I had a usually reliable garage replace a bearing in a base model front wheel bearing. Months later I noticed one brake pad was nearly worn to the the metal.  The other pad was fine. Replaced the pads and the same thing happened. On stripping and checking everything I found the Bendix caliper through (slider) bolts were not parallel and the caliper was sticking on the bolts. Substituted the bolts and checked these were not bent.

Since then I always check the caliper slides freely before a hub goes near a press, tell the garage of my experience and that I'll  be checking the caliper still slides when I get the hub back.

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Tom, I think I am in this same position - With some help from Mei, I finally got a very stubborn circlip out, but both inner races are stuck in the drums and I have no access to a press.  I have tried making up a 'puller' from a spring compressor - see photo - but it won't budge.  I want to try what you suggest - but am confused over the references to welding the inner race (which fell out in pieces).

Finally realised one of the threaded holes in the hub for the caliper bolts was out of alignment. The only possible cause must have been pressing the bearing in or out, probably out. Replaced the hub and the other components work fine.

I need to change a rear wheel bearing, but I havent done one before, will I need a press to get the old one out/new one in or is it possible with hand tools?

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Que people piping up how they've changed front wheel bearings with a hammer, a nicotine patch and a Christmas cracker screwdriver.........

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That's how I tend to do them for ease anyway. Send a thin slitting disc almost through the inner race then a quick smack with a chisel will split the race and off it pops ????

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One thing to note with sourcing bearings, avoid the generic ECP and GSF brands, go for something like SNR, SKF INA, Orbis etc, the likes of Vetech do not last.

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