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Second - you know that "test" that everyone does to check your bearings? You pick your board up and spin a wheel with your hand and see how long until it stops? IT DOESN'T MEAN ANYTHING.

Yes - but not as much as you'd think. 95% of the time, your choice of wheel urethane will make way more of a difference to your speed than your bearings.

The outer races are kept apart by the wheel core - but without a bearing spacer for the inner race, it's easy to overtighten your axles and put uneeded stress on your bearings.

If you've ever blown out a bearing, you'll know the value of a "Swiss" style bearing. If you are hard on your bearings, they're worth looking at - they definitely stay fast for longer.

Most quality skate brands don't even have an ABEC rating. For example, Bones Bearings identify their bearings "skate rated" in a deliberate attempt to emphasise the irrelevance of the ABEC rating.

Rubber shiedls are also much easier to remove for cleaning, which is really the secret to keeping your bearings fast. Some skate bearings have rubber shields one only one side so you don't even need to remove any shields for a quick clean. Perfect!

Titanium is an amazing material - it's way lighter and tougher than steel. Unfortunately, it's very expensive as a raw material, and it's also savagely difficult to machine and form, due to its surface toughness.

"Built In" or BuiltIn" skate bearings are just the same as a regular skate bearing - except that they feature an extended inner race on both the inside and the outside.

Need a better way to get your wheels with bearings spacers on your board without all the faffy alignment? Check this guide out!

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What is static loadaviation

"Swiss" bearings feature a deeper race than your average 608 bearing. This means that the whole bearing is better able to withstand sideloads, making Swiss bearings significantly longer lasting. Some other bearing brands call this type of bearing a "deep groove" race or similar.

Sliding on a longboard, especially on grippy race wheels, puts a lot of sideload through a bearing. Over time you might find that your bearings slow down as the finely-polished races and balls wear in. We recommend some Built In skate bearings if you are doing any skating like this - they last a lot longer.

Snapping, clicking, or popping noises. Growling or rumbling noises. Steering wheel vibrations. How to Test if My Bearing is Bad. Some of these ...

First up - forget the ABEC rating. It's meaningless for skateboard, surfskate, longboard and cruiser board bearings, and is just lazy marketing. Decent companies like Bones Bearings acknowledge this.

No, they aren't. You need to lube them with something, otherwise the super-hard ceramic balls will eat the softer steel races for breakfast.

This question tends to get asked by someone in the shop who is thinking about buying new bearings anyway, and we almost always fail to convince them not to buy some. So if you are asking this question, stop putting off the inevitable, get yourself some fresh bearings, and go skate!

"Swiss" bearings are a special kind of skateboard bearing with a deeper bearing race, and this does not necessarily refer to the place of manufacture. That said, all Bones Swiss bearings are actually made in Switzerland.

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There's a reason that Bones Bearings, the world's best selling bearing company, don't make a shieldless bearing - they're not a good idea.

What is static loadin electrical

They're as good as any other ABEC rated bearing. The ABEC rating isn't really applicable to skateboard bearings - how good a bearing is for skateboarding has little to do with it's ABEC rating.

It can be very counter-intuitive to ignore the marketing and the hype sometimes. But in our experience, spending on really good bearings doesn't really do much for your overall speed. Buying decent wheels or cleaning your existing bearings almost always makes a bigger difference. But hey... we're a shop... if you want to buy some rad fresh bearings, we've got what you need!

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Jumping off stuff on your skateboard is fun and we're not about to stop you doing it. You're probably aware that decks snap and trucks bend after a few big hits - but bearings take just as much of a beating. If you're a heavy hitter then you'll need new bearings more often - check out the Bones Big Balls and Bones Swiss Six bearings.

A wheel that is loose on the axle will give a noisy, chattery ride. Your bearings may roll faster for a session or two, but they will die way quicker as the side-to-side play becomes too much for the bearing to take.

Ceramic is a super-hard wearing material, that in theory just blasts all the dirt and crap out of the bearing as it spins round. It also never rusts!

Bearing spacers are really worth putting in your wheels - they only cost a couple of quid, which is nothing considering that they make your existing bearings last longer and roll faster. And you can use them in any future bearings that you buy. What's not to like?

So, all this considered, our recomendation for most skaters is this: just get a decent set of Chrome Steel bearings with good shields and look after them. Ceramics are nice, but they are a luxury that most will not notice. If you can afford ceramics, you can afford a really awesome set of steel bearings like Bones Swiss Bearings or Super Swiss Six Balls, both of which will outperform cheaper ceramic bearings all day. Spend your pennies on train tickets to the skatepark instead!

In our opinion, taking your shields off is pretty pointless - all that will happen is you will ruin your bearings faster. Yes, they will make a cool noise... but there is no speed increase over a "608ZZ", "608RS", "6082RS" bearing, and you WILL need to lube them ALL THE TIME.

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Normal skate bearings need speed washers (or "speed rings") to stop the bearing from fouling on the axle nut or the hanger face.

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If you skate in the rain a lot, it might be worth having a spare set, so that you can have a set on ice if you don't have time to clean them straight away. Although if you leave a bearing wet for a few hours or overnight, it'll rust solid - so dry them out ASAP!

"Hybrid" Bearings with Ceramic balls and steel races have a problem - Ceramic is around 30% harder than steel, so if you subject the bearing to a really big impact, the balls can actually permanently deform the steel races, leading to slower roll speeds and much faster bearing wear. Full Ceramics are even worse - so prone to cracking, in fact, that in industrial situations they are rated to around 25% of the top speed of an equivilent steel bearing for fear of sudden failure by craking. If you like to jump down stairs - get some Bones Big Balls or Super Swiss Six Balls instead.

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Seriously??? We're into bearing weight now?? Well, we have actually been asked this, so we checked - and you save a little less than 0.5grams per bearing. We suggest you free yourself from the internet and Go Skateboarding instead of worrying about this.

The ABEC scale has five points - ABEC1, ABEC2, ABEC3, ABEC5, ABEC7 and ABEC9. As far as skateboarding is concerned, the shielding of the bearing is probably the most important single feature - and the ABEC scale doesn't cover shiedling arrangements.

Some of them are classic... from greasing bearings with vaseline to diamond-coated titanium bearings, we've heard it all.

What is static loadcapacity

The ABEC rating is designed to measure quality in industrial bearing applications - where the RPM is often very high, vibration is very low, and in a relatively clean environment. On a skateboard, we are spinning our bearings much slower, vibrating them to oblivion, all in very dirty environments!

Speed rings are super annoying - They are really tiny and very easy to lose! Not needing them is insanely liberating, especially if you take your wheels off your axles at all often.

A bearing with all your weight on it will spin way, way better than an "unweighted" bearing. Unloaded bearings also experience "skidding" - which is where the balls don't roll around the races, they skid or slide - which means that spinning an unloaded bearing is even more meaningless. So you can stop flicking your wheels and timing how long it takes them to stop.

Any decent skate bearing from a reputable brand (hint - the ones who DON'T try to fob you off with ABEC ratings) will be fast, as long as the bearing is clean, lubricated and aligned properly in the wheel core. So really, the best skateboard bearings in the world are the ones that stay clean the longest.

If you don't skate in the wet, your bearings should last at least a year or two of cruising around, if not longer. If you do skate in the wet, make sure you clean your bearings regularly. For even better protection from the rain and road grime, pack your bearings out with a thicker grease.

Static loadexamples

If you have normal skate bearings (ie not "Built In" bearings - below), then you really should have some speed rings. If you have BuiltIn bearings, then you don't need them. Hooray!

On the plus side, cleaning couldn't be easier - no need to even take your wheels off, just dump some bearing lube in there every session and you're good to go.

The #1 thing that makes you enjoy skating more is you and your confidence on your board. If having posh bearings in your setup helps your confidence and stokes you out - then you'll probably skate faster.

Dry your bearings out as soon as you get home, and clean them often, and you will be fine. When you do re-grease them after cleaning, use a thicker grease to keep the water out.

Some skate bearings now come without shields at all! Supposedly they are faster and noisier, and there is a trend for taking shields off of your bearings for a little extra speed. You can event buy shieldless bearings - check out the Bronson Raw Bearing!

Bones Bearings use the "Swiss" name to demote their high-end skate bearings that are made in Switzerland, to higher tolerances, better shielding and using higher-grade materials than their regular "Reds" range of bearings. All Bones Swiss bearings come pre-lubed with Bones Speed Cream, and are the bearing to beat if you are looking to get the best out there.

Sorry to bust your bubble, but really, they're not. In most bearings, about 60% of the drag is caused by the shield, and 30% is caused by the lubricant. Most of the rest of the drag comes from the cage itself - "ball deformation," which is caused by the balls microscopically defoming in the race (which is the very problem that ceramic bearings would solve), accounts for only 3% of the overall drag.

In as far as ABEC ratings are concerned, the seals have nothing to do with the quality of the bearing. However, for skateboarding, where we subject our bearings to all sorts of horrible Road Gunge, shielding is really important.

Cleaning skateboard bearings is super easy. You need to strip all the old grease out, then clean the bearing, then grease them back up again. Check out our How To Clean Bearings Guide for a full step-by-step!

Equally, if you run bearings spacers you'll know how frustrating it can be lining everything up to get a wheel back on (although this technique for putting wheels on fixes that). Bearings with a built in spacer do hold themselevs in better alignment compared to bearings with seperate spacers, which helps prevent wear and therefore makes your bearings last longer.

The fastest skate bearings in the world are brand new bearings, or bearings that you have just cleaned. We stock Bones Bearings, Zealous Bearings, Bronson Bearings and Sabre Bearings. You really don't need anything else.

The other reason to get ceramics is you don't enjoy cleaning bearings - fair enough, there's usually better ways to spend your time! If you're looking for a low-maintenance solution, ceramics could be worth a look.

We recommend Chrome/Carbon steel bearings, and a semi-regular bearing cleaning regime. Or just avoid skating in the wet.

Any bearing brand using this in their marketing should not be taken seriously and frankly need to have a long hard word with themselves!

The "Swiss" skate bearing was invented by George Powell about seven hundred years ago while he was looking for Animal Chin (still not seen him yet...)

"Titanium" bearings are not actually made with titanium balls and races. They are steel bearings coated in Titanium Nitride ( "TiN", like a "Titanium" drill bit). This is great, except the coating will wear off in a few hours of skating, and you'll be back to reuglar old steel bearings.

You need new skateboard bearings if your bearings feel rough or crunchy, or if you can feel them slowing you down when you push, even after you've cleaned them. Top tip - bearings are unlikely to slow you down at all unless they are really destroyed! Check your axle nuts aren't overtightened, and be sure that you're running bearing spacers and speed washers first.

So if you spend a load of money on some super-swanky bearings and it makes your board FEEL faster, then that's really the same as if your board ACTUALLY IS faster.

A decent rubber shielded bearing by a proper skate brand will stay faster for longer than as no-name bearing with a high ABEC rating.

What is staticloading on the body

So here, for your enjoyment and possibly education, is the Vandem Longboard Shop "Bearing Mythbusters" - all your skate bearing related questions, answered!

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Static loadand dynamicloadexamples

If you could buy real 100% Titanium bearings, they would be amazing - super light and ridiculously long-lasting (and outrageously expensive!). But you can't, and the TiN coating doesn't any speed or durability, so don't be fooled.

This number is multi- plied by five to give the bore size. For example, the code 6224 stands for a deep-groove ball bearing with a bore size of 120 mm.

Also important is the amount of side-to-side play. Bearings with a lot of play wear out faster, especially for longboarding, slalom and downhill.

There's no need to take all this advice to heart. Skateboarding and longboarding are "touch and feel," how your board feels TO YOU is more important than anything else.

In other words, as long as you're not buying total junk, good bearing shields are the most important thing. We recommend a rubber labyrinth shields.(RU)

What is static loadvs dynamicload

So why would you bother with ceramics at all? Well in our minds, the major reason is for the placebo effect. If you spend a lot of money on your bearings, you'll feel faster, and feeling faster is the same as being faster. Having spent loads of money on bearings, you'd also probably also look after them, which makes way more of a difference than what the bearings are made of.

What can we learn from this? Well, for starters, even if ceramic ball resulted in 100% less friction than a steel ball, you'd still only loose 3% of your overall bearing drag. Secondly, you can make your bearings a relatively whopping 30% faster by simply removing one of your shields, and probably at least 15% faster by using a lighter bearing lubricant.

What isdynamicload

Stainless Steel doesn't rust as fast as Chrome Steel, so it's great if you skate in the wet or you can't be bothered with cleaning your bearings every now and then. However, Stainless Steel is also softer than Chrome/Carbon Steel, so Stainless skate bearings don't last as long. Bummer!

Skaters without bearing spacers might find it easier to just run their axle nuts a bit loose to keep the wheels spinning freely. This is even worse!

I am the Chief Executive Officer of Bearing and Drive Systems and Bearings Manufacturing Company which were started by my brother Steve.

While we're here disseminating some Ceramic Bearing Truth, there's two claims that are sometimes made about ceramics that are patently not true:

Yes! And you don't need a special tool or bearing press to do it. Just use your axles as leverage, and apply twisting motion as if you are opening a bottle of beer. Check our guide here - how to change your wheels really fast!

Sometimes though, you will see bearings marketed at "Stainless." This means that the balls, and sometimes the races as well, are made from Stainless Steel rather than Chrome/Carbon steel. They're usually a little harder to find, and a little more expensive.