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If there is still too much runout, cutting the rotor with an on-car lathe can eliminate or reduce runout at the rotor. But, it can’t correct runout if the cause is too much play or looseness in the wheel bearings. The only fix for that is to replace the wheel bearings or hub unit.

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How to fix badwheel bearing

The bottom line is that at some time, one or more of the timing chain system components will become worn to the point that they are no longer performing within specification. Your service advisor can help you with recommendations for when timing chain components should be replaced on your vehicle and have it inspected for signs of timing chain system wear.

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Diagnosing wheel speed sensors is essential for wheel bearing replacements. Learn about sensor types, tools, and techniques for accurate fixes.

Every time a spark plug fires, the spark burns a few molecules of metal off the plug’s electrodes. Over time, this eats away the electrodes and rounds off their sharp edges. The erosion gradually increases the gap between the electrodes, which, in turn, increases the firing voltage required to generate a spark. Eventually, the point is reached where the ignition system fails to produce enough voltage and the plug misfires.

After installing the new hub ­assembly, tighten the axle nut to the vehicle manufacturer’s torque specification using a torque wrench.

Wheel bearing noisewhen driving

A caliper that’s sticking or a brake pad that’s loose and dragging may make a metallic scraping noise as it rubs against the brake rotor. The frequency of the noise will also change in proportion to vehicle speed, but will often go away or change when the brakes are lightly applied.

The classic symptom of a bad wheel bearing is typically a cyclic chirping, squealing or growling noise that changes in proportion to vehicle speed. The sound may disappear at some speeds or occur only at certain speeds. The noise may get worse when turning, or it may disappear momentarily. So it’s difficult to make a diagnosis based on noise alone.

Wheel bearing noisedangerous

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Wheel bearing play can be measured with a dial indicator by placing the dial indicator against the hub and rocking the wheel in and out by hand. As a rule, you should see no more than 0.005 inches of play in the bearings if the bearings are good.

Wheel bearing noisetest

For example, the chain runs on sprockets on the crankshaft and the camshafts. A broken tooth on a sprocket can cause the chain to slip a little. When timing is off a little your engine will not run as smoothly. When timing is off enough, your engine won’t run at all and could even be severely damaged. There is also a tensioner that keeps appropriate pressure on the timing chain. This keeps the chain tight while allowing it to absorb pulsations from the engine. The tensioner can wear out. There are also guide rails that keep the chain on the proper path that can become worn.

Timing belts are made of a very tough compound that can last for a long time. Timing chains are made of metal and last for a very long time as well. If your vehicle has a timing belt, your owner’s manual has a schedule for replacing the belt. If your vehicle has a timing chain, there may not be a specified schedule for replacing it, but that doesn’t mean that the timing chain system is indestructible and never needs attention from your auto repair facility.

Wheel bearing noisewhen accelerating

Clean and inspect the axle shaft prior to installing a new hub assembly. Use a fine file, wire brush, emery cloth or honing stone as appropriate to remove any debris, nicks or burrs, Hodge advised.

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Wheel bearing noisewhen turning

Answer: No. The noise could be from the wheel bearing, but it could also be from the brakes, or a bad outer constant velocity (CV) joint.

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As your engine runs, the intake valves need to open up to allow air into the engine. They remain closed while the air and fuel is compressed and ignited, powering the piston. Then the exhaust valves open to release the exhaust. This all has to be timed very precisely. It is the job of the timing belt or timing chain to make sure all of this is synced up properly.

On older vehicles with serviceable wheel bearings, a little play is normal, but a lot of play is not. Refer to the vehicle’s service specifications for the maximum amount of acceptable play.

This error can occur when: 1. A torque wrench is improperly calibrated or not used; 2. The axle shaft is dirty and/or damaged, which requires excessive torque on the axle nut to draw the axle shaft into the hub assembly; and, 3. The axle shaft is not fully seated with the proper amount of axle nut torque resulting in insufficient bearing clamp load on the hub assembly.

If a wheel is making noise, the brakes, wheel bearings and CV joint should all be inspected to determine the cause as each can pose a potential safety risk. Any parts that are worn or damaged must be replaced.

Wheel bearing noisequick fix

A common error with hub assembly installation is applying inadequate axle nut torque, which can result in the axle nut backing off during operation.

Noise that occurs only when the driver is braking is likely a brake problem such as worn pads, not a bad wheel bearing. A popping or clicking noise when turning is a classic symptom of a bad outer CV joint. Also note the condition of the CV joint boot. If it’s torn or leaking, the boot should be replaced, regardless of the condition of the joint. If the CV joint is noisy, it needs to be replaced. A complete axle shaft with new or ­remanufactured joints on each end is the fastest fix for this kind of problem. If a wheel is making noise, the brakes, wheel bearings and CV joint should all be inspected to determine the cause as each can pose a potential safety risk. Any parts that are worn or damaged must be replaced. Question: How do you check wheel bearing play? Answer: Raise the vehicle so the wheel is off the ground, then grab tire at the 12 and 6 o’clock positions and rock the tire back and forth. As a rule, you should not feel any play or looseness if the vehicle has sealed wheel bearing cartridges, or hubs with sealed wheel bearing assemblies. On older vehicles with serviceable wheel bearings, a little play is normal, but a lot of play is not. Refer to the vehicle’s service specifications for the maximum amount of acceptable play. Wheel bearing play can be measured with a dial indicator by placing the dial indicator against the hub and rocking the wheel in and out by hand. As a rule, you should see no more than 0.005 inches of play in the bearings if the bearings are good. You can also rotate the tire by hand while measuring play, but be careful not to confuse rim or hub runout with looseness in the bearings. As a general rule, hub runout should be 0.0015 inches or less, and there should be no more than 0.002 to 0.003 inches of runout at the lip of the rim. If runout exceeds this amount, try re-indexing the wheel on the hub, or remove the wheel and measure runout on the rotor or hub itself. If there is still too much runout, cutting the rotor with an on-car lathe can eliminate or reduce runout at the rotor. But, it can’t correct runout if the cause is too much play or looseness in the wheel bearings. The only fix for that is to replace the wheel bearings or hub unit. A common error with hub assembly installation is applying inadequate axle nut torque, which can result in the axle nut backing off during operation. This error can occur when: 1. A torque wrench is improperly calibrated or not used; 2. The axle shaft is dirty and/or damaged, which requires excessive torque on the axle nut to draw the axle shaft into the hub assembly; and, 3. The axle shaft is not fully seated with the proper amount of axle nut torque resulting in insufficient bearing clamp load on the hub assembly. Clean and inspect the axle shaft prior to installing a new hub assembly. Use a fine file, wire brush, emery cloth or honing stone as appropriate to remove any debris, nicks or burrs, Hodge advised. After installing the new hub ­assembly, tighten the axle nut to the vehicle manufacturer’s torque specification using a torque wrench. NOTE: There should be no clearance between the axle flange face and the back face of the hub assembly

You can also rotate the tire by hand while measuring play, but be careful not to confuse rim or hub runout with looseness in the bearings. As a general rule, hub runout should be 0.0015 inches or less, and there should be no more than 0.002 to 0.003 inches of runout at the lip of the rim. If runout exceeds this amount, try re-indexing the wheel on the hub, or remove the wheel and measure runout on the rotor or hub itself. If there is still too much runout, cutting the rotor with an on-car lathe can eliminate or reduce runout at the rotor. But, it can’t correct runout if the cause is too much play or looseness in the wheel bearings. The only fix for that is to replace the wheel bearings or hub unit. A common error with hub assembly installation is applying inadequate axle nut torque, which can result in the axle nut backing off during operation. This error can occur when: 1. A torque wrench is improperly calibrated or not used; 2. The axle shaft is dirty and/or damaged, which requires excessive torque on the axle nut to draw the axle shaft into the hub assembly; and, 3. The axle shaft is not fully seated with the proper amount of axle nut torque resulting in insufficient bearing clamp load on the hub assembly. Clean and inspect the axle shaft prior to installing a new hub assembly. Use a fine file, wire brush, emery cloth or honing stone as appropriate to remove any debris, nicks or burrs, Hodge advised. After installing the new hub ­assembly, tighten the axle nut to the vehicle manufacturer’s torque specification using a torque wrench. NOTE: There should be no clearance between the axle flange face and the back face of the hub assembly

Since timing chains are lubricated by engine oil, staying on top of your regular oil changes is very important to long life. Always use a high quality oil filter and oil of the recommended type and grade.

Answer: Raise the vehicle so the wheel is off the ground, then grab tire at the 12 and 6 o’clock positions and rock the tire back and forth. As a rule, you should not feel any play or looseness if the vehicle has sealed wheel bearing cartridges, or hubs with sealed wheel bearing assemblies.

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Question: Does noise coming from a wheel always mean the wheel bearing is bad? Related Articles - Smart Battery Management - Hydraulic Suspension Bushings - Brake Problems Answer: No. The noise could be from the wheel bearing, but it could also be from the brakes, or a bad outer constant velocity (CV) joint. The classic symptom of a bad wheel bearing is typically a cyclic chirping, squealing or growling noise that changes in proportion to vehicle speed. The sound may disappear at some speeds or occur only at certain speeds. The noise may get worse when turning, or it may disappear momentarily. So it’s difficult to make a diagnosis based on noise alone. A caliper that’s sticking or a brake pad that’s loose and dragging may make a metallic scraping noise as it rubs against the brake rotor. The frequency of the noise will also change in proportion to vehicle speed, but will often go away or change when the brakes are lightly applied. Noise that occurs only when the driver is braking is likely a brake problem such as worn pads, not a bad wheel bearing. A popping or clicking noise when turning is a classic symptom of a bad outer CV joint. Also note the condition of the CV joint boot. If it’s torn or leaking, the boot should be replaced, regardless of the condition of the joint. If the CV joint is noisy, it needs to be replaced. A complete axle shaft with new or ­remanufactured joints on each end is the fastest fix for this kind of problem. If a wheel is making noise, the brakes, wheel bearings and CV joint should all be inspected to determine the cause as each can pose a potential safety risk. Any parts that are worn or damaged must be replaced. Question: How do you check wheel bearing play? Answer: Raise the vehicle so the wheel is off the ground, then grab tire at the 12 and 6 o’clock positions and rock the tire back and forth. As a rule, you should not feel any play or looseness if the vehicle has sealed wheel bearing cartridges, or hubs with sealed wheel bearing assemblies. On older vehicles with serviceable wheel bearings, a little play is normal, but a lot of play is not. Refer to the vehicle’s service specifications for the maximum amount of acceptable play. Wheel bearing play can be measured with a dial indicator by placing the dial indicator against the hub and rocking the wheel in and out by hand. As a rule, you should see no more than 0.005 inches of play in the bearings if the bearings are good. You can also rotate the tire by hand while measuring play, but be careful not to confuse rim or hub runout with looseness in the bearings. As a general rule, hub runout should be 0.0015 inches or less, and there should be no more than 0.002 to 0.003 inches of runout at the lip of the rim. If runout exceeds this amount, try re-indexing the wheel on the hub, or remove the wheel and measure runout on the rotor or hub itself. If there is still too much runout, cutting the rotor with an on-car lathe can eliminate or reduce runout at the rotor. But, it can’t correct runout if the cause is too much play or looseness in the wheel bearings. The only fix for that is to replace the wheel bearings or hub unit. A common error with hub assembly installation is applying inadequate axle nut torque, which can result in the axle nut backing off during operation. This error can occur when: 1. A torque wrench is improperly calibrated or not used; 2. The axle shaft is dirty and/or damaged, which requires excessive torque on the axle nut to draw the axle shaft into the hub assembly; and, 3. The axle shaft is not fully seated with the proper amount of axle nut torque resulting in insufficient bearing clamp load on the hub assembly. Clean and inspect the axle shaft prior to installing a new hub assembly. Use a fine file, wire brush, emery cloth or honing stone as appropriate to remove any debris, nicks or burrs, Hodge advised. After installing the new hub ­assembly, tighten the axle nut to the vehicle manufacturer’s torque specification using a torque wrench. NOTE: There should be no clearance between the axle flange face and the back face of the hub assembly

Frontwheel bearing noisesymptoms

The hub assembly is a housing that has the wheel bearing and hub already pressed into it. The installation of the wheel bearing hub assembly consists of ...

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