Pop ball joint and tie rod, pull out on knuckle with weak hand while hammering on it with the air chisel fitted with a dull pointed driver. That's what the dimple in the end is for!

Yeah, most likely the bearings. Wheel bearing noise will typically change during a 'lane change' type maneuver, diff noise won't.

Wheelbearingreplacement cost

I was thinking Impreza even though you stated Legacy. With the Impreza you have to remove a long bolt for the lower arms so you can pull the hub off the axle.

Wheelhub BearingAssembly

2010826 — Step 1: Raise Vehicle and Support with Jack Stands. (Crack Lug Nuts and Axle Bolts loose if Necessary) Step 2: Remove Wheel. (13/16 Socket)

Axle nut is off; caliper, bracket and rotor - off. ABS sensor is removed. I don't know what long bolt you're talking about, but the four 14mm holding the bearing assembly are also out. I got the passenger side apart using a puller to push the axle through - but the driver side is being rather stubborn.

Something about laying under it on jack stands while driving is a little bit frightening to me. The idea had crossed my mind though.

Agreed. Also, diff noises usually change depending on the load on the diff, so if you're cruising on the highway in 5th and go from full throttle to no throttle, a diff will sound a lot different but a wheel bearing noise won't change much at all.

Ive done really rusty hubs with an air chisel to separate it from the knuckle, this will likely screw up the mating surface and you'll need to draw file it back flat though.

Car off, raise both rear tires by jacking up the rear diff. Front wheels chaulked. Car in neutral and ebrake off. Spin rear wheel on one side and listen. Go to other side and spin and listen.

R6Z C0 Single shield single row ball bearing 3/8" bore x 7/8" o.d. x .2812" width.

Hub bearing frontreplacement

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Frontwheelbearingreplacement cost

Dial indicator and a magnet base, specs should be in the manual. It highly doubt it would get loud without being worn out of spec.

I then use a big bearing puller to push the axle out if its not cooperating. But that usually only happens with northern transplant subies.

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Wheelhubassembly diagram

SKU: 061305061 This 1/4 x 1/2 x 3/16 inch (R188-ZZ) bearing is an imperial deep groove ball bearing. The R188-ZZ inner diameter is 1/4 in (6.35 mm), ...

Jun 6, 2022 — A timing belt should be routinely changed, just like the engine filter or other similar car parts. Now that technology has improved, timing ...

WheelBearing HubAssemblyFront

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El juego de extractores incluye pinzas para pistas de rodamientos interiores, dimensiones 6,5-8, 10-12, 12-15, 17-20, 22-28, 30-36, y un mango con un martillo ...

Kenny, this is the rear... removing everything appears to be a huge job, so I'm hoping to find a way to get the CV out, still attached to the bearing assembly.

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WheelHubAssembly Kit

Anyways on the Legacy I really dont have any secrets or anything. After unbolting the 4 bolts on the hub I just give a liberal dousing with ATF/acetone (or your poison of choice) and a slidehammer with adapter.

Car in question is a 2001 Subaru Legacy sedan with 140k miles. There's a loud woomp woomp woomp noise audible inside the car, and is definitely something in the rear. Front wheel bearings were done within the year. How can I tell if its the bearings in the diff or the axles?

Wheelhubassembly parts

HD BEARING GREASE is a Heavy Duty wheel hub and bearing grease operating at high or low speeds and where prolonged heavy braking is likely to give higher ...

When you swap in a new wheel bearing (assuming that's the noise you're hearing), make sure to check the grease in the new unit and ideally, repack it with known good grease. That should extend its life a bit more.

Worn wheel bearings usually cause play in the wheel. If the noise changes while on the brakes in neutral, that's a good sign that it's not something in the diff.

Timing chains are constructed out of metal. Timing chains are preferred by some because they are strong and reliable. However, chains produce a lot of noise.

Day 2 update: I ended up removing the entire rear suspension arm (which was surprisingly straightforward and easy to do), and popped the CV out of the diff. I have the whole thing precariously positioned in my 12 ton Harbor Freight press, sitting in my driveway, loaded. I tried using a FWD hub puller from autozone to push the axle out, tried the air hammer, tried my ball-pein hammer with a drift - then all of the above with and without liberal coats of PB Blaster and / or heat from my propane torch. I peen'ed over the head of the CV shaft so bad that I couldn't get the nut back on. While I hate destroying stuff, this battle might be lost. Is it dumb to drill out the cv shaft with the hope it will relieve pressure inside the hub? Another thought is to take it to a shop with a larger press. Eventually it will let go - I think!

So for various reasons, I'm finally tackling this job. The passenger side is almost fully apart, but the driver's side is being stubborn. The axle shaft is stuck in the hub. I'm debating if I should just pull the CV axle too, and load the whole mama in my press to get it apart. My google abilities are lacking; there are tons of instructions for front CV axles but very little for the rears. Haynes says I need to remove the rear diff to get the axles out. Huh, really??

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Bearing fit is governed by the tolerances selected for bearing shaft diameters and housing bore diameters. Widely used fits for Class 0 tolerance bearings and ...