Take the castellated nut, the spacer, and the dust cap, clean them, and put them somewhere where you won’t kick them across the garage floor.

One of the most prominent signs of failing wheel bearings is unusual noises coming from the wheels. As the bearings wear down, you may hear a grinding, growling, or humming sound, especially when you're driving at higher speeds. These noises are typically more pronounced when making turns. If you notice any of these sounds, it's crucial to have your wheel bearings inspected promptly.

Another sign of failing wheel bearings is excessive play in the wheel. If you notice a noticeable amount of play or looseness when you try to wiggle the wheel by hand, it could indicate worn-out bearings. This play can be felt horizontally and vertically and should not be ignored.

At Goodhood, our experienced technicians can inspect your wheel bearings and replace them if needed. We use only high-quality parts and offer the best customer service available.

Either wash your hands or use a pair of rubber gloves. I’d advise wearing a Tyvek suit, as you’re likely going to get grease on whatever you’re wearing. Take a good-sized glob of grease and put it in the palm of your hand. Then take the bearing and press it in the wad of grease in your palm, almost like you’re scooping ice cream with a spoon, and work the grease into every crevice around the rim of the bearing. Replenish the grease in your palm as necessary. Do this for both the front and back of the bearing.

If you experience any steering-related issues, it's essential to have your wheel bearings checked by a professional mechanic.

If you recognize the signs of a worn-out wheel bearing, it's essential to have them checked and replaced by a professional mechanic. A qualified technician will inspect your vehicle for any issues and determine whether you need to replace the bearings.

Next, you need to find the gap in the castellated nut that best lines up with the hole in the end of the spindle. The Internet is full of stories of people who burned out wheel bearings in a hundred miles by over-tightening them. I was always trained to tighten the nut by hand, then back it off to line it up with the hole, but a friend pointed out to me that the 2002 factory manual calls for the nut to be tight enough that the spacer can be moved by prying it with a screwdriver. Check your manual for the correct procedure.

Take the new race and place it in the hub. Square it up, then gently tap it in with a rubber hammer, or a hammer and wood block, or hammer and a hockey puck, then stop and look at it carefully to determine whether it’s going in cocked, which it almost always is. If it is badly cocked, it can gouge the mating surface, so you want to correct it as quickly as possible. Gently tap on the high side until it is going in level, then continue tapping until it’s flush with the top of the hub.

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Common indicators of worn-out wheel bearings include unusual noises, vibrations, uneven tire wear, or steering instability. If you notice any of such signs, it's best to get your vehicle serviced by a professional mechanic right away. At Goodhood mobile auto repair services, our experienced technicians can inspect and replace your wheel bearings if needed. We use only high-quality parts and offer the best customer service available.

Incorrect installation of wheel bearings or insufficient maintenance can contribute to premature failure. It's crucial to have your wheel bearings installed by a qualified technician and follow the manufacturer's recommended maintenance guidelines.

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Roller bearings are a type of bearing that utilizes rolling elements to reduce friction. These bearings typically consist of rows of rollers, rings, cages, and washers. They're used in various applications such as automotive, industrial, and aerospace applications.

A wheel bearing replacement cost can vary depending on the type of vehicle, the location of the wheel bearing, and other factors. On average, it can cost between $200 - $400. At Goodhood, we offer affordable and transparent prices on all of our services. Contact us for a free quote today!

Over time, however, these bearings can wear out and fail, leading to potential hazards on the road. It's essential to recognize the signs of failing wheel bearings and know when to replace them.

The front hub layout on many vintage cars is such that there are inner and outer bearings, each running in a race that’s pressed into the hub. The inner bearing is protected by a pressed-in seal, the outer bearing by a dust cap. The hub assembly—hub plus rotor plus bearings—slides onto a spindle that protrudes at a right angle from the strut, and it’s held in place by a castellated nut, so named because it has notches in it like the crenellations in the parapet of a castle or the top of a rook chess piece. One of the notches is lined up with a hole that’s drilled through the end of the spindle. A cotter pin is used to secure the nut.

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In conclusion, recognizing the signs of failing wheel bearings and knowing when to replace them is essential for maintaining a safe and smooth ride.

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If you frequently drive on rough or uneven terrain, your wheel bearings may wear out faster. Off-road driving, potholes, and bumpy roads can put additional stress on the bearings, leading to premature failure.

Badrear wheel bearingsymptoms

On many vintage cars, replacing front wheel bearings is synergistic with replacing the front rotors. This is because the front rotors are often behind the front hubs, which means that to change the rotors you have to pull the hubs off the front spindles, at which point the bearings are practically in your hand. So, if you need to do a front brake job, check the wheel bearings.

Wheel bearings generally live a long time on street cars, but front-wheel bearings suffer increased stress due to the steering, so they may need to be replaced at some point on a vintage car.

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Straighten out the cotter pin with needle-nosed pliers, remove it, and then unscrew the nut from the spindle. It shouldn’t be on tight, but if it is, a wrench can get it started. Withdraw the thick spacer that’s behind the nut.

Next comes the fun part: Packing the bearings. There are few things more automotively primal, elemental, and intimate than packing bearings. Use whatever grease you’re comfortable with. Like with motor oil, many people swear by certain greases. I haven’t found that it matters. Traditional brown 100-percent petroleum-based grease, black semi-synthetic, or red 100-percent synthetic are all fine, as long as the package lists “automotive bearings” among the applications.

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The repair process typically involves removing the wheel from the car, taking out the old bearing, cleaning all components, and installing new bearings. Following this process requires specialized tools and experience; therefore, it's best to leave it up to experienced professionals rather than attempting a DIY fix.

At this point, before I button things up, I like to test-fit the wheel, spin it, and check for play. If you do this, take care not to get any dirt into the open bearing (you can gently tap the bearing cap into place). The wheel should spin smoothly and quietly. Grab the wheel at 6 and 12 and push and pull it. There should be no play, or only a small hint of play.

Knowing when to replace your wheel bearings is crucial to prevent further damage and ensure your safety on the road. While there isn't a specific mileage and/or time frame for replacing wheel bearings, having them inspected regularly is recommended, especially during routine maintenance checks.

If you notice any of the signs, such as unusual noises, vibrations, uneven tire wear, or steering instability, it's essential to have your wheel bearings inspected immediately. Ignoring them can lead to further damage to your vehicle and compromise your safety

I recently needed to do brake and bearing work on both my Lotus Europa and on one of my BMW 2002s. The two repairs were nearly identical. I’ll show it for the BMW simply because the photographs came out better, and I’ll point out the handful of minor differences.

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When the race is fully seated, you should hear the sound change from a ringing to more of a thud as you’re tapping it in, but you should also check by turning the hub over and carefully examining where the back of the race is visible through the slots. Be certain that there is no space behind the race. Then do the same thing with the other bearing race. You should now have both the inner and outer races seated.

When installing the bearings, order is important. You must drop the inner bearing in first, then install the bearing seal to trap it in place, then slide the entire hub assembly onto the spindle, then slide the outer bearing into place, and then trap it with the spacer and nut.

Give the inside of the hub and the bearing races a quick cleaning with a paper towel so you can see what’s what. You should be able to see the smaller outer bearing race pressed into the front of the hub, and the larger inner race pressed into the back. If you look inside the hub from both sides, you should see two notches behind each race that allow you to bang them out. Using a hammer and the drift of your choice (e.g., an old screwdriver, a beat-up quarter-inch ratchet extension, or even an actual drift punch), and working on one race at a time, knock it out by banging alternately on the two notches. Then move on to the other race. It doesn’t matter which one you do first.

Begin disassembling the hub by fishing the outer wheel bearing out. Don’t throw it away just yet, in case you need to compare it to the new bearing.

Slide the hub and rotor assembly onto the spindle, pressing it gently but firmly to get the inner bearing to seat on the spindle. Slide the outer bearing over the end of the spindle and into its race, then slide the spacer over the end of the spindle. Thread the castellated nut onto the end of the spindle. Be careful not to cross-thread it. Once the nut is on, spin it on as far as it will go by hand, then gently use a wrench on it, as both the inner and outer bearing rings sometimes need to seat on the spindle. It should be obvious when they’re seated. Do not apply any real torque on the nut. You’re not trying to tighten it.

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Front wheel bearing noisesymptoms

It's generally recommended to have them inspected regularly, especially during routine maintenance checks. Additionally, consider the following factors that may accelerate wear and require earlier replacement, such as driving conditions and improper installation or maintenance.

Badwheel bearing noise

These vibrations can negatively impact your driving experience and may indicate a need for immediate attention to prevent further damage.

When wheel bearings start to fail, they can affect the alignment of the wheels. As a result, you may notice uneven tire wear. If you observe that the tread on one or more of your tires is wearing out more quickly than the others, it could be a sign of a failing wheel bearing. Regularly inspecting your tires for uneven wear patterns can help you catch potential problems early on.

The next step is to slide the hub onto the spindle, but before that, there’s the question of whether the hub bore is supposed to be packed with grease. Consult a repair manual for the car. On the 2002, the grease packed into the bearings and dust cap were deemed enough, but on the Lotus, the manual said to pack the hub’s center bore approximately half full of grease.

Finally, put the cotter pin through the notch and the hole, and bend it far enough that it won’t hit the bearing cap. Put some grease in the cap and tap it back into place.

The classic test is to jack up the front of the car, support it on stands, grab each wheel at 6 o’clock and 12 o’clock, and gently rock it. If you feel play, the wheel bearing needs to be adjusted. If you can’t adjust out the play, or if when you spin it you hear and feel noise, it’s time to replace the bearings.

Once you’ve packed the crevices, cram the outer circumference of the bearing into your palm, working the grease into the individual rollers. Be sure that it’s well packed. Remember: You’re likely giving this bearing the only lubrication it’ll receive for decades. When the bearing is well-packed, put it down on a new clean paper towel. Do this with both the inner and outer bearings.

A damaged wheel bearing can also affect the wheel hub assembly, so it's important to have the entire system inspected and replaced if needed. This assembly connects your wheel and axle, providing structural support and allowing it to rotate.

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How to tell which wheel bearing isbadwhile driving

The wheel bearings in your vehicle play a very important role in ensuring a smooth and safe ride. They enable the wheels to rotate freely while supporting the weight of the vehicle.

And that’s it. Unless you own the car for 30 more years and drive the bejesus out of it, you’ll probably never have to change the front wheel bearings again.

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Worn-out wheel bearings can lead to steering instability. If you feel that your vehicle is drifting or pulling to one side while driving in a straight line, it may indicate a problem with the wheel bearings. This can compromise your ability to maintain vehicle control and pose a safety risk.

Use a glob of grease to coat the inner bearing race, then set the inner bearing down inside it. Take the inner wheel-bearing seal and install it as you did the bearing races, tapping it into place and taking care not to cock it, but only get it flush with the inner surface of the hub. Don’t pound it in any farther than that. The BMW 2002 had the rubber grease seal shown, but the Lotus had an old-school felt seal where the felt was on the outside, greased, and meant to be in light contact with the base of the spindle. Care needed to be taken to test-fit the hub assembly to be certain the clearance of the felt seal was adequate.

Spray everything down with the cleaner of your choice and scour it thoroughly. Then, as you did with the spindle, inspect the surfaces that the races sat in; I’ve never seen one ruined, but it’s not uncommon to see some gouging from the races being banged in and out. If gouging in one area is pronounced, you can take off the high spots with some Scotch-Brite, but don’t go nuts and risk not having the race fit snugly.

To remove the inner wheel bearing, you first need to pry the seal out of the back of the hub. You’re replacing it, so don’t worry about destroying it. A long screwdriver rocking on a fulcrum point like the handle of a hammer usually does the trick. With the seal out, withdraw the inner wheel bearing. Again, hold onto it for a bit in case you need to compare sizes.

When it comes to replacing your wheel bearings, it's always best to consult a professional mechanic for expert advice and assistance.

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With the inner bearing trapped in place by the seal, turn the hub over and coat the outer bearing race with grease. Clean any grease off the rotors.

Next, pull the hub and rotor assembly forward and off the spindle, but be aware that the outer wheel bearing may slide out, so be prepared to catch it. Lay everything on a clean piece of cardboard or a paper towel.

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If you are replacing the rotors, now is a good time to take the old ones off. On my 2002, they were held by four 8-mm Allen-head bolts, whereas on the Lotus, they were attached using traditional bolts. In either case, this is one of those times where owning an impact wrench makes it so easy that it’s almost not fair. If you don’t have one, you may need to clamp the old rotor in a vise to hold it still. Draw the bolts and their lock washers out, then separate the rotor from the hub. If it’s been on there for 40 years, you may need to persuade it with a few smacks from a hammer.

At Goodhood mobile auto repair services, our experienced technicians can inspect your wheel bearings and replace them if needed. We use only high-quality parts and offer the best customer service available.

Next, take a paper towel and clean the spindle. Inspect the two flat surfaces. The bearings themselves do not actually run on these surfaces. Instead, they serve as the seating surfaces for the rings in the center of the bearing assemblies. However, if these surfaces are badly pockmarked or gouged, the inner bearing rings may not sit firmly on them, allowing the entire bearing to wobble. If that is the case, and if, after replacing the bearings and adjusting them, there is still substantial play in the wheel, the entire strut housing may need to be replaced. Fortunately, this is extremely rare, and usually comes only from catastrophic bearing failure—which is why, when you feel play that can’t be adjusted out, you replace the bearings.

You begin by removing the caliper. If you’re also replacing the pads, it’s easiest if you first bang the pins out of the caliper before you unbolt it from the strut. Note that the original brake pads and shoes on a vintage car may contain asbestos, so wearing a dust mask is a wise precaution when dealing with brake components. Remove the bolts holding the caliper to the strut. There may also be a bolt holding the brake line bracket to the strut. Set the caliper on the control arm or hang it from the spring with a zip tie.

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While you don’t absolutely have to do the wheel bearings on both sides at the same time (it’s not like rotors and pads), it’s generally considered good practice to do so.

Wheel bearings wear out due to several reasons, such as wear and tear due to age or excessive load. They can also fail due to improper installation or maintenance, as well as driving conditions like frequent potholes or rough terrain.

Ignoring the signs of bad wheel bearings can lead to further damage and compromise your safety. It's essential to recognize the signs and take action quickly by having them inspected and replaced as needed.

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When the race is flush with the top of the hub, switch from a block of wood to using a socket whose diameter is just slightly smaller than the race. You’ll have to figure this out by trial and error, as the exact outer diameter varies socket to socket, but on the 2002, I used a 1-13/16-inch socket on the larger inner race and a 1-3/8-inch socket on the smaller outer race.

Failing wheel bearings can cause vibrations in your vehicle. You may feel a pulsating sensation in the steering wheel or even throughout the entire vehicle when the bearings are worn out.

Open the package with your nice new bearing. It should contain the bearing and the race. It doesn’t matter whether you select the inner or outer bearing first. Withdraw the race and set the bearing down on a clean paper towel or plastic sheet.

In this article, we'll explore the common indicators of worn-out wheel bearings and provide insights into when it's time to seek professional assistance to replace your wheel bearings.