I used the Continental kit and GMB tensioner, ended-up getting quite the shock when I pulled the timing belt covers off and found tons of rubber shavings. All of the small guides on the inner cover corners were digging into the existing timing belt. Readjusted all of them using the spacer tool provided for reinstallation of the main timing belt guide.

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If you are doing the water pump and draining the radiator, not removing the radiator really doesn't save any time, maybe 1 minute. It is held in by two bolts.

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125f to C

When I was in for warranty repair, the dealer proactively gave me $1500 quote. The Turbo models are more difficult because you have to remove downpipe or exhaust manifold/turbo assemble to access the all water pump bolts. The charge pipe, air intake pipes, hoses make for a more difficult timing belt job as well.

I have a 2010 LGT, had to remove the radiator fans, piping from the turbo outlet to intercooler, and two upper coolant hoses. I am not especially talented mechanically and was able to do it, so most people should not have problems if they take their time. Getting the new timing belt on with marks aligned was frustrating, but with the cam pulley tool and a mirror, I eventually got it.

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When I was in for warranty repair, the dealer proactively gave me $1500 quote. The Turbo models are more difficult because you have to remove downpipe or exhaust manifold/turbo assemble to access the all water pump bolts. The charge pipe, air intake pipes, hoses make for a more difficult timing belt job as well.

110f to C

My wife's 2011 2.5i is almost to 100k and I called the dealership where she bought it from to get a quote on the water pump and timing belt replacement. They quoted me 1400$. Is that too much?

I am getting prepped to do the timing belt on my car as well - I bought the 6starbernie kit (OEM tensioner, all OEM idlers (direct from manuf), Mitsuboshi belt), waiting on some miscellaneous stuff (OEM upper/lower rad hose, serpentine belt, plugs), have a camlock tool for the drivers side cams, and a torque solution crank pulley tool. Pretty sure I am good to go once it all gets here. (opting to forego the waterpump since the car only has 74k miles and that getting the wp on the GT is a bit more than I feel like dealing with this go-around) - oddly enough, the thermostat is on national backorder (appears to be unique to the 5th gen GT) - definitely pulling the radiator, etc. to make room. I'll use a feeler gauge for the belt guides (spec is 1mm +/- 0.5mm, so not a bit deal). Need to pick up coolant, then I'll have everything.

That is crazy that they would not replace the idlers, I ended up doing it myself after the dealer quoted me some insane number. I did not do the water pump and thermostat, though. My understanding is that Subaru water pumps rarely fail and if it ain't broke don't fix it

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120fto C

Yeah I have decided to tackle it myself. The dealership is absolutely nuts if they want someone to pay that amount for that work.

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I used the Continental kit and GMB tensioner, ended-up getting quite the shock when I pulled the timing belt covers off and found tons of rubber shavings. All of the small guides on the inner cover corners were digging into the existing timing belt. Readjusted all of them using the spacer tool provided for reinstallation of the main timing belt guide.

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I think 1400 is a bit high. I can buy the whole kit for I think 275 from rock auto. The idler pulley should be included for that price. I guess I will call the dealership to get more details.

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checked parts.subaru.com - msrp for the 3 idlers, tensioner, belt, and water pump is $635.27. Coolant is $25.96 per gallon and you need 2. So that's $687.29 in parts and fluid.

If you are going all OEM parts, I can see it getting up into the $600 range for all the bits, then book rate is probably something like 6 hours, I imagine... so depending on your dealers hourly rate, $1400 with tax doesn't sound too horrible - definitely not getting a deal, but if done right, and you can't do it yourself, it's not horrible.

150f to C

100F to C

Anyway, I'd recommend replacing the idlers too, and it seems that's not automatically included in the job by dealers, at least by my one experience.

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Sorry I can't answer your question with 5th gens, but I just wanted to mention something. I stupidly assumed that when the dealer changed my timing belt the first time around that they would do all the idlers too, which they did not. I ended up going around 190k total on them before doing my timing belt myself the second time, which was a stupid gamble to run the oem idlers that long.

I'd recommend replacing the serpentine belt and any hoses that look suspect. If you live in the rust belt, you'll probably need various other bits as well. If the book rate is something like 5 hours, and they charge say $125, then with tax paying MSRP on everything with all OEM parts you are looking at around $1400 including tax.

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I really think this is a reasonable DIY job if you have a few evenings to work on it. I did not need to remove the radiator, only the fans, and the hardest part was dealing with all of the rusty bolts.

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I'm at 130k and the timing belt looked in good shape still when the shop showed me the old one, but I wasn't taking a gamble any longer.

J120f

I really think this is a reasonable DIY job if you have a few evenings to work on it. I did not need to remove the radiator, only the fans, and the hardest part was dealing with all of the rusty bolts.

$1400 seems like a lot for 2.5i. I would think it would 800-900 range for a dealership to do a 2.5i timing with Subaru parts. (I am just a DIYer though) My dealer advertised $400 timing belt (just the belt) for 2.5i.

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