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What is the best bicycle bearing grease? In this post, a recommendation for bicycle bearings grease will be given. For detailed explanation of various types of greases, as well as recommendation of grease for extreme riding conditions, look at this (long) post: Bicycle bearing greases – explained.

Table 1 shows a list of required marks for ISO and DIN standards. Desirable values are listed from the minimum required (top), then respectively to the best possible (bottom).

Relja is an avid cyclist, a pretty good bike mechanic, and a professional computer systems administrator – with decades of experience in both those fields (computers and bikes ? ). Relja Novović’s credentials and a short biography

However, salty water can eat through this oxide and keep the corrosion going, so in such conditions, a protective coat of paint, or water resistant grease are needed. High quality lithium complex grease can do a good job, though I’d say that most greases marketed as “marine” are with a calcium soap thickener.

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There is often a debate among the cyclists and mechanics about what grease is the best for bicycle bearings. Some swear by “old axle grease that my (grand)father used to use…” Others recommend silicone, teflon, graphite etc. greases. After a lot of reading, researching and experimenting, the conclusion is the following (this is autor’s personal opinion, based on knowledge and experience so far):

Following advice from the previous paragraph, one can’t go wrong. However, those who want to be absolutely sure (and have no problems with noting important marks before going shopping) can read the following (shortest possible) instructions for deciphering standards’ labels.

Update, December 2023:Grease I’ve been using mostly over the past year is Motorex 2000 grease (also sold as “Motorex Bike grease”). Why? It is “officially” (by the manufacturer’s specifications) neutral towards plastic and many kinds of rubber (not to be used on DOT for brake rubber seals though). And it has a nice colour, but is mostly transparent, so I can easily see where and how much I’ve applied. ? It is needlessly expensive for what I’m getting, but since I often work on other people’s bikes, and bikes are getting more and more plastic and carbon parts, I want to minimize any liability. This grease is calcium based.

Another problem is galvanic corrosion. Aluminium in contact with steel will start corroding, and get stuck so it can’t be (re)moved. The above mentioned anti-seize pastes are the best solution for preventing this.

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The mentioned (linked) post gives explanation why, by author’s experience and opinion, grease recommended in this post is the optimal choice (i.e. the best considering all the criteria, including the price).

Hello, I have Mobil XHP222 lithium grease. Is it safe to use on aluminum parts? I have an aluminum full suspension frame. Can I use at the bottom bracket threads with shimano external aluminum bb cups, crankset axle, anodized pivot point bolts and shock mount bolt, integrated headset, fork steerer tube made out of aluminum etc. I heard if lithium grease mixed with water can cause corrosion on aluminum. Can I use this grease everywhere in my bike?

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The existing comments posted under this article (questions and answers) have been moved to this BikeGremlin forum thread:https://www.bikegremlin.net/threads/the-best-bicycle-bearing-grease-article-comments.142/

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If you've found any errors or lacking information in the article(s) - please let me know by commenting on the BikeGremlin forum.You can comment anonymously (by registering with any name/nickname), but I think it is good to publicly document all the article additions (and especially corrections) - even if their author chooses to remain anonymous.

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Aluminium corroedes creating a thin layer of oxide that prevents further corrosion – unlike steel, where the corrosion keeps going.

I’d say – the same as recommended in this article. Dirt intrusion is the nemesis of bicycle bearings. So, for greases, just like with washing soap: regular use is more important than the “exceptional quality”. ?

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For threads and other stuff that aren’t bearings, i.e. for preventing seizing, I recommend using anti-seize (mounting) paste.

Note: listed greases are the ones I could find that are of good quality and with a world-wide distribution. Feel free to look for cheaper, locally available options. My 1st choice is local, Serbian made FAM FORPLEX 2 grease.

Author’s recommendation of greases from Amazon.com on-line shop is listed below (clicking on an image leads to the Amazon on-line shopping website). As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

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For coaster brake hubs (hub brakes) – good choice are greases that can withstand high temperatures (generated when braking). Lithium-complex soap based greases, or, even better (especially if not sparing money, or they are already at hand) – lithium complex with molybdenum disulfide (MoS2).

Good quality lithium-complex grease, like the Mobil XHP222 can be used for lubricating any bearings, brake pivots etc. It can be used to prevent galvanic corrosion, but must be re-applied every 6 months (to a year, depending on the riding conditions). This goes for most greases, regardless of their thickener, and base oil type (lithium, calcium, etc.).

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Related posts are explaininig: Bicycle hub overhaul procedure and Bicycle bearing types and designs. Separate post deals with mounting (anti seize) pastes – not to be mixed with greases, and how often you should lubricate and service various bicycle parts.

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Dirt intrusion is the nemesis of bicycle bearings. Even worse than water intrusion. That is why it’s important to clean and re-lube bearings regularly – once, or twice a year (depending on riding conditions and mileage). Grease quality is less important – bicycle bearings don’t take much load and with enough dirt inside, even the best grease is useless.

Grease label usually says “Lithium grease”, with, or without “Multi-purpose”. There is often a number of NLGI grease hardness, for bicycles it should be “2”, sometimes noted as “NLGI 2“.

This should be enough not to make a mistake. If there’s also written “complex” besides the “Lithium” note, or letters “EP”, that, except for a higher price, will not do any harm (nor much good either, at least for bicycle bearing lubrication).

Grease label usually has (often on the back) ISO, DIN, or both standard labels. They note which specifications the grease meets. How to read them?