Thanks for the tip, I inspected the rotors with my fingers and it felt smooth just like the other side. I think the rotors and pads are fine. If not, well it’s another fun project.

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6309-Z Deep Groove Ball Bearing, 45 mm = Bore (d), 100 mm = D, 25 mm = B, 56000 N = Load Capacity; Brand: Interchangeable From FAG 6309-Z or OEM; Material Of Bearing = Steel; Material Of Cage = Sheet Steel; Seal Close Type = Shielded; Max speed = 8100 rpm; Sealing Material = Sheet Steel; Bearing Series = Medium Series; Operating Temperature Range = -30 to 150 °C; Feature = Standard; Bore Dia. (d) = 45 mm; Outside Dia. (D) = 100 mm; Number of Rows = 1; Width (B) = 25 mm; Load Rating = 56000 N

However, there is one thing that prevents me from being absolutely certain and that is my reasoning that bad wheel bearings on one side that causes the car to lurch and drag would also cause it to pull to one side… this is not happening, it’s not pulling to one side…

Sounds to me like you have a dragging brake caliper combined with an uneven rotor. If I’m right, then your impression is correct - something quite literally is “holding it back and letting it go.”

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One other reason I suspect the wheel bearings is because: If I drive the car after it has been parked for a day, the symptoms don’t appear until after a some 10 minutes of driving…

Since I’ve had a faulty tires that caused steering wheel wobbles before, I considered that it could be the tires, but these tires are nearly brand new… the tires don’t quite explain the other symptoms.

Just took this off my new to me accord. Seller said ball joint was bad. I moved car 10 ft in his driveway and said wheel bearing is bad too.

I replaced the calipers today, it took a full week to get the part from RockAuto–I ordered Raybesto’s “Opti-Cal” line, it’s a brand new part rather than remanufactured (I chose it because I’ve had good results with Raybestos Advanced Tech brake pads.)

Keep in mind that might be a sticking caliper or a failing brake hose at that corner. Internal failure can act like a check valve and not let the caliper release. It’s a 10 year old car, FWIW, I had the first brake hose failure on my truck at 7 years.

Lift 1 tire off ground with jack. Put on parking brake. Idle motor in drive and listen to right side, than left. If ur lucky only 1 wheel will rumble.

Your steering wheel wobbling? That’s intermittent pulling to one side. By the time the high side of the rotor rolls around again, you’ve reacted to the steering wheel wobble and pulled the car back to straight. If you were only a little bit less competent a driver you’d have your diagnosis by now.

concur w/the above ideas, more likely some kind of brake problem. My own diy’er experience w/bad wheel bearings is that heat or steering wheel wobbling aren’t the symptoms you first notice. What you notice first is a sound, a sort of growling sound, that gets louder the faster you go. It sounds sort of like when you drive over a road with a rough-textured surface. Often the wheel bearing sound gets worse when turning too, when turning in the other direction from the side the growling is coming from.

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It might be a small pull…but maybe not. Depends on how sticky the caliper is but the symptoms you just posted scream “brake caliper dragging”

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Single row deep groove ball bearings 6309-Z,  0.822 kg Bearing mass,  (45*100*25 mm),  45 mm d (Bore: diameter of the inner ring),  100 mm D (Outside: diameter of the outer cylindrical surface of the outer ring),  25 mm B (Width: nominal width of the bearing),  54831 N radial dynamic load capacity (Dyn. Cr),  31367 N radial static load capacity (Stat. Cor),  14989 r/min Maximum RPM (Speed in grease),  9486 r/min Maximum RPM (Speed in oil)

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You were all right, it was the calipers. In your experience, you knew it was the calipers. My reasoning led me to wheel bearings but I’m an amateur DIY’er.

The Bearing designations and dimensions Enquiry System for reference only, and The actual data will be subject to the national standard, assumes no responsibility for the tradebearings.

Part Number 6309-Z Cage Stamped steel cage, ball centred Rows NO. One Series 63..-Z Principal Dimensions Inside - d φ (mm) 45 Principal Dimensions Outside - D Φ (mm) 100 Principal Dimensions Width - B (mm) 25 Minimum load coefficient - kr 0.03 Calculation coefficient - f0 13 Dynamic Radial Capacity - Cr 54831 N | 12326 lbf Static Radial Capacity - C0r 31367 N | 7051 lbf Ring Material GCr15SiMn Dimension - d1 62.18 mm | 2.448 inch Bore Type Cylindrical bore Seal Z = Shield on one sides Dimension - D2 86.7 mm | 3.413 inch Speed ratings (grease) - nB 14989 r/min Lubricant No Dimension Chamfer - r1,r2 (min.) 1.5 mm | 0.059 inch Fillet dimensions - ra(max.) 1.5 mm | 0.059 inch Speed ratings (oil) - nG 9486 r/min Fatigue load limit - Pu 1332 N | 299 lbf Internal clearance CN Outer ring feature No Principal Dimensions Inside - d φ (inch) 1.772 Principal Dimensions Outside - D Φ (inch) 3.937 Principal Dimensions Width - B (inch) 0.984 Heat stabilized 120 °C (250 °F) Ball Material GCr15SiMn Bearing type Capped single row deep groove ball bearings Bearing Mass - m 0.822 kg | 1.812 lb Manufacturer Part Code 6309.Z Abutment dimensions - da(min.) 54 mm | 2.126 inch Tolerance class P6 Abutment dimensions - da(max.) 62.1 mm | 2.445 inch Abutment dimensions - Da(max.) 91 mm | 3.583 inch Radial run-out P6 Dimensional tolerances P6

New Designations : 6309-Z Old Code : 60309 Main demensions : 45 × 100 × 25 Bore Dia × Outside Dia × Width Dia (mm) M : 0.822 kg Weight HS Code : 8482102000 Bearing customs code ID : 45 mm Inside diameter(I.D.) OD : 100 mm Outside diameter(O.D.) T(B) : 25 mm Thickness(W.D.) C : 54.831 kN Radial dynamic load rating C0 : 31.367 kN Radial static load rating Grease rpm : 14989 r/min Reference speed Oil rpm : 9486 r/min Limiting speed Category : Single row deep groove ball bearings

I removed the calipers to reinstall and lube the guide pins, it was difficult to remove which is consistent with stuck calipers. Then I pumped the brake pedals to push the caliper piston out, and once out it was IMPOSSIBLE to push it back in even with a lot of effort and that caliper piston push-in tool.

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Min. Order: 1 Piece/(6309-Z, 45 = ID, 100 = OD, 25 = B, 0.822 kg) or according to different suppliers Price: Different brands , different quality, different 6309-Z prices, different suppliers and different quality determine different prices, you can ask the supplier in detail for the price according to your own needs. Precision Rating: DIN: P2~P0; ANSI: ABEC9~ABEC1; JIS: JIS~JIS0; ISO: CLASS2~NORMAL CLASS; GB/T30794 B~G Inquiry ways: The right of the inquiry form, Email, skype, Whatsapp

While driving on the highway, the steering wheel started wobbling, it seems more pronounced at higher speeds. So, I pulled over to take a look at the front wheels, maybe it’s a rock stuck in the treads (but usually stuck rocks make a clicking sound)----there are no rock pebbles. There is a burning smell, almost like burning rubber coming from the wheel well but the tires look fine, no signs of rubbing. I looked at the inner part of the tires to see if it’s rubbing against something, some suspension component perhaps: nope, looks all good. I reckon if there’s rubbing I would probably feel and hear it inside the car. The burning smell seems to be coming from the passenger front wheel well.

I hadn’t planned on gravity bleeding all 4 sides but I discovered that it had been leaking brake fluid from the last time I tried to diagnosis the problem. This was my first time bleeding brakes and I did it using the gravity method. It worked out better than I expected. It was fairly quick too, about 10 minutes per side of dripping. I think I replaced a lot more brake fluid than I needed to but I wasn’t concerned.

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Every vehicle has either a timing belt or timing chain specified as the OEM part, and you should always replace your chain or belt with the equivalent part.

Welcome Tradebearings for basic bearing designations and dimensions enquiry system, Bearing types include commonly used ball and roller bearings, slewing bearings, and bearings used in automobiles, agriculture, excavators, and some bearings used on special equipment.

I’m not recommended this, but if you decide to replace the rotors for some reason, be sure to clean them thoroughly with hot water/soap before installing. They are coated with an anti-rust chemical, and forgetting to clean it off is the source of quite a few problems reported here.

Over the next couple of days, I observe that the car kind of “lurches” while creeping at very slow speeds. It also feels like there’s a kind of drag and release against the car… like something is holding it back and letting it go. It’s subtle but I can feel it at slow speeds.

If you have an IR thermometer, compare the difference in temperature between the passenger side front wheel and the driver side front wheel after a 5-10 minute drive at highway speeds. If you don’t, very carefully touch the wheel with your finger near the lugnuts to compare - but be warned, it might hurt if what I think is wrong is actually wrong.

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Spherical roller thrust bearings, also known as axial spherical roller bearings, have the highest load-carrying capacity of all thrust bearings.

It seems to me that if a caliper is sticking and not fully releasing that a pull would be more likely when the brakes were not being applied. Braking would even out the braking and tend to eliminate or reduce a pull.

The burning smell would be hot brakes, which you should really only smell if you’re in the vicinity of a race track. On a street car it means the brakes are being overworked, in your case because the brakes are rubbing on the rotor while you’re driving.

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Any time ever I’ve experienced a sticking caliper it was immediately or shortly following brake work (requiring retracting the caliper pistons). CSA