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I must point out that the Center Trac bearing that came with my shutter, was awful. It was shielded, loud, buzzy and never did very good. it “worked” but that was about it.

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Ceramic vs steel bearingsbike

2018225 — The 30–30 is a rimmed case of bullet diameter of nominally, .308″ diameter Primarily designed to be shot out of a lever-action Rifle such as ...

Ceramic Pros- No lube required (but still a good idea from time to time) Great Performance and impressive spin times on the bearing remover tool Longer life (Hybrid doesnt “pit” like SS does over time) High ratings for sustained RPM over long time (honestly, a bit overkill for yoyo)

I recently started using the MFD REvolution bearings that have ceramic balls inside a SS cage, and I must say that I really do like them. Smooth and silent.

Ceramic bearings vs steelcost

#1 - Terrapin X Ceramic Hybrid- Wing cut #2 - Buddha Ripple (or Center TraX (is this new formula?)) #3 - OneDrop 10 Ball #4 - KonKave #5 - Center Trac (stock on shutter)

Ceramic bearings vs steel vsstainlesssteel

But the Center Tra(X?) bearing that came with the Orca is pretty sweet actually. Non-sheilded, smooth as glass, and spins nearly as good as my favored ceramics.

Cons- may wear out faster QC may be lacking due to massive production numbers May be noisy or buzzy must be lubed sooner and later

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Ceramic vs steel bearingsknife

Is it possible for this to happen without also damaging the rims? A car hits bumps on the road all the time, with no damage to the wheel bearings, and so one would assume that for the bearings to be damaged, the bump would have to be so significant that the rims also would show the effect.

Highly unlikely. Since New Departure developed a certain heat-treatment ( in the 50's), wheel bearing life has been very long; consider how many bumps a bearing gets in 100,000 miles with no problem. Certainly they do fail but I would look at factors like Oldsmobile used under-size rear wheel bearings on the Cutlass around 1970. The last wheel bearing I put in was a 1985 Pontiac, and I have hit a lot of bumps since then ( I hate to admit I smashed 2 aluminum wheels .)

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Just sayin’, the material isn’t going to guarantee smooth and silent operation. Quality and performance characteristics will vary between vendors.

Yes, the force on the rim is spread over a relatively large area, that same force is acting on a much smaller area on the bearing so yes it can easily be damaged without damage showing on the rim or tyre.

So far stainless bearings have been very reliable for me I don’t see any reason to go with full ceramic, especially not with the price although I can see myself getting some if they cost the same as stainless. Probably the only noticeable difference play-wise is it makes the yoyo a little lighter, and sounds slightly different.

I love my ceramic bearing, and while not all of my throws have them, I do not regret getting one, and will like get a couple more at some point in the future for my most used yoyos.

Ceramic bearings vsstainlesssteel

I also do not prefer them overall. I like to lightly lube my bearings (for smoothness and lower volume!) and there doesn’t seem to be too much point getting ceramic/hybrid if I’m just going to throw a drop of lube in there.

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SHOP 6203 Ball Bearing from MISUMI today w/ our bearings selector. Brands Carried: MISUMI, NSK, NTN, Nachi-Fujikoshi, EZO. Seals: Z, ZZ, 2RS.

Some people love em, some people hate em, but the spin test for me is enough. after all, thats what a bearing is supposed to do, is spin really well, right? So the one that spins the longest for me, under my own form of testing tell me that some things may be worth the price tag. One just has to try it for themselves to see. While i dont like the sound, I do like A sound. OneDrop 10 Balls are leathally silent and while thats good for practice when the wife is sleeping, I dont like that at all. Not hearing it makes me feel disconnected. Like I have to guess more when I should bring it back. On a splash, sure, but a solid is invisible to the eye. anyway I digress…

Hybridceramic bearings

Stainless Steel Pros- CHEAP easy to find Great Performance many vendors and makers to choose from usually quiet (drop of lube and shhhhh) wide variety of side shapes (centering, flat, grooved, etc)

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My ceramic bearing (Terrapin X) are a little louder than most of my SS bearings, center trac excluded as its the loudest of the bunch. I also prefer dry lube which can also add to the noise a bit, but a drop of acetone and and quiets downs and spins for days. On a dry flick test the terapin out spins ALL my other bearings by nearly double if not more. After cleaning and bone dry, the ceramic outshines them all. After a lube job on both my SS’s and Hybrids they perform very similar, but I still prefer the Ceramic in my most favorite throws. Also really like the “wing” cut that centers the string but allows it to slide around as needed even though it looks and plays like a flat.

Ceramic bearings vs steelreddit

Again, not by material. You might have a particular brand that was smoother than particular brands of stainless you have used, though. Which ceramic do you use? Mine have universally been less smooth than the NSK or OD 10-ball, both of which are just stainless.

They’re not inherently quieter, though I believe some probably are (the CORE bearings that Northern Spin used to sell were pretty quiet!). I’ve had some downright rattly ceramic (full or just ceramic balls) bearings. Quietest bearing I ever played is the NSK Platinum concave bearing.

Ceramic bearings vs steelskateboard

202495 — RepairPal estimates a wheel bearing replacement will cost you between $300 and $400. This estimate can be accurate for most vehicles.

But in general I am ambivalent towards SS or Ceramic bearings. One thing is for sure in my mind: I don’t believe you need to spend more than $10 on a bearing in order to get good performance.

id never go full ceramic, but im gonna go ahead and pick up 2 more ceramic hybrids (terrapin x-wing cut) just cause they just do so dang well!

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