-VERY IMPORTANT! -MARK ALL WIRES TO THE IGNITION MODULE CONNECTOR WITH TAPE. Cut the wires on the harness outside metri-pack connector and splice the harness back together with shrink-butt crimp connectors. Soldering and heat shrink would also work.....BE CAREFUL! The harness wire length doesn't leave you much room for error.

Back probe the middle wire of the cam sensor (marked B and normally blue) with a voltmeter. Turn the key ON, but leave the engine OFF.

The following article describes how I updated my wiring harness and ECM to the newer '86-87 ECM. This update has several advantages over the original ECM such as:

This is where any performance gain/losses will occur. MAYBE advancing the cam sensor a bit might help a big cam engine that opens the intake sooner, I don't know. It definitely affects idle quality having the cam sensor out of adjustment. In my opinion I can't see how advancing the cam will help as you're practically in a batch fire mode at WOT where the injector is on practically the whole time. I can't see how a few msec sooner is going to have a great effect. SFI has it's greatest effect at idle & part throttle, and a misadjusted cam definitely can be felt here. Actually, the fueling can only sync off the crank signal too, with the cam telling it which crank pulse corresponds to which cylinder, so it you're off, you're off by a whole cylinder. It'll be a step function. Within a certain window, you'll be fueling the same cylinder, adjust some more, and you'll step into another one. I can't believe fueling the wrong cylinder can help performance no matter what cam you have.

This being the case, if you switch wires on the SAME coil (6&3, 1&4, 2&5) it won't make a bit of difference to the car - the plug that was "backward" firing before will now be "normal" and vice versa.

Once we have this info, cylinder #6 and #3 will fire. Remember this is a waste spark system (but I'm sure everyone knows that by now) so #6 will be on compression but #3 on exhaust, whose spark is wasted. It takes very little energy to fire a plug that's not under compression, so it's no big deal.

This means that the falling edge of the cam signal should occur 35 degrees after the rising edge of the crank signal. Remember that half a period (rising to falling edge or vice versa) of the crank signal is 60 crank degrees, so use it as a ref to measure the 35 degrees.

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Bearing radial loads are forces that are perpendicular to the axis of the shaft, parallel to the bearing's radius. Some examples of a radial load on a bearing ...

11. Fuel Injectors (6) 12. Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor 13. Fuel Pump Relay 14. Transmission Converter Clutch (TCC) Connector 15. Computer Controlled Coil (C3I) Ignition 16. Electronic Spark Control (ESC) Module 17. Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Vacuum Solenoid 18. Air Conditioning Compressor Relay 19. Fuel Vapor Canister Solenoid 20. Wastegate Control Solenoid

Moving the cam sensor a few degrees does nothing to the ignition timing. If the car runs, (and the 3x trigger on the balancer is mounted correctly by the factory) then your ignition timing will be EXACTLY what's in the spark map of the chip regardless of where the cam sensor is set.

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Bring #1 to TDC and then grab the intercooler fan and rotate the motor to your mark (25 degrees ATDC). This takes a little patience and muscle. You can try bumping it with the starter, but I'm never very successful at that.

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Type 1 Module is available from GM PartsDirect.com, P/N 24503624 for $154.06. Coil Pack is available at Summit P/N ACC-140016 for $85.95

NOTES: This procedure is easier if all sensors are disconnected. There are several sensors in the area and removing the wiring harnesses make your job easier. The intercooler does not have to be removed but removal of it and your serpentine belt will make rotating the engine easier. You must also remove the up pipe and intake hose between the MASS air sensor and the turbo.

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The intake hole for the turbo is split directing the flow to the right and left separately with the EGR port in the middle.

...

The perfect place to add a remote oil pressure sensor is the back of block. Remove the passengers side galley plug (must be passengers side) install fitting and run a hard (pre-made) brake line up through a hole that you will have to drill beside the knock sensor. Then put the oil pressure sensor at the rear of engine.

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Install the cam sensor. Cam sensor “window” will face towards the drivers side of the car. You may have to reposition the notch in the oil pump drive to mate with the cam sensor. Remember the gear drive is a helical cut, you will have to rotate the sensor counterclockwise so it will end up in the desired position. (There is not an exact position for the sensor as timing is determined by the adjusting procedure.)

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HOWEVER, adjusting the cam sensor has a tremendous effect on FUELING, as the SFI syncs off the cam too. I don't know much (yet) about the fueling specs, but it apparently has a much narrower window than ignition in order to sync to the wrong cylinder. This is why if you have the cam 180 deg out the car will run terribly because the fueling is all messed up. Basically it'll be in a SFI mode where fuel is puddling for 1 rev before being sucked in.

You can see where the EGR port comes through the intake from the head, it is directed to the turbo inlet through the valve and pipe(not pictured) to a large threaded hole on the side of the turbo inlet port on the intake

1. Electronic Control Module (ECM) 2. Assembly Line Diagnostic Link (ALDL) Connector 3. Service Engine Soon Light 4. ECM +12 Volt Connection 5. ECM Harness Ground 6. Fuse Panel

So you can see, on crank up and during limp-home mode, spark advance is 10 deg BTDC since the rising (active) edge of the crank signal occurs 10 deg BTDC of every cylinder.

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I received this list while at the junk yard.  It was generated from there computer using Hollander Number: 590-1554 Electronic Engine Control Module Hollander Listing.

Note also that the current goes through and fires one plug the "normal" way (center electrode to GND electrode), through the block, and fires the other plug "backwards" (GND electrode to center electrode).

I think that's it. Sorry, didn't mean to write a book. Isn't this info in the FAQ list or something? If not it needs to be. Too much misinformation out there. I should copyright this and charge! Now that it's posted on the list, everyone will be an expert on this and can claim "Oh yeah, I knew that stuff 10 years ago!" Yeah, right. But that's what this list is for, to educate Buick owners and admirers about their cars, so that they don't get ripped off by mechanics and such, right Scott?

The sensor is a hall effect device with a rotating metal ring that is driven from the front of the cam gear via a shaft (like a distributor). This ring passes thru a grooved sensor molded into the sensor cap. The metal ring has a notch or window cut out of it. When the window goes by the sensor, the voltage drops, which tells the ECM where #1 TDC is.

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The following is a list of cars that have the same ecm as the '86-87 GN's and T-Types.  They are suppose to be direct replacements less the prom:

I say if the car runs, because for ignition timing, all the cam sensor does is tell us which cylinder is #6. After the cam signal goes LOW, (stock spec is 25 deg ATDC of cylinder #1) the next RISING edge of the CRANK pulse will occur exactly 10 deg BTDC of cylinder #6.

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Spec is +- 5 degrees so you don't have to be exact. Also, obviously the engine has to be running to do this. Setting the CPS with a scope like this is the most accurate method, although the static method of setting the crank 25 degrees ATDC and twisting the CPS till you're on the borderline where it switches is probably within the 5 degree spec.

Several people have found that when running a bigger cam with advanced valve timing, it sometimes will help cure a popping or sputtering symptom by advancing the cam sensor a few degrees. The above values give you an idea of what to shoot for.

What happens if you unplug the cam sensor while the engine is running? Nothing. A malf code will set, but as long as you don't kill the engine it'll keep running perfectly (assuming the crank sensor is good.) Once you kill it though, it won't start again.

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The ECM controls idle rpm with the IAC (idle air control) valve. The idle rpm is programmed into the PROM. To increase idle rpm the ECM moves the IAC valve out allowing more air to pass by the throttle plate. To decrease rpm it moves the IAC valve in to reduce air past the throttle plate. A scan tool will read the ECM commands to the IAC valve in counts. Higher the counts the more the air is being allowed to pass the throttle plate (higher idle). Lower the counts the less the air is being allowed to pass the throttle plate (lower idle).

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So, I hope everyone's convinced that adjusting the cam sensor has absolutely no effect on ignition timing, but can only cause a no-start or tremendous backfire & stalling if running. A stretched/slipped timing chain therefore also has no effect on ignition timing.

Notice the oil residue...evidently the compressor seal on this particular turbo was leaking The compressor inlet hole is pretty small Again, you can see the O ringed adapter piece that fits into the intake manifold

Bring #1 to TDC and then grab the intercooler fan and rotate the motor to your mark (25 degrees ATDC). This takes a little patience and muscle. You can try bumping it with the starter, but I'm never very successful at that.

Falling edge of cam signal occurs 25 deg ATDC of #1 cylinder on compression stroke. Make SURE this is occurring on the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke of #1. If you do set the cam sensor to the exhaust stroke, it will be 180 cam degrees (360 crank degrees) out of sync - the engine will still run but not as well as fuel will be puddling for 1 crank rev.

IMPORTANT!! Study the attached "pin out" chart for '84-'85 C3I connector. Mark the current wires, (using small strips of masking tape), with their description and wire number! (You'll be amazed how much easier it'll be if you do!!!)

Therefore, if the cam signal wasn't there, you would never know which crank pulse signaled #6 (or any other cylinder for that matter).

What happens if you move the cam sensor while the engine is running? Every two revs, the cam sensor info is checked. If the cam sensor signal is present, it updates and resyncs. If not there, a malf code is set and the previous sync is used. See #9. For ignition, moving the cam sensor within that window where it syncs correctly does nothing. Move it outside that window and you'll backfire like never before, as you'll fire the wrong cylinder at the wrong time. Trust me, I had it happen. My cam sensor lost it's tab for the keyway on the shaft and started moving on it's own. Exploded my mufflers. I wrote a note about 2 months back about that.

Bearing Housing Assembly for Heavy wind sensors. This contains 2 of the 4 bearings in a TV-114. The other 2 are located inside of the generator assembly.

NO-START TEST Below is a series of tests to troubleshoot a 'no-start' condition. (I basically reprinted this from a GM troubleshooting flowchart, hopefully it will be of some help!) Below are links to repair manual pictures to reference from: ECM Plug Sensor Plugs You'll need to get at the ECM and the cam & crank sensors to do some voltage tests. If you have a NEEDLE type voltmeter, it may work better for these tests, as it will visibly "swing" when the sensor switches open & close (IF they're working okay!) Here goes: First, test your meter and ground! (see ECM Plug) Check connection A-6, "ign, ECM fuse" for 12 volts. (for ALL tests, BE SURE the negative lead of the voltmeter is connected to a GOOD GROUND!) #1- (see ECM Plug) With the key off, disconnect the ECM A-B connector. With the positive lead of the voltmeter, probe the B-5 connection (highlighted yellow, this is the crank sensor signal) Crank the engine and watch the meter...you should have varying voltage from 1 to 7 volts. If NOT okay, proceed to #2. If you ARE seeing correct voltage, your cam & crank sensors are okay, and your coil and/or ignition module may be the problem! You need to loosen the coilpack, and check the BLUE wire for 12 volts, key on. If it DOES have 12 volts, then the problem is likely the ignition module. #2- now probe the A-11 connection... (highlighted green, this is the cam sensor signal). Crank the engine...you should have varying voltage from 1 to 9 volts. If it IS okay, THE CAM SENSOR IS FINE, AND YOU ONLY NEED TO TEST THE CRANK SENSOR IN ALL FURTHER TESTS! If it's NOT okay, there's no cam sensor signal! Plug the ECM connector back in, and head for the sensors! #3 (see "Sensor Plug") Unplug the cam sensor plug. Turn the key "ON" ...On the MODULE SIDE of the plug, probe the "A" wire for voltage, after which probe the "B" wire for voltage. You should have between 5 and 11 volts on BOTH wires. If you ARE seeing correct voltage, THEN: with the negative lead of the voltmeter, probe the "C" wire, and with the positive lead probe the "A" wire. You should have between 5 and 11 volts. Note the results, then REPEAT THIS TEST WITH THE CRANK SENSOR PLUG! If ANY of the sensor plug tests FAILED, you have a probably ignition module problem... If ALL the sensor plug tests PASSED, then PLUG IN the sensor plugs, and proceed: #4. Test the cam sensor: Probe the "B" wire of the cam sensor, then crank the engine and watch the meter. You SHOULD have varying voltage between 1/2 and 9 volts. REPEAT THIS TEST WITH THE CRANK SENSOR! If either sensor fails this test, then it's possible that sensor is bad! If they PASS this test, it's likely the ignition module, or the connections TO the ignition module are bad) Hope this makes sense!

The sensor is a hall effect device with a rotating metal ring that is driven from the front of the cam gear via a shaft (like a distributor). This ring passes thru a grooved sensor molded into the sensor cap. The metal ring has a notch or window cut out of it. When the window goes by the sensor, the voltage drops, which tells the ECM where #1 TDC is.

So, moving the cam sensor within the window where the next rising crank pulse is the #6 cylinder has absolutely NO effect on actual ignition timing. Ignition timing calculations are based off the CRANK sensor, which cannot be adjusted short of modifying the balancer or retapping the crank sensor mounting location!

Notes. The links contain manufacturer's recommended torque values. If you have aftermarket parts or fasteners, please follow the installation instructions that ...

This ECM Chart is for use with a digital voltmeter to further aid in diagnosis. The voltages you get may vary due to low battery or other reasons, but should be close. The ECM has 2 connectors: 1 24-pin (A&B) and a 32-pin (C&D)

Back probe the middle wire of the cam sensor (marked B and normally blue) with a voltmeter. Turn the key ON, but leave the engine OFF.

After much testing, I must suggest that you also get a 86/87 MAF part #25007866. The calibration of the 84/5 MAF is different and gave drivability problems with the 1227148 ECM, when cold weather came upon us in St.Louis. The colder air sensed by the MAT richened up the fuel air ratio, trying to compensate for the denser air, to the point that the car would belch black smoke out of the exhaust. Switching to the 86/7 MAF cured the problem. First off I went to the U-Pullit and got a wiring harness out of a FWD GM car with a '86-87 3.0-3.8 V-6 in it. When I removed the wiring harness, I removed the relays and sensors that were plugged into it too. Then I striped the harness down and dissected it wire by wire. This way, I got all the fan relays AND the MAT sensor w/plug and wire to the ECM. The wires at the ECM plug come out with a large paper clip (or jewlers screwdriver) inserted into the release hole. If you have never had a wire out of the ECM plug before, I suggest a little practice on the OTHER harness first! Before your car can be driven without the SES light on, the MAT sensor must be put in. I cut a hole in the bottom of the K&N right in front of the MAF sensor to sample the incoming air temperature. Then I took the sensor plug/wire and ran it to the ECM by poking thru the grommet on the speedometer cable. I use wire loom in the engine compartment to dress things up and make things look factory. I ran the wire to the ECM under the dash carefully staying away from the gas and brake pedals. The MAT uses the same sensor ground as the TPS and CTS ,so I spliced into the ground wire at the ECM (D-12 black,no stripe). The other wire from the MAT sensor needs to be plugged into pin #C-11 (tan) at the ECM, this is where the wire from the other car came into play. It should still have the clip on the end that will plug straight into C-11 on the ECM plug. The ECM can come out of a 86 century but be sure to have the part #1227148 ECM. The dealer gave me two part #'s for the cal-pak in the ECM, they are 16036503 and 16036504. My 84 ECM HAD the 16036504 in it so I used it. Pitch any other cal-pak with a different number. I downloaded a ROM file from the archives for the prom. Any 86-7 chip should do. Use a stocker to get things going. But with the addition of the MAT sensor, and the chips to the ECM, this will plug straight in and run.(without the MAT sensor) As far as the electric fan setup goes, This IS an option. The fan control at the ECM is pin #D-2. This circuit grounds a relay when active. There are many ways to wire and electric fan. So I will not go into too much on it right now. I wired up the 10 min timer to come on if the car shuts off and the temp sensor in the radiator is tripped (about 195 deg) with the fan on high. The fan also runs on hi when the ECM calls for it. I have the low speed coming on with the A/C. To get more acquainted with the fan circuit (and ECM) I went to the library and looked up all the different years in the Mitchell manual. Take a bunch of dimes and copy the pages that you are interested in, like the ECM pinout and the fan setup on several cars. I found some pusher/puller fan setups too. As you should always do when splicing/adding wires. I use a 150 watt or so soldering gun and rosin core electrical solder to solder ANY connections you make. There is nothing more frustrating than looking for an electrical "gremlin" than to find out that YOU were the cause of it by not doing it right the first time. Get the wire good and hot so the solder can flow into it. Also use HEAT SHRINK! Tape tends to come loose and fall off over a period of time, and get "gooey". At the ECM , taking the wire out of the plug , stripping a small area bare a couple of inches from the plug and solder the wires together. Then, slip on the heat shrink, and make sure it shrinks good. By following my procedures outlined here, the ECM can be changed (less fan circuit) in about 30 minutes if you have all the stuff already.

So what happens when you move the cam sensor beyond that window and the next crank pulse is either #1 or #5 (depending on the direction you moved it) and not #6? You guessed it, the #6/3 coil will still fire, but the #6 won't be anywhere near TDC and the engine will either kick back or just not run. Regardless, if you get the cam sensor out of adjustment enough to affect ignition timing, it'll simply be out of sync so much the car won't run. That's why if the car is actually running, you can bet the ignition timing is dead on.

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Gasket kit, Front cover (Includes cover gasket, water pump gasket, mechenical fuel pump block off plate gasket. This kit will also fit Buick 3.0L FWD V6)

25. Exhaust Oxygen (O2) 26. Throttle Position (TPS) 27. Coolant Temperature 28. Camshaft Position 29. Crankshaft Position 30. Mass Air Flow (MAF) 31. Knock Sensor 32. Transmission Park/Neutral (PN) Switch 33. Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) 34. MAP Sensor

Note: Occasionally a TPS will need the moon shaped grooves honed out a bit with a rat tail file to get enough adjustment, but normally the trick of moving the sensor as far forward as possible gives enough adjustment. Also, be very careful around the little roll pin that rests on the throttle lever, since it can bend or break.

The bottom of the intake shows some of the flow path.  Air enters the intake flows to the front of the intake and turns back and is distributed to the intake runners.

Rotate the sensor counterclockwise. As you rotate the sensor, the voltage will drop to “0". Secure the hold down bolt at this location.

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This brings up some more points. (Might as well be thorough) What happens if you set the cam sensor 180 degrees out? For ignition, nothing. The plug that was supposed to be on compression will now be on exhaust, and vice versa. The car doesn't care! Ignition will be perfect. Fueling, on the other hand, is a different story. More on that later.

Measure on a piece of masking tape and mark it at 1.45". Apply the tape to the left side of the vibration damper at the TDC timing mark.

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I'm sure there are more reasons to change to the newer ECM, but these are the major reasons, feel free to think up your own too. I have received a lot of e-mail from people wondering if the car will run faster or get better ET's from the conversion. None of this will happen UNLESS it stems directly from the advantages listed above.

To adjust the Throttle Position Sensor to recommended settings of between 0.40-0.46 volts at idle and between 4.5 and 4.8 volts at Wide Open Throttle (WOT). This procedure should be performed after the minimum idle air settings are already made (via the IAC reset procedure).

Turn ignition key to “ON” position. Do not crank engine. Using a voltmeter, probe the “B” wire connection on the harness to the cam sensor.

The hold down bolt is either a 14mm or 9/16. I always use a 14mm 1/4 inch drive. I've done it with a 3/8 drive and u-joint, but the CPS itself is kinda in the way as the bolt is kinda tucked under it. In some cars (mine for instance), the CPS distributor shaft is put in in such a way that once the CPS is correctly set, the "ears" that bolt the plastic cover to the unit are directly in the way of the hold down bolt so you can't get a socket wrench on it. In those cases you have to pull the shaft out and reposition it.

May 27, 2018 — If it's bad to the point where it's making a lot of noise it should really wiggle. On the front wheels you might also get some jiggle front to ...