Wheel bearing torquechart

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Axle nuttorque specschart

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Home Forums Post Viet-Nam to Desert Storm Vehicles CUCV JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Front Wheel Bearing Lock Nut Torque M1028A1 Thread starter 319 Start date Sep 13, 2009 ••• More options Who Replied? Sep 13, 2009 #1 319 Lieutenant Steel Soldiers Supporter 3,348 57 48 Location Michigan Repacked front wheel bearings on my 1986 M1028A1 and torqued the nuts according to the -20 TM. Afterwards I looked at the Chilton's manual and got conflicting information. The -20 TM says to torque the inner nut to 50 ft lbs, loosen it, then re-torque to 50 ft lbs. Back the nut off lining up the pin on the nut with a hole in the washer, then torque the outer nut to 160 ft lbs. The Chilton's manual says to torque the inner nut to 50 ft lbs, loosen then re-torque to 35 ft lbs., install the washer, then torque the outer nut to 65 ft lbs for 1 ton vehicles. (The Chilton's manual also says 160-205 ft lbs on 1981 and later 1/2 and 3/4 ton models.) Anyone know which is correct? A forum search did not answer my specific question.   Sep 13, 2009 #2 kennyw Member 263 4 18 Location Stones Throw from Reiter, WA The correct procedure according to my 1979 GM factory service manual: Torque the inner nut to 50 ft-lbs while rotating the bearing hub, then back off and re-torque to 35 ft-lbs while rotating the bearing hub. Then, back off the inner nut again 3/8 turn maximum. Next install washer and outer nut and torque to 65 ft-lbs. Hub should have .001 to .010 inch end play for all K10, K20, and K30 models   Sep 13, 2009 #3 319 Lieutenant Steel Soldiers Supporter 3,348 57 48 Location Michigan Those are the figures (50/35/65) I'm leaning towards. I'll re-torque and drive around for a while and see what happens. I also located a Spicer (Dana) maintenance manual for the 60 and it says to torque both at 50 ft lbs. It isn't specific to model years though. Thanks   Sep 13, 2009 #4 kennyw Member 263 4 18 Location Stones Throw from Reiter, WA Either way, you should back off the inner nut after the final torque to achieve the .001-.010 end play when your done. The torque of the outer locknut should not affect much at 60 or 160 ft-lbs. It just keeps the washer in place, which keeps the inner locknut from backing out/rotating.   Sep 13, 2009 #5 OLDCHEV4X4 New member 690 2 0 Location Glenmoore PA kennyw said: Torque the inner nut to 50 ft-lbs while rotating the bearing hub, then back off and re-torque to 35 ft-lbs while rotating the bearing hub. Then, back off the inner nut again 3/8 turn maximum. Next install washer and outer nut and torque to 65 ft-lbs. Hub should have .001 to .010 inch end play for all K10, K20, and K30 models Click to expand... This is how i do it too. On Dana 44, 10 bolt, and Dana 60.   Sep 13, 2009 #6 319 Lieutenant Steel Soldiers Supporter 3,348 57 48 Location Michigan Thanks for the input guys, I had a feeling when I looked at the TM that it just didn't seem accurate.   You must log in or register to reply here. Share: Facebook Twitter Reddit Pinterest Tumblr WhatsApp Email Link Home Forums Post Viet-Nam to Desert Storm Vehicles CUCV