Steel Open Ball Bearing - ABEC-1 - 12mm ID x 37mm OD ... - abec 12 bearings

2024-09-20 01:13:50

My truck has had bilstein 5100's all around top height setting for the last 40-45k miles + 1" taller rear blocks. Not sure if that really made a difference or not w/ the life of the bearing, I do use 4wd fairly regularly in the winter months & maybe 1-2x per month in non-winter.

I have the OEM's on my 14 with 48k miles and they are perfect. In my previous vehicle (04 GMC Envoy) I replaced the bearings on the fronts 4 times. They are pretty much the same as my envoy to do on the silverado. All you really need is a good socket set and a cheater bar to crack the bolts loose. If you have an impact gun and some swivel extensions it will work easily for you. I used the impact gun to take off the CV nut and then my ratchet and extension to take off the 3 bolts behind the steering knuckle to remove the bearing.

I suspect one of mine is on its way out. Just under 60k miles. Good to hear it’s not an expensive part, and I’ve done them before on different vehicles. It’s probably not hard.

What causeswheelbearings to go bad

150k and stock bearings. I have them ready to go as I know I'm getting close. I'm extremely pleased with this truck. She hasn't had an easy life and it's holding up just fine!

I ordered Timken part#HA590491 from rock auto for $135 (dealer/shop price is $300-$350 if you can believe that) - I only ordered the one that was noisy & opted to go w/ Timken since it was actually a little less than the AC Delco/OEM part- and considering the factory part starting going @ 45-50k miles (now truck is @ 55k miles & it clearly needs replacement) - figured I'd try an alternative.

You don't drive much Grumps? I'm at 2.85 million miles on my 16th Chevy truck. In all those miles I've replaced 2 wheel bearings same truck 2003 2500HD Duramax. Keys cranked may have h

If the thread is long enough then a double nut method can work but is still not as effective as a lock nut, the double nut method is relying on the tension of the two nuts done up together and when heat is applied to them from the heat of your manifold or turbo they can still expand and work themselves loose.

I'm at almost 75,000km (~47,000 miles) & mine are still fine. They are doing waaaay better than my old '06, which had both replaced by this many KM. I had to replace them on that truck about every 50-70,000km regardless of which brand I used. If it's similar to replacing them as on the GMT 800's, it's about a 1-3 hrs job, depending on a few factors & what tools you have access to.

You don't drive much Grumps? I'm at 2.85 million miles on my 16th Chevy truck. In all those miles I've replaced 2 wheel bearings same truck 2003 2500HD Duramax. Keys cranked may have h

How longwill awheel bearing lastonce it starts making noise

Seemed like something that I did way more frequently back in the day...Now, it seems like I forget about the bearings as they last so much longer and they are now all in one units!

Flange nuts are a better option than the spring washer and nylock nut in a high heat enviroment, but the main issue with flange nuts and installing turbo's or manifolds is the flange section has a large surface area which can hit welds on the manifold flange. This will prevent the nut from tightening up correctly to the flange face, if not spotted while tightening the nut it can bend the stud and break if over tightened.

How longcan you drive on a badwheel bearing

How long should wheel bearing lastin a car

An automotive lock nut is used in conjunction with an exhaust stud, a lock nut is just like a standard nut, but the lock nut has the added function of locking itself to the stud (thread). There are various types of lock nuts and we have pictured a few of the common ones. They each have a different way of locking to the threads.

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That means it is still a force directed along the axis of the rod. However the cut plan is not perpendicular to the rods axis. So we can now ...

A turbo manifold is subject to high heat which is generated from the turbo charger, this heat along with vibration from a high revving engine is a environment where nuts expand from the heat and work there way loose.

Premature frontwheel bearingfailure can be caused by excessive

Interchange part numbers for TIMKEN, applications, OEM cross references, technical details, size, weight.

I suspected I've had a driver's front wheel bearing on its way out for some time, mentioned to the dealer 3x & every time they told me "its fine" - now of course, out of warranty had my regular mechanic check out & confirmed my suspicions.

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A copper lock nut really becomes useful when mounting a turbo to manifold or manifold to engine cylinder head, these can also be used as a general locking nut for all components.

Nylock nuts have a nylon section in the end of the nut that grips to the thread, these are a good way to mount all other parts in the engine bay that are not subject to heat, but not for mounting turbos or manifolds. As soon as heat is applied to the nylon section it melts away and the nut is then just like a standard nut and will vibrate loose.

117k and counting. Seems most of my vehicles regardless of make get between a 100-130k out of them. Did have a Dodge go through the driver one in 80k miles but the passenger one went 200k miles.

How long should wheel bearing lastreddit

The only way I know how to tell is by the howl/ growling sound. And the key is the noise is directly proportional to wheel speed.

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The only way I know how to tell is by the howl/ growling sound. And the key is the noise is directly proportional to wheel speed.

We recommend the copper locknuts for the installation of our SINCO turbo manifolds as these have the smallest hex or spanner size which is a benefit when trying to access the nuts with spanners around turbo housings and manifold runners. For e.g - The m10 copper locknuts have a spanner size of 14mm while the other types can be up to 17mm.

Your turbo flange lock nuts will be subject to higher temperatures than your manifold to cylinder head ones, we recommend replacing your lock nuts every time they are taken off.

Just had an original hub replaced on my work beater @ 190,000 miles. Not the same parts as the truck, but that one got Timkens. I had a local mechanic install it for me and it was maybe 2 hours of labor tops.

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When copper locknuts have been subject to high temperatures they will be re-tempered to some extent. While they remain in place the locking section generally stays tight against the thread, but when the nut is taken off the re-tempered locking section looses the ability to lock onto the thread as effectively.

Anyone else had to replace wheel bearings yet? How long they lasting & what brand did you go with? How many hrs labor should I expect from a shop? I'm contemplating just doing this repair myself it seems very straightforward, just wish I had the part when I was doing brakes 6 weeks ago.

Cage & roller assemblies are easy-to-handle bearings that offer high load capacity despite their small size. A unique cage structure guides the needle rollers ...

Springs washers work by using tension from the cut section that is pressed apart to lock the nut in place. When subject to heat these re-temper and loose that tension which means they become just like a standard flat washer. We DO NOT recommend using spring washers to install a turbo or turbo manifold

Wheel bearingreplacement cost

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Wheel bearingnoise

From past experience with my Envoy, I used Napa pro series for the bearings and didn't have to replace them and I put 30k miles on those before I traded it in for my silverado. I had the cheap ones from advance auto and I went through them once a year and I had no lift, modifications, never go off-roading, anything that would degrade your bearings life. I knew mine were failing when I would go to stop at low speeds and the ABS would kick in for a second. Then as it progressed I would hear the moaning when I would turn the wheel at highway speeds.

My 2014 Silverado has aluminum a-arms and I have been running 2" spacers for around 2 years now. Currently at 62k and no issues.

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that's the brand I ordered. I haven't gotten around to install yet but it really shouldn't be difficult - as another poster mentioned CV nut then 3 bolts that attach the hub + the wheel speed/abs sensor plug, that's pretty much it. I imagine I'll have to use a wedge/chisel/mallet to get the bad one off, probably stuck pretty good. I will get some pics of the old bearing once it is off.

Yes, you can usually tell which side by the sound when you make a turn. If you turn right and it gets louder it is the left front wheel and turn left it is the right front wheel. Basically the extra weight that is applied to that wheel when you make the turn increases the noise.

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