While driving to mechanics is more convenient and also time-saving, feel free to replace the bearings at home if you already have all the required tools ready. Write me letters if any type of wheel bearing issues persist

Another way to check for a worn bearing is with the tire off the ground, place your hand on the strut spring. Now slowly rotate the tire. If the bearing worn, the roughness of the bearing will be transfered into the strut spring where it can be felt.

Loosen them with a ratchet (1/2 inches) and proper size sockets. Remember just to loosen them; don’t remove the nuts completely yet.

The average pricing range can stoop as low as $107-$147 (DIY) to as high as $400-$1000 (mechanic) – depending on whether you prefer DIY procedures or mechanic supports.

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I asked my younger brother who was in town for business to drive my car tonight to see if it was making any noise. Sure enough it was. My brother said it was roaring loudly from the front end driving from 25 MPH to highway speed. More scary now since I can’t hear that and not know if it will break on me… I think this is more definite confirmation the CV axles are about to disintergate on me so I will have them replaced this week and post back on if it was the culprit.

Not to mention, not everyone is familiar with the technical aspects of the vehicle; jumping blindly into it without proper research might end up costing you even more than it should have.

Technically, you can, but it’s extremely dangerous. Premature/ uneven tire wear, worn transmission, and even explosions are inevitable.

One is to jack the vehicle up so that tire is off the ground. Grab the tire at the 12:00 and 6:00 oclock positions and try rocking the top and bottom of the tire in and out to check for play in the bearing. If the tire rocks that bearing is worn.

My insightful guide, while not offering direct solutions to your budget-saving goal, can still deliver helpful advice regarding the cost and alternative replacement methods. Keep scrolling.

Regular wheel maintenance schedules should include frequent wheel bearing checks; that has always been a rule of thumb. However, it is the cost to replace wheel bearings that gives people a headache, as they are uncertain whether these upgrades may give huge blows to the financial budgets.

The feelings you describe certainly seems like a wheel bearing. However, worn-out brakes can also cause this feeling. Worn-out brakes typically feel worse when braking-however. If the feeling only seems to get worse when turning, I think you are on the correct track in assuming a bad bearing.

Yes, that would be the problem. In all likelihood, that joint needs repairing/replacing. Common repairs often fail (seems to be the consensus from this thread), and since you’re now feeling a humming, that implies there’s some damage to the joint itself. Your best bet, at this point, is to replace the axle with a new or rebuilt unit. Again, the consensus here is that rebuilt shafts don’t work all that well, nor last that long.

Rearwheel bearingreplacementcost

The bottom line is that you’ve searched properly for the source of the vibration, you’ve found that you need new half-shafts, so go ahead and fix that first, then see how it feels.

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Use a ratchet to unbolt brackets and brake calipers from the spindles. Once done, remove the calipers with a screwdriver.

Roaring is usually a sign of a bad wheel bearing and as it get worse will usually turn into a popping or grinding noise, at this point they’re usually on their last few miles.

I’m not sure who it was (Caddyman? Keith? Someone else?) who had a link for replacement shafts that aren’t much more than rebuilds, but seem to be much more reliable. Hopefully they’ll pop on soon and post the link for you.

Put your new bearings into the rotor’s back and apply some grease to the cavity’s interior. Next, install the new seals over the bearing before placing the new retaining nuts on their spindles.

Block the tires opposite your chosen wheel using a chock. For illustration, if you change the front bearings from the driver’s side, then remember to chock the rear wheels from the passenger’s.

I’d go ahead and replace the half shaft that has the torn boot. It’s likely the CV joint is damaged from lack of grease and dirt and water getting to it.

To save you hours of research, my team has compiled the average price range of some of the most commonly-asked cars. If yours does not make its way into this list, I suggest consulting your dealer or manufacturer.

Just to let you know, I’ve worked on cars for over 20 years, and most of the problems I encounter are determined more by feel than by sound. While I can hear problems in cars as they are pulled up, determining the cause of the sound almost always comes down to feeling for the problem. If you are unable to determine the cause of the vibration yourself, please let a mechanic look it over for you. The feeling your describing appears to be coming from the wheel/hub/suspension components none the less, and a failed component in this area is very dangerous and can lead to loss of control.

Unfortunately, the front wheel bearing replacement cost is much more expensive than its rear counterparts. The average labor cost runs from $350 to $550, while the pricing for replacement parts is $150 to $300.

If you want to play on the safer side and replace every bearing, expect to spend between $800 and $1000 in total. Unless you are already covered by special warranty policies, the overall costs can be quite a blow for most vehicle owners.

Wheel Bearing costAutoZone

Lift the car off the ground with two jack stands. That way, you will find it easier to remove the tire for ball bearing replacements.

An abnormality in tire tread wear can also mimic a worn wheel bearing and this is easily checked. I assume this has been done. Another possibility could be a failed motor mount which could set up a quirky vibration. (Check the dog bone mount under the hood on the passenger side top. That’s the most common failure and easily fixed if a problem.)

Ok now…I jacked up the front of the car and did the “12:00 and 6:00” method. Both wheels are tight and snug. I did the hot wheel temperature and both wheels are cool to the touch. With that, I could have ruled out wheel bearings. Now I decided to take a look under the right front corner. And I found the CV joint boot had thrown grease from the boot all over. I think the CV joint is the culprit. Could a bad CV joint cause all this vibration and humming sound?

Does the bearing stay flush against the spindle? If so, I suggest removing the spindles – then taking both the bearings and spindles to the nearest repair shop.

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Replacing wheel bearings is a piece of cake and can save quite a few bucks, guaranteed you ALREADY have all these tools at home:

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Locate the rotor faces and place them face down on the ground (the back facing upwards). Then take your new bearing and push its bearing greases into your casing.

Hence, I often try to save the cost of wheel bearing by fixing/ swapping only one bearing. It is much cheaper than simultaneous front/rear replacements (refer to the pricing section above) while still delivering impeccable performance.

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Roaring is usually a sign of a faulty wheel bearing, not a CV joint. If this turns out to be a wheel bearing I would suggest replacing both sides if possible

The best way to test for a bad bearing is to jack up the wheel from the suspected axle side and do a manual feel test. If the properly mounted wheel can be wiggled up and down and side to side, this is a sure sign the wheel bearing has failed. If the wheel bearing is simply worn, but holding, the wheel should be removed, the brake pads removed, and the axle spun by hand. A good wheel bearing with allow the axle to spin smoothly with some small amount of resistance. If you feel any roughness in the spinning motion, the wheel bearing is probably bad.

I can confirm for you that a bad CV joint can manifest itself as a 'buzz saw" vibration in the steering wheel. As can other things.

Having now heard that it’s producing a “roaring” sound, I too think it sounds like a bearing. However, you know you need half-shafts anyway, so I’d do those first and see how it feels.

Yes. Since wheel bearings and brake rotors are aligned, failed bearings will loosen the brake rotors and cause violent wobbles.

I have a question…I have a '03 Toyota Camry with 4 cyl and auto trans. This has 118k miles. I’m wanting to know what symptoms bad wheel bearings will give. Why? I am Deaf and obviously can’t hear. I know there’s a way to test for bad wheel bearings by wheel but I’m wanting to know if can do it by feeling? Whenever I’m driving between 40-50 mph, I get a very fine humming feel on my steering wheel. I can sense if there is a wheel out of balance but this doesn’t feel like it…my steering wheel feels like a vibrating sander, you know? Just wondering if that means bad wheel bearings or something else? Thanks!

If the right CV joint is bad, I will go ahead and replace the left one too since it probably isn’t far behind. I just would like confirmation that a bad CV joint can cause all this? Thanks for your advice!

Mechanic experts will have specialized tools to help press out those old bearings for you. After the new bearings are pressed in, technicians will re-install the spindles onto the vehicle.

Ok thanks for the diagnosis. Can it be determined how much it would cost to replace wheel bearings in my area (Knoxville, TN)? Should it be inexpensive? Thanks.

Failed wheel bearings do indeed make noise, can sound like snow tires at high speed…As Knuckles said, you can jack up the wheels one at a time and FEEL & LOOK for play in the wheels…

For what it’s worth, I’ve had bad hearing for decades for a variety of reasons and as a mechanic I’ve had to focus more on attuning myself to the feel of a problem rather than the audible end of things. So yes, you can determine many faults by feel instead of with the ears.

Anytime I suspect a bad wheel bearing I jack up the suspected corner of the car and try to wiggle the wheel while watching for play in the hub area. Just the wheel moving could be a sign of a bad ball joint or tie rod end, but if it’s moving in the hub area it’s the wheel bearing. If you have an infrared thermometer check the temperature of the wheels after driving a few miles. If a wheel bearing is bad usually there will be a significant amount of heat transfer to the wheel. If you check the temperature by hand be careful, I’ve seen wheels get extremely hot from a bad wheel bearing. I actually saw the hub and wheel on my father in laws truck smoking from the heat of bad bearing one time and the lug nuts were so hot I couldn’t touch them.

There is no point in choosing to do it on your own if these tools have not yet been purchased; buying all of these equipment pieces in one go can be even pricier than having it done by auto mechanics.

In general, you may expect to invest $190 to $310 for parts associated with the rear bearing replacements. Meanwhile, the labor charges fluctuate from $250 to $400.

Once gathering the required supplies, you should prep the car beforehand to ensure maximum safety. To begin, park the vehicle on an even, level surface.

Now that the vehicle is safely secured and lifted, you can proceed to remove the nuts completely. Once done, pull the tires off and place them aside.

Frontwheel bearingreplacementcost

A wheel bearing is often stored within the disc brake rotors, meaning you have to pry the dust cap off to expose retaining nuts and cotter pins. A couple of pliers will be your trusted ally in such cases.

Douglas Mercer is an automotive service manager with 12-year experience at Stockton Wheel Service, Douglas excels in addressing intricate tire and wheel concerns as plating wheels, straightening bent wheels, widening stock wheels, and precisely correcting offset and back-spacing…

Many folks misdaignose problems as tire related when they are actually bearing and CV joint related. I think Busted is right - especially about not waiting to get this looked at.