When it’s time to replace a wheel hub assembly on a vehicle, it’s important to use a high quality replacement unit. This post has 3 great reasons to avoid using a cheap, low quality wheel hub assembly.

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Worn bearings become loose. As a result, excessive runout happens. This causes the brakes to pulsate or pull. In other cases, a corroded or pitted bearing transmits the vibration through the steering. This can cause pulling to one side, too. Your vehicle will pull to the side of the failed wheel bearing.

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I would recommend taking the hub to a local garage and for a very small fee of around £10 they will press out the old bearing and fit the new one. I have done this several times and found the garages very accommodating. All you then need to do is fit the hub assy. Failing that you could knock them out but I recommend you take the easy option as you may damage the bearing trying to fefit it. They are very tight.

This noise is particularly prominent when the vehicle is traveling in a straight line. It gets worse when the vehicle is turning slightly at a speed of 15-50 mph. In a normal situation, you can pinpoint the problematic wheel bearing if you hear this noise. In most cases, the bad bearing is the cause of the rumbling noise.

At GMB, we make OE-quality wheel hub assemblies for many different makes and models. We have been manufacturing wheel hubs for over 70 years. Our wheel hub assemblies are among the best on the market. Read more about GMB hub assemblies and wheel bearings here.

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Bearing race insertion: Before you try to get the new races in, you need to take the old races and cut each across using a rotary tool, saw, angle grinder or the like. Stick the new races in the freezer, this will cause them to shrink (30 minutes at least in the freezer). Heat the hub again, this will cause it to expand. Get one of the frozen races from the freezer and quickly drop it into the hole. If you're lucky the combination of the expansion of the hub and contraction of the ring may let the ring just drop straight down.

Next clean the hub up, remember it's still hot! Get all the grease, grime and dirt off or it's going to get into the new bearings. Inspect it for cracks while it's clean.

all these answers are right and correct the simple answer is often it can be done with a simple threaded rod and washer spacer and nut setup given mentioned, it was designed to be replaced if fuck all else won't work or you simply don't have any other means sadly some times the only answer is to replace the part. which is the manufacturer being a greedy so&so. if you have the option do it yourself is always best. they make ratcheting box end wrentchs these days, get yourself a proper set. getting proficient in doing things yourself is ever gratifying it makes you strong inside where it counts. The spacer can be made from stock and rifle drilled or heavy walled tubing again sometimes the best tool for the job is the one you make. and then you will have it forever/Threading dies for ID AND OD are always a good idea to keep on hand take good care of your affairs and you will be well kept friend. a good machinist and a mechanic is a happy man.

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Once you have the races in and the bearings greased and inserted you need to get the seals on, most of the time these are synthetic and can be tapped in with a rubber mallet, but sometimes using the old seals to protect the new ones is a good idea as well.

“Unusual noises” is quite vague, but for a good reason. There are many, many unusual noises associated with a worn wheel hub bearing. Some of the most common noises include:

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First you need a hammer, punch, gloves, safety glasses, a torch and a piece of scrap wood to go between the hub and whatever surface you're hammering the hub on. After removing wheel from the hub you should be able to get the seals and bearings out with basic tools (Keep the seals for the time being). Once you have those out you need to get the inner bearing races off, which is the more challenging part. To do that you heat the hub it using a torch until the bearing grease starts to drip out, then hammer the races out using the punch. There will be grooves machined out of the hub to do this, you just hammer one side, then the other until it drops. Flip and repeat for the other race (assuming you have 2). Keep the old races.

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There's other options than reusing the old races for getting the new ones in that work better, providing you can find materials of the right diameter. A length of steel pipe just smaller than the race works great, as does a big socket.

When a wheel hub bearing goes bad, you may feel some looseness in the steering wheel. When a bearing wears down, it becomes loose within the wheel hub and spindle. This will make your steering wheel feel loose.

If you're me that won't happen as it's never that easy, this is where the old bearing races come in. You could use the hammer and punch on the new races directly, and I've heard of people doing this successfully without damaging them, however it's risky. Put the old race on top of the new one and hammer on that instead, the old race will spread the force out and prevent damage. The slit cut through it will keep it from getting stuck along with the new race. Work around, hammering as you go until it's seated. Note that this method can be annoying and time consuming as the old race has a habit of jumping out. Repeat for the other side, you will probably want to reheat the hub.

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A worn wheel hub bearing is a pretty big deal. If you let it go on long enough, the wheel could literally fall off while you’re driving. That could cause a catastrophic accident that puts your life and others’ lives at risk. That’s why it’s important to watch out for bad wheel hub symptoms.

If you hear a grinding noise, that means there’s a loss of integrity in the steering or suspension system. For instance, there may be roller or raceway damage. When you have a worn wheel hub bearing, this noise is prominent when the vehicle is turning.

When your wheel is vibrating and/or wobbling, the bearing is very loose. It’s because the bearing has lost its clamp. There may be some severe mechanical damage, too.

This happens when the wheel bearing becomes bad enough. Most likely, you will hear noises before uneven tire wear happens. A worn wheel bearing makes the wheel loose. This causes the tire to wear out unevenly.

The crackling noise is a result of a worn or damaged outer CV-joint. It may also mean excessive bearing endplay due to poor clamping.

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When a wheel hub bearing wears out, it puts extra stress on the CV-joint. That can cause the knocking/clunking noise when you turn the vehicle.

I've replaced bearings without either a puller or a press, it's perfectly doable, although a bearing insertion set does make things much easier. These are cheap and you can get them off the internet. Failing that you can do without.