p.s. the new poly v belts do have a replacement schedule as per the manufacturer - about 2 years to be on the safe side - it is really hard to establish condition on them - it was discussed in a thread long ago - and I would rather spend $20 than an afternoon at the side of a road

A timing belt is a very tough, rubbery strap that works to synchronise the motion of an engine’s camshaft and crankshaft.

ENGINE WON’T START: If the timing belt/chain is broken, then the contact between crankshaft and camshaft is lost and the engine won’t be able to kick into life.

I have been searching for instructions on replacing the alternator and water pump belt and AC belt. Has anyone done this themselves? I'm curious about how to access the belts and looking for information on adjusting the belt tension. Also is it really necessary to change belts after only 27,000 km? They look fine, but for reasons I don't understand should be replaced very frequently on the cdi.I have about 27,000 km on my smart and put about 300 km a day on it 5 days a week. I love the car, but I quickly learned that servicing the smart car at the dealership is just not affordable. I bought the car to save money on fuel and any savings I might have go directly to the dealership for their ridiculous service fees. After the Surrey dealership charged an additional $80 to replace my airfilter for the B service, something that takes less than a minute, I will avoid dealerships unless absolutely necessary.

Yesterday my alternator belt snapped on my way to work. I knew what it was right away - it was pretty loud, and I lost all heat in the car. I still managed to drive about 8 kilometres to work, but it was a little nervous! I turned off everything electrical in the car (heated seats, fan, headlights) and drove really slowly. Luckily it was quite cold outside, so I didn't overheat the engine - it did get up to 4 blobs, though. Amazing, huh? Doesn't overheat even though the water pump is not pumping coolant. The battery light came on, but I wasn't worried about that - I knew that was simply because the alternator was no longer functional. Anyhow... I got to my work where fortunately we have a shop, so I parked inside and went on my merry way. I came back the next day with my spare belt and some tools, and set down to change the belt.This is not really a roadside repair, unless you are really in the middle of nowhere. The car is still driveable for a short distance with the belt shredded, but you probably don't want to go too far. Enough to find a safe place to pull over.Here is the procedure:1) Jack up the car and take off off the passenger-side rear wheel. Prop the car up as high as possible, because you are going to be on your back most of the time.2) Take out the inner fender cover. There are 3 plastic nuts that hold it in - be careful not to strip them. I believe a 9mm socket will do the trick. It is a bit of a bear to get out - you have to wiggle it around a fair bit, but it will eventually come out.3) You have to now take off the alternator cover. This is a square-ish piece of plastic that is attached to the frame in two locations. There is a plastic cap that you pry off with a flathead screwdriver, it just pops out, and then you can pull the cover right out of the frame.4) Now you are looking at the crankshaft pulley right in front of you, and the alternator. The way to get the belt off (or put a new one on - mine was already off) is to slacken off the alternator. There is a nut at the bottom, and one at the top. Use a 15mm wrench to loosen or take off the bottom nut, and then use a 16mm wrench to loosen the top bolt. There are only 2 nuts altogether, so you really can't go wrong here. Don't take out the top bolt - just loosen it so that the alternator will move. With both of these loosened, you can now move the alternator a little bit towards the back of the car. not much, but just enough to get the new belt on.5) Fit your new belt over the tensioner at the top first - it is a real bear to get at - you can't really see it, you can only go by feel. Fit it over the tensioner, then around the alternator, and then get it started on the crankshaft pulley. You can use a 14mm wrench to turn the crankshaft, thereby pulling the belt onto the pulley. I tried for the longest time to get the belt on without turning this pulley, but it is all but impossible, even with the alternator moved over as far as it can go. It is so much easier just to turn the crankshaft pulley and pull on the belt, just as if you are putting a new chain on a bicycle sprocket.6) With the belt on and around the 3 pulleys (crankshaft, tensioner, and alternator) make sure that it is sitting in its groove properly. The tensioner doesn't have the same grooves as the other 2, but it you'll see where the belt fits once you run your finger over it.7) With a screwdriver or something long and flat-ish, move the alternator back to the same position on the bracket where it was before you moved it over. Again, you'll be able to see where this is because the nut has made a good indentation on the bracket. If you fit it exactly in the same spot, then tighten the nut up with the 15mm wrench, you'll see that the belt is really just right. Not too tight, not too loose. Then reach up with your 16mm wrench and tighten up the top bolt on the alternator. Make sure they are good and tight, as tight as you can manage. You don't want anything coming loose down the road!8) You should probably start the car up and let it run for a bit at this point. Just to make sure that everything is working fine. I let mine run for a couple of minutes, and then checked the tension in the belt again. Everything was fine.9) Snap the alternator cover back into place on the frame, and then put the inner fender cover back in. Put your wheel back on.10) Wash your filthy hands and give yourself a good pat on the back.By the way - mine gave out at about 135,000 kilometres.Hope this helps!Ross

To change the belt you need to pull the wheel liner (not the belly pan), pull the belt cover and then take the AC belt off then the poly v for the alternator/water pump - most of the effort is from the passenger side rear wheel wheel - about 1/2 hour effort for a shop - lying on your back in the snow - a bit longer.

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These are not instructions on how to change the belts. Do you have to take the back panel off? Do I have to jack up the back end? It does not look like a lot of space under there, and so is there anything I have to take off to get at the belts? Step by step would be what I am looking for.

Yep. I had a replacement on hand and ready, so I knew it was only a matter of time... Have you changed yours, Bil? It's messy, but not overly difficult.

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Please note the information contained on this page is general in nature and does not take into account your specific needs or circumstances. You should consider whether the information is appropriate to your needs, and where appropriate, seek professional advice.

Mine looked like new too - up until a couple of weekends ago - I have about 52,000 km on the car. On the bright side only 1/2 the belt failed so I was able to get it replaced with out loss of service.

As the timing belt/chain replacement is so labour intensive, it is not unusual for a workshop to suggest that other components, such as the water pump, be replaced while the mechanic has access to them. Given that a vehicle requiring a timing belt/chain replacement has probably racked up a fair few kilometres, it is likely that these ancillary parts are ‘tired’ too. Getting them changed at the same time as the timing belt/chain saves on the expense of having to go through the engine strip-down process again.

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The timing belt is made from pretty robust material but will need changing at some point – perhaps at the 100,000km mark or so. As mentioned, a timing chain may never require changing.

For the $50 bucks - I was glad to have TPM do it (plus they got the car washed) - if it was spring or summer I would probably tackle it myself. Asked the service manager there - they haven't been able to figure out the exact mean time between failure either - some cars less than 20k others go the distance - so they just inspect and hope for the best.

MTA Queensland’s Vehicle Maintenance course is designed for those who are interested in gaining valuable information and learning good practices for everyday vehicle use. The result: a safer journey with fewer breakdowns and repairs. If you have ever wanted to learn how to carry out preventative maintenance, then this course is for you.

Can a car have atiming belt and chain

Note that the torque is applied the other way so a normal non reversible torque wrench cannot be used. An indicating type wrench is recommended.

MISFIRE & ROUGH IDLING: The timing belt connects the crankshaft and camshaft via a series of pulleys and gears. The timing belt itself has ‘teeth’ that grip onto the gears. Over time, these ‘teeth’ will wear and begin to slip. This may cause one or more of the valves to open or close at the incorrect time, causing a misfire and rough idling.

Inside an engine cylinder sits the piston which is forced downwards by the pressure of the combustion of a fuel and air mixture and back upwards by the movement of the crankshaft. At the top of the cylinder are the valves that open to allow the fuel and air mixture into the cylinder. In most engines, the open valves and pistons occupy part of the same space of the cylinder at different times. This means that if the timing of their movement is wrong, the pistons can smash into the valves. These components are moving extremely fast and the pressure and heat inside the cylinder is immense. Should things go wrong and they do make contact, the resulting damage can include bent valves, damage to the camshaft, damage to the cylinder head and cylinder wall, and potentially the piston too. It is a scenario that your car, and your wallet, most definitely want to avoid.

The belts on the smart are similar to other vehicles. I have a 1997 Mercury Villager with 200K and it still has the original belts. If you do an inspection of your belts for cracking and such, then replace them as necessary. I've never hear of belts being on a replacement schedule (excluding timing belts). My smart has 50K now and the last time I was under the car I inspected the belts. They looked like new!!!I would suggest not spending any money on this one unless there is a reason. The old saying goes, "don't fix something that isn't broke".

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It is worth noting that engines in which a fully open valve extends into the space the piston also moves are known as an interference engines. Some models of cars have non-interference engines in which there is room for both to move without fear of contact.

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I completely agree with you !!!Thats why i bought an oil extractor, so i can avoid those 200 plus dollar oil changes from MB.I too would like a detailed set of instruction on belt change.My smart just rolled over 10000 km and i have been lucky so far with no issues.Other than the clutch adjustment i hope i never have to see the dealership again.

OIL LEAK: Timing belts are hidden from view by a timing belt cover that protects the engine from any debris kicked up when the car is moving. Over time, gaskets and seals in the engine may wear down and oil can leak into the timing belt area. This is not a good thing. The timing belt is designed to fit tightly in place and any fluid or lubricant that affects that grip is a cause for concern. Also, oil will impact the physical nature of the belt and make it wear and break down more quickly.

Belts are about $20 bucks each - replace both if you have air conditioning as well - the belts are pretty much at the lowest point of the engine so they get a lot of abuse from road debris.

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Hi,I started this discussion and still haven't done the job because my belts are still working at over 80,000 km and I haven't found the step by step instructions. However, I recently returned from a trip to Germany with their expensive version of an aftermarket auto manual for the smart car. Unfortunately the manual is in German and the instructions and pictures in the manual are inferior to the Haynes manuals available for other vehicles in Canada. From what I can translate, you start by jacking up the rear right of the car and removing the right-rear wheel. Next you also have to remove the "radhausschale". Translated this works out to be something like "wheel house shell". Presumably this exposes belts for inspection and even provides access for belt replacement. Unfortunately without pictures and further instructions in the manual that is all I could come up with. Hope that helps.Peter

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I'd also suggest you keep your old belts under passenger seat, or somewhere else. I had my belts fail at only 60k km. Installing new ones was a cinch, following the instructions at the above site. The belt tensioner is a bit odd: You install it with the excentric relaxed, and once the belt is in, you turn it to tighten the belts. Thats per the WIS, BTW.

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You tension the alternator/ water pump auxiliary drive belt using a non clicking Canadian Tire torque wrench or equivalent. Tension is checked using a Krikit tester part number 450 589 00 21 00 or by measuring belt vibration frequency as described in one of my posts on this forum. Vibration theory is covered as well in that thread. There are links to free spreadsheet and software downloads. Sorry, no free torque wrench.

You should either get your car serviced at FastEddy in Richmond, or at smart N. Vancovuer. Surrey has a dismal reputation!My belts are perfectly fine after 83,000+ km.

Thanks everyone,I have bought the belt in case I need it. I have put many km on very fast (now 32 K in about 7 months). In the last couple of weeks with the frosty winter mornings I have heard it squeaking briefly when I first start the car; I will keep an eye on it. If I wind up doing it myself, I will try to document the effort.I had seen the fq101 info before, but was disappointed in that they don't really tell you step by step how to do the job, like they do for the oil change and engine removal. Cheers,Peter.

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Replacing either of these components is a complicated and time-consuming job, even for the most experienced mechanic, so the work will come at a price. However, if there is a problem, replacement is essential and is a job that can’t be ignored. You can expect the cost to be somewhere between $800 and $2000, possibly more depending on the vehicle and whether it is a belt or chain being replaced. That’s a hefty sum, but it should be remembered that ignoring timing belt/chain issues will result in calamitous damage to the engine, and the cost of repairing that damage will be much more severe.

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The same symptoms occur when a timing belt loses its tension. A ‘stretched’ chain will loosen on its sprockets, affecting performance.

The camshaft rotates and opens and closes the valves that allow the air and fuel mixture to enter the cylinders and this process must happen in sync with the movement of the crankshaft – the component that converts the movement of the pistons inside the cylinders into the rotational motion that is transferred to the transmission and ultimately to the wheels that move the vehicle. Should the ‘timing’ of the movement of the camshaft and crankshaft be incorrect then colossal damage to the engine can occur.

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A timing chain does the exact same job as the timing belt but is a metallic roller chain. It is designed to have an extremely long lifespan and may never require replacement. However, as with a timing belt or any moving part, it can break or be damaged.

I have been searching for instructions on replacing the alternator and water pump belt and AC belt. Has anyone done this themselves? I'm curious about how to access the belts and looking for information on adjusting the belt tension. Also is it really necessary to change belts after only 27,000 km? They look fine, but for reasons I don't understand should be replaced very frequently on the cdi. After the Surrey dealership charged an additional $80 to replace my airfilter for the B service, something that takes less than a minute, I will avoid dealerships unless absolutely necessary.

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