I’m actually trying to kill the less-than-deore 475 hubs on my commuter, after 5 years, and something like 25,000km, they’re now a bit ‘rumbly’, but I’ve serviced worse, there’s years left in those hubs…

I appreciate that PeterPoddy is enaging in hyperbolex above, but assuming that you can service them fast with experience, is it just a case of knowing the cone tightness by feel so you can twiddle them up and that’s it done straight away? Always found it an exasperating process of trial and error.

PP – including BOTH bearing surfaces? I can change a pair of cartridge bearings in under 5 mins and that includes all adjusting and both bearing surfaces. there is no way on earth you can do that with C&C

I’ve tried to service them, but they’re beyond my limited mental capacity. I can’t do “tight but not too tight, do it by feel” things.

Last time I had cup and cone bearings, replacement cups were not available (though clearly a simple press-in part), so if you had let your’s get pitted and rusty, that was it. Have things changed?

Interchange fees are around 0.3-0.4% of the transaction amount in Europe and 2% in the US. Card schemes determine interchange fees and are non-negotiable.

But the xtr hubs on my winter comuter come touring bike have been spot on for years. Despite just getting used in the crappy weather then left in the shed for the rest of the year

Keeping all the required spares for a headset, BB, hubs and pedals was simply a matter of 3 or 4 sizes of ball bearings.

And bessides, if looked after you never need to replace them, just wash in petrol, re-pack with grease and adjust them again.

I’ve just spent the afternoon servicing a load of them; bottom brackets, headsets, hubs… After decades of neglect, all then need is stripping, cleaning, and reassembling; now they’re buttery smooth again!

I also sometimes renovate unwanted bikes that can still be rescued and find a good home for them. Some of them are only a step above a BSO and even now come with cup and cone hubs.

Cup and conebearings vs cartridge

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Did a c&c rear hub yesterday, as above its great when it all goes back together and you nip it up juuust right. It’s definitely more satisfying than just whacking some new cartridge bearings in.

Cup and cone bearingreplacement

is) to slide along the shaft. One exception is the gib-head key which is ... connecting rod must be assembled in the engine with the big end bearing on the.

I’m with PP on this one, especially a rear hub, doubly so if it’s been looked after and the drive side cone doesn’t need to come off the axle.

Cup and cone bearinghub

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A bearing provides a direction given as the primary compass direction (north or south), degree of angle, and an east or west designation.

Sure they’re serviceable without having to buy new bearing (may need new balls though), but it’s extra faff and likely a right mess. On top of that C&C requires fiddling to get the preload right and then the QR has to be done up right each ride to get the loading right so it’s not loose, but not too tight the wheel doesn’t spin.

My brother witnessed the end of the axle of his Hope Ti Glide being beaten with a hammer by a bike shop owner of many years to get the bearing out..

Only bearings I had that never needed adjusting and never wore out were unsealed cup and cone chorus hubs with a grease port.

Usually resulting in missing parts or the cones being the wrong way around or the axle much longer on the one side as its been but back in the wrong side then the cone adjusted to make it fit

Shimanocup and conebearings

To be fair he was an excellent mechanic for years before he changed careers. We’ve both been servicing cup and cone for 25 years so you do kinda get used to it!

Give me Mavics with bearings that last the lifetime of the wheel any day. Got a pair of cheapo Crossrides on my singlespeed, have never been touched, bike used to be used daily, in all weathers for dog walking and the bearings are still smooth as new. Faffing around with cone spanners? No ta.

I just serviced the cup and cones in the cheapy Diatech hubs of my long suffering Halo’s. Doing that regularly with a good bit of webbing grease has kept them in good shape.

I’ve tried to service them, but they’re beyond my limited mental capacity. I can’t do “tight but not too tight, do it by feel” things.

I’m surprised we haven’t had loads of cartridge lovers dissing us cone heads! I really don’t have a problem with c&c. They actually seem to last longer than cartridge bearings and are much easier to restore to health

For the price there’s not much that can touch an XT hub for longevity. I’ve got some which are 20 years old and still like new.

How has someone saying how they enjoyed servicing cup and cone hubs needed to become a critique of them and the people that service them….? Sheesh!

Cup and cone bearinggrease

Whenever I’ve tried they’ve either been too tight to spin freely, it at all or so loose they wobble. There only seems a millionth of a degree of a turn between the two.

I’ll do it ? my cartridge bearings last many years and are easier to replace than C&C. Done both lots, I know which I prefer.

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My fatbike has an XT rear hub. It’s been through the sea, deep sand, mud, peat and salty road slush. The hub is more than 5 years old and is still perfect. I’ll probably give it a once over before next winter just out of mechanical sympathy.

Trick is to get them as adjusted as close as possible and tighten the locknut/cone, then nip up the locknut with the other end in a vice to tighten the whole lot the last little bit.

Cup and cone bearingsizes

PP – including BOTH bearing surfaces? I can change a pair of cartridge bearings in under 5 mins and that includes all adjusting and both bearing surfaces. there is no way on earth you can do that with C&C

When I was working a a bike shop there was one particular wheel brand (Oval Concepts) whose cup and cone bearings would last a year and a half tops without servicing. After than they would be so pitted that the wheel was a write off. It suited me though. Most of the time the customer would just tell us to keep the old wheel so I would strip them for the rims and bladed spokes and build them up again with someone who had knackered their rim ?

Whenever I’ve tried they’ve either been too tight to spin freely, it at all or so loose they wobble. There only seems a millionth of a degree of a turn between the two.

Whenever I’ve tried they’ve either been too tight to spin freely, it at all or so loose they wobble. There only seems a millionth of a degree of a turn between the two. Same here. I can look after my bikes fine, in general, but have struggled more than once getting an XT hub done up right.

I was just thinking as for the 4th year in a row I’ve not touched any of my hubs how much I’d love to be messing around with some cone spanners

the latest “indexed” shimano offerings are a real pleasure to set up the older locking bolt version could sometimes be a bit fiddly to get spot on.

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I also clean my sealed hub and BB bearings out every now and again. Getting the grit and mud out and regreasing them does wonders for their lifespan.

Cup and conehub diagram

4x cartridge bearings (which if worn enough to have significant play could be a PITA to get out as the inners will knock out leaving the outer still in there, blind against the hub) and retrieving pawls and springs from wherever they end up under the fridge.

I wouldn’t entertain using them in the drive-chain disintegrating slop that I generally ride through. Sealed cartridge bearings all the way. It’s not like they’re difficult to replace when they’re nackered. Which is far less frequently

Cup and cone bearingreplacement parts

Once a year if you want them to last for the rest of time, every other year if you’re happy to accept gradual deterioration over a decade or so…

A quality cup and cone is designed to last and be serviceable. Cartridge bearing hubs are designed so that they are easy to fix when they fail.

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I’m a big fan – XT hubs have done me well and are cheap to buy and maintain. You can get a complete rebuild kit with a free pen holder for £27!!