> 3. If 1 and 2 above are not a problem, will I need a special tool> (bearing, gear puller) to extract the old bearings?

The brushes (electrical contacts for the rotor fieldwinding) will leave their holder when the rotor iswithdrawn. Small springs which keep tension on thebrushes can come out, but don't usually take offuncontrollably.

Mark the two end frames before disassembly, so thatthey go back together in the same relative positions. When separating the halves of the alternator body, keepthe stator winding with the NON-drive end frame. Itswire ends are connected to the diode bridge which ismounted in this end frame. Some are removable with nutsor screws, and some are soldered to the diode bridge. You don't want to rip loose the ends of the stator. Protect the wire coils of the stator while things areapart. What look like bare copper wires are in factinsulated with a coating. If you bang them around, theinsulation can be damaged, and you may end up with ashorted stator winding. For re-assembly, the brushes must be held down againsttheir springs in their sockets, to clear the rotor as itgoes back into place. This is often done by means of awire (straightened paper clip?) inserted throughopenings in the brush holder. The wire is withdrawnafter the rotor is in place and the case halves arescrewed together.

Changing alternator bearingschevy

This number increases rapidly with certain widespread technologies: 2 bearings are added for the air-conditioning compressor, for example. Regarding shafts, there are 6 units on an entire transmission system (2 main bearings on the longitudinal shaft, 4 bearing in the rear differential). For the engine, 2 bearings are regularly seen at the end of the cam shaft (distribution end).

> 4. Any gaskets involved? There might be a dust-cover gasket under a sheet metalcover outside the drive-end bearing. It's normallyreusable.

You'll need a means of removing the pulley from theexposed end of the shaft. On some later alternators thepulley is a shrink fit on the shaft, and is not designedto be removed. If this is the case, seek out a localelectrical rebuilder and have him do the job for you. I've had alternators rebuilt (bearings & brushesreplaced, diodes and stator insulation tested) for about$40-$50. If the pulley can be removed by means of a large nut onthe end of the shaft, you can do it yourself fairlyeasily. You'll need something to use as a press (anarbor press or a large vise will do fine). Sockets ofappropriate size can be used both to support the endframe of the alternator, and as arbors with which topress bearings in and out. DON'T use a hammer to try todrive the bearings. Press them slowly and accurately.> 4. Any gaskets involved? There might be a dust-cover gasket under a sheet metalcover outside the drive-end bearing. It's normallyreusable.

Alternatorbearing replacement cost

--Rex BurkheimerParts Plus Marketing Director WM Automotive Whse., Fort Worth TXGive a man a fire and he will be warm for a day, but sethim on fire and he will be warm for the rest of his life."Norman Weiler" wrote in messagenews:7225aa4b.0203...@posting.google.com...

Mark the two end frames before disassembly, so thatthey go back together in the same relative positions. When separating the halves of the alternator body, keepthe stator winding with the NON-drive end frame. Itswire ends are connected to the diode bridge which ismounted in this end frame. Some are removable with nutsor screws, and some are soldered to the diode bridge. You don't want to rip loose the ends of the stator. Protect the wire coils of the stator while things areapart. What look like bare copper wires are in factinsulated with a coating. If you bang them around, theinsulation can be damaged, and you may end up with ashorted stator winding. For re-assembly, the brushes must be held down againsttheir springs in their sockets, to clear the rotor as itgoes back into place. This is often done by means of awire (straightened paper clip?) inserted throughopenings in the brush holder. The wire is withdrawnafter the rotor is in place and the case halves arescrewed together.

Alternatorbearing symptoms

> 3. If 1 and 2 above are not a problem, will I need a special tool> (bearing, gear puller) to extract the old bearings?

Mark the two end frames before disassembly, so thatthey go back together in the same relative positions. When separating the halves of the alternator body, keepthe stator winding with the NON-drive end frame. Itswire ends are connected to the diode bridge which ismounted in this end frame. Some are removable with nutsor screws, and some are soldered to the diode bridge. You don't want to rip loose the ends of the stator. Protect the wire coils of the stator while things areapart. What look like bare copper wires are in factinsulated with a coating. If you bang them around, theinsulation can be damaged, and you may end up with ashorted stator winding. For re-assembly, the brushes must be held down againsttheir springs in their sockets, to clear the rotor as itgoes back into place. This is often done by means of awire (straightened paper clip?) inserted throughopenings in the brush holder. The wire is withdrawnafter the rotor is in place and the case halves arescrewed together.

My 1996 GMC Sierra 350, 5.7l, 5-speed 4x4 has the alternator bearingwhine at 56,000 miles. The dealer parts dept says they can supply arebuilt for $220 - no bearings available for the do-it-yourselfer.Searching back, I've seen other Deja posters say that they justreplaced the bearings for $15 to $20. They make it sound easy. I'dlike to try that, but I've never been inside an automotive alternatorbefore, so here are my concerns...1. Can I even get the bearings, and from whom?2. What's inside the alternator? Will small parts under tension shootall over the place when I open her up?3. If 1 and 2 above are not a problem, will I need a special tool(bearing, gear puller) to extract the old bearings?4. Any gaskets involved?5. What else will I need to know?6. Is there an on-line, step-by-step for this?7. My alt is the 100-amp.Thanks for your help.Norm in NJnwe...@nac.net

The brushes (electrical contacts for the rotor fieldwinding) will leave their holder when the rotor iswithdrawn. Small springs which keep tension on thebrushes can come out, but don't usually take offuncontrollably.

Changing alternator bearingscost

You'll need a means of removing the pulley from theexposed end of the shaft. On some later alternators thepulley is a shrink fit on the shaft, and is not designedto be removed. If this is the case, seek out a localelectrical rebuilder and have him do the job for you. I've had alternators rebuilt (bearings & brushesreplaced, diodes and stator insulation tested) for about$40-$50. If the pulley can be removed by means of a large nut onthe end of the shaft, you can do it yourself fairlyeasily. You'll need something to use as a press (anarbor press or a large vise will do fine). Sockets ofappropriate size can be used both to support the endframe of the alternator, and as arbors with which topress bearings in and out. DON'T use a hammer to try todrive the bearings. Press them slowly and accurately.> 4. Any gaskets involved? There might be a dust-cover gasket under a sheet metalcover outside the drive-end bearing. It's normallyreusable.

Alternatorbearing Puller

You'll need a means of removing the pulley from theexposed end of the shaft. On some later alternators thepulley is a shrink fit on the shaft, and is not designedto be removed. If this is the case, seek out a localelectrical rebuilder and have him do the job for you. I've had alternators rebuilt (bearings & brushesreplaced, diodes and stator insulation tested) for about$40-$50. If the pulley can be removed by means of a large nut onthe end of the shaft, you can do it yourself fairlyeasily. You'll need something to use as a press (anarbor press or a large vise will do fine). Sockets ofappropriate size can be used both to support the endframe of the alternator, and as arbors with which topress bearings in and out. DON'T use a hammer to try todrive the bearings. Press them slowly and accurately.> 4. Any gaskets involved? There might be a dust-cover gasket under a sheet metalcover outside the drive-end bearing. It's normallyreusable.

You'll need a means of removing the pulley from theexposed end of the shaft. On some later alternators thepulley is a shrink fit on the shaft, and is not designedto be removed. If this is the case, seek out a localelectrical rebuilder and have him do the job for you. I've had alternators rebuilt (bearings & brushesreplaced, diodes and stator insulation tested) for about$40-$50. If the pulley can be removed by means of a large nut onthe end of the shaft, you can do it yourself fairlyeasily. You'll need something to use as a press (anarbor press or a large vise will do fine). Sockets ofappropriate size can be used both to support the endframe of the alternator, and as arbors with which topress bearings in and out. DON'T use a hammer to try todrive the bearings. Press them slowly and accurately.> 4. Any gaskets involved? There might be a dust-cover gasket under a sheet metalcover outside the drive-end bearing. It's normallyreusable.

Mark the two end frames before disassembly, so thatthey go back together in the same relative positions. When separating the halves of the alternator body, keepthe stator winding with the NON-drive end frame. Itswire ends are connected to the diode bridge which ismounted in this end frame. Some are removable with nutsor screws, and some are soldered to the diode bridge. You don't want to rip loose the ends of the stator. Protect the wire coils of the stator while things areapart. What look like bare copper wires are in factinsulated with a coating. If you bang them around, theinsulation can be damaged, and you may end up with ashorted stator winding. For re-assembly, the brushes must be held down againsttheir springs in their sockets, to clear the rotor as itgoes back into place. This is often done by means of awire (straightened paper clip?) inserted throughopenings in the brush holder. The wire is withdrawnafter the rotor is in place and the case halves arescrewed together.

How to fixalternatorbearing noise

Mark the two end frames before disassembly, so thatthey go back together in the same relative positions. When separating the halves of the alternator body, keepthe stator winding with the NON-drive end frame. Itswire ends are connected to the diode bridge which ismounted in this end frame. Some are removable with nutsor screws, and some are soldered to the diode bridge. You don't want to rip loose the ends of the stator. Protect the wire coils of the stator while things areapart. What look like bare copper wires are in factinsulated with a coating. If you bang them around, theinsulation can be damaged, and you may end up with ashorted stator winding. For re-assembly, the brushes must be held down againsttheir springs in their sockets, to clear the rotor as itgoes back into place. This is often done by means of awire (straightened paper clip?) inserted throughopenings in the brush holder. The wire is withdrawnafter the rotor is in place and the case halves arescrewed together.

> 3. If 1 and 2 above are not a problem, will I need a special tool> (bearing, gear puller) to extract the old bearings?

You'll need a means of removing the pulley from theexposed end of the shaft. On some later alternators thepulley is a shrink fit on the shaft, and is not designedto be removed. If this is the case, seek out a localelectrical rebuilder and have him do the job for you. I've had alternators rebuilt (bearings & brushesreplaced, diodes and stator insulation tested) for about$40-$50. If the pulley can be removed by means of a large nut onthe end of the shaft, you can do it yourself fairlyeasily. You'll need something to use as a press (anarbor press or a large vise will do fine). Sockets ofappropriate size can be used both to support the endframe of the alternator, and as arbors with which topress bearings in and out. DON'T use a hammer to try todrive the bearings. Press them slowly and accurately.> 4. Any gaskets involved? There might be a dust-cover gasket under a sheet metalcover outside the drive-end bearing. It's normallyreusable.

Changing alternator bearingschevy silverado

Mark the two end frames before disassembly, so thatthey go back together in the same relative positions. When separating the halves of the alternator body, keepthe stator winding with the NON-drive end frame. Itswire ends are connected to the diode bridge which ismounted in this end frame. Some are removable with nutsor screws, and some are soldered to the diode bridge. You don't want to rip loose the ends of the stator. Protect the wire coils of the stator while things areapart. What look like bare copper wires are in factinsulated with a coating. If you bang them around, theinsulation can be damaged, and you may end up with ashorted stator winding. For re-assembly, the brushes must be held down againsttheir springs in their sockets, to clear the rotor as itgoes back into place. This is often done by means of awire (straightened paper clip?) inserted throughopenings in the brush holder. The wire is withdrawnafter the rotor is in place and the case halves arescrewed together.

The sophistication of certain functions tends to drive up the number of bearings. Recent automatic dual-clutch transmissions (DCT) require an additional 3 bearings: 2 on the gearbox’s second primary shaft, and 1 for the double clutch. Certain high-end engines feature one bearing per valve, i.e. 4 per cylinder and thus 48 on a 12-cylinder engine!

The list is not exhaustive: bearings are also sometimes found in surprising locations, such as in Citroën’s fixed-centre steering wheel.

The brushes (electrical contacts for the rotor fieldwinding) will leave their holder when the rotor iswithdrawn. Small springs which keep tension on thebrushes can come out, but don't usually take offuncontrollably.

Mark the two end frames before disassembly, so thatthey go back together in the same relative positions. When separating the halves of the alternator body, keepthe stator winding with the NON-drive end frame. Itswire ends are connected to the diode bridge which ismounted in this end frame. Some are removable with nutsor screws, and some are soldered to the diode bridge. You don't want to rip loose the ends of the stator. Protect the wire coils of the stator while things areapart. What look like bare copper wires are in factinsulated with a coating. If you bang them around, theinsulation can be damaged, and you may end up with ashorted stator winding. For re-assembly, the brushes must be held down againsttheir springs in their sockets, to clear the rotor as itgoes back into place. This is often done by means of awire (straightened paper clip?) inserted throughopenings in the brush holder. The wire is withdrawnafter the rotor is in place and the case halves arescrewed together.

> 3. If 1 and 2 above are not a problem, will I need a special tool> (bearing, gear puller) to extract the old bearings?

Mark the two end frames before disassembly, so thatthey go back together in the same relative positions. When separating the halves of the alternator body, keepthe stator winding with the NON-drive end frame. Itswire ends are connected to the diode bridge which ismounted in this end frame. Some are removable with nutsor screws, and some are soldered to the diode bridge. You don't want to rip loose the ends of the stator. Protect the wire coils of the stator while things areapart. What look like bare copper wires are in factinsulated with a coating. If you bang them around, theinsulation can be damaged, and you may end up with ashorted stator winding. For re-assembly, the brushes must be held down againsttheir springs in their sockets, to clear the rotor as itgoes back into place. This is often done by means of awire (straightened paper clip?) inserted throughopenings in the brush holder. The wire is withdrawnafter the rotor is in place and the case halves arescrewed together.

Changing alternator bearingstoyota

This obviously depends on the model! We’ve nevertheless undertaken to give a rough count of the minimum number of bearings in a car. We counted 36.

1. Can I even get the bearings, and from whom?2. What's inside the alternator? Will small parts under tension shootall over the place when I open her up?3. If 1 and 2 above are not a problem, will I need a special tool(bearing, gear puller) to extract the old bearings?4. Any gaskets involved?5. What else will I need to know?6. Is there an on-line, step-by-step for this?7. My alt is the 100-amp.Thanks for your help.Norm in NJnwe...@nac.net

Mark the two end frames before disassembly, so thatthey go back together in the same relative positions. When separating the halves of the alternator body, keepthe stator winding with the NON-drive end frame. Itswire ends are connected to the diode bridge which ismounted in this end frame. Some are removable with nutsor screws, and some are soldered to the diode bridge. You don't want to rip loose the ends of the stator. Protect the wire coils of the stator while things areapart. What look like bare copper wires are in factinsulated with a coating. If you bang them around, theinsulation can be damaged, and you may end up with ashorted stator winding. For re-assembly, the brushes must be held down againsttheir springs in their sockets, to clear the rotor as itgoes back into place. This is often done by means of awire (straightened paper clip?) inserted throughopenings in the brush holder. The wire is withdrawnafter the rotor is in place and the case halves arescrewed together.