Frontdifferential noiseon acceleration

Day 2 update: I ended up removing the entire rear suspension arm (which was surprisingly straightforward and easy to do), and popped the CV out of the diff. I have the whole thing precariously positioned in my 12 ton Harbor Freight press, sitting in my driveway, loaded. I tried using a FWD hub puller from autozone to push the axle out, tried the air hammer, tried my ball-pein hammer with a drift - then all of the above with and without liberal coats of PB Blaster and / or heat from my propane torch. I peen'ed over the head of the CV shaft so bad that I couldn't get the nut back on. While I hate destroying stuff, this battle might be lost. Is it dumb to drill out the cv shaft with the hope it will relieve pressure inside the hub? Another thought is to take it to a shop with a larger press. Eventually it will let go - I think!

Something about laying under it on jack stands while driving is a little bit frightening to me. The idea had crossed my mind though.

Differential bearing noise

Belt Hog Benefits This little 1.6-pound tool is a heavyweight when it comes to making things simple. You've heard of living high on the hog? Welcome to working high on the Hog. Benefits of good alignment: Reduces downtime Extends belt and pulley life Reduces vibration and belt noise Minimizes unscheduled stops Advantages of the Belt Hog: Accurate, measures from the pulley grooves where the belts operate Easy to use, no training required Fast, one person operation No need to remove the belts Measures vertical angle, horizontal angle and offset simultaneously Measures distances from 6" to 20 feet Measures pulley diameters 3" and larger

Pop ball joint and tie rod, pull out on knuckle with weak hand while hammering on it with the air chisel fitted with a dull pointed driver. That's what the dimple in the end is for!

Rear differential noiseon acceleration

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Wheel bearing noisewhen accelerating

I then use a big bearing puller to push the axle out if its not cooperating. But that usually only happens with northern transplant subies.

Car off, raise both rear tires by jacking up the rear diff. Front wheels chaulked. Car in neutral and ebrake off. Spin rear wheel on one side and listen. Go to other side and spin and listen.

Axle nut is off; caliper, bracket and rotor - off. ABS sensor is removed. I don't know what long bolt you're talking about, but the four 14mm holding the bearing assembly are also out. I got the passenger side apart using a puller to push the axle through - but the driver side is being rather stubborn.

Kenny, this is the rear... removing everything appears to be a huge job, so I'm hoping to find a way to get the CV out, still attached to the bearing assembly.

Car in question is a 2001 Subaru Legacy sedan with 140k miles. There's a loud woomp woomp woomp noise audible inside the car, and is definitely something in the rear. Front wheel bearings were done within the year. How can I tell if its the bearings in the diff or the axles?

Rear differential noise vs wheel bearing noisechevy

Worn wheel bearings usually cause play in the wheel. If the noise changes while on the brakes in neutral, that's a good sign that it's not something in the diff.

Agreed. Also, diff noises usually change depending on the load on the diff, so if you're cruising on the highway in 5th and go from full throttle to no throttle, a diff will sound a lot different but a wheel bearing noise won't change much at all.

When you swap in a new wheel bearing (assuming that's the noise you're hearing), make sure to check the grease in the new unit and ideally, repack it with known good grease. That should extend its life a bit more.

Frontrear differential noise vs wheel bearing noise

Anyways on the Legacy I really dont have any secrets or anything. After unbolting the 4 bolts on the hub I just give a liberal dousing with ATF/acetone (or your poison of choice) and a slidehammer with adapter.

How to quietrear differential noise

So for various reasons, I'm finally tackling this job. The passenger side is almost fully apart, but the driver's side is being stubborn. The axle shaft is stuck in the hub. I'm debating if I should just pull the CV axle too, and load the whole mama in my press to get it apart. My google abilities are lacking; there are tons of instructions for front CV axles but very little for the rears. Haynes says I need to remove the rear diff to get the axles out. Huh, really??

Ive done really rusty hubs with an air chisel to separate it from the knuckle, this will likely screw up the mating surface and you'll need to draw file it back flat though.

Yeah, most likely the bearings. Wheel bearing noise will typically change during a 'lane change' type maneuver, diff noise won't.

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I was thinking Impreza even though you stated Legacy. With the Impreza you have to remove a long bolt for the lower arms so you can pull the hub off the axle.

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Rear differential noise vs wheel bearing noisesymptoms

Belt Hog Specifications Housing Material: Precision molded PA Dimensions: 2.68 x 3.62 x 2.65 in (h x w x d) Weight: approximately 1.66 lbs Battery type: (2) AA batteries Operating time: 20 hours continuous operation Measuring distance: 6" to 20 feet Measuring accuracy: Better than 0.5mm or 0.2 degrees Pulley diameter range: 3" and larger Pulley belt groove with: A, B, C, D, and E sizes (0.2" - 1.6") Classification: Class 2 LASER Output power: <1mW LASER wavelength: 630 - 675 nm Belt Hog Alignment Procedure The Belt Hog uses two LASER transmitter for projecting of LASER lines on the opposite LASER unit. By adjusting the pulleys so that the laserline coincides with the reference line on the opposite LASER unit, the pulleys are aligned. Mounting of the Belt Hog units Each unit is mounted on the pulley as shown in the diagram below. Note: The magnets, which holds the unit to the pulley, are very strong. Do not pinch your fingers! Position both units with the spring action probes resting in the same groove on both pulleys and the units are facing each other as shown below. When the units are mounted, turn on the LASERS. Each LASER generates a line on the opposite unit. When correctly aligned the lines coincide with the reference marks on the labels on both units. If the belt transmission is mis-aligned, start by correcting the angular error. It is important that the pulleys are mounted correctly on the shafts and that the shafts are straight before starting the alignment process. Wobbling or warped pulleys affects the alignment quality severely. Safety The Belt Hog uses LASER diodes with a power output of less than 1.0 mW. The LASER classification is Class 2, which is considered safe for its intended use with only minor precautions required. These are: Never stare directly into the LASER light source. Never direct the LASER into anyone else's eyes. Your system complies with the requirements in: SS-EN-60825-1-1994 British Standards BS 4803 Parts 1 to 3 Deutche Industrie Norm DIN JEC 76 (CO) 6 USA FDA Standard 21 CFR, Ch 1, Part 1040.10 and 1040.11 Packaged Dimensions: 16"L x 10"W x 8"H

Dial indicator and a magnet base, specs should be in the manual. It highly doubt it would get loud without being worn out of spec.