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Rearwheel bearingreplacementcost

Did you get an itemized estimate? If not, ask for one. Do that when you get a second opinion too. That way you can easily compare the two. Don’t tell the second shop what the other one estimated.

I took my knuckle to a shop and they pressed out my bearing and he said hub was scored but he had 1 used. For $20. I tried to pay with my card and tech said hub was his and cash only. Had to run to atm for $20 cash. Bet tech had a few hubs in his toolbox. From other jobs?

Scope of work as per the first shop was to “replace the left/front wheel bearing and press the new one”, that’s all they mentioned.

While you are driving, gently touch the brakes. If you hear grinding noises when driving and braking, try braking a little harder. If the sound gets worse, then you may have worn out brake pads.

I thought sometimes they just replace the whole hub part is a little more but less labor. That price sounds high you need to get a second quote.

Stop the vehicle and take a look at your brake pads. If you are not sure where to look, consult your owner's manual. If the pads are a quarter of an inch thick or less, then they probably need to be replaced.

Frontwheel bearingreplacementcost

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The following video will give you an idea of the sound that a bad wheel bearing makes. If you don't want to watch the whole video, jump to the 54-second (0:54) mark to hear the sound.

Frontwheel bearingreplacementcostNear me

Cool. With that said, you really should consider getting the other one replaced at the same time…see if the shop will give you a break on the labor.

You might notice a grinding noise when driving at low speeds. The most common causes are problems with your continual velocity joints, brake pads, wheel bearings or alternator.

Same with a guy I know in my area who passed away back in 2011. He BSed, cobbled together, hacked up, and in general screwed everyone over yet everyone within 25 miles of him praised his name to the mechanical heavens. Go figure…

Wheel Bearing costAutoZone

If you hear a grinding noise when driving straight, this raises other questions seeing as it’s likely not a bearing or a joint. It could be anything from pebbles stuck in the brakes to a failing alternator.

After I drilled out the defective sensor , I took a reamer to the hole. The shop that removed the other sensor (left front) was nice enough to let me go home without a sensor (I got one from an online Toyota dealer at a big discount). And my labor is free.

Jiffy Lubewheel bearingreplacementcost

Water pump: Your water pump is one of the parts of your vehicle's cooling system. Its job is to help keep your car from overheating. It does this by circulating coolant from your radiator to your engine block.

you can get the whole hub and bearing for like $150 , so your mechanic is telling you it is going to take him 5 hours to do the job on a bearing ?? I doubt it , i would run from that guy .

Power steering pump: The job of your power steering pump is to pressurize the hydraulic fluid in your power steering system. This helps you easily turn your steering wheel.

As always when in doubt you get a second opinion . It could be that this shop does not have the right equipment for the job or there is a lot of labor involved .

You didn’t mention the year of your Elantra, but when I plugged in a 2015 into repairpal.com for an estimate, my local zip code brought up an estimate for $173-266 to change a single wheel bearing…you definitely need to get a 2nd and 3rd quote

Here is the sound that a bad power steering pump will make. If you don't want to watch the entire video, skip ahead to the one-minute (1:00) mark to hear the sound of a bad power steering pump.

Alternator: Your alternator converts the mechanical energy produced by your engine into electricity which will charge your vehicle's battery and other accessories that use electricity such as your lights and radio.

Wheel bearings are vitally important to your safety and should not be ignored. Make sure you take your vehicle to a reliable mechanic as soon as possible to get it repaired.

I paid $250 parts and labor for the front wheel bearing of my previous Toyota Corolla. It had to be pressed in also. They put in a Timken bearing and it didn’t take much time…around 45 minutes and I was out of there.Shop around because your estimate seems on the high side.

Dropped my car off at a mechanic to check into an issue I’ve been having (groaning in the front/left wheel). Turns out it is a wheel bearing that needs to be replaced and the mechanic quoted me $750 for the job, saying “the bearing needs to be pressed and it’s a fair amount of labor”.

Once you start your vehicle, listen to see if the grinding sound starts right away or if it begins any time while the engine is running.

Once you figure out what is causing the problem, you can be better informed and feel more confident when you take it to an automotive specialist for repair.

According to ItStillRuns.com, a great trick for listening to each separate part is to take a piece of a rubber hose and place one end on the alternator and hold the other end up to your ear. The hose will help you determine if the problem is with the alternator.

Cost to replace wheel bearingcalculator

Start driving your vehicle and make a right-hand turn and then make a left-hand turn. If the grinding noise gets worse when you turn in one direction and then gets better when you turn in the opposite direction, then the problem is most likely a wheel bearing.

This doesn’t include the cost of replacing one perfectly good ABS sensor that had to be destroyed in the process. (tech told me that the sensor would be in the way of the press, and they couldn’t remove it without destroying it. ). I believed him, as I replaced the ABS sensor on the other side a year earlier. It was defective. I too had to destroy the old one to remove it, as Toyota machined the hole too small. Talk about a tight fit! There was TSB about this, I believe.

We have already addressed some of these issues above, but let’s discuss the possibility of a continual velocity (CV) joint issue if you hear a grinding noise when driving at low speeds, especially if it’s coming from the front of your car.

Note: Don’t settle for the cheapest brake pads you can find. You run the risk of failure and collision. You will save money in the long run by choosing a reputable brand for your brake pads. Some of the best brake pad brands include Akebono, Stoptech, Wagner, EBC, Powerstop, and AC Delco.

Wheel bearingreplacementcostNear Me

You need to figure out where in the engine the grinding noise is coming from. If you are not familiar with the different parts of your engine, then look at your owner's manual or look online for a diagram of the parts of your engine.

Elantra has same bearing setup as Honda’s. A shop can lowball the cost and then have to replace more parts or remove knuckle to press out bearing. The bearing is pressed into the hub. So, assume the hub will be damaged or scored.image600×600 22.3 KB

Wheel bearingreplacement near me

Thanks all, appreciate the help. I did call a second and third shop and was quoted $350 by one and $380 from the other. Both shops gave me their estimate, and when they then asked what I was quoted when it was diagnosed they said the shop I went to was notorious for extremely high prices and that $750 was way too high… I’m surprised since the first shop had great reviews.

The CV joint is what allows the front wheels to get power and turn properly, so if you hear the grinding noise when driving at low speeds - and especially when making turns - your CV joint may be worn out.

Is your car making a grinding noise? Are you uncertain about what is causing it? It is important to determine the cause of the grinding noise. Here are some simple steps that even someone with little or no automotive experience can follow in order to diagnose the problem.

If you hear a grinding noise while your car is changing gears, then the clutch could be getting worn out or it may need to be adjusted.

You should also verify how many wheel bearings they’re replacing. If it were me, I would go ahead and replace the bearing on the other side of the vehicle as well…chances are, it’s not far behind in terms of failure.

Yeah, tight but not pressed in I had to pry mine out a fraction at a time, going around to keep it from getting jammed. Both GM and an 03 Toyota Camry. The GM had a penta-socket head fastener on one side and a pressed in “rivet” on the other. Still struggling to understand/justify the need for such hardware…

They need to be tight due to the super tight tolerance on positioning for proper operation. I did some work recently and had to R&R an ABS sensor. Long story short, a thousandth made a huge difference in signal level. Too close and it rubs, too far and weak signal. Rust forming on the spacer was enough to cause weak signal…removing them required diligent care not to damage them…

You did the right thing by getting other quotes and as an aside, never give a lot of credence to online reviews. Some may be fake and in some cases people may have been robbed blind and simply do not realize it. Their car is fixed for double what anyone else charges so they’re happy with it all.

Not necessarily. I had this setup on my old Mazda Protege. You press the hub out of the bearing, and the inner race of the bearing is stuck in the hub. You then carefully score the outside of the inner race, and strike it once or twice with a chisel…the inner race splits in too, and you’re left with the hub, which you can press into the new bearing.