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Home Forums Post Viet-Nam to Desert Storm Vehicles CUCV JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Front wheel bearing stuck..... Thread starter Hal O'Peridol Start date Dec 28, 2009 1 2 Next 1 of 2 Go to page Go Next Last ••• More options Who Replied? Dec 28, 2009 #1 H Hal O'Peridol Member 121 4 18 Location Blaine, WA Been trying to replace the front wheel bearings on my 1009, got everything out OK, but the outer bearing is stuck and the rotor is not coming off. Probably stuck because of the heat from the bearing going bad. I looked at a lot of bearing/hub pullers and none seem to be the right one for the job. Anyone got any ideas? Dec 28, 2009 #2 jimm1009 Well-known member 1,165 71 48 Location Louisville, KY There is a production change in the style of nut used. '85 and newer is slightly different. The stack up is the locking hub, clip for inner portion of locking hub, clip ring for outer diamter of lucking hub, outside bearing retaining nut, then the locking washer (flat) that is keyed, and then the inner nut. These nuts are a four-key style nut. The socket has four teeth that stick downward into the nut in order to engage them. (84 & down is different, 6 straight teeth if I remember correctly). I've never heard of a hub being stuck. It may sound really silly, but you DO have your brake caliper removed don't you??? Sorry, got to ask as I have ssen that done by others who shall remain unnamed. Post your findings and we may be able to help. jimm1009 Dec 28, 2009 #3 S stump New member 66 2 0 Location Henderson nc I had one that melted to the hub. I removed the retaining nuts and cut the bearing shell and removed the hub. I then cut the bearing off the spindel with a cut off wheel. Takes time but i didnt have to get a new spindel. PS cut almost through the bearing colar and then split it with a chisel. Dec 28, 2009 #4 jimm1009 Well-known member 1,165 71 48 Location Louisville, KY I did not think about that one stump. I had to replace a hub due to a spun bearing and one other time I purchased a new spindle. Both came from O'riellys Auto partw with a life time waranty in case you do need parts. jimm1009 Dec 28, 2009 #5 H Hal O'Peridol Member 121 4 18 Location Blaine, WA stump said: I had one that melted to the hub. I removed the retaining nuts and cut the bearing shell and removed the hub. I then cut the bearing off the spindel with a cut off wheel. Takes time but i didnt have to get a new spindel. PS cut almost through the bearing colar and then split it with a chisel. Click to expand... How were you able to cut the bearing shell? It's a long way down in there without much room.... What kind of tool did you use? p.s. I DO have the caliper off Reactions: jimm1009 Dec 30, 2009 #6 kennyw Member 263 4 18 Location Stones Throw from Reiter, WA Hal O'Peridol said: What kind of tool did you use? Click to expand... Just takes a long chisel. Just be careful on what you tear up in the process. Dec 30, 2009 #7 4bogginchevys New member 623 1 0 Location rathdrum idaho if the retaining nuts are off you can turn the steering wheel to free up some room and use a dead blow hammer against the rotor where the caliper would be while you turn the rotor slowly, i've had this happen when I got mud/dirt in there 4 wheelin'. good luck BTW, use some pb blaster on the bearing/race a little while before you whack it! Dec 30, 2009 #8 H Hal O'Peridol Member 121 4 18 Location Blaine, WA Well, I've whacked on the rotor with a rubber and brass mallet, turning rotor as I go, did not budge. Sprayed with Kroil, waited a day, still did not budge. Got a hub puller, put it on (slide hammer type) gave it many a mighty WHACK until my arm resembles Popeye's. Still no joy Considering making my own hub puller (screw type) and giving it a go tomorrow evening. only other thing I can think of is heat, cutting that long "tunnel" thing on the caliper off so I have better access to the bad bearing. And to top it off, it's supposed to start raining tomorrow. I actually thought about getting a slotted steel wheel, bolting it back on the rotor, running a chain through the slots and then hooking it to my other truck. Then give it a mighty dudge ram yank to pull it off. Anyone got any better ideas? Dec 30, 2009 #9 R rabrownmk New member 7 0 0 Location San Antonio, TX Hal O'Peridol said: I actually thought about getting a slotted steel wheel, bolting it back on the rotor, running a chain through the slots and then hooking it to my other truck. Then give it a mighty dudge ram yank to pull it off. Anyone got any better ideas? Click to expand... This is actually a pretty good idea, except for yanking it with a truck...I foresee it pulling the truck off the lift? We had to do this one time to get the hub out of my buddies Samurai. Put the wheel on backwards, then crawled underneath and kicked it hard. You could also try heating it with a torch, has worked wonders for me in the past. Dec 30, 2009 #10 4bogginchevys New member 623 1 0 Location rathdrum idaho great idea with the wheel/chain combo! just use 1 more chain to a nearby tree or truck (opposite) so that you dont knock yours off the jack. Dec 30, 2009 #11 kennyw Member 263 4 18 Location Stones Throw from Reiter, WA I have had this same problem before and just used a chisel to split the bearing race in half. It will come off easily after that. I was able to do it without damaging the bearing hub or spindle with a little patience. When you destroy the wheel bearing, the inner race will spin and weld itself to the spindle. There are no easy fixes for this. Dec 30, 2009 #12 skark_burmer Member 143 2 18 Location San Jose, Ca Just bolt the tire back on and take a spin around the block. I would suggest putting the caliper back on though. Dont worry, you'll know when its free. If that dosent work, find some curbs to hop. But this is only for rare cases. In either situation a liberal soaking of beer makes the process easier and more entertaining for friends. Yes, im serious. Yes, i have done it. Yes, i am slightly stupid. Dec 31, 2009 #13 4bogginchevys New member 623 1 0 Location rathdrum idaho skark_burmer said: just bolt the tire back on and take a spin around the block. I would suggest putting the caliper back on though. Dont worry, you'll know when its free. If that dosent work, find some curbs to hop. But this is only for rare cases. In either situation a liberal soaking of beer makes the process easier and more entertaining for friends. Yes, im serious. Yes, i have done it. Yes, i am slightly stupid. Click to expand... lololol Dec 31, 2009 #14 H Hal O'Peridol Member 121 4 18 Location Blaine, WA skark_burmer said: Just bolt the tire back on and take a spin around the block. I would suggest putting the caliper back on though. Dont worry, you'll know when its free. If that dosent work, find some curbs to hop. But this is only for rare cases. In either situation a liberal soaking of beer makes the process easier and more entertaining for friends. Yes, im serious. Yes, i have done it. Yes, i am slightly stupid. Click to expand... After tonight I'm **** close to doing that myself. First took a steel chisel to the bearing race. After several fruitless whacks with a hammer, I ended up with some slight marks on the race and a chisel that looked like crap. I didn't actually hook a chain up to a steel wheel, I bolted a short length of chain to two lug studs, parked my other truck next to the M1009, and took a 3 ton come-a-long, attached one hook to the chain and the other to the receiver hitch on my other truck. Proceeded to tightened up said come-a-long. Tighter and tighter. Then tightened it a little more. Then noticed my other truck was actually skidding CLOSER to the CUCV! In the morning I am going to attempt to grind out a spot on the bearing races and remove the leftover bearings. If that dont work, I got a nice bi-metal blade for my reciprocating saw. This rotor/hub WILL COME OFF!!!!!!! Dec 31, 2009 #15 skark_burmer Member 143 2 18 Location San Jose, Ca Just install the bearing nuts but leave them very very loose, like 1/2" from contacting the bearing. Put your caliper back on and go for a spin. Its a heck of a lot easier than the alternatives and you wont ruin your spindle or threads. Good luck! Oh, you made sure you got both nuts and the toothed washer out, correct? Dec 31, 2009 #16 C Crackerjax New member 176 0 0 Location Fuquay, North Carolina I had that happen once on my XJ with the same axles your running.... drilled out the Bearing race took out each bearing one by one with tweezers and then was able to slide it off.... mine was the inner bearing it sucked alot and I also had to get a new spindle and hub because they were both toast.... Jan 2, 2010 #17 H Hal O'Peridol Member 121 4 18 Location Blaine, WA Well, I did finally get it off today! YaY!! (We DO need the dancing banana smilie on this forum!) Hub id toast, spindle is ok, inner race protected it. Priced out hubs today....very interesting.... O'Reilly's........68 dollars Local parts store..114 dollars Carquest........128 dollars Local NAPA......116 dollars NAPA in next town over.....169 dollars!! and they were the only place to have it in stock. I ain't paying 169 bux! I'll hit a couple junk yards up in Canada tomorrow and monday.. Just a short time til back "on the road again"! Jan 4, 2010 #18 kennyw Member 263 4 18 Location Stones Throw from Reiter, WA Hal O'Peridol said: Local NAPA......116 dollars NAPA in next town over.....169 dollars!! and they were the only place to have it in stock. Click to expand... Did you ask them if they will price match the local Napa? Jan 5, 2010 #19 Warthog Moderator Super Moderator Steel Soldiers Supporter 13,774 234 63 Location OKC, OK Hal O'Peridol said: Well, I did finally get it off today! YaY!! Click to expand... Do tell as to what route you took to remove the hub.................... Jan 6, 2010 #20 H Hal O'Peridol Member 121 4 18 Location Blaine, WA Sawzall. tried everything listed here, even the "bolt it back on and drive around a little" suggestion. No luck with any. I took a bimetal sawzall blade and cut off about the first 3 inches of the hub, right where the bearing races start. Tried to cut through the bearing race, but only dulled 3 blades, those races are some hard metal! Once I got that done, I was able to start prying out bearings, one at a time. Since some were already gone, I only had to force about three out with a pointed prybar until I was able to just start flicking them out. Got them out and the hub pulled right off. The inner race of the outer bearing was easy to beat off after heating it up. I guess heat did not work earlier as I only had access to a propane torch, and there was just too much mass to heat it high enough. Found a guy on craigslist parting out a civvie K5 and got the hub assy from him, cheaper than retail. Will be putting it on today, as we are currently rain free, a rarity here in western WA state! I plan on pulling and replacing the bearings on the passenger side too while I'm dirty. 1 2 Next 1 of 2 Go to page Go Next Last You must log in or register to reply here. 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