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2024-10-23 14:09:36

My local dealers in my area charge $400 to the timing belt (and nothing else). The labor has to be around 3 hours with the rates the shop charge around here. From what I have read the tensioner should at least be replaced at the same time.

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Yes you could do it, but it will cost you a few hundred for the parts that should be replaced. It's not really that hard, just time consuming. There are videos on youtube with how to do the install of the sohc motor.

I will do my timing myself. I am not sure if I am going to replace the water pump or oil seals. I will have to do some research on what seem to fail on Subaru forums as I get closer (I am at 65k miles). On one of my cars, I skipped the water pump, because I read they will lasted through the 2nd timing belt. One of my timing belt jobs, I skipped the cam and crank seals, because I didn't see any evidence of leaking. The other engine was prone to oil leaks and I had done the rear cam seals already, so it was a no brainer. Sorry I don't have nay direct experience with a Subaru EJ25 motor.

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5. Get the subaru service manual for your car. if you don't know how to get it without paying for it, then pay whatever the week-long pass is from subaru. there is no better set of instructions to follow, no matter what anyone says.

I mean, a few months back I repaired the PCM, ignition coils, and plugs on my wife's Ford Escape after a bad coil blew the computer. Cost me - total - ~$750 worth of parts and an hour of time, vs ~$3,000 that the mechanic quoted me. I am all about that kind of economics.

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Saturdays are reserved for walk-in service but come in early in the day to ensure you bike gets done by the end of the day.

in the end, it should cost you in the neighborhood of $200-$250 for the parts, maybe a bit more with inflation and all. good luck.

My 2011 2.5i is quickly approaching the 105k mark where Subaru recommends replacing the timing belt, and I'd rather not spend $500 on something if I can just as easily do it myself.

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11. oil pump requires sealant. you could buy the stuff subaru uses (and I have, many times, it works fine, though is messy), but lately i've been using permatex anaerobic gasket maker (#51813), available from... you guessed it, amazon. the reason i think this is better is that it's anaerobic, meaning that it only hardens in the absence of air, which means that if you accidentally use too much (which you will, doing your first one), any extra that ends up inside the oil pump will just wash off rather than hardening, breaking off, and getting stuck in an oil passage somewhere. follow the diagram in the service manual when putting it on the pump or you'll be taking it apart to do it again. when installing the oil pump, be careful with the o-ring, if you nick it putting in place then... you'll be doing this again. and, as i may have mentioned before, no one likes doing this twice.

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2. Buy the water pump, water pump gasket, thermostat and thermostat gasket, oil pump o-ring and crank oil seal from the dealer (plenty of them online that sell at a 20% or so discount and ship to you). Also buy the seals for the cams (one on each side on your engine), just in case you need them. These rarely leak, but if you open yours up and find that they are, it's better to have them handy; they don't cost much. It is tempting to save a few bucks and pick up the water pump and thermostat elsewhere. Don't. You'll just end up redoing the job. No one likes to do this twice.

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Having done more than my share of timing belts on EJ engines, and having started where you are (not knowing if I could do it, having never done it before), here are some tips that may be helpful:

Saturdays are reserved for walk-in service but come in early in the day to ensure you bike gets done by the end of the day.

Watch the videos on youtube and then decide. I think it's easy enough to do yourself. Allow yourself a day to take your time and get it done.

12. for your first time, plan for this to take a weekend. make sure you have a place to work where you can leave the car overnight, if necessary. obviously make sure that you have containers to capture the oil and coolant you will drain. don't mix the two, or you won't find anyone who will accept it for recycling. don't drink the coolant. do drink some beers, it helps.

Here's a thread with a walkthrough for a 2.5L WRX (same basic engine - yours is a SOHC, though, so one fewer cam pulley on each side)

I can definitely stomach $250 - $300 worth of parts if it still ends up being a fraction of the cost for a mechanic to do it.

9. everything else is according to the manual. your car is SOHC, so there's one camshaft per side, which really means that it's quite a no-brainer to get the belt situated and make sure everything is lined up. it's a great "first timing belt" car. double-check by counting the teeth between the marks. be careful with the torque -- the water pump and oil pump bolts don't take much to strip, since they are going into your aluminum block, but they do have to be tight enough or you get a puddle of oil or coolant and have to do it again. no one likes to do the job twice.

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As stated already, it's an interference engine - so it you mess it up, you can cause damage. That being said, if you are mechanically inclined, and follow the service manual, it's not that hard - just take your time. I'd use a decent kit, or if you go with OEM parts, make sure that in addition to the timing belt, you replace the tensioner, water pump, and idler pulleys.

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one last thing: if you opt to have someone else do it, i would strongly suggest a competent independent mechanic, not the dealer, although i can't help locate any where you are. i would also absolutely insist that they replace the water pump and every single idler and the tensioner. most dealers will fight you on this and tell you that they have never had a water pump fail or an idler seize, etc, etc, etc. ask them if they'll warranty that yours won't fail until 210k miles when you need the job done again and watch them squirm.

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Question: Is this the type of thing a mechanically apt person with a clear tutorial could easily accomplish without any expensive specialized tools or previous experience with the process, and still expect results that are as good as paying a professional?

I have done two other timing belts (Toyota's) and this one looks easier than those from an access standpoint. Obviously you have read the service manual, but you basically line up the timing marks and properly torque the bolts. I had my crank pulley off and everything looked pretty easily accessible. Timing belts are not the most difficult job to do, but its more involved than a brake job or changing the spark plugs.

Not at all, but if they are quoting 500 then most likely only the belt is being replaced. The tensioner is recommended to be replaced as well as the idler pulleys. Many people also change the water pump. Some even reseal the oil pump.

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1. Definitely replace all the idlers, the tensioner, the water pump (and its gasket), the oil pump o-ring and crank oil seal.

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4. Looks like you are from Maryland, so things should generally be ok rust-wise, but if the little bolts that hold the plastic cover over the timing belt look rusty, buy replacements ahead of time and take your time pulling them off -- they are easy to round, and not fun to deal with if they snap; it's also relatively easy to snap the plastic around them, so be careful.

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8. to get the crank bolt off, you either need a special tool (available on amazon for $60), an extra set of hands (or feet, if you have a stickshift) or some balls. let me explain: if it's a stick, put it in the tallest gear, disconnect the battery so the car can't start (just in case), have a friend STAND on the brakes, and remove the 22mm bolt. If it's an auto, this won't work, so you can either have a friend stick a huge effing (industry term) screwdriver in the "sight hole" in the transmission case (your manual will tell you where that is) to hold the flywheel while you remove the bolt or you can wedge your wrench with the breaker bar, remove the plug wires from the distributor, and crank the engine for a brief second (long enough to break the nut loose). this last one is not for the faint of heart (or for the criminally stupid -- I've witnessed a breaker bar do a full 180 and take a chunk of fender out of a car when the genius attempting this didn't quite figure out the rotation right).

3. Buy a gates belt (but not the gates timing belt kit, which includes the idlers and tensioner) from amazon. The reason why you shouldn't buy their kit is because they changed the components from what used to be identical-to-the-dealer parts to chinese crap. As people before have mentioned, this is an interference engine, if an idler seizes and your timing belt snaps, you will be tearing the engine apart to replace the valves. The good news is that every single idler and the tensioner you need are also available from amazon for a crapton less than the dealer.

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6. remove the radiator for easier access, you will need to do this anyways to replace the thermostat (which you should also do). replace all the stupid crimp-style hose-clamps you remove with stainless steel worm-gear ones. you will thank me later if you ever have to take them off again.

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13. it really isn't that hard a job at all, and if you get stuck during it, google is your friend, as there is literally nothing you could possibly do that someone else hasn't already done and blogged about.

10. water pump takes a metal gasket, tip to get it lined up properly: use tiny bit of masking tape to hold it in place to the pump (smallest bit possible on the gasket), get the pump in place, thread the bolts in loosely, then remove the tape (make sure you get all of it) before tightening.

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I'm a mechanical engineer by profession, and I've done a fair amount of working on cars/boats/jetskis in the past. However, I've never replaced a timing belt before. I have the service manual, and it doesn't seem too

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Silly question: How easy is it to screw up? Is it just a matter of bolting, unbolting, and retorquing the right bolts, or are there minute little alignments and adjustments that will need to be made afterward to get it running right?

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