M802048

• Imperial / Metric• One piece stamped steel cage retains rollers on the cone• Inner diameter range 7.937 mm to 863.600 mm• Outer diameter range 31.991 mm to 1060.000 mm• Single cone and cup

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Bearing race insertion: Before you try to get the new races in, you need to take the old races and cut each across using a rotary tool, saw, angle grinder or the like. Stick the new races in the freezer, this will cause them to shrink (30 minutes at least in the freezer). Heat the hub again, this will cause it to expand. Get one of the frozen races from the freezer and quickly drop it into the hole. If you're lucky the combination of the expansion of the hub and contraction of the ring may let the ring just drop straight down.

• Imperial / Metric• One piece stamped steel cage retains rollers on the cone• Inner diameter range 7.937 mm to 863.600 mm• Outer diameter range 31.991 mm to 1060.000 mm• Single cone and cup

M88048cross reference

Wheel Bearing And Hub Assembly - 31206876844. Genuine BMW® Parts & Accessories. Manufacturer Warranty. From the Dealership to your Door.

M88010 bearing

I've replaced bearings without either a puller or a press, it's perfectly doable, although a bearing insertion set does make things much easier. These are cheap and you can get them off the internet. Failing that you can do without.

Typical applications include, vehicle front wheels, differential and pinion configurations, conveyor rolls, machine tool spindles and trailer wheels.

Next clean the hub up, remember it's still hot! Get all the grease, grime and dirt off or it's going to get into the new bearings. Inspect it for cracks while it's clean.

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There's other options than reusing the old races for getting the new ones in that work better, providing you can find materials of the right diameter. A length of steel pipe just smaller than the race works great, as does a big socket.

88048 bearing dimensions

m88048/m88010

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If you're me that won't happen as it's never that easy, this is where the old bearing races come in. You could use the hammer and punch on the new races directly, and I've heard of people doing this successfully without damaging them, however it's risky. Put the old race on top of the new one and hammer on that instead, the old race will spread the force out and prevent damage. The slit cut through it will keep it from getting stuck along with the new race. Work around, hammering as you go until it's seated. Note that this method can be annoying and time consuming as the old race has a habit of jumping out. Repeat for the other side, you will probably want to reheat the hub.

2021322 — Driving with worn wheel bearings can cause serious damage to your drive-axle and steering assembly. It ultimately can be a major safety hazard.

These bearings are the most basic and most widely used type of tapered roller bearings. They consist of two main separable parts, the cone (inner ring) assembly and the cup (outer ring). They are typically mounted in opposing pairs on a shaft.

M802011

M88048Pinion Bearing

First you need a hammer, punch, gloves, safety glasses, a torch and a piece of scrap wood to go between the hub and whatever surface you're hammering the hub on. After removing wheel from the hub you should be able to get the seals and bearings out with basic tools (Keep the seals for the time being). Once you have those out you need to get the inner bearing races off, which is the more challenging part. To do that you heat the hub it using a torch until the bearing grease starts to drip out, then hammer the races out using the punch. There will be grooves machined out of the hub to do this, you just hammer one side, then the other until it drops. Flip and repeat for the other race (assuming you have 2). Keep the old races.

Typical applications include, vehicle front wheels, differential and pinion configurations, conveyor rolls, machine tool spindles and trailer wheels.

Pull bleeder screw and allow fluid to leak out. Coat threads of bleeder with silicone grease. Reinstall bleeder screw. Hook up mityvac.

I would recommend taking the hub to a local garage and for a very small fee of around £10 they will press out the old bearing and fit the new one. I have done this several times and found the garages very accommodating. All you then need to do is fit the hub assy. Failing that you could knock them out but I recommend you take the easy option as you may damage the bearing trying to fefit it. They are very tight.

M88048equivalent

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These bearings are the most basic and most widely used type of tapered roller bearings. They consist of two main separable parts, the cone (inner ring) assembly and the cup (outer ring). They are typically mounted in opposing pairs on a shaft.

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Once you have the races in and the bearings greased and inserted you need to get the seals on, most of the time these are synthetic and can be tapped in with a rubber mallet, but sometimes using the old seals to protect the new ones is a good idea as well.

all these answers are right and correct the simple answer is often it can be done with a simple threaded rod and washer spacer and nut setup given mentioned, it was designed to be replaced if fuck all else won't work or you simply don't have any other means sadly some times the only answer is to replace the part. which is the manufacturer being a greedy so&so. if you have the option do it yourself is always best. they make ratcheting box end wrentchs these days, get yourself a proper set. getting proficient in doing things yourself is ever gratifying it makes you strong inside where it counts. The spacer can be made from stock and rifle drilled or heavy walled tubing again sometimes the best tool for the job is the one you make. and then you will have it forever/Threading dies for ID AND OD are always a good idea to keep on hand take good care of your affairs and you will be well kept friend. a good machinist and a mechanic is a happy man.

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