Rear wheel bearings today are usually no different than fronts in terms of a complete hub bearing or pressed-on units. In the vast majority of cases here, a complete unit is used and unbolted / bolted to the rear transaxle (2WD vehicles) or independent rear axle.

However, without the use of ball or roller bearings, the contact surface between the sheave and axle is much greater and thus results in more friction when the sheave rotates. This results in more energy being used to spin the sheave.

Spin the wheel/tire by hand and listen carefully. You should hear a soft rubbing sound which is just the brake pads gliding over the rotor. A grinding sound centered in the very middle of the wheel is a dead giveaway for a failing wheel bearing. It’s important to note that when wheel bearings first start to go, it will normally be difficult to hear and tell. Usually only a road test under the weight of the vehicle will reveal that the bearing is going out.

Give us a call today or stop by your local AutoZone if you have any questions about wheel bearing replacement, where we have all the parts, tools, and advice to get the job done right! If the job is too big for you, look through our list of Preferred Shops in your area that can help you complete the job!

Roller bearing vs ball bearingfriction

Next, if movement is present, inspect the lower ball joint (and upper if applicable) and see if the movement is coming from a worn ball joint. If ball joints are tight, then the wheel bearing is suspect.

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Plain bearing blocks have a limited number of parts making them much easier to manufacture and assemble. This usually results in a more budget friendly block.

Imagine trying to move a large heavy box along the ground just by pushing it. The friction between the ground and the box makes it really hard for you to push. Now imagine putting that same box on top of a skateboard and trying the same thing. The skateboard has wheels and the wheels would in this instant act as bearings. It would take you much less energy to push the box on top of the skateboard as there is now less surface touching the ground.

In the case of most vans and trucks today, along with older RWD cars, the rear wheel bearings are housed inside the solid axle, and are usually pressed into the axle tube, or pressed onto the drive axle itself. In either case, the cost of the bearing is usually between $25.00-50.00, whereas the labor to remove and press in a new bearing runs between 1-4 hours.

These vehicles up until very recently still used hub systems that house roller bearings or cone style. While these bearings themselves are often as cheap as 2WD vehicles, the process of removing them and disassembling the hub is often a little more time-intensive. Expect to pay for 1-1.5 hours of labor per side, which is usually $80-160.00, plus the bearings to replace. Keep in mind if the race is damaged in the hub, it will need to be pressed out, and a new race pressed in, leading to more time.

Thanks to the larger surface area the roller bearing can withstand higher working loads without compromising strength and shape when compared to the ball bearing, as the load between the three components can be more evenly shared. The result is a bearing system that can roll fairly efficiently and at higher loads than a ball bearing would be able to. However, the surface area results in a bigger energy loss to create a similar rolling speed.

Ball vs roller bearingreddit

Common signs include noise (grinding, humming), vibration, uneven tire wear, and ABS failure. Q: How often should wheel bearings be inspected?

However, this minimal contact between the sheave, balls and axle generates point loading. This is why it’s not recommended to regularly exceed the suggested MWL of a dynamic block, as it can cause deformation or damage to the three components.

Today, aside from rear-wheel drive vehicles that use a solid axle (like trucks), most vehicles use a hub bearing. These consist of a bearing and flange surface that is bolted directly to the steering knuckle or rear transaxle. The bearing then has a hub face, with the wheel studs and tire-mounting surface. Often, an axle (often one with a CV joint) also passes through this bearing via a splined surface and has a large hub nut (called a spindle nut) that secures it at the bearing. This design makes up most bearings on vehicles today. There are some vehicles that still use a pressed-in hub bearing, where you re-use the original wheel hub, but this is becoming rare.

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You can lower your wheel bearing replacement cost by changing them yourself. You should be able to do this in your own garage. However, it will require some specialized tools. Make sure to reference your vehicle’s service manual or seek out online information and determine the kind of wheel bearing your car or truck is geared up with prior to starting the repair work. Keep in mind that AutoZone rents all the specialized tools you will need to replace your wheel bearing and does so for free! Learn more about Loan-A-Tool here.

Without getting under the car, grab each wheel at the top and bottom with both hands. You bottom hand should reach under the tire to the backside. Your top hand should grab the front top portion of the tire. Now, try to rock the tire back and forth by pulling outward with the bottom hand, and inward with the top hand, then reversing the motion.

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Taperedroller bearing

With the wheel bearing replacement cost in mind, you may be wondering if you can drive with a bad wheel bearing. A bad wheel bearing needs to be changed as soon as possible. There is no lubrication on a bad wheel bearing. Consequently, as you drive with a bad wheel bearing, you run the risk of the wheel bearing completely failing and breaking apart, which can cause massive stability problems when driving, even a crash. If you’re in the middle of nowhere and you need to drive a short way to get help to prevent this scenario, you should drive at a slower speed so that your wheel remains intact for a couple more hours.

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As the name suggests, ball bearing blocks (or dynamic blocks as we call them) feature balls to separate the sheave from the central axle.

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When doing any regular vehicle maintenance or if you suspect a wheel bearing issue, they can be inspected. Do the following to check your bearings for wear without taking the wheels off.

Ball vs roller bearingmotorcycle

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Roller bearingsize chart

Advice, how-to guides, and car care information featured on AutoZone.com and AutoZone Advice & How-To’s are presented as helpful resources for general maintenance and automotive repairs from a general perspective only and should be used at your own risk. Information is accurate and true to the best of AutoZone’s knowledge, however, there may be omissions, errors or mistakes.

While you can lower your wheel bearing replacement cost by doing it yourself, be prepared to invest a bit of time into the repair. Experience is among the key elements impacting completion time and the estimates above are based on professional book times, not “I’m doing this for the first time” times. First-timers should expect the job to take around 4-6 hours.

The vast majority of vehicles today use a complete-unit hub bearing. Here, the cost of the bearing is usually the bulk of the expense, as most hub bearings run between $80.00 to $300.00. Many of these have ABS sensors built into them. These bearings are unbolted from the steering knuckle, and a new bearing bolted on. Expect to pay for 1-2 hours of labor to replace per side, usually between $80-200.00.

Be sure to consult your owner’s manual, a repair guide, an AutoZoner at a store near you, or a licensed, professional mechanic for vehicle-specific repair information. Refer to the service manual for specific diagnostic, repair and tool information for your particular vehicle. Always chock your wheels prior to lifting a vehicle. Always disconnect the negative battery cable before servicing an electrical application on the vehicle to protect its electrical circuits in the event that a wire is accidentally pierced or grounded. Use caution when working with automotive batteries. Sulfuric acid is caustic and can burn clothing and skin or cause blindness. Always wear gloves and safety glasses and other personal protection equipment, and work in a well-ventilated area. Should electrolyte get on your body or clothing, neutralize it immediately with a solution of baking soda and water. Do not wear ties or loose clothing when working on your vehicle.

A humming or rumbling noise while driving is usually the prime indication of a worn wheel bearing. This sound will get louder if you take the wheel and lightly turn one direction of the other at speed or go on a slight curve in the road at speed. Driving on a damaged wheel bearing can be dangerous, considering that the wheel bearing is not sufficiently lubed and friction is extremely high at this point. This friction generates heat, which will eventually disintegrate the bearing more, when can lead to complete failure, wheel off, or loss of control of the vehicle.  This can occur anytime you are driving.

Back in the old days, wheel bearings were composed of 2 cone bearings on each front side. When removing the brake rotors (or drums) these more old-fashioned bearings could be serviced by packing the bearings with grease. While some vehicles still retain this style of bearing, it is rare.

A bearing essentially assists in the rotation of an object and is used in many different applications to help reduce friction and wear. Bearings can be used in many different items including bikes, cars, air conditioning units, washing machines, and many other everyday objects. In all of these products, a bearing allows two parts to move separately from each other whilst still remaining in contact.

Once again, these are all just approximations. However, they are a great indication of what you can anticipate paying. Fortunately, wheel bearings last a long time, so you won’t need to change them very frequently.

Ballandroller bearingapplication

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By now, you hopefully have a basic understanding of the difference between the three styles of bearings. If you want to get even more technical, there are a couple of additional things you can consider.

Traditional cone or roller bearings in older 2WD vehicles are often serviced when removing the rotors during a brake job. These bearings can easily be replaced, are less expensive to buy, and generally cost around $6-20.00 per unit, and $80-100.00 to service, along with the cost of replacing the rotor usually, as the bearing race is pressed in. All in, labor and rotor, most vehicles will run around $150.00 to replace and go up depending on rotor cost. In many cases, it’s cheaper to replace the rotor than it is to remove and press in a new bearing race.

A ball bearing is the most efficient shaped bearing for fast rolling speeds. The contact between the sheave, bearing and axle is minimal which results in the lowest possible friction. This allows the sheave to spin much faster with less energy, when compared to plain and roller bearings.

Our plain bearing blocks feature a grey sheave, to differentiate them from the dynamic bearing range which has a black sheave. So you can quickly and easily identify which type of block you have.

Cylindricalroller bearing

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These features make roller bearing blocks a great choice for highly loaded applications that require smooth regular adjustment.

The exploded line drawing above shows all the component parts of our A9060 high roller block. As you can see, this block features both ball bearings and roller bearings. This is common in roller blocks. The roller bearings take the load of the sheave when in use and the ball bearings offer a secondary side load support. The ball bearings stop the sheave from being able to “wobble” side to side but do not take any of the actual load put on the block when in use.

The three most common types of bearings found in a sailing block/ pulley are plain bearings, ball bearings and roller bearings. But, what’s the difference between the three and why should you choose one over the other? Making the correct choice can help your rope system run more efficiently and to the desired performance.

There should be very little motion in the tire. If you have any movement at all, either a wheel bearing, or ball joint is at fault.

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A plain bearing block is simply a sheave mounted directly onto an axle, which it then rotates around. You can see all the component parts of our A2030P in the explosion line drawing below.

Shift back into park (for an automated transmission) or gear (for a manual transmission) prior to lowering the vehicle to the ground.

Ball vs roller bearing vstapered

Roller bearings are a great alternative to a ball bearing or plain bearing block as they offer “best of both” performance.

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Due to the larger surface/ contact area, roller bearings will not roll as quickly as ball bearings. However, they are much more efficient than a plain bearing system.

So, ball bearing blocks can spin extremely quickly, with very little energy. But cannot withstand the same high loads when compared to plain or roller bearings.

Wheel bearings live a tough life. Most of a vehicle's weight rides on the wheel bearings at the 4 corners of your vehicle. Once these bearings begin to deteriorate, a humming noise becomes noticeable. It's easiest to hear at speed when you turn the wheel slightly from side to side. When a rear wheel bearing goes out, the humming or grinding noise is usually constant.

Popular in German and Japanese vehicles, these units are the sealed roller bearing that you see on the back of the complete unit. In these cases, the entire steering knuckle must often be removed from the vehicle, and the bearing pressed out, and the new one pressed in. While the cost of the bearing drastically diminishes (usually these run between $25.00-50.00) the labor involved to replace the bearing goes up, usually to the tune of 2-4 hours to replace ($160-400.00).

Plain bearing blocks typically have quite a high breaking load as the sheave and the axle share the load from the rope evenly. You won’t find a maximum working load (MWL) for our plain bearing blocks, as the MWL is the load at which the bearing system can get damaged and will no longer perform as designed. As there are no ball or roller bearings to damage a plain bearing block will perform the same across the whole breaking load range until a major component gives way.

Wheel bearings live a tough life. Most of a vehicle's weight rides on the wheel bearings at the 4 corners of your vehicle. Once these bearings begin to deteriorate, a humming noise becomes noticeable. It's easiest to hear at speed when you turn the wheel slightly from side to side. When a rear wheel bearing goes out, the humming or grinding noise is usually constant. Back in the old days, wheel bearings were composed of 2 cone bearings on each front side. When removing the brake rotors (or drums) these more old-fashioned bearings could be serviced by packing the bearings with grease. While some vehicles still retain this style of bearing, it is rare. Today, aside from rear-wheel drive vehicles that use a solid axle (like trucks), most vehicles use a hub bearing. These consist of a bearing and flange surface that is bolted directly to the steering knuckle or rear transaxle. The bearing then has a hub face, with the wheel studs and tire-mounting surface. Often, an axle (often one with a CV joint) also passes through this bearing via a splined surface and has a large hub nut (called a spindle nut) that secures it at the bearing. This design makes up most bearings on vehicles today. There are some vehicles that still use a pressed-in hub bearing, where you re-use the original wheel hub, but this is becoming rare.

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