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2024-09-26 09:55:42

Feeling it through the seat a give away and also a new gearbox mount would make the angle of sag worse on a sagged centre bearing than before the gearbox mount was fitted.

Drive shafts can become damaged in several ways, including when the wheel bearings or hub in your vehicle have begun to wear down. In this case, you’ll probably notice excessive vibrations when accelerating or braking, and might hear a knocking noise.

These vibrations, do they occur mainly between 30 and 50 mph ? This wurring sounds like mine, defintely metallic, not wheel bearings, I had all my wheels balanced, still the vibration.

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Bearings generally come in the form of balls or tapers within a metal ring that rides on the shaft of the axle and fits into the hub. Due to the nature of the forces placed on wheel bearings, they are more prone to failure than many of the other components we’ll discuss here.

The drive shaft of your vehicle is responsible for moving torque from the engine into the wheels, facilitating movement. The transmission sends kinetic energy from the engine through the shaft into the differential, rotating the axle shafts (which are connected to the wheel hubs on each side of the car).

The mechanic is sure it is a rear wheel bearing. I am not convinced though as I am not sure that this would cause vibrations through my seat? Anyone had vibrations like this from worn wheel bearings?

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Understanding where your wheel bearings, hubs, and related components are—and how they function—is vital for keeping your vehicle in proper working order. Use what you’ve learned above to keep a closer eye on these important parts and replace them with high-quality aftermarket components when required.

Wheel bearings and hub assemblies play a vital role in the performance of your vehicle, but they’re easy to overlook. After all, these parts are small and hard to see at a glance—so they don’t always get much thought. Still, you need to understand what they do and buy high-quality replacement parts when the wheel bearings in your vehicle wear out if you want to keep it running properly.

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I have visited my local mechanics and he thinks it might well be a rear wheel bearing as the vibrations don't get any better when the car is put into neutral and no vibratations could be felt when I put my hand on the transmission tunnel.

I think Jeff at Zedworld charges about £280......bearing itself costs a bundle, probably £160 just for the bearing. Check his website, http://www.zedworld.co.uk

The major components of your wheel bearing and hub assembly are the bearings, hub, rotor, seal, and the drive shaft itself. Each of these parts must work in concert with the others to manage the forces that braking and cornering place on your vehicle during regular use.

I think personaly that it is something like the prop. I just don't want to do the prop then find out it was something else. I guess if it had a new gearbox mount then it might have meant that extra strain was put on the bearing whilst the old mount was making the prop sag?

The rotors on your vehicle help you brake while driving. Pressing the brakes in your vehicle causes the calipers to squeeze your brake pads against the rotors, creating friction that eventually causes the wheels to stop spinning and bring your car to a halt.

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I am hoping it is nothing to do with the prop. I do still have alot of wurring noise going on. I guess this is most probably the rear wheel bearings as my Mechanic figured.

Below, we’ve put together a diagram showing the different parts of wheel bearings and hubs, along with a description of each main component. Ready? Then let’s dive in.

My rtracking is ever so slightly out aswell. Guess this would not help matters. If I get the wheels tracked will I need to have a complete 4 wheel track seeing the Zed steers with all four?

The purpose of wheel bearings is to help the wheels of your vehicle turn with minimal friction when torque is sent to the wheels from the engine. When a wheel bearing begins to wear out, it becomes more difficult for the corresponding wheel to rotate, which can eventually cause handling problems and even permanent suspension damage.

Cant see a rear wheel bearing causing this - one of mines on its way out, and its a bit noisy - but thats about it. What about rear diff or prop shaft bearing? Although having said that my prop bearing was shagged when I got my car and it didnt make the seats vibrate....

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There is an easy test for this mate! It sounds like your mechanic is right. If you want to eliminate anything transmission related (i.e. rear mount, propshaft, etc), just put your foot on the clutch! If it's still there, it's nothing to do with the transmission. If you want to eliminate anything from the engine backwards, turn it off! You'll obviously lose power steering, etc, so make sure you're safe and ready to bump start it again.

The hub is responsible for connecting the wheel to the axle of the vehicle. It also houses the wheel bearings. This metal casing typically comes in the shape of a disc with a slightly protruding midsection containing several studs. There’s also a hole in the middle for the bearing.

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These vibrations, do they occur mainly between 30 and 50 mph ? This wurring sounds like mine, defintely metallic, not wheel bearings, I had all my wheels balanced, still the vibration.

Below, you’ll see a diagram showing the location of the wheel bearings and hub assemblies on a typical car. The hub, bearing, and rotor on each wheel is connected via a seal to the drive shaft (through the axle shaft). The construction of all wheel bearing and hub assemblies will look similar even when comparing large to small vehicles. For example, a Ford F-150 wheel bearing will be bigger, but look similar to a Ford Explorer wheel bearing.

The seals that sit between your bearings and the drive shaft of your vehicle exist to keep out substances and materials that could cause the bearings to wear out faster—dirt, water, and other debris from the road being some of the most common.

Hubs can become stressed when the bearings they house fail. Since a worn out hub can make your vehicle extremely difficult to handle, you’ll want to replace your hubs as soon as possible whenever this happens.

Because they’re absorbing so much energy on such a frequent basis, brake rotors wear out regularly and need to be replaced. However, driving on worn-out brake rotors can feel very similar to driving on a dead wheel hub. You may experience a wobbling feeling while braking—however, in the case of a dead hub or worn-out bearings, this may also be accompanied by a slight pull to the side with the damaged component. Take your vehicle to a mechanic to determine the exact cause of the problem and find out what part needs to be replaced.

I have the "typical" Z vibration in the seat at about 30 - 50 mph, especially when cold. I replaced the rear gearbox mount, which did nothing to eliminate the vibrations. I compared the new gearbox mount to the old, and frankly, the old looked as good as the new, no sagging, no deterioration of the rubber. I doubt in your case that its the gearbox mount. Several people on this forum have replaced the gearbox mount and found it did not solve the vibration, which was only cured when the prop shaft centre bearing was replaced. Mine will have to be done soon.

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However, these seals also keep the grease used to lubricate your bearings inside the hub assembly. This grease is vital for prolonging the lifespan of your hub and bearings, so these seals need to be checked often and replaced if they have deteriorated.

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You’ll normally hear a rattling sound for some time before this occurs—so you’ll get plenty of warning. Still, it’s vital to replace a worn-out wheel bearing as soon as possible to prevent performance issues and more costly mechanical problems.

I was also told that I had had a new gearbox mounting bracket. Something else I know can be a cause of vibrations. This surely eliminates a dodgy mounting bracket though?

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If the prop centre bearing is original then it will be well sagged and the rubber mount persished. Search on it here - loads of opinions. Certainly got to be a favourite and if its been gone a long time then the actual universal joints on the shaft could also be on the way out too.